The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
702 posts

Swapping the HP22 gearbox for a HP24 box on the diesel is pretty straight forward. I fitted one to mine over 10 years ago and it has been fine since.

The HP22 was only used in the 4.0 petrol and the 2.5 diesel, while the HP24 was just used in the 4.6 petrol.
There are actually two versions of the HP24 gearbox - an early one and a later type, which is known as an 065 box. The number will be found on the gearbox plate. It should say something like 030 - 065.

The 065 box is a direct swop for the HP22 . The earlier HP24 is 15mm longer. It can be adapted to fit but it saves a lot of hassle if you find a later 065 box. You need to use the diesel bellhousing, the bolt holes are the same, and also use the diesel torque converter. I had an uprated one fitted that was supplied by Ashcrofts but I think they no longer do them.

No electrical mods are needed. Continue to use the same diesel gearbox ecu.

My car used to hunt up and down the gears before I chipped it. Towing up a hill was awful. It would drop from 4th straight down into 2nd, rev like hell then change back into top. It would then repeat the cycle, ad infinitum. Chipping the engine changed all that with later gear changes.
The uprated TC helps with later gearchanges but is or was expensive. I would continue to use the OEM diesel TC if I were you.

Cooling was a problem on mine at the start but It was only when towing in hot weather, like towing a caravan in France in the summer. Solo is no problem at all. Following Dave Ashcrofts advice I fitted a thermocouple to the gearbox sump and fitted a gearbox temp gauge in the dash.
The gearbox will overheat never mind the engine.
With a chipped engine it could be 40 to 50% more power and the torque increase even more than that. It means 50% more heat and cooling has got to be spot on.
The plastic on old radiators goes brittle with time and they can burst violently. Mine did several years ago.
I fitted an Allisport radiator which has better cooling. It looks the same as the Direnza.
More sure your viscous fan works ok. I also did a mod to the electric fans at the front to turn them on manually when needed.

Another thing I would point out is that some aftermarket radiators that are advertised have a much reduced heat transfer area. They are very shallow front to back. You get what you pay for I guess. OEM rads will be fine and the alloy ones I have seen all look OK. All diesel rads are now sold with a manual gearbox cooling section. Just don't pipe it in if fitted to an auto.

You can't fit fog lights to an auto diesel because the gearbox cooler gets in the way of the nearside one. Later cars have a fan on the cooler and have even less clearance. Manual diesels could probably be fitted with fog lamps however. You would have to fit an after market auto gearbox cooler up front and remove the original cooler under the wing to fit fog lights. The wiring is there ready for all models but would need activating in the BECM.

Welcome to the site.
Ask your questions here and we will try to answer them.

I know Faultmate has a manual "instrument odometer synchonise" setting under .... BECM .. other (for version 1.29). Nanocom should be similiar.

I have swapped a few BECM's in the past and the mileage was not automatically updated on mine. I did however unlock the BECM's which allowed me to enter anything I wanted.

Did you know you can take the memory chip out of an old instrument panel that you don't want (I have the exact chip no. written down somewhere). Then put the panel back in temporarily without the chip and the mileage in the BECM will go to zero. I think it still has to be synced to do this. Finally swap the instrument panel again for another new one with the correct mileage and resyncronise it again.

When you turn left, the weight of the car is shifted towards the right, so it makes the LH wheel lighter and the RH wheel heavier.
If the rumbling noise goes quieter on a LH corner, it will be because some of the weight is taken off the LH wheel bearing.
You can't really tell unless you take the whole hub off and spin it in your hand, imho.

This is really impressive stuff. I am in awe Aragorn.
I don't remember Excel having a curve fitting function. Must have been added in the later versions.

I fitted TerraFirma shocks (+2") and had a few problems.
The top eye chassis mount "pinches in" and grips the top eye of the shock. There was a loud clunking sound until I used a torque wrench and set it to the settings in Rave.
A problem with washers and rubber bushes at the bottom. I had to swap them around I remember to get them to fit.

I changed my hitch to a 2" receiver as used in the US. It allows a range of attachments. Only downside is that it is a bit noisey.
Tow bar is still the same and type approved. Just the hitch is changed.

As a matter of interest, was anyone owed money or goods on here when they went bust ?
I think they behaved ethically unless someone says otherwise.

1Steven ... are you still around?

Britcar 2.0

Rising like a Phoenix from the ashes.

I think you are wrong. It's not a Facebook old wives tale. I got it from a p38 breaker who from personal experience ie. selling a lot of exhausts, knows that twin exhausts won't fit an earlier car, one originally with a single pipe.
p38 exhaust
see comments towards the bottom.
Maybe yours has been modified.

Sounds like a fault. I would buy a secondhand instrument panel to try out. Not expensive on Ebay.
You need a diesel one. If you need a scale in kilometers, I am pretty certain the back scale can be changed over.
I have had a couple apart in the past. There are also some design variations - early and late.
However mileage in the BECM will not match then and will revert to the highest.

You can't do it the other way around either i.e. you can fit a single in place of a twin but you can't fit a twin to a car that originally was a single,
or so I am led to believe. Apparently a brake pipe gets in the way? Not sure how exactly.
Also diesel tailpipes point down at the ground.

This is the company I meant SS Exhausts They make good stuff but too expensive to buy new.

A stainless exhaust is something I would buy secondhand.

Got to be careful with stainless fabrications. Often parts are made thinner because they don't corrode. Some I have seen are are flimsy.
Also my boxes are 304 but the pipes are 409, which has surface rusting. Welding is first class however; done on a machine I think.

Stainless exhausts do occasionally come up on Ebay. Just leave a search running.
That is how I got a replacement exhaust for my diesel. I managed to get a "Double SS" exhaust which is a decent make. It has been on for years now. I got the back boxes first then later found a centre box. The only non stainless bit is the downpipe with the particulate filter.

I would think the benefit comes from altering the ignition timing at the same time to take advantage of the better pre detonation characteristics using water injection. It would increase the mass inside the cylinder and lower temperatures. Maybe that's the principle.

As you say Harv, modern engines tune themselves optimally now.

What about AdBlue? it is a urea/ water mix injected into diesel engines to reduce emissions. Does that improve mpg beacuse of the water present?

I must be going back 20 years+ but there was a system on the market that added LPG to a diesel engine. One was fitted to a Discovery I recall.
It ran both fuels at once, presumably by enriching the air intake with a small amount of LPG. Never heard of it since. Apparently the mpg was very good.
Water injection was another method of increasing mpg. Never hear of that now.

I would have said your Linley was worth WAY more than that. Must be diifficult to value as non come up for sale.

Hi Kev / Aragorn,
yep, must get pretty thirsty in Mordor or is it Gondor.

I don't use Solidworks. I don't like paying for software. I used Openscad for the cup holder.
It is based on writing lines of code that build up mathematical shapes. I can find my way around it and I can cut and paste sections of code from other designs. It is also what is known as parametric. Each dimension is a variable or parameter and it is easy to change the value and scale up or down.
Let me know if you want it. Have you got a 3d printer?
I designed it to take a couple of small cans, I think 48mm diam. which is ok. As Marshall8hp pointed out it is still a bit of weight hanging off the dash. A fat water bottle might be too much. For open top cups it is also not so good as they are at an angle.

I have done this one that clips on the dash:

p38 drinks holder

I have another one with slots in it. It takes a disposable coffee cup holder and the slots are for the handles (not yet on Thingiverse).
Still not entirely happy with the design. It works but the cups are at a slight angle. Should be horizontal imho.
Constructive comments welcome.

I built a bench test rig for valve blocks several years ago so I was able to run the whole system on the bench. I did several valve blocks along with rebuilt compressors at the time. There has been no need to run it since as I have enough spare blocks.
I can remember some of the compressors being particularly noisy and by a combination of fitting "penny" washers and turning the bushes upside down I eventually got it quiet. I can remember hammering the washers into a dish shape. It was easier to experiment with it on the bench.