The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse.
314 posts
Sep 02 2016
14 June 2018 - 15:28

It is probably less about the mating issues and more about the dissimilar metal corrosion OldShep... part of the problem is that when you have the tyres/garage folks change wheels they will not normally clean off the two surfaces with a wire brush. Using grease is OK but only in moderation......

and I will not allow folks to do up my wheel nuts with an air wrench either (which tends to distort the nut cover so you can't get a normal wrench on either). Last time I asked this they tightened it up 'manually' so much that when it was time for that wheel to come off the next garage needed a 2m breaker bar to crack them (I am not kidding...).

Anyway I now carry a full range of stuff in my P38: 3/4" breaker bar - 24" long - and 27mm sockets etc.... and I lightly lube the nuts with WD40...

Forgot to add something: If you remove brake dust build-up off your alloys using the 'acid' type cleaners it makes the dissimilar metal corrosion on some makes even worse !...

Not sure I have seen many trucks with Alloy Wheels in the UK in fact but will assume it is also a strength issue....(?)....

21 June 2018 - 06:50

OB will be missed indeed: His posts were always informative, comprehensive, humorous and warm.......
If possible please send our condolences -and gratitude - to his family.

25 June 2018 - 09:08

If it goes 'bang' it might ruin the seat of your pants..... but it won't if you turn off the ignition first of course...

'Jamming resistors in' is nor really recommended, having a working Air Bag is !

25 June 2018 - 16:49

Fair comment Clive603: There are connectors on the later ones (post '99) to cover seat air bags/belt pretensioner which may well be incompatible.


26 June 2018 - 06:32

Thanks for the 'heads up' and your detailed breakdown DH !

Have to say though the cost (price ?) of Refrigerant increasing almost 4-fold is "a little suspicous"... although it seems part of the problem here is due to the changing the EU Rules on HFCs for A/C (plus tariffs on Chinese R134a)


No doubt many re-chargers will (try to) blame "Brexit/Trump/etc" in the interests of exploitation ....sorry I meant profits...
(Not going to get over-political but any excuse will do these days; It's not supply vs. demand at all, it's market manipulation !)

26 June 2018 - 05:25

In fact I would prefer one of these: https://www.bonhams.com/auctions/24876/lot/379/

Only £250K ! Bargain ! Includes dents from filming ! Barmy !!

26 June 2018 - 05:27

Yes, that's what I meant - is the connector identified actually the airbag one.(?)

Airbag connectors have a special mechanism to short the pins together when removed
to prevent accidental/dangerous operation - such as someone with a multi-meter....

08 July 2018 - 13:09

Personally I would tend to avoid using a pressure washer under bonnets as seals to Control Units and waterproof connectors may be OK with rain etc but not with water under pressure.... If air got the dust there then a vac will move it too - particularly on 'blow' ! An 'artificial' feather duster (of the type that looks like a Candy Floss on a stick) works quite well too...

Agree on the gimmicky Dyson 'turbo' issue - the transparent dust box is what sells it most (I am told...);And I know AI is 'big' now but I will be avoiding the "BotVac" mentioned above and stay with toilet paper...

11 July 2018 - 09:53

Yes, the GEMS is a little unforgiving - if it gets the "wrong" input/s it won't necessarily re-adjust to the correct ones - although it is supposed to do via the appropriate Drive Cycle process (but which can take quite a while/fuel !). In fact the ECU also gets RPM-type data from other sensors too of course, MAF etc, so it should respond/correct more rapidly....

If unaware I found this insight useful (even though it's Morgan) too: http://www.gomog.com/allmorgan/GEMS/GEMSbyPoole.pdf

Agree that Storey is a star, living proof that inspiration/perspiration can defeat LR's 'planned obsolescence' plan !

10 July 2018 - 15:58

I would expect that GEMS 4.0 TPS is/was also used on several different models, eg Rover400, MGF etc....(?)
There may be a difference with the spindle design/shape though, but, after all, it's just a simple potentiometer !

Lots of electrical parts for different car models are interchangeable, it's just that if you put in in an OEM RR box
it magically doubles in price.....

Should we ask those 'classic' chaps how much they would charge us for a BECM (for a larf ?)

11 July 2018 - 07:57

Indeed, such 'bodging' often also becomes necessary as cars age and become classics...... involving a Dremel and some Epoxy usually too....

Off on a tangent but what is best about P38s is that they are fairly basic (!!) and "bodgeable" (particularly with RRPUB member assistance) and
that's why they are classics now ...

PS: Forgot to remind/mention that Pots. are anti- OR clockwise of course

11 July 2018 - 13:54

That's kind super4 but 'Gilbert' deserves that accolade not I - and of course I didn't even notice you had already posted up the Poole link !

The nearest I got to 'brilliant' with a P38 was to devise a method to turn off the SRS light on my early rig (in part encouraged by Storey's work with the EAS): I used software intended for - wait for it - Alpha Romeo cars of a similar vintage; Yes, I could turn the light off ... but only with the PC still connected; FAIL !!

If manufacturers could be 'persuaded' (eg, forced by law) to release electrical details of cars after (say) 20 years ther would be even more classics around: Plus we may actually Save The Planet like that rather than panicking about plastic straws up turtles' noses and other nonsense... better stop there....

12 July 2018 - 05:21

Guessing you know about this forum already Marty: http://mot-testers.proboards.com/

Sounds like they are getting confused, "tested and failed on both fuels" ?? Did they show/print these results out ?
I would argue a little more with them: Seems like lots of folks are being rather over-pedantic about the "new" rules....

It is odd that both your Hegos have failed though. As above an Italian tune-up works wonders, as does making sure
your Cats are good and hot before the Emissions test...

14 July 2018 - 11:06

You obviously have a good eye Redraptor: I tend to ignore all my bodywork imperfections.... Having indulged in some 2K spraying myself recently - using the hot weather outside as my 'booth' (!) I will be watching your progress closely. My own work looks great (as long as you don't get within 6 feet !)

18 July 2018 - 07:05

Good result Marty; Hopefully he will 'get it' with other cars now (rather that just send them off for new cats etc !)

'Had to check underneath' though 'to see it was connected' ?!

Some MOT testers do 'get it' without such edification.....

26 July 2018 - 07:02

Looks promising Redraptor; Would be tempted to stay with Matt grey (and tell everyone it's a 'wrap') !

  • In my case (also a dark colour) once I clear-coated I found all the additional imperfections, found a miniature air-powered DA quite handy then too...

Have you decided on Base+Clear or Gloss yet ?

19 August 2018 - 06:50

In fact if if the steel pin in the bottom of (OEM alloy) rear bags is seized in it can easily take 'a while' to get them out; Yes, take your time, it often takes hours the first time you do any job on cars.... all part of 'the learning' process (for next time ).of course.

Take the liners out: With those expanding clips that hold them in place I drill a small hole (Imm) in the centre of the plastic peg that pushes into it to expand it out....then I use a thin woodscrew screw to quickly extract those pegs, then the clips (the next time I remove them)..... then it takes maybe 10 minutes to remove a liner.

PS: As you can easily damage them get some spare clips anyway: I mean this type: e-bay 152012631480

19 August 2018 - 06:33

JMCL: It is usually best to stick with the original colour anyway; Such 'blends' are a real pain to match up when the almost-inevitable 'car-park rash' happens..... and then you would have to return to the original paint-shop too of course (and which may be his plan of course....).

I fully agree with the 'preparation is everything' philosophy too, particularly as darker colours really show all the blemishes/imperfections/etc.

20 August 2018 - 07:31

At risk of 'flak' have you told your insurance company you modified the car like this ?

Being a bit reactionary perhaps but I fully agree with #2 on this: LR did not make a 'perfect' car by any stretch of the imagination but they did optomise it for a wide range of uses. Perhaps I should mention here that I have had this kind of "ECU re-mapping" debate with other makes and (eventually) concluded that many of the 'improvements' are more or less illusionary; As you imply 'you can't get something for nothing. !

20 August 2018 - 08:07

Sorry, rhyl146, did not mean to offend - I renewed my insurance just last week and they asked 'is it modified in any way ?'. Don't know the implications if I have a bender and they found something 'non-standard'. Again as in #2 it's all your choice (Legality/Emissions/Insurance/etc permitting) !

Overall I think I have been over-sensitised to the topic, in part due to all the 'snake oil' stuff that folks sell; You know the kind of thing, magnets in the fuel line/tank, devices to produce a 'better' intake vortex, extra ECT resistors to 'fool' the ECU into thinking it is cooler than it is etc - and lots of other ways of wasting money....

Then there are the 'second tier' of devices, inlet filters, different exhaust systems and so on. Not sure of the 'value for money' on many of these either but they do at least make the car sound 'faster' / 'better' (and I would be really interested to see how the Emissions levels changed before/after too...

The Tornado chip approach is at least the most effective way to 'improve performance' but at what cost ?

If we were talking about a new car (not our 100K+ miles examples) I could probably understand it better.......
Perhaps I'm just a Scotty out of Star Trek kind of person; "Ye Cannae Change The Laws Of Physics (Jim)" !