I looked at PV myself for a while until I realised I don't live in S. Europe.... but went with a secondary battery in the end, too - which I just remove and (fully) charge up occasionally; It's 'The Sun in A Box' (so to speak..) and is not so affected by clouds, winter etc... and is simply mounted in the passenger footwell (No, not very convenient but better than finding the volts have dropped too far and my rig is 'upset'..)
Yes, I agree - I think you just need a few more panels....
(although the ones you have are rated @ full sunlight)
Here is some handy data on the topic though:-
https://www.batterystuff.com/kb/articles/solar-articles/solar-info.html
Guessing you meant "pre-1996" Marty but I know what you mean; Mine is '95 and yes there is no coil fitted (and IMHO there is a lot to be said for that !).
- Not sure just what components are blown on your coil PCB, it probably is not very complicated - as it will just instruct the fob to acknowledge a basic low power/frequency encoded pulse, but in LR-World this would still likely involve an ASIC (?) so not easy/possible to repair/replace either... Any useful markings on it ?
Forgot to add this, too:-
On 1997 and later models (all markets?), "friendly synchronization" is provided whenever the key/remote is inserted into the ignition. The passive immobilization coil around the ignition barrel activates a pickup coil in the remote, causing the remote to transmit an unlock signal to remobilize the vehicle.
As '95, '96 and '97+ models deploy this mechanism differently it could explain why the Driver's Manual/ETM/Workshop manual differ as described in that link.... Under "Resych.... Mystery"
As Marty states it looks like the coil around the ignition just sends a signal to instruct the fob to talk back to the BECM (and if this is not done via the coil then it must be via the RF 'parcelshelf' receiver..?). The PCB connected to the coil must be responsible for oscillating the field to the coil so that it can inductively communicate to the fob then.....(?) If that is correct then this can only occur if the fob has batteries installed, too !
..............................................................................................................................................................................................................
Note: This is for the TD5/Defender but it is probably similar to the P38 design:
Passive Immobilisation
Passive immobilisation occurs when the key is removed from the ignition switch and the drivers door is opened,
after a period of 30 seconds the engine will become immobilised. If the ignition is turned off or the key is removed
from the ignition switch and drivers door is not opened, the engine will become immobilised after 5 minutes.
The passive immobilisation system operates in conjunction with the transponder coil located around the ignition
switch barrel. The transponder coil emits an electro magnetic waveform signal which excites the remote handset
into transmitting a remobilisation signal. When remobilisation is requested, the anti-theft alarm ECU transmits an
appropriate code to the ECM on Td5 models or the engine immobilisation ECU on 300Tdi models.
Active immobilisation
Active immobilisation is only invoked when the vehicle is locked using the remote handset. Active immobilisation
performs the same engine disable functionality as the passive immobilisation previously described, but includes
full CDL and activation of perimetric and volumetric alarm modes.
** In other news, I somehow managed to get 28mpg (and climbing) showing on the screen.....>>
?? Where did you buy the sail/kite/rocket from ??
( Mine's a 4.0 and I get no-where near that, in fact about half of it....)
Wondering now if I put worn bushes on it will help my MPG !!
Ok, Just dropped Colin at BBS a note with the link...
Don't want to start a riot (honest) Gordon - and it's nice to see the Nano getting all these accolades.... but how about seeing if BlackBox is prepared to make a member deduction for us? (Think it was ~20% on the 'other' site - before Toad 'took liberties' with Colin I mean)
If you have had the problems associated with the 'old' RF Alarm Receiver Chris it is/was quite common, particularly in car parks, etc.... As far as I can tell the BECM would count the number of what it thought were 'entry attempts' and then go into 'lockdown'... Mine ('95) seemed to like doing this in multi-storey car parks (about to close) in particular for instance (first time this happened cost me 4 hours of my life that I won't get back..) but of course they "improved" all that with later models, as we know... !!
I think that's the part of the problem Sloth, when it comes to "syncing" (on later cars) the fob needs to sync to the BECM (as you just described) and on all ages (using EKA) we need to sync the locks to the BECM and the BECM and ECU need to be synced and so on... One thing's for sure though, without sync we're sunk !
Sloth:
Though I'll add - the P38 system isn't like other cars in terms of the inductive coil around the ignition barrel. On a P38 this coil tells the key to transmit as if you'd pressed a button. So the key does need working batteries and the RF receiver in the car needs to work.
- I didn't know that, I had the impression that coil around the ignition provided the power to the fob (as on other makes as you said later) !
Obviously by 'passive' LR meant 'it does it by itself'' then ?! Sorry, Morat !
Ok, I don't know if this is allowed either:-
http://workshop-manuals.com/landrover/p38/86_electrical/description_and_operation/page_1502/
Ah, no that's the point, being passive the fob does not need batteries for this to work (like a contact-less card);
I am not sure if this is OK to do, but here's the link: http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/becm/alarm.html
Yes, I did not mean and you need EKA to remove the former but "you can only enter EKA once the former is removed"
Still don't understand what is happening here either unless it is something (physically) intermittent though...
(or the system was already 'got at' somehow ?)
Sloth wrote:
If the central locking is working on all doors, then it shouldn't be needing the EKA... do you actually still get the 'engine disabled' message?
- Think this might be some confusion between "Key Code Lockout" and "Engine Disabled" Sloth (?)
(ie. you can get into the car OK but it still won't let you start it... and you need EKA to remove the former)
Yes, it might be the 'passive immobilsation' playing up Morat [RFID-type coil around the ignition switch, chip/tiny coil in the fob - and which can go out of sync (or just fail)] and so turning off the immobilisation would definitely help. Interesting that it started then stopped like that though so this passive part may be intermittent... but it might be the ignition (RF) coil connection to the BECM (?)
"B%%%%D Keyfobs" is right, Once that slot is knarled it is 'game over' and so like Gilbertd above I carefully drilled some holes - and made a 'special tool' (just two little bolts in some ally strip to get some traction/torque..) Yes, "B%%%%D Keyfobs" for sure (sorry but I do feel better now..)
Found this - something to memorise to upset the chaps in Halfords... (?)
" For many years, since the demise of Methanol based antifreeze that was traditionally only added just before winter, blue/green or yellow Monoethylene Glycol (MEG) has been the mainstay of the coolant market. However Ford vehicles since 08/98 have been filled with coolant combining Monoethylene glycol with Organic Additive Technology (OAT) corrosion inhibitors.
There are important differences between standard MEG and MEG with OAT. It does not contain silicates, nitrates, nitrites, borates, phosphates or amines so that:
· Without silicates, silicate gel or "green goo" does not form.
· By eliminating phosphates, hard water scale is reduced.
· Without silicates, phosphates, nitrates, nitrites and borates, abrasive dissolved acids are greatly reduced thereby diminishing water pump seal failures.
· Without amines and nitrites, there is no potential formation of nitrosamines.
All of this results in a considerably longer life span, whilst providing improved protection of all cooling system metals, including aluminium. Benefits over conventional silicate based coolants are:
· Improved water pump life due to reduced water pump seal wear.
· Fewer abrasive dissolved solids.
· Reduced hard water scale.
· Virtually no deterioration of heat transfer capacity during service life.
· Excellent protection against high temperature and pitting corrosion.
· No silicate gel formation during storage or use.
· Effective long-term corrosion protection for aluminium, brass, cast iron, steel, solder and copper alloys.
· Long effective service life of up to 10 years or 150,000 miles.
The two types of coolant should not be mixed. Vehicles filled with MEG will have coolant coloured blue, green or yellow. MEG with OAT additives will have coolant coloured Orange (Ford) or red."
- That said the colour may not be the best guide anyway..
https://www.opieoils.co.uk/pdfs/tech-articles/coolant-antifreeze.pdf
(Starting to wonder now though if it is conspiracy to force us to drain/refill just to be sure.....)
Sorry about the hijack, probably should just have started a new thread (?)
**no10Chris:
Most head gasket fails seem to be caused by people not using the correct, if any, antifreeze.
It eats the gaskets away between the cylinder and waterways**.
Do you mean they don't use the correct antifreeze for ally blocks/heads Chris ?
(Bit of a long-standing argument with folks saying 'antifreeze is antifreeze' !!)
Sorry Morat I was not disagreeing with you, as long as all the (really) useful data is one place it serves the same purpose !
(Sorry to hark on about the 'other' Site but all those dead links on the Mother Site were just completely unacceptable ....
when I complained they told me there were some 'information ownership' issues; In fact I suspect they just could not
be bothered to update it... ?... Or perhaps it then effectively increased the traffic to the RR Forum Site instead...?)
Incidentally Gordon I still don't know how to £contribute ... Put me down for 10 Windows stickers though.....
Good Stickies can certainly work if the content is carefully edited/controlled....
That was one of the key problems with the 'other' Site; The Stickes should have been expanded rather than all that 'just read Rave' nonsense !
Again John Brabyn pitched it about right, basically "useful/practical advice with pictures...."
Marty (somehow) managed to get them to post his Stickies on that 'other' Site and were/are invaluable, hence Toad's incessant 'just use Search'
could be extremely irritating too... Who wants to wade through 50+ threads/posts when it is (relatively) easy to consolidate it all in one place ?
Tin Foil hats not needed ! Don't want to 'hijack' further but this (US-Based) Site may help explain better just what I am on about....
http://www.networkadvertising.org/faq
... but the main point is that what is now 'acceptable' on-line may not be acceptable 'elsewhere'; Eg. If you walk down the High Street and look at Ready-Made Meals in Tescos then Morrisons do you want someone to tap you on the shoulder to tell your there is a Aldi round the corner ? Some folks are quite happy with this, but some want to opt out... or at least the option to do so, anyway..... The key issue is that if we want this we should then opt in not opt out (as it stands at present)....