I’m put off the OEM ones as Island 4x4 picture them on top of a certain blue bag that the ShitPart ones are pictured on.
A little off putting...
That’s usually my line of thought too, I’ll bet LR don’t use the same quality rubber that they used to either though.
David.
Or on eBay you've got a set of 4 Bearmach ones for £16:
David.
I've decided that the vague steering on my P38 is driving me nuts at the moment so it needs sorting...
First port of call is the radius arm bushes... Looking on the Island 4x4 website, they list:
Britpart - £2.99
OEM - £7.50
Genuine - 15.99
The rear end bushes:
Britpart - £1.00
Genuine - £5.25
(All prices per bush and + VAT)
Will probably do the anti roll bar bushes and drop links whilst under it too.
When you times the difference by 4 it makes quite a big difference... Usually I'd go for Genuine without batting an eyelid at it, however, it's got me wondering if the cheaper ones are actually any good?
David.
Well, this isn't directly Vogue SE related, however, the DSE that I've been working on when I've had time for the last (to embarrassed to say how long) finally rolled out of the workshop today!
Suffice to say the last time it say daylight was over 12 months ago!!
For some reason the air suspension isn't coming up this time, the last time I had it running in the workshop the suspension came up without any problems. Today, it's not lifting it up at all.
I've parked it on the drive next to the Vogue SE for now until I can get my pressure gauge back that I leant to someone to find out why it's not coming up. The compressor is running and the valve block is clicking away for it's just not lifting.
David.
When ours was wandering, I found changing the radius arm bushes to make the biggest difference in making the car feel sure footed.
David.
The interior needs a good clean in those pictures. I’m going to get the leather cleaned and treated when I’ve got time.
The car would have originally had a cream leather gear lever, however on the original bill of sale for this car shows an expensive optional extra for the walnut gear lever.
It’s a really nice car to be fair. Needs a couple of bushes but other then that drives perfectly.
David.
Here's a few interior pictures as you requested :)
David.
Well, I've recovered it from being a 2.5ton paper weight...
I had a good poke and a prod tonight, I removed the door latch and tested it on the bench using Marty's guide and it's responding as you'd expect on the multimeter. The Microswitches for the door lock don't feel as nice as I'd expect, notchy almost but they're working.
I refitted the latch to the car and attempted to enter the EKA code but it wouldn't take it. The handbook for this car says turn the key 4 times to the left before entering the first digit of the code. Every time I turn the key the indicators blink and when I enter the first digit the car unlocks. Putting the key in the ignition everything looks ok until you try and crank it and it says "Engine Disabled, press remote". Pressing the remote, nothing happens unfortunately. I stripped the steering shroud off and had a good look around all the connections incase the coil that detects the key was unplugged but it wasn't.
In a last ditch attempt I got Testbook out again and plugged it in. Thankfully and much to my amazement it connected to the BECM... I was scared it would be locked out. I changed the country back to Rest of World and disabled the passive immobilisation and once programmed I turned the key. This time the engine cranked. Unfortunately the battery must have gotten weak during all the mucking around so it's sitting on charge at the moment. I knew there was a reason I bought a 7amp C-Tek charger when it was on offer in Halfords.
So... I'm hopeful the car will start again in an hour or two but it doesn't look like I'm any closer to having the remote locking working.
David.
Interesting that it cross references as a generic sensor as there's 3 different types of plugs on the sensors so a generic one wouldn't fit all P38's.
If it's running like a bag of spuds with the new sensor it definitely sounds as if it's not working properly. I'd be returning it to Island 4x4 personally. When I did mine I bought genuine ones off eBay, have a look and see if you can get Bosch ones.
David.
Well, I was having a fiddle with Testbook tonight and I think I might have turned the P38 into a paperweight at the moment...
I looked up the BECM and noticed that when viewing the settings it showed the Market as being "Rest of World" and EKA/Passive not fitted... I changed that to UK and it warned me that I'd need my EKA code which I had so stupid me thought that Testbook might prompt me for the EKA code... WRONG... It says to enter it using the door latch or to insert the key into the ignition and press the remote...
When trying to enter my EKA code the central locking is locking and unlocking the car, the door latch feels strange through the key so I believe the door latch is gubbed, and when putting the key in and pressing the remote nothing happens...
Now the market is set to UK the option for EKA/Passive has disappeared but I can't start the sodding car.
Looking through Testbook it can test comms with all the outstations...
It tested the Instrument Pack, Centre Console, RH Door, LH Door, RH Seat, all of which passed the comms tests. I can't see anywhere using Testbook to check the inputs to the BECM from the door latches. I've checked Health Check, Sub-system tests and Vehicle Maintenance but there's nothing there.
I'm really beginning to wonder if it's worth buying a nano com at the moment. Anyway, until I can get a door latch I think the car is stuck where it is.
Off the top of my head I can't remember, I'll need to have another look.
Thinking about it, I keep my EAS locked at highway height and I'd totally forgotten that it doesn't automatically drop to highway height when on the motorway.
There's no warnings on the dashboard though to say there's a door ajar.
Will try and get it onto Testbook this evening and see what it shows.
David.
Update... just been out and checked again...
Open front drivers door - thump latch, relay clicks, lights come on.
Wait for lights to go out...
Open rear drivers door - no interior lights.
Wait for lights to go out...
Open tailgate - lights come on.
Wait for lights to go out...
Open rear passengers door - no interior lights
Wait for lights to go out...
Open front passengers door - about 1 - 2 seconds after opening the door a relay clicks and the lights come on.
David.
I vaguely remember mucking around with the passive immobilisation in the BECM with Testbook and it not making much difference so I'll try it again.
I used to get the Ignition Key In message when removing the key but a bit of graphite grease seemed to cure that and I've not had it come back since.
The interior lights have been temperamental since I got the car and I've noticed tonight that thumping the edge of the drivers door where the latch is will bring the interior lights on. It didn't seem to make any difference when opening the other doors. Surely I can't need 4 door latches? Do they all work through the drivers door latch?
David.
My 2002 Vogue SE has never had working remote central locking since the last owner bought the car. I've got 2 remote with the car and these both work, the lights on both come on when you press the keys but nothing happens when you try and unlock the car. I've tried the usual process of re-sync'ing the key to no avail.
The other thing I've noticed is that none of the front speakers on the car work either. I wondered if this was an amplifier fault initially but I'm now wondering if everything is related.
I've checked all the fuses in the side of the BECM and they're all ok, I've checked the antenna behind the rear seat is connected but nothing seems to be making any difference. When checking the remote locking with Testbook it tells you to press a button on the remote but the test fails.
Has anybody got any ideas where I'd be best going from here? I don't mind doing some digging to try and sort it but am unsure of the best route to take.
Thanks!
David.
Apologies for the delays... time is a rarity these days.
The Blue VSE has indeed found a new home now. I believe the chap who bought it owns CNS4x4 but I'm not sure. If I'm right, chances are it's away to be broken.
The red VSE has one annoying issue that I'm about to start another thread on, otherwise, there's little to report. I treated the red car to 4 new tyres and the wheels balanced the other day and it's made some difference to the car. She's not done 1000 miles since May but in the snow we had last week she went straight into service and never missed a beat.
David.
I'm looking for one! I will message the chap now.
Mark did have one custom made for his. He was going to send me the template he used for it but then the unthinkable happened.
David.
Well, my air conditioning recharge lasted 24 hours.
Whilst I had my head under the bonnet I could hear a hissing noise from the low pressure pipe on the bulkhead right beside the filling port. I actually thought it was the filling port leaking but it turns out that it's a pin hole in the back of the pipe and the bulkhead is covered in UV dye.
I'm now getting pissed off with the car being steamed up all the time in this weather and want it fixing.
In the summer I replaced the drier, condenser and both pressure switches, it now definitely needs one pipe but I'm thinking I might as well replace all of the pipes and be done with it. I managed to get the pipe from the drier to the condenser from eBay, there was a genuine one for £25.
There's 3 other pipes I need, the evaporator to compressor, compressor to condenser and evaporator to drier. The 2 pipes from the evaporator on the car have a join, one beside the EAS box and one behind the N/S headlight. The pipe from Island 4x4 for the Evap to the Compressor appears to be in one piece according to the pictures. Has anyone else replaced these pipes and knows of a definite good source?
https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/pipe-compressor-evaporator-0002-jue109220-p-8010.html
The evaporator to drier they don't seem to list.
David.
Rather then helicoiling a manifold bolt, it might be worth having a look for a machine shop that could remove the bolt via spark eroding. I did that with a cylinder head on an old Discovery I owned, worked a treat and there's no chance of you drilling it slightly off centre or not square.
David.