^^^^ Well, it wasn't that easy. In fact it wasn't even the front passenger seat - it was the driver's seat. "Caveat emptor" and all that - should have been more careful. On the other hand, if I had been, I probably wouldn't have a P38 languishing in the garage.

When it was out of the garage, even briefly, I got the roof bars fitted and then popped the canoe on just for fun. Before anyone mentions it, I know it's not tied on!

As my wife pointed out, they even match vaguely.

Still trying to get to grips with my airbag fault warning. Maybe this evening. MOT booked for 2 days time.

Hi folks,

Just because it's airbags, and I'm a tad nervous, I'll try and bump this up again.

I've been googling, and I found this response from Marty (though on "the other side"):

_"Regarding the airbags themselves.......... the detonator in them requires an electronic pulse to actually fire the airbag, and due to this all of the airbag connectors in the system are a special type with shorting links in them, so that when they are disconnected, the shorting links close over and short the circuit to the detonator. This means that even if an electrical pulse was given to is somehow, the short circuit would stop the bag from actually firing.

Unless you are doing something stupid and trying to poke wires into the connector with a battery attached, and have somehow bypassed the shorting link, then they are very safe to handle."_

So, they are special connectors, with 'short circuit' links. I actually wonder if perhaps one of those short circuit links might have stopped working, or be intermittent - keeping the circuit closed even when the plug is connected. I've also read (though the caveat applies about the risks of believing all the stuff you find on the internet) that there is a resistor in there somewhere.

Given all that, and allowing that I'm going to be careful when connecting and disconnecting, and using a proper 2-way male/female connector, properly crimped with the correct tools, is there any reason not to do this? I'm thinking of using econoseal connectors here, just because the waterproof nature of them means there will be better isolation for the wiring.

Thanks

Thanks Brian. I've had this fault since I bought the car (about 10 months ago).

Hadn't really bothered much about it, but now it's MOT time, it has to be fixed.

It could be a battery thing I suppose, but for the last fortnight or so while I was finshing off some work on the front axle, the battery was out of the car and on a charger / trickle charger.

I'm pretty confident it's just the underseat plug, as spearating cleaning and reseating it made the problem go.... for 2 days! Easy to eliminate too I think, just by replacing the connector..... unless there's a problem with that cunning plan.

Well, it looks like I was a little premature... :-(

Although the car hasn't gone anywhere, the fault is back.In a burst of confidence I've booked it for an MOT this coming Wednesday, so it better be fixed by then.

On the nanocom it's going from permanent to intermittent. It'll clear for just a few seconds, before coming back.

I have a selection of multiplugs and pins so I think I'll just cut off the original ones and put something else in its place - unless anyone can tell me why this is a bad idea. I'll also see if I can highlight or identify it somehow, to make it obvious it's the airbag circuit.

Just when I was getting used to the dark, empty space on the pixel display...

I ordered up new panhard bolts, expecting the 12 point ones to match the locker plate (which itself seems to be NLA).

I was quite underwhelmed when 6 point bolts arrived, so while I used one of those with a new nut on the chassis end, I chose to re-use the better of the two original 12 points again on the axle end, with my original locking plate de-rusted and painted.

So, if you order new bolts via one of the suppliers, you probably won't get a 12 point.

When I got my car cruise control wasn't working. I read up on the system and had a look.

Simple it was. Two small lengths of hose had perished just by the vacuum actuator thingy by the LH wing. Got a length of silicone vaccum hose delivered, fitted two new bits, and it worked straight away.

Because I'd no idea how long it hadn't worked, I wasn't really expecting it to be such a simple fix - but that was all that was needed- two tiny bits of new pipe.

I believe there is one, not insignificant, downside to braided lines - that you're not supposed to clamp them shut for maintenance purposes as this can damage the ptfe liner. I wonder if this could be behind some failures? Folk being unfamiliar with this aspect of them, perhaps especially when they started to become more widely available and used?

Thanks GD - I was just about to come on and say "stand down". 5 mins work to get access to the plug under the seat; a squirt of contact cleaner in both sides; and the lights have gone! As someone else has said - if only they were all this easy.

I have to say, the pins in those plugs are really tiny and fragile looking, so it's not a lot of surprise that they cause issues. At least I know where to look the next time the lights appear - and it seems likely they will.

But thanks for the reply.

Now I can book it in for an MOT and see how that goes.

Evening all,

Firstly, thanks for bearing with me, and my little flood of questions.

I've tagged this onto the end here as the search threw this up as the most relevant.

I used my Nano for the first time a little while ago to try and get some more info about the airbag fault on the dash, and hopefully clear it.

I found it OK "code 050: the right hand airbag is open circuit (permanent)" - this was just after tinkering with the left hand yellow plug, as I'd been told that was the one with the dicky connection.

I tried to clear the fault; it would clear from the dash; but then come back on instantly.

Is this 'just' going to be the connector under the driver's seat do we think? Had to come in for tea, but I'll go out again later and see what that looks like.

Thanks

Thanks very much again.

Lots of food for thought there. While I have a practical eye, and can anticipate and consider basic things like axle articulation, I have to say it wouldn't even have entered my head to think about ABS or TC pulse resonance.

I think, when I come to strip down the back axle, I'll end up having to use the same wire brush + hammer and chisel + power tool brushes approach to deal with all the rust as I did with the front; not to mention the subsequent coats of rust converter, paint and underseal.

So I expect to have enough time, and better access, to have a good look at it all and consider what combination of flexi or kunifer makes sense; if/where to incorporate joins and how to route the lines. I already know from removing the EAS reservoir that there are additional joins in the existing copper lengths, so one of the motivations is just to simplify and improve while I'll have the system drained anyway.

I had a closer look at the DIY system GilbertD linked to above - quite surprising in its simplicity and something to think about - though I note the point about potential weakness in tension.

The only thing that's not in doubt is that I'll need to do 'something' - the state of the current system doesn't inspire much confidence.

Thank you. Just shows the danger of the internet - lots of odd advice. I appreciate the reply.

Hi guys,
Reviving an old thread, for what's probably a simple question - but googling and searching has thrown up conflicting advice.

If I want to investigate, unplug, clean, reconnect etc the yellow SRS plugs under the driver's seat, do I need to disconnect the battery, or just have the ignition off? I've even read somewhere that the battery needs disconnected, and then wait 15 mins.....

Common sense tells me it can't be that risky, as then if you move the seat back and forward, and the connection gets disturbed, the airbags would go off - which would be a 'bad thing' - but just want to be sure what the story is.

Ta.

Thanks Clive,

That scenario - putting the front pass seat forward for loading access is exactly what the original owner described.

Fingers crossed it will be that easy.

Thanks very much. I hadn't considered that pre-made kits might be available - or even DIY!

As soon as you mentioned the caliper-end fitting I thought 'of course!' - it is indeed a strange lump. It's obvious what it does, but I wonder if it's essential? The Defender doesn't have those - though I'm not suggesting it's the last word in technological advances!

Have you any thoughts about routing? Any obstacle to simpler, or more direct line runs?

Thanks

Hi guys,

It looks like I'll be following my front axle refurb with a rear axle one.... what fun!

A quick glance at the rear brake lines tonight showed lots of very, very rusty connectors and hose ends - and quite complicated routing, which (at first sight) I don't fully see the point of.

When I did my Defender recently, I went for a full set of braided, stainless lines for the entire system. Should never need to look at them again.

So I'm wondering about a set of these for the back of my P38. I don't know what the cost might be yet ( I need to take some measurements first and send these and some pics to the supplier so he can make up a quote). The full Defender system was ca. £300/350 I think.

If I did this, then I could go for a much simpler routing. I suppose it would be possible to simply run a long, single hose from the ABS unit to each caliper, allowing enough length for axle flex and articulation. More likely I'd opt to have a join in them somewhere. As they are stainless fixings there isn't much concern about future maintenance.

I did a search for braided lines and didn't find anything, so my apologies if this is an old chestnut.

So, has anyone done this? Are there routing issues to consider? Why do the lines run up from the chassis to the top of the rear shocks... and then over the tank.. ? Is there any reason a much simpler/more direct route can't be used?

Even if there is a reasonable expense involved, apart from longevity, not having to deal with awkward joins and routing would probably be worth paying for in my opinion, and would doubtless avoid lots of stress and swearing.

As always, any advice or comments gratefully received.

Thanks.

Thanks GD,

Definitely a wee success tonight! Got the collet and O rings cleaned, lubed and into the plug; plug into tank; pipe trimmed chamfered and pressed firmly into the plug - and away we went!

I eased it out of the garage so as not to poison myself, and then let it run. I was getting a little anxious when rear then front climbed up.

As I still have an MOT I took it for a test run. Learnt that you can't drive a P38 in rigger boots.... it's hard to show off its acceleration when your foot is pressing accelerator and brake at the same time. Had to stick it on cruise control and yank one boot off!

Nice to get it going again! Nice also to have no fresh warning lights - unfortunately the friendly old 'SRS / airbag' couple are still hanging around. I was told by the seller this was something to do with the passenger seat. We'll see.

I do have a nanocom evo but have never used it, so I'll need to register that and see if it can clear those codes.

Then... a new MOT hopefully before I tackle the rear axle, though that could end up being the other way around..

Thanks again guys,
I got the collet and O rings out of the plug - managed not to lose them!

I think there's life left in the O rings and the collet, so I'll have a go at putting that back in meantime. On a point of detail - to save me watching dozens of videos - on reassembly is it simply two O rings inserted, and then the collet; or are one or other of the O rings supposed to go around the outside of the collet? I hope that makes sense, if not I can try and get a picture later. It seems to me as if o ring + o ring + collet is right, as I can't imagine how I would manage to get an O ring around the collet taper once in the plug, and they certainly won't go into the plug if joined together. Edit: I think I've got this now. A bit of googling suggests that I am right - two o rings, then the collet. O rings seal around the pipe; collet holds it in place.

Clive - if you are willing to machine a replacement plug in your exceptional toy box, then I'd happily source a plug to send down?

Thanks again. Fingers crossed I'll get the car mobile again tonight and out for a test drive. I kind of have to as the MOT expires tomorrow!

Excellent, thanks. Given that there's no pressure in the tank anymore.. I'll undo the nut and take it apart on the bench.

I just hadn't got to the stage in my P38 journey where I knew the collets would come out.

I thought I'd pushed the pipe in OK, but clearly not. I'll also check the end of the pipe for damage, but I wouldn't expect that.

Thanks Clive. I had that exact same thought about the EAS tank fixing. That it probably went on before the body was lowered onto the chassis.

The EAS thing - there isn't actually an additional coupler in there, so I'm not sure what you mean? I can picture the sort of connector I think you're referring to, but perhaps it's something to do with the model year?

On mine, the pipe just plugs straight into the connector/collet which itself is integral to the bolt which screws into the tank. I was assuming (dangerous!) that there were no serviceable parts in there? As I say I've been told STC3809 is unavailable. On second thoughts, has someone before me cut a corner somewhere? Is the pipe supposed to go into an inline connector, and then another length of pipe goes into the reservoir fitting?

Re bleeding the brakes - it's certainly complicated in comparison with anything else I've done. On the Defender, I plug in my pressure bleeder, run round all four corners and let fluid out, job's done. Having said that, we followed the checklist and it seems to have worked OK. The pedal didn't seem wonderful on the driveway, but then it is all new stuff at the front so I'd expect it to need some time to bed in.

Well.... ups and downs again today. No triumphal pics... as it was too dark, and by that stage I wasn't really in the mood.

Long story short, I got the car back onto all four wheels and out of the garage - even if only very briefly!

First hassle was getting the EAS tank back in. That fixing at the top/rear is a PITA. There was a sense of humour failure right there, and lots of verbal encouragement..

Then.... the joys of brake bleeding. As my wife has just said: "why was that so f***ing complicated?" Not only is it a complicated procedure, but access to those front and rear booster screws, up against the bulkhead is awful. I don't have tiny hands, but they're not massive either. Even then, getting in there with room and angle to swing a spanner is difficult.

Rear calipers were pretty crusty. In fact most of the stuff at the back looks pretty grim, but at least the bleed nipples opened and closed.

So, wheels back on, still on axle stands, start the engine. It started straight away so I was happy with that. Took a bit longer than I thought for the air springs to fill, but eventually it lifted enough so that I could get all the stands out from under the chassis and drive it out of the garage!

As it sat there running and warming up, I was sweeping up the garage floor when "PSHHHHHT" big air leak noise. The pipe has blown out of the EAS reservoir connector.... drove it back into the garage, switched off, and down it went :-(

Is there anything I can do to make that a better join? It was holding air OK before I took the tank out. Do I just put a tiny bit of lube on and reconnect? Ideally I'd get a new connector, but STC3809 seems out of stock everywhere.

Overall though, still making progress. It would have been nice to have managed a successful test drive, but on the other hand it's better to have that connector go on my own driveway that on a dark B or even C road somewhere.

What's the collective thought on the tank connector?