For anyone trying to 'persuade Timson' they need to order the Silca HU109 blank which they (and others) have told me is on a '6-month' back order ! ( CRNW do have these thougn, as mentioned)
Another question for you Richard - about the passive im/mobilser coil issue; It was my understanding that in the fob there is a RFID device (which is 'energised' by said coil) to mobilise/start the engine: Above you indicate this is not necessary - as long as you put the key in the ignition and turn it quickly enough (after opening the door with it); If so, what is the time interval for this ?
You are being 'a bit pedantic' there Richard.... I was again simply stating there are limitations with a VALET key, hence my "necessarily !" And I know what you mean but LR call it an immobiliser coil of course !
Similarly, yes, as for the 'flip-key fob' I meant as per the original (Huf) arrangement not a rigid one obviously....
When I asked about this earlier(July) no-one actually suggested CRNW either !
Thanks for the additional data Richard, with my comment about the (passive) immobiliser coil I was just drawing attention (for those without a nano etc) that a basic VALET key (no fob etc) will not -necessarily !- on its own start our cars !
That said does anyone know of a supplier that can cut/copy the fob-type keys (and at a reasonable price) ?
Another Update...
The actual blank needed is a HU109
Timsons, after a very long wait, could not actually supply these !
Note that the HU58 may not be suitable...
(the 'waist' is in the wrong place)
Note also that e-bay Chinese blanks are unsuitable as the metal is too hard so most key cutters will reject them
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So, a recommended e-bay supplier is crnw-p38 ; £25 for a valet key - and uses a genuine SILCA HU109 blank
Again this is a valet key so will only get you into the car (and start older ones without the immobiliser coil on the ign. switch etc)
e-bay: "Range Rover P38 Plain Key Cut By Picture Valet Key Spare key BMW - Item number:153780255168"
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https://www.trade-keys.co.uk/images/product-details/Silca_HU109FP.pdf
j_rov: Then perhaps it is GG after all ? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ilmOHfnIpFI
Seriously I swear with these things that once we hear them we become convinced and focus on them ?
And after changing things we are quite convinced are causing the problem it makes them louder too (?!)
Once with such a ticking (although not a p38) using (slightly) thicker oil 'solved' the problem... temporarily:
Accordingly I then earned to live with it and nothing unpleasant happened (yet) !
Quick Update: My local Timpsons have ordered some HU58 blanks from their supplier to cut...
They will not cut my own p-shaped blanks (ie. as used in the fob) due to 'liability issues with their machines'
-they will/can only cut what they supply themselves.
To Be Continued !
Well I would have gone with lifters until I read you replaced them...
Liners slipping can be more of a knock than a tap ... but that's not definitive.,,,
Lots of examples on YT for comparison, eg: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UOblANah7Vo
( Pretty sure it's not Greta Garbo though )
Thanks Richard, Had a chat on the phone with my local Timpsons - who tried to tell me the ('proper') blanks are very hard metal and so 'will need a laser cutter' !! Told him when my blanks arrive I will pop in and he can judge for himself.......
Incidentally I initiated a 'return' on my naff e-bay keys - and they said they 'will send someone round for them' - Odd !
One to avoid then: 'auto-locksmith'....
Can anyone recommend a good (ie. tried and tested) service who can do this ?
Backstory; Ordered a couple of keys from an 'auto locksmith' on e-bay with plastic fobs (@ £25/pair) but they did not work....
Visual inspection showed considerable differences between what they sent and the original (high res) photo they used to make them.
When I complained and requested (corrected) replacements this was their reply: Trash them then and send us a photo !!
THEIR ACTUAL REPLY: **That part at the end is not a cut. Our computerised key machine cuts the most economical route.
If the key do not work then please break or bend the key blades and put a hammer to the cases. Send a picture once done and a refund will be given **
Customer Disservice is alive and well it seems !
PS: Easy enough to get HU58 blanks but any recommendations on where to get them cut ?
Bolt:
Well these Pots. are simply 'voltage dividers' anyway and so - at least in theory ! - a 'plug compatible' Hall Effect/Magnetic arrangement could be devised easily enough - for instance with an additional local (waterproofed !) op. amp module (?).
But the problem remains making the outputs compatible/comparable enough to those of the Pots...... and that might well mean 'hacking' the ECU to suit them - not to mention having to replace all four sensors !
Besides used Pots. are $20 and new (cheap) ones $50 of course.
Don't think anyone has tried it Chasman: Doubt you could assume the Hall Effect outputs would be near enough a match for the Pot. outputs for an (easy/ish) straight swap of course....
IIRC years ago someone actually built a programmable EAS ECU 'from scratch' -for the fun/hell of it - (although I also recall it was not very 'elegant') - so it is probably possible to add other kinds of height sensors at that level of design too... but just interfacing Hall Effect units to the existing EAS ECU could well be 'challenging' ?! ...
The need is not really there of course: The EAS ECUs are very reliable and the Pots. basic so why try to 'improve' them ?
Besides, as you know JLR do like 'to keep their little secrets' too so a circuit diagram of the ECU remains 'magic' !?
EDIT: Finally found just what I was talking about above - EAS redesign 'for the hell/fun of it.
I expect a similar (complex) hack would be needed for any different types of Height Sensor too:
RE: Hole in stat and jiggle valve...
Small (and possibly very obvious to some) point but I have encountered quite a few replacement thermostats now where folks have fitted a stat. (or drilled it) ... but with the hole at the bottom so the air (lock) can't pass through it easily .... !!
Just check out the holes on the chassis for size ? Guessing no steps were previously fitted ... but also guessing that the captive nuts in the chassis/carrier are seriously rusted up so that even those threads/holes could (badly) need tapping out (even if they can/could be saved) ?
Good point (and warning to Chasman) nigelbb !
Chasman: Beware of adverts claiming to have the 'upgraded' Receiver (etc)... as it might just be the 2nd generation one you already have;
Genuine 3rd Generation part number is YWY500170 and a quick search shows these are £330 +
eg. https://www.lrseries.com/YWY500170-RADIO-REMOTE-RECEIVER-ASSY-NEW-GENUINE
There are lots of ads (ebay etc) saying "Genuine Green Spot" and/or 'upgrade' etc....
but it could just end up be the most expensive small green paper sticker you ever bought.....
This might help too: https://www.mez.co.uk/page12.html
Interesting info Richard, similarly a decade or so I also traced their (original German manufacturers) EMC (Susceptibility) Certification right back to a company in Ireland: They refused to give me a copy and constantly just referred me back to the LR " who gives a ** " Department too !
Thanks for editing Chasman's post; I have now edited mine
Well at least Mr. Griffith would be impressed you remembered the Inverse-Squared Law: Pity he was not able to explain that to LR 30 years ago as their RF Engineers were so bad.....
If it helps the first time I found out about the dubious P38 alarm was on a Petrol Station forecourt - for 3 Hours.(!!)... and it was only resolved when I (finally) realised the car was directly in line with a short dipole antenna on their (RF based) credit card-verification system. Pushed it 10 feet away and all was fine.... Most RF sources are better hidden though...
Your pic is of a 'second generation' RF receiver... they put the whole thing in a can, presumably to (try to) screen it against 'spurious RF ingress' & etc.. they failed, again.
Ah yes, I remember that now, it is really quite crude, and thus it was obviously (probably !) not the chip itself but the (soldered) connections to the associated resistor/cap on the tiny PCB that were "iffy" ?? If so thus just resolved with some flux - not some magic.... ?
That said mine does not have permanent power on one side anyway now - as I also did this anyway !
http://p38.stockholmviews.com/eas/eas-timer-shutoff.jpg
PS: Can't find my photos of the suspect joints inside the Timer Relay (yet) but it was 10-12 years ago....
Richard, yes, and that's what I thought too... and that the Timer Relay was only supposed to operate for 20 seconds every 6 hours... under BeCM control...
Ok, (Long story short) I had a strange battery-flattening problem myself and (after I had eliminated the more obvious culprits by observing the BeCM/Led combo) I suspected that the EAS 'self-levelling' routine was happening more frequently than it should, (probably complicated by a slight bag leak ?) so I started investigating further, first via the EAS ECU (connector) and then the Timer Relay and the problem (apparently) disappeared...
Whilst I had the Timer Relay out I opened it up and used a soldering iron on some dry-ish looking joints on the little PCB etc inside...... but I don't know if this was the problem !! ie maybe it was operating for much more than 20 seconds - as the EAS dance frequently happened as It would (too) often be on the bump stops each morning as result of 'something odd' happening..
So, another of those frustrating situations where we "think we have somehow sorted it - but maybe haven't", but of course we all know that the EAS runs on Magic anyway...
That said the problem did not re-occur however...
Chasman: : As an 'experiment' try a standard 4-pin Relay instead of the Timer one; the Self-Levelling won't work then (nor EAS Diagnostics either) but it does stop 'cycling' it really might be a Timer Relay issue like mine was ...(?)
Guessing you already know about the alarm/RF problem plus the BeCM staying awake for over 2 minutes etc ? If not search for BeCM SID on here...
As for the 0.8-.9A drain it could be a few things (!!) but I would start with the EAS... so try pulling out its Timer Relay under the LH seat ?!
Probably the easiest way to 'bypass the drivers door switch' is just to use a screwdriver to simulate the striker ?
Needs a calm environment (eg. garage) of course due to motion detector (alarm)
