Thanks very much! I'll give that a go when I'm at the desktop, with a CD drive.

I meant to say above.... RAVE...? I've never managed to find a useable download of this, so I tend to work off the paper manuals - P38 and 300Tdi.

Well, pretty good day today actually.

I got the arb links done up - to 125Nm! - that was actually easy enough once I'd got over my numpty idiot moment and realised the chassis 'recess' for the links is actually open at the top..... On the question of torque values it's quite noticeable that the P38 torques are significantly higher than the Defender. I guess it's a big, heavy car, and is capable of travelling much faster.

Got the panhard rod on too, with new bushes. Those bolts are even tighter.... I've found I can 'bench-press' 200Nm. On another forum, discussing Defender panhard rods, someone was saying it's the clamping force of the nuts that make the difference, not the bushes. At 200Nm I can believe that. Panhard rod was actually a bit of a pain.... With the axle so stripped down; radius arms off, albeit one at a time; shockers off; air springs off; etc etc. the only thing holding it in place was the propshaft. So, the axle had actually moved sideways a little, and needed to be persuaded back the other way. I have some sash clamps that I needed to put into 'spreader' mode, but it worked OK.

I also got my new drag link and track rod set to length against the old ones - near enough to get going with when the time comes.

Got the driver's side swivel adjusted - a bit disappointed that it's maybe 1mm 'high' after the final torqueing up - but I'm afraid that's close enough for me today. If it causes problems, now that I've a better idea what I'm doing, I can revisit it.

...and finally, some fun and games with the passenger's side CV joint and boot...... What a pain. There was no way whatsoever that my new boot was going to stretch enough to fit. Not a chance. So (should have taken pics of this!) I suspended the driveshaft and hub from the floor joists and tried to clean out the boot and the old grease as much as I could.

Interestingly inside the boot, which was "attached" at the CV joint end by a loose, large tie wrap, I found the old crimp clamp! Quite innovative I thought.... I wonder if they've done the same on the driver's side?? Might find out tomorrow.

Anyway, got the old grease out; new grease in; used my clamping pliers for the first time, then reintroduced the driveshaft to the axle! Starting to look like a car again.

Ah well, a joyful time ahead fiddling with my 16mm spanner then..... I might see if I can find a thinner/smaller one in an old bicycle toolbox that can be bent into a more helpful shape. The alternative is to try and 'clamp' the link into the chassis with some plumbers pipe grips and see if they can provide enough friction to allow me to spin up the nut. I'll try that first just because it's easier.

I was actually wondering if the picture/fitting alignment was a typo - not the torque setting. Pretty sure 125Nm is correct - it's in my manual and I've just checked another version online. But there's not much diffference between 125Nm and just doing it up 'FT'...

A miserable day up here, so perfect for spending some quality time in the garage.

In fact yesterday was a lovely day - and I still spent it in the garage! I was working on the O/S and got the radius arm, airspring, shocker and brake fllexi fitted, and then the swivel ball joints into place.

Today I followed the procedure for setting the height of the N/S swivel. I was a little concerned about this (hence my other post about the dimensions of the special tool) but in the event it went OK. The alu. tube that's pictured in one of the posts above worked pretty well as a datum point and I think it's now as close as I'm going to get without the tool itself or a functional copy.

As well as the swivel height, I also fitted the axle oil seal using an old bearing outer race as a drift. Happy with that. I'm not more or less at the point where I can refit the driveshaft, but before I do that I'm going to try and fit a new CV boot to it. Never done this before..... I bought a CV boot 'cone tool' - but I've decided to modify it so that I can fit the boot from the diff end of the drive shaft (given that they're out of the car anyway). That way the boot only has to stretch over the small flange that sits against the axle seal. Sounds simple enough, but anything involving lubrication and stretchy rubber..... well... there may be some verbal encouragement required as well.

I think I'd rather not heat up the boot using hot water - as that will potentially introduce some water into the joint - even if only minimal, so I have the boots sitting on top of the heating boiler overnight. Does boiling water do the job OK without affecting the CV joint??

So here's where I'm at right now on the N/S:

And finally for now, (another) question.

I'm using new anti roll bar links. The manual shows them fitting like this - with the chassis end inside the little 'housing' for it.

However, if I do this, how do I get the nut tightened up? It's supposed to go up to 125Nm, and the ball joint and stud are already turning as I try to tighten the nut. There's a flat on the ball joint end of the stud for a 16mm spanner, but I can't get to it when it's inside that chassis recess??

Is the manual picture a 'typo'? Would it go on OK from the other side? I just can't remember how the old one was fitted when I removed it.

He he. Well, maybe not then.

However, I have to say that maybe I was making too much of this. I've managed to get one side adjusted to my satisfaction using the aluminium tube I'd bought to set into the axle and through the swivel as a datum point. There's maybe 0.25/0.5mm of a difference top to bottom, but that's all. Let's see how that goes in real life once the car's back on the road.

If someone does have, or find the critical measurements for the adjustment tool I'd still be really pleased to get hold of those, and maybe make one up that could 'do the rounds' of forum members as required. While I think I've got the height correct, I might not have, and might be dealing with a leak in a few weeks time - in which case the 'tool' would come in very handy.

Hi guys,

I've searched here, and googled extensively, but no joy....

I'm at the stage where I'm about to fit the swivels back on. I had to remove the old collets, so vertical adjustment will be needed. My googling has shown some Heath Robinson options and I might try a 'workaround' based on these. I'm confident that I'll get it "into the ballpark", but I don't really want to get into a protracted series of tinkering and adjustments, so ideally I'd like to get the proper dimensions and see if I could get something made up locally.

The web has thrown up nothing. Forum posters saying they'd measure and post and then nothing. There was a hopeful looking attachment on the rr.net site, but it can't be found. It's like looking for the 'poo' from the offspring of a unicorn and a rocking horse....

As we probably all know, the proper tool is about £1k..!

I think I did ask this earlier, but buried in a rebuild thread, so I thought I'd try once more and ask more specifically.

Ta.

(off out to the garage shortly to see how confident I am in the results of my workaround option)

Thanks guys.

Chris - I think it's always the case that the 2nd, 3rd or whatever time you do a job it's easier. You'll pick up ideas or solutions that work. I'll know next time....!

Not much progress on the axle itself to report, but the crusty EAS tank has been zapped with the grinder brush, rust converted, and now enjoying its first coat of paint. 2nd coat tomorrow eve, and hopefully make more progress on Friday when I've a day off work.

I've also decided to get a new hub/bearing for the offside. The heat coming off that wheel with the binding brake was just intense, and I recently had to change a wheel bearing on the Defender where heat had clearly affected the grease that was in there, though I don't really know why. There's obviously no logical link between them, but it doesn't stop it playing on my mind!

I've got a timken bearing one coming up, so if nothing else it will be peace of mind.

Right, time for a wee update.

The rust remover stuff which Morat mentioned worked really, really well. Quite impressed with that, and something I'll keep in my armoury.

The knuckles / hub carriers came up pretty well:

Then on the way to both being primed and painted:

The axle ends were a bit more tricky obviously. I had to go around each nook and cranny with a hammer and chisel first to get the bigger/flakier bits of rust off. There was a lot of this.... After that, a combination of grinder and wire brush; drill and various wire brushes for the same nooks and crannies.

Then I used a rust converter - not the best pic...

and couple of coats of paint - but shiny black paint, inside a dark wheelarch doesn't photo too well.

Actually, the OS just got its first coat of paint today. On the NS this is roughly where I'm at just now:

The pics also show Clive's 'spare' radius arms which changed hands - now painted and installed!
The aluminium tube is my 'work in progress'/Heath Robinson thing which I'll use to try and set the hub height as close as I can.

Will get another coat of paint on the other axle end tomorrow and maybe make some more progress fitting up the NS hub. Off to a Covid-safe 'party' now... so it will depend on the state of my health tomorrow!

Ah.. never thought of something like a 'bleed' groove. Makes sense.

In any event, while I was waiting for paint to dry on the OS end of the axle I had a go at this. It's certainly complicated by the fact that with the car on the ground, I can't actually focus close enough to see what I'm doing properly! My glasses aren't designed to work on something 6" off the end of my nose!

I'd assumed that with all 4 airbags empty, there would be no pressure in the tanks. Not so. However I take this is a very good sign that the tank is holding air and worth refurbishing. I bled it in stages via the bolt opposite the air hose. No drama.

Then, it put up a bit of a fight as I assume it's never been off the car, but my garage-fu was strong today, and eventually three out of three of the bolts snapped. Thankfully in a manner that allowed me to remove the tank.

This is the top - still a little rusty:

and the rest:

I'll do the whole wire-brush, prime, paint thing and get it refitted. I think I'll use stainless spire nuts and ss bolts on reassembly, with an anti-galling paste. One less thing for the MOT man to pick up on.

Sometimes I think that good evidence of recent work makes them view a car a little more kindly, and what might have been a borderline 'fail', they'll make as an advisory - being more confident it will be sorted.

Thanks for the further replies. No doubt I'll be along with more daft questions as I tackle this!

However, at this stage, if I was to take it out and refurb, I'd like to use new 'fittings' and I don't mean just the ones attaching it to the car. I have enough 'stock' of regular or stainless nuts n bolts to manage that.

I'd like to replace the air hose entry thing; the big m8 x 22 bolt at the other end; and the drain plug. However looking at the parts diagrams on 'new lr cat' they only really list the whole assembly. Does anyone have another source of part numbers for those bits n pieces?

Clive - I've been pondering doing another PM to ask about your spare tank, just in case I take this one off; attack it with the wire brush/grinder and find that it's too far gone. But I think I'll just see how I go in the first instance. However I'd definitely be interested in your 'sticker' pdf file. I'll PM again in case my email details weren't on the last one. Ta.

Thanks guys,

More verbal encouragement Clive...?! I indulged in some of that today when trying to get the clips onto the top of the front suspensions bags...

Seems this is just another question mark about last September's MOT.

I think that the point about 10bar or so is important though. I'm too used to 230bar in scuba, so probably overly sensitive.

I will look at the manual, but in the real world, how awkward is it to remove? If I'm going to be using the wire brush on the grinder, I'd prefer not to be doing it lying on my back. I've no reason to believe it wasn't holding air so if the consensus is that it's not a disaster, then dropping it out and tidying it up will be the thing. More mission creep....!

Yep, that's my concern really. However my experience with the axles has been that once I chip away the old paint, and the blown rust underneath, then what's left seems OK.

I think/hope this will be the same as a quick look suggests it's not such an easy thing to get hold of, and £310 new....

Hi guys,

Been making some progress on getting my car moving again - working on the front axle 'refurb'.

While doing that, I was undoing the back of the OS radius arm and had a closer look at the EAS tank. It looks more than a little 'crusty', with maybe, some pitting.

With the axles/hubs I've found that a hammer and chisel is an effective way of removing the rust and it seems simply that corrosion has got in underneath the original paint.

I guess this could be the same - remove it, clean off the rust, prep and paint - but it is a pressure vessel.

What do you guys think with more experienced eyes? At the moment the system is drained down to change the front bags, so a good time to pull this out.

Thanks as usual

Thanks Harv, that's good to know. The rails and bars are 'in the post' just now, and should arrive tomorrow. Looking forward to that.

Now I just need to get the car moving again. Off work tomorrow, so with the extended weekend I'm hoping to make some progress.

Ironically, I think the RR might be a little more awkward to load the canoe onto than the Defender - because it's lower.

I've got the hang of the lift/knee/twist/technique to get the boat onto my shoulders. With the Def I just walk up to the back of the car; rest the front of the canoe on the rear bar and lower the back of it onto the ground. I then step out from underneath, go to the back of the boat, lift it up and push it forward until the front of the boat rests on the front bar and overhangs the windscreen/bonnet.

More or less the same for the RR I'd expect, except that it's lower, so I'll have to shuffle/crouch out from underneath and maybe, because the rearmost bar won't be right at the back of the car, the canoe won't rest on it so easily, and might sit on the top of the tailgate??

That's a lot harder to explain in words, a pic would be easier, but that would mean having the car mobile and out of the garage.......

Thanks again guys,

I think the rails will definitely stay on more or less permanently; I think I can see myself taking the cross bars on and off, but I'll see how that goes once I'm more familiar with the fitting.

The canoe doesn't really need any mount as such - it just rests upside down on the bars and gets attached with a couple of cam tension straps; and ideally something from the 'bow' to the front of the car. I have some old neoprene/foam things on the Defender bars, and they do minimise and movement, but are simple to get hold of.

Just one last question on this - I promise! - somewhere I've read about a hole which can exist under the roof trim covers and which can leak into the car. I saw a picture, and can remember that this was at the top of the windscreen. I do have evidence of a leak at the top of the windscreen/left hand side. It could be the sunroof, or it could be this 'hole' if it exists.

It seems to me it would be better to check before fixing bars, so does anyone know if it's common to have a hole in this location, and if so, how would I remove the whole trim rail/cover things to check??

Ta

Donald

dave3d wrote:

There are a set of roof rails and the cross bars on Ebay at the moment. You will have to be quick, it finishes today:

Thanks for that Dave. I was watching a couple of listings on ebay, but I was successful with a 'snipe' on the one you linked to. £235 got it, which isn't cheap, but is a lot less than some are listed for, and it includes the cross bars as well as the rails.

Set against £150/170 odd for a quality set of bars that I'd need to bolt/unbolt each time I wanted to use them, I think it's a good option and it's getting that 'factory' look.

One last question from me on this one: how do the little tabs on the roof channel trim work? I'm always wary of old plastic where it's not immediately obvious which way it's supposed to work. Do they slide, or lever, or hinge or what?

Whatever it is, 20 years of UV exposure won't have helped.

Thanks all,

I was going to load a pic of the canoe on the Defender today, but imgur is playing silly b@ggers. I really don't want the app...!

The canoe sits very happily on two bars. Because it has its own curvature to the gunwales, a third bar is effectively redundant. Like I said above, the further apart they are, the better.

I see that Craddocks have a pair of the "sport bars" new for £217, which isn't ridiculous. Although as Clive says, the pic does show a pair fitted on the rearmost two locations. I'd hope they could be fitted at the front and back?

My car has no rails, and I would be near 100% certain that the covers over the mounting locations have never, ever been touched or moved. Brittle plastic is a near certainty.

Ideally I'd have a system that I could put on/off quickly - which maybe does point to the genuine rails, and then any old crossbars? I don't think I'd mind leaving the rails on permanently.

I'm not familiar with the yakima system, but I'll have a look.

Why bother, when I have the Defender? It's because they might be like a 'tag team' - when one's in the garage, the other stays mobile - and if the Def. had the rooftent on, then a little run out with the P38 would be called for..

Thanks again for the replies though. I'm better informed than I was this morning.

(Edit - just looked more closely at the catalogue link in Clive's post - it says the sports bars can be used in any of the three mounting locations, so that answers that question - but there's still the issue of something that's easily fixed/removed.)

Hey guys,

One of these days I'll update my 'ups and downs' thread to say that the car is back on the road and MOT'd..... I think I've all the parts I need, I just have to find a solid 2 or 3 days to crack on with it.

In the meantime, assuming I get to that stage one of the things I might want to do is carry an open/canadian canoe. I have a choice of 2 but they're both 16ft boats, and benefit from the bars being as far apart as possible ( fore and aft) on the roof. On the Defender this is easy, with bars that clamp into the guttering wherever you want. On the other hand, they're not that heavy - roughly 25-28kg depending on which one I take.

How does the P38 roof rack system work? I have looked at ebay etc and it does seem like it's a little more resticted, with some of the pictures I've seen showing the cross bars to be fitted relatively close together given the available length of the car.

I can see that there's a 'genuine' rail and crossbar option, but even used it's spendy, so for occasional use I guess I'm more likely to get 'bars and feet' but does that mean I'm restricted to specific points on the car? Could I use the furthest forward and back points to give the maximum spread?

And, any recommendations at all for what to get?

Thanks

(Edit to say I did try to search first, but couldn't find a specific answer)