You won't get a CEL for oxygen sensors. I've yet to find anything that puts that light on, other than the second or so it comes on while the ECU self-tests.

All the adaptor needs to do is convert the serial data on the diagnostics bus to something the PC can speak. The software on the host computer is responsible for asking the device to spill its guts, and interpreting the resulting runes.

I don't know what that imgur link had going on but it loaded some stuff that really, really broke the forum. Sorry folks.

You may also have spotted a weird blip a few minutes ago when I cocked up removing the offending bit of javascript. Anything posted in the last ten minutes (ie. between 19:30 and 19:40 today) is likely lost.

Mine sounded incredible when I drove it with just the Y-pipe and nothing after, round to my mate's house to borrow his grinder.

I think the highlight was sitting at a traffic light in the quiet, peaceful little rural village of Lennoxtown watching someone's massive sitting room window wobble in and out with the wofflywoffle at idle.

Hmm, that should be working. Let me have another poke at it...

I'll sort this out over the next day or two.

Sounds a bit weird. I'll look into it.

The software comes with a PDF that explains how to make the cable. I just soldered the extra wire onto the lead for my OBDII reader - and to be honest the EAS socket gets a hell of a lot more use than OBD! The bits are a couple of quid from Maplins, or wherever.

I chopped mine at the top, I pulled the bag off, I battered wedges in, I drove screws into the underside of the plastic top and in the end I admitted defeat, drilled two holes in the floor and battered them out from above.

I had that for only 27 miles (m25 mostly) got shook to bits, lol

Mine failed just leaving Bradford on the way back up from Infest last year, hard fault and drop to the bump stops. Guess who learned to make sure the diagnostic cable is definitely in the seat back pocket?

I think there's something weird going on with the way the server caches pages - it doesn't seem to get the idea of cache invalidation. What I might do is turn the cacheing off and see if any weirdness goes away.

I have no idea how the indicator for the inbox is supposed to work. Mine shows 1 or no indicator depending on how it feels on any given day.

Hi Chris, always good to see new folk on :-)

Oh well, that'll be next week then. I'm going to take both off and get them round to my local indy to press them in. Might as well do the panhard rod and anti roll bar bushes while it's all apart, too.

I've been wondering about that myself - there must be some way to match at least the preamble from the key. I don't have enough RR keys to try it with though.

I suppose you could make a receiver coded to one vehicle - the rolling code can't comprise the whole message, surely?

Not that I want to come across as overbearing and ZOMG CENSORSHIP, but I'd rather not have cracked software discussed openly ;-)

I need to do the front radius arm bushes, for which I'll probably hand them into my local indy who has the right tool to get them in (I've heard two-part "polybush" types aren't worth a damn, and proper ones are cheap).

If I take both arms off with the chassis on stands and the wheels chocked, how much of a cock of a job is it going to be to get it all lined up again?

Thanks for the suggestions, folks. Apart from checking that the backups get run periodically I have to admit to neglecting the maintenance around here a bit. One of the bugs fixed in upstream is that apparently it's now possible to edit user roles without clobbering their passwords so if I can prove that's working I'll make a few folk admins. And then you can make any sections you damn well please, within reason ;-)

I'll start this one off with - did anyone clock the black P38 in Better Call Saul S2E05? It's the one that the banking firm's lawyers leave HHM in ;-)

Is the brake modulator fault a real problem? I'm not keen to start hauling mine apart.

Easiest way to see if the accumulator is poor is to pump the brakes hard a few times. You'll hear the pump kick in but the warning light on the dashboard should stay off. Mine was utterly shot, took two minutes to change, and improved the pedal feel no end.