The stats are pretty low really - Google won't plot graphs of reCaptcha passes and fails because they're too low - but they seem to come in multiples of five.
There are a surprising number of bots that reach but don't even make it past the signup page, because of a clever trick which I won't disclose but which will be obvious to the trained eye ;-)
Further to that, when I get an evening to work on the damn thing I plan on integrating the signup form with https://stopforumspam.com/ which while I wouldn't use it to actually deny someone an account without human intervention might be pretty good for "quarantining" suspect accounts.
One thing to watch is that a lot of folk have signed up but never completed their registration, possibly because they use a Hotmail or Live.com account which filters spam pretty aggressively and doesn't like the confirmation email. If I see someone who looks "real" I'll check their username and email on stopforumspam and then fire them an email from my personal gmail account, which usually has better luck with spam filters.
If anyone felt a bit underemployed and fancied demonstrating their Python skills, I can point you at the github repository :-D
I had all sorts of weirdass behaviour after redoing my cylinder heads. Turned out that the crank position sensor plug was full of water.
The main symptoms were that it would rev perfectly okay to about 2000rpm, and then start farting and spluttering and backfiring. Dried the plug off, stuck it back in, fault gone.
I could easily see Aragorn's fault being a dying crank position sensor, especially since Citroën CXes with AEI do exactly the same thing :-)
Surely a 108" Series body on a P38 chassis?
On the forum? Shouldn't need a plugin for anything, unless someone's uploaded something funny.
Which page?
I think it's the angle the multivalve neck sits at.
I've got a "zero degree" single-hole tank, with one port sticking out the side where the multivalve is nicely protected from clouting by the rear axle :-)
Does it do it when you run it on petrol? Someone on here (Gilbertd?) had a vapouriser fail and bleed gas into the cooling system, giving hydrocarbons in the water and boiling up like crazy.
The only place water can get into a cylinder really is in 1, 2, 7 and 8, and if one is going to go it's usually 8. Do any of the plugs look "steam cleaned"?
If it's dropped a liner - which is possible, mine had - then at idle when it's warm you might hear a steady ticking noise at twice the speed of a ticky tappet. It sounds exactly like the canister purge valve down on the right side of the engine bay as you look in, so don't confuse it with that.
Not sure what all that about "the computer alternating the water flow" is, that sounds like someone's spinning you a line.
At the risk of sounding like a certain other forum admin, you want to check RAVE for that:
I was pretty surprised recently to find that I had almost no brakes at all, coming up to a busy roundabout at the bottom of a steep hill. A quick scan of the panel revealed the two brake warning lights on (mine's non-ETC).
The pump isn't running, but if I jumper pins 2 and 5 on the plug for the pressure switch it runs just fine. As an emergency measure I cracked open the relay and poked it with my finger to run the pump, and here's the weird bit - when it gets to a certain point, the relay pulls in by itself and then cuts off when the accumulator reaches pressure!
Is this a sign that the pressure switch has failed?
Sounds like a discussion worthy of a thread of its own! :-)
I just jacked mine up until the bags were "floppy" and I could get at the upper shock bolt. Taking the wheel off didn't actually make it any easier, so when I did the other side I left the wheel on.
That's certainly something to look at. I'd have expected it to be stiff to move with the engine cold and not started yet, though?
I've noticed that the gear lever on my thirstymatic V8 gets stiffer and stiffer to move as things warm up. It's kind of always done it but it's recently got worse. I gave the exposed bit of teleflex cable underneath a bit of a a clean, but it hasn't really helped.
Is it just a worn cable, or grease drying up somewhere, or a sign of annoying, difficult and expensive repairs in the box itself?
They came with Dunlop bags. If you order new ones now, they will be Dunlop bags in a Britpart box, presumably because Britpart are happy to buy them in the sort of quantities Dunlop want to sell them in :-)
I pinned mine up with upholstery or "piggie" pins. It's a wee bit Chesterfield sofa looking, but it's better than driving a bloody Bedouin tent!
Frankly if you're at all unsure about the bags just replace them. They're far more likely to leak than the block.
Aye, it's a bit of a pain in the arse. You need to upload the photo somewhere, then paste the link in.
It's been on my list pretty much since the site started...
I actually scored an EAS "emergency lift" kit from a scrapper the other day with the four Schrader valves and T-pieces. Just seemed a bit too good to waste, even if it's not something I'd be inclined to use.
I spotted a P38 in a scrappy today with a calibrated speedo, which got me wondering what its history was. My first thought was ex-cop car but it doesn't have a "Special Vehicles" plate on it (that I can see). It's obviously had the interior fiddled with because the seat bases and carpets are black but the seats are cream leather, same as mine.
It's got a highline BECM but there's a lowline BECM lying in the boot! I got the VIN if that helps anyone. It's on a private plate but it's probably a fairly early one. The tailgate is badged "4.0 SE".