rangerovers.pub
The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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Now their place is burned to the ground they can't even give assistance or anti-freeze.

I know their customer service wasn't the greatest but isn't that a bit drastic? :-D

I guess the first thing to do would be to grab a copy of RAVE and start looking at the diagram for the tail lights.

They're controlled by the BECM, which will also give you warnings if the bulbs are out. You can ring out the wiring from the BECM to the lamp cluster to make sure there's no bad connections, or a poor earth. If the BECM is actually faulty then @Martyuk is yer man ;-)

It's on both gas and petrol. Previously they would start to switch quite happily about a minute after starting from cold.

Surely if they're not powered in open loop they will never heat up enough to start working and prevent it going into closed loop?

Yeah, I mean right now if you email me images I'll stick them up on the server. I just need to get the backend stuff updated and I can start building the uploader page.

The pumps do fail, and you can swap them around to test.

Would anyone who has pics up on Photobucket (with the attendant "linking disabled, gimme my moneyz" image taking the place of sensible stuff) like them transferred over to rrpub, as part of the ongoing updates?

Wouldn't bother changing the engine, I'd just throw a set of heads on it. Spitting back and missing on one cylinder sounds like a burnt valve.

Yeah, not interested in "going corporate". If you fancy sending me lots of money to pay for hosting, Range Rover parts or beer, PM me for my paypal address :-D

I have considered - in a later iteration of the site, once I get a few more things working properly - sticking some Google ads on for not-logged-in users so the Russian spam farmers can pay some of the hosting costs...

So I stuck new lambda sensors in my Rangie and sure enough they made sod all difference. It would appear that the lambda sensor heaters aren't being grounded by the ECU to turn them on.

Are there any funny situations where the ECU wouldn't just enable the sensor heaters?

Hi, good to see more new folk :-)

Unscrew the silencer and see if air is coming out when the compressor is running. The diaphragm valve may have split.

I know exactly how I'd do it, but I don't have enough keys / BECMs / receivers kicking around.

@Martyuk - STM32F103, can drop it down to sub-mA levels in sleep mode. Fire up a new thread, we'll see what we can come up with ;-)

That green diesel actually looks not too bad for the money. Pop along with an EAS cable and sort its shit out, and you've got a decent motor. Well, once you've put proper wheels on ;-)

I'm tempted to wade in with the comment that less than 200 miles range and no EV recharging points would leave me stuck at least three times a week, which is why it'll take a lot to replace my clunky old £750 banger on LPG, but then I'd have to create a P*st*nh**ds account.

Doubt it'll be the transfer motor if it doesn't do anything at all when you put it in low range...

Hi! Welcome aboard :-)

So while the new mixer and vapouriser on my 4.0 have seriously improved things, it would appear that both my lambda sensors are knackered! Neither of them are switching although judging by the performance things like the MPG on the trip computer dropping from 18mpg to 14mpg, the one that drives the gas system was probably okay the other night.

With the laptop plugged into the gas system I can see it's pegged fully lean with the stepper trying to open as far as it can go. Normally at all speeds (even at idle) it hovers right around the 90 mark with the odd excursion up or down under acceleration and lifting off. Would it be reasonably safe to just set the stepper values to lock it to 90 until I get some lambda sensors delivered? I figure that would make it work pretty much the same as a fixed power valve.

XYZ switch? Check the obvious - make sure the dashboard indicates it is in park or neutral. IIRC Thor engines won't turn over if they're immobilised, but GEMS will.

Can you jumper across the starter solenoid relay in the fusebox to get it to turn over?

Have you checked the maxifuse for the compressor and starter solenoid?