rangerovers.pub
The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
Member
offline
803 posts

If you've got aircon you'll need to follow the "quick" guide and drill two holes to get the duct to the rear seats out. You don't need to cut it like some sites say, you just need to bend it (and the side of the centre console) out of the way with a block of wood.

Getting the short elbow pipe from the driver's side blower to the airbox off will help you see the actual fittings.

You could look for clock pulses on the line to the window switch pack.

I've always found them to be pretty good. Did you tell them about the badly-packed waterpump and gasket? Did they do anything about it?

Measure the current drawn and see if it's worth it first, I'd say.

Hi Doug! Good to see more new people in :-)

Not sure what the wiring on your trailer connection is like but on UK/EU models at least (don't see why NA models would be different) the right hand side looking at the tailgate has a multipin plug with the "black" trailer connector wiring on it tucked in behind the rear light cluster. On the left side there's a plug with a couple of pins (fog lamp, split charge?) that go to the "white" trailer connector.

But chemical reactions work better when they're hot...

GazGuzzler59 wrote:

Also if any members in the west mids fancy a get together. I have a country pub and restaurant with a massive carpark, could probably hold 60 P38s!!

Now there's someone with good ideas!

Should now be in "ascii-betical" order. I was going to do it in case-insensitive alphabetical order but couldn't remember how.

It's been pointed out that the member list looks pretty damn weird, and there are a few other odd bugs like it tries to pop up a list of emoticons that there aren't any graphics for. It would be nice to be able to make a couple of people into mods or admins without nuking their passwords, too. Oh, and emailing from the topic notifier.

I was going to push an update this weekend but I've been poking about at cars, sticking the swivels back on my mate's S3 mostly.

The forum software is a bit like our beloved Range Rovers - it mostly works but there are odd bits that go boing or "beepbeepbeep" periodically ;-)

Well if we had a forum for "Leaky bits" then that would cover the whole vehicle and we'd never find anything.

Once that finally dies (it's on 169,000 miles)

So, in about another 169,000 miles?

I've been planning on replacing the cassette deck in mine with a bluetooth deelie for a while. I've just been paid, so that A2DP board might be getting ordered...

Delphi it is.

I'm about to buy new discs and pads for mine. The front discs were replaced about a year and a half ago but there's a bit of a "wobble" under braking from the front passenger side (although that seems to be getting better) so even though there's quite a bit of meat on them I'm planning on changing them.

All the suppliers I've seem seem to sell grooved and drilled discs from EBC and Terrafirma, or Brtprt. Can anyone recommend a decent disc that's not all boy racer drilled and grooved Fast and Furious stuff which seems singularly pointless on something like a P38?

Also, EBC Greenstuff - worth it? EBC Ultimax ones seem to be cheaper than the "normal" Delphi pads and people seem to like them. Any thoughts?

Yeah, I'd be looking for vacuum leaks around the evap plumbing and possibly cruise control valves. The pipes to the latter split and suck air in.

If I felt inclined I could Do Science by sticking my multimeter across the switched contacts and trying it with the current (fairly) clean pollen filter, no pollen filter and a cardboard blanking plate.

If I felt inclined.

Isn't RL7 one of the blower relays? That gets a bit of a beasting when the demister is on...

Not only is RRPub a new site but the forum software that runs it is under active development. It looks pretty good but it has a few oddities and outright bugs, and there are some little tweaks and things needed to make it all look right too.

If you find any new exciting faults or you've got some feature you just can't live without, post it here and I'll see what I can do :-)

If I recall correctly they have a short "pigtail" with a multipin plug on the end. I'm pretty sure the locks are mechanically identical - maybe an adaptor cable could be made up?