The battery was okay but with spending an hour or so dicking about trying to diagnose what's gone wrong it is now flat. It was charging well when I drove the car yesterday, with the little LED meter thing in the 5V charger adaptor saying 13.7V.
It's not asking for the EKA, and I don't have a note of that here anyway.
I'm not seeing the engine management light come on, although I can hear the fuel pump start up and run. It seems to have switched and unswitched 12V available at the right pins.
I also notice it doesn't have its alternator light coming on. I did change the alternator recently, although it's worked since then.
The compressor won't run unless the ECU turns it on, which needs the engine running and no "hard faults" stored. Making up the EAS Unlock Suite cable and getting the software installed would be a good thing right now.
Once the compressor is running it'll just fill the tank until the pressure switch tells it to stop. It won't attempt to level the vehicle until all the doors are shut, and if it's been sitting with the doors open for a while it'll go to sleep and need you to poke the height selector switch to set it going again.
oilmagnet477 wrote:
She is beginning to 'lose' coolant more markedly so think that at some point I'm going to need to invest some ££££ with Turner Engineering - as my long time 'retirement car' I will happily spend £5-7k when time and funds allow but that is some way off!
If it's anything like mine, it's pouring out of the front of one or other of the heads where the gasket is about as wide as it is thick ;-)
Mine's a daily and it does an unholy amount of miles for a 21-year-old vehicle. Not nearly as much as Gilbertd's though ;-)
I've got a 95 litre tank which used to click off at 80 litres from dead empty. Worryingly, it no longer clicks off but I stick about 80 litres in when I get down to empty and it's fine. Anyway, with a rather tired GEMS with single-point I'm getting roughly 200-240 miles to a tank, although today I got well over 280 miles. Must be magic gas or something, I was genuinely wondering WTF the engine was running on by that point.
An 84 litre tank ought to hold 70 litres, give or take, so for the same sort of fuel consumption that mine's got I'd expect about 175 miles or so.
The problem isn't people like Greta Thuneberg, the problem is the hardline far-right politicians like Trump, Johnston, Corbyn et al who don't really care about the environment but see the whole thing as a great way to sell more debt.
"Hmm, so we can ban combustion engined cars, and get folk to buy electric ones? And we'd sell those on finance deals, like the existing scrappage schemes?" and pound signs flash up in their eyes.
When I had my expensive introduction to P38 ownership I bought mine for 500 quid on eBay from a guy called cn4x4sss. Some 70k later it still works, although the tappets are so dished you could serve soup out of them. Think it was an additional 60 quid to stick it on a pallet up to Glasgow.
BlackSpeed66 wrote:
Arnott GenIII springs at all four corners
See, there's your problem. Fit proper Dunlops instead of those shoddy knockoffs and you won't have any of these problems.
Think that deserves to be more widely seen :-D
Watch, because I bought some O rings for my gearbox cooler pipes and whatever they were, they sure as hell weren't ATF compatible despite being apparently fuel and oil compatible. In about six weeks they'd turned to something like black evostick.
Someone set up an account apparently as RRTH years ago when this site started first. I emailed him at the time and he says it wasn't him, which might or might not be the case (it was registered from an IP somewhere in the US, but that's about all I know), and I locked it to prevent abuse. It can easily be unlocked, if he asks. If he wants to join the site - or LLT for that matter - then he'd be just as much a welcome and valued member of the rrpub community as anyone else.
Clive603 wrote:
Theoretically the air gap between ABS sensor and reluctor ring can self open up reducing the signal and causing problems. Seems unlikely to me as I've never met one that could be removed without destruction. They do self adjust after a new one has been put in all clean and nicely lubricated but after a few years ...
Mine popped out incredibly easily, and went back in again with no drama. Not like the bloody hub bearing carrier...
RutlandRover wrote:
If he's doing any proper offroading on much more than a mild slope in a field he very definitely wants to use low range manual mode - especially if inexperienced.
Manual is just going to give you problems. Anything vaguely steep needs low range, but like I said I've never found manual to be useful.
If it actually was manual then it might be okay but all it does is start off in first then attempt to jump to the selected gear once the travel speed is high enough for it so you just end up screaming around the place in 1st all the time.
RTFM. There's a whole section in the manual on driving off road.
I use mine off road a couple of times a week at work, and I've found that Cooper Discoverer ATs were as good as anything else in all but really wet skittery mud.
I never bother with manual mode in the low box, just stick it in 3rd for going up hills and 1st going down, and D for everything else. It's really really important to remember that in 1st the sprag clutch in the gearbox is locked up so it won't try and "freewheel" down the hill! Try it in high range on a quiet bit of road or big empty car park - in 2nd or above as soon as you lift off the throttle the revs will drop and you get very little engine braking, but in 1st it'll stay locked together.
Just remember "As slow as possible but as fast as necessary", and you'll be fine. And there's *always* another route. You want the slowest easiest route, where you can.
Gilbertd wrote:
But only if you have a laptop with a serial port.
This is true. I'm so used to keeping a USB-to-serial cable kicking about for EAS, the gas ECU and of course all that Cisco bollocks at work that I forgot that a lot of folk won't have half a dozen just lying around ;-)
If you download the software there's a helpful PDF that explains how to make the cable.
Pierre3 wrote:
children don't normally read through forums about specialist cars when they can't drive
I was going to say something like that but there's a 12-year-old sitting Minecrafting away on the other side of the room who's a better off-roader than most of the grownups I've ever encountered, scary good at it.
and also that forums to do with DIY on vehicles would expect to receive earthy comments from home mechanics.
Hence the strapline of the site, decided upon in the original pub discussion to keep the rude-word-obsessed away.
Lpgc wrote:
the owner of the last Landcruiser I converted told me "If you want to go into a desert you need a Rangerover, if you want to come out again you need a Landcruiser". Oooh, uncalled for eh!
Well I guess the desert is dry so the Landcruiser won't rust its arse out before you get back.