Richard RE: " If you can undo it half a turn, its undone so you don't have a problem "
Believe me, if it the threads are badly corroded the problem still exists ! If so you could well damage the nut by further removing it of course.
even with a 'proper' (flared) spanner.. unless you are going to discard/replace it obviously then it really does not matter either way.
I managed to use the method I described above - half a turn and let the brake fluid leak a little to lube the threads - on a rear caliper to good effect.
(As you will know these juctions -pipe to flexi pipe - are at a 45 degree angle so normal penetrating oil is less effective.) The Nut/Ferrule then turned and came off much easier so that I was able to re-use it.
Richard: Not sure about the Blue Spanners but the language is sometimes ripe as in: https://youtu.be/T8YFxuKrJBI
Mad-as: Not too sure about the vinegar though, my favourite freeing liquid is is Acetone/ATF, but not on my chips, obviously !....
I think the key action may be at the first sign of (serious) resistance with the brake nuts is to use vice grips (notably the Irwin types
with a curved part on the jaws) before 'rounding it off' with a spanner ? Of course it usually does not happen in that order though....
As for threatening the car, a handy john-cleese-type shrub might suffice before the pyrotechnics arise... but if they actually do arise
an accelerant like this https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/nulon-nulon-start-ya-bastard-150g/13169.html might help free it up first ??
On a more serious note even just turning the fitting slightly with a vice grip - maybe half a turn - causes the fitting to leak and brake fluid is a
penetrating oil. Again the key issue then is the patience to leave it a while to leak like that and thus actually penetrate the treads !
Clive603; You may well be right about the finer thread pitch being used as the fitting is a tube :The nearest I have previously heard
as to the likely reason that it is finer than the 'standard' 1.5mm thread is that 'it is more likely to seize so you have to replace it all !!
I like it Richard - Mohammed/ Mountain stuff ! If I get that far (and that irritated) I would just replace it all... pipe/flex. pipe /caliper/pads and probably take the pipe bracket off, clean it up and paint it too etc ....
whilst muttering to the car about 'not being beaten by a mere nut' ?!?
Something else I do when talking to car components that are just 'not co-operating' is to say "Ok, so we are doing that now are we ?!" That works a treat (Sounds crazy yes.... but I know I am not the only one who does that..) !
Yes, that finer pitch thread on the nuts/ferrules - ie. Imm rather than the 'standard' 1.5mm - has puzzled me for years too...
and so far no-one I have spken to (in the business) can explain it either.....
It's up there with the other key question as to why they use material for those nuts that is quite soft - so it is really too easy
to 'round them off' - even if/when using proper 'flared' brake spanners !
That does remind me of a useful tip though that works -when they are definitely 'rusted' on- which is to use an impact tool (gently !) with a blunt end to shock them - along with penetrating oil of course - to assist disassemby; Well it often works !
Bolt: Sounds like bags of fun...!
Ok, If the hissing you hear is 'from the exhaust silencer' (the tank) then yes that does point at the diaphragm (again) of course. And what happens (overnight ?) if you pull out the EAS relay (under seat) and inhibit the sysyem/compressor ?
Double Flares ? I had some problems with the second (hand-held flaring tool) type with steel pipe but some grease on the tool threads - on the Op1/2 parts - helped considerably ! As usual lots of inferior offerings on e-bay with these tools unfortunately..
For steel pipes (off the car) I would recommend finding the local 'Pirtek' (if you have one nearby); Hydraulic specialists.
Alternatively there are 3/16" compression fittings- particularly if like me you prefer to use hybrid steel-kunifer arrangements - ie. steel for the straight/er (and more exposed) pipe runs and kunifer for the bendier parts.
You are definitely right about the mark-ups on parts Richard, and that is definitely close to fraud: Seen a few cases now where the garages charge for genuine (insert marque name here..) components - but then if you see the boxes before fitting they are not 'genuine' at all they are mere 'generics'... It is also outrageous for them to charge folks high-street retail prices for consumables - eg. Halfords prices-per-litre for oil changes. Not exactly a mere 'mark up' either if it means 200-300% ?!
( Bit of an 'aside' here but I recall (some decades ago....) someone looking at how much it would cost to build a complete car just using 'spare' parts, and not including labour for doing that it was seven times more that the cost of a new car.
That now seems reasonable... but I wonder what the 'cost factor' would be now ? Twenty or thirty times perhaps.... )
One of the main problems is that car-owners these days may not have enough technical know-how to challenge any quotes that they are given, most definitely if they just failed their MOT and the car is deemed 'dangerous' of course....
'Captive Audience' prices then apply too ! Some of my neighbours have paid crazy car bills due to their lack of knowledge... Better stop there before I start on what those with EVs can expect to pay in the future as they become the exclusive preserve of the Main Dealers only. ( "I'll just plug in some diagnostics guv'nor - at £500/pop" ) Hmmmmm...
It's good to know there are still some 'old school' craftsmen 'out in the sticks' though: Might ask your mate for a quote next time indeed ! Sadly London has just become an even bigger rip-off than ever over the last decade or so for sure.
Think you misunderstood my 'CV boots quote' comments above Richard, in that the garage in question just went for the 'highest-cost-possible' option - regardless of the actual physical efforts/time involved (or really needed). Yes, of course a 'stretchy-boot/ cone' could have worked (particularly as it was an outer cone) but the garage simply wanted to 'max it out' obviously, and capitalise on the MOT failure: This was not helped much by the customer saying 'but I need my car for work' either, but again, that's just 'the big smoke' for you.... and there are lots more (exploitative) stories like that too of course !
One of my ('Split' / CVS18) Bailcast boots has lasted 3 years (so far).....
EDIT: They seem to agree with you though - see https://www.bailcast.com/
Their website (currently) has a banner stating: "Do Not Use - Due to technical problems the information returned is incorrect".... OOoops !
And (somewhere) I also have a grinding stick and paste - back from the old 'decoke' days.
As for the variation in garage (hourly) charges across the UK this covers it well:
https://cardealermagazine.co.uk/publish/revealed-the-cheapest-and-most-expensive-garage-labour-rates-across-uk/282688
(I do hope the chap in the photo is removing that tyre not fitting it...)
The costs for work on classics vary even more of course: Generally 'specialists' want to offer £££ full restorations, 'Car SOS' style (?)
Others it seems will simply 'quote high' because they don't want the work either - as it is just not as lucrative for them as a modern car ....
Yes Richard 'the big smoke' is far too expensive ! : Had a chat with a couple more garages and the biggest problems here (unsurprisingly) are high rental costs, business rates and also mechanics pay.... and thus Per Hour rates are much higher than the £60 (+Vat) both you and Jim mentioned.....
Whilst being in such garages I 'witnessed' multiple quotes being issued and, as ever, that was 'an education it itself' too...
For instance did you know that 'most CV boots can't be bought separately, you have to buy a complete new drive shaft' ?!
" Probably will cost £300- £400 plus parts plus VAT - but it might be more if the box needs to come out Sir"
Yes, that's right - I watched a customer (faced with an MOT failure) being royally shafted..... !
A Bailcast split CV joint is what - £15, including adhesive ?? Oh well
A quick question on how much members are being charged 'per hour' if/when they require garage services (and from independents)....
Whilst I realise many/most of us are (serious) do-it-yourselfers when it comes to our 'classic' vehicle maintainence I wonder what you have been quoted in garages....
I ask because -of late- whenever I ask one (typically about a 'ramp job' for something fairly basic that may take 20-30 minutes) I am now routinely quoted £150-£200... and even when I supply the parts.
Yes. I also know that my question is one of those of the 'how-long-is-a-piece-of-string' type but I would be interested in any/all observations on this issue !
Fantastic news ! Well done on all fronts !!
Harv: Ah, no, the viscous fan was not engaging properly and so not cooling the engine properly either (but the fan still apparently rotating of course);
This was worse if the car was stationary ie. so there no good air flow over the engine. The 'excess' heat affected the starter as others stated above.
Engine started fine if left to cool for 20 minutes or so.
Richard: Yes, thanks, I (eventually) realised about the (compatibility) workaround and used it too; It's just that I did not expect a win10 'Update' to stop RAVE working !
(Indeed that is when I first realised what their so-called 'Updates' did, and that it is virtually impossible to stop them - and I was also first 'convinced' to move to Linux on a M/S 'help' site where someone had lost numerous apps. like that and stated "F*** you M/S I am off to Linux !" They had a point.....)
Romanrob: i already (originally) did buy one, before 'digital' versions were available: It's about 5 times heavier than my laptop though and cost almost as much back then too...
Had a similar problem - much harder to start when (very) hot - but eventually realised it was a duff viscous fan causing it !!
Thanks Richard, that's good advice - I will indeed avoid the 'full fat' RAVE and stick with the .pdfs: Loads of (free) Linux readers too !
(I also recall when RAVE suddenly did not work on WIN10 - as M/S, with one (forced) update, just made it Adobe 4 'incompatible' for
some reason (control): Took hours to realise it too ...as I thought it was something I had done...)
Anyone actually tried this yet ? (Happy to continue to use RAVE with Windows 7 but I am sure some on here may have already done this) ?
PS: Just googling it led me to " RAVE: Reproducible Analysis and Visualization of intracranial Electroencephalography ".. Hmmmm....
PPS: BTW I just reached a seminal point with Windows 10 when I had enough of all their forced 'Updates'
and unrequested changes, (including to various other non-M/S Apps that they did not 'lke' either...)
Yes obviously the BT one would have limited range under the bonnet (so I did not bother and used the cigg. lighter outlet instead
with box on top of dash). Works up to 20 feet like that, depends on local RF noise of course. I use the 433Mhz unit with (old) receiver
turned off via RF relay, very handy indeed (at least for me). Pretty sure many on here still don't have a Gen3 Rcvr. or Marty's box either.
As stated it does not have to be on a P38; Was very handy over winter on other vehicles too, notably with intermittent faults etc
and/or or less-than-perfect batteries (and has saved a problem for me like that at least once and for neighbours twice - so far )....
REMOTE BATTERY MONITORS
For anyone unaware and who has the need for that particular faciility..... and not just for P38s:-
Two main types:
Bluetooth/ Phone app.
eg. https://www.amazon.co.uk/ARCELI-Bluetooth-Wireless-Diagnostic-Analyzer-Black/dp/B09YTWJ6BL
eg: https://www.quicklynks.com/pro_show.php?id=159
YT: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BcNR2Gs6oQI
'Wireless'/ Standalone
(NOTE: 433mhz..!!... so might be tricky if it keeps waking up your BeCM...
particulary if you don't have a 3rd-generation Rcvr. or Marty's box...)
https://www.amazon.co.uk/ANCEL-Wireless-Frequency-Automotive-Charging/dp/B0BZCK7L1H
Typically draw a few mA
Amazon ads. above but multiple (much cheaper) variants on e-bay of course.....
Wish I had one of these years ago, it would have saved me about 25 times what these cost !?
Aragorn: Suffice it to say that I only provided part of the long (and frankly disrespectful) conversation I had with the broker's agent, and, as you asked.... I would have preferred not to have had to listen to her excuses but it seems they would not allow me to speak with their algorithm directly....!
'Thank you' for your other patronising remarks too ... eg. I was very shocked to hear that Insurance Cos. are 'not a Charity' - but thank you also for apparently being an apologist for their clear exploitation/s now....
Moving on... Note that I fully understand how Profits & Loss works in Business and also all about risk (relative or not) etc but the most important part of this is, for instance, that if LR now have a reputation for their 'keyless' cars being stolen that does not constitute a 'reason' to load up P38 Premiums disproportionally. Similarly I know just what models of cars are being stolen locally too, and they are not old P38s either, but now I am just repeating what I already explained above !
Yes, I know what NCD Protection is and how it works - I was simply stating that it only partly Protects it now, and was, as I said, 'for those unaware' !
Such Ts & Cs change ... and attention may not be drawn to this for us by the Insurance companies, hence my warning !
The 'excuses' provided by the Insurance industry for raising premiums so much remain disproportionate if not actually appalling
https://www.independent.co.uk/money/why-has-car-insurance-risen-so-much-b2391334.html
UPDATE: Although I (eventually) received an apology from Adrian Flux for their (unpleasant) 'Customer Service' agent
I found Footman James to be much more 'old school'- and cheaper too: They also have an interesting 'FLEX' product so
that you can add a Modern car to your Classic Car policy (if you are so inclined) !
Thanks for your input Richard: Everyone else on here must be happy with their new premiums ?!
Talked with Adrian Flux today (who now seem to have a Customer DIService department): Seems their Under-writer is now Aegas
who seem 'less sympathetic' towards Classic Cars than before - although this was (once) their core business; Their (rude) 'Agent' did
indeed state this was due to Range Rovers having a bad theft record now - and discussions about their newer (dire) keyless entry
and ignition systems were basically ignored by her: Next was the 'Post Code' discussion, and again via the local rozzers I know that it
is also the newer keyless Hyundai / Kia etc that mainly are being stolen.... not the few P38s; Surprise Surprise !
WE all know that if 'more seriously' damaged older cars are just written off of course as 'beyond economic repair'.....
Long and the short of it is there is just a basic list of excuses - presented as reasons - to further rip us off...and so not about 'relative risk' at all ?!
EDIT: The other thing of note -for those unaware- is that No Claims Discount protection no longer actually protects your No Claims Discount....
In that if you have an incident/accident even though it is no fault of yours you will still lose some of your No Claims Discount......
So perhaps 'protection' just means something else now in small-print 'insurance-world' ?