I've obviously broken some redirect, thanks for pointing that out.
try https://rangerovers.pub/downloads/rave.zip instead.
KCR wrote:
Gordonjcp … yes, very funny Description, but I think You got it. Read somewhere ( forgot where) that’s related to the big rivets which get minimal play.
I've always just ignored it, figuring it'll get worse or won't, and in roughly 100,000 miles in the past six years it hasn't got noticeably worse or better.
"They all do that sir"
KCR wrote:
There is a clunk which is characteristic of many P38 I experienced, which comes from the rear trailing arms ...
Is that the marimba-like "DOOONK" you get going from forwards to reverse or reverse to forwards, after you've moved about half a turn of the wheels?
Symes wrote:
There's a fella in USA who is buying all the 300tdi engines and gearbox's he can for replacing the V8 ---- I'm not keen on electric & I'm glad Thatcham scientists have realised going electric isn't that smart ---- like what to do as far as recycling or repair goes
Why would you replace nice clean quiet cheap-to-run powerful V8s with noisy, smoky, dirty, smelly, thirsty diseasels?
All three individually have more processing power than the BeCM has... just goes to show though - they did a lot with very little power back in the day.
Most of the BECM's code is down to toggling a few pins and reading a port, and then based on what it sees toggling a few more pins and writing a port! I suspect all the "hard work" like flashing the indicators and so on are offloaded to the massive custom chip on the board. The 68HC11 does handle the immobiliser "rolling code" decoding though, based on some numbers programmed into it. The decoding routine is a surprisingly small part of it - most of it is just write port write port read port compare write port write port write port, over and over and over.
It's for plugging it into an Atari to use as a really big Pole Position controller.
There isn't a prize or anything for it, I just thought it was cool :-)
A while back we had a massive influx of spam signups - thousands per day, and at one point thousands per hour - that broke the thing that emails out confirmation emails and password resets.
I just unbroke it, and it's launched a whole load of wedged emails out. If you've already had your account activated and now get an activation email, just ignore or delete it. You don't need to do anything.
There are a bunch of folk who haven't been manually activated, so I'll get them sorted out next.
Also if there's any crap in the mechanism, that's fallen in from the top.
Hi folks. The site's been subject to a couple of thousand signups a day for the past month and a bit, and it's done odd stuff to the registration email sender. I think it might be getting trapped as spam because it's flagging up as lots of traffic to spammy email addresses or something.
Anyway if you have been waiting for weeks to get on the site, I'm very sorry about that, and I hope it doesn't tarnish the rest of your experience.
As for the massive influx of bot accounts, we're either very popular or very unpopular, it's hard to say...
https://www.rangerovers.net/threads/info-rave-manual-download.88857/
He's linked to a copy of rave on here! The link is dead just now because I've not entirely finished migrating servers but you can bet your best pint of Best that it will redirect to the signup page just as soon as I get a chance!
JMCLuimni wrote:
- Why place the bolts on the P38 prop shaft in such a way that a speciality tool is needed that will only be ever used once in a lifetime? Why not make it accessible with an standard socket?
All propshafts are pretty much like that. FWIW the specialist tool fits most British vehicle propshafts, and also TR6 halfshafts.
I mean we know the Queen has various Landies, so it's on-topic. As I understand it her personal car up at Balmoral is an elderly L322, although whether she fettles it herself (could be) or is a member of fullfatrr (wouldn't be surprised, under a pseudonym) I couldn't possibly say.
Mine takes a good 30 seconds for the oil light to go out after changing the oil, even if I fill the oil filter up completely before fitting it. The light goes out instantly when I start it up normally, so I don't worry about the pump.
Someone posted on one of the Facebook groups the other day a blue P38 still in battenburg markings that was apparently a Blood Transfusion Service vehicle, intended to replace the bikes in bad weather.
Presumably in heavy traffic you don't weave through like on a bike, you just bulldoze it to one side.
Happy New Year! I quite liked 2020 because I got to stay at home with my family - which grew by one about two thirds of the way through.
Now since it's a lovely sunny afternoon and there's a bit of heat in that sun, I'm off to take the wee man to the park :-D
I feel it's worth pointing out that my P38 had a whine like that at the back when I got it, and six years and nearly 100,000 miles later it's just exactly as whiny as before.
Will we break 30k before the site's fifth birthday, on the 29th?
I guess if you use a grub screw you should stick a bit of thread locker or something on, so it definitely can't go all the way through if it rattles loose and get sucked into the engine.
So if I was buying parts to refresh the camshaft, I should probably throw a couple of rocker shafts into the order too? But the rockers are likely to be okay?
Mine are all the "bad" castings where the seats are supposed to sink, but I figure they'd have done that by now if they were going to.