Is it actually waking the repeater though, or just doubling over the local signal? Bear in mind that the repeater will transmit every ten seconds or so anyway.
Okay, right digital repeaters are a bit different from analogue. With analogue repeaters you basically have a transmitter and a receiver in a box (often these are just two mobile radios), wired together. When the receiver hears a signal, the squelch opens and that keys the transmitter. You can do various neat tricks to share that repeater, like having it decode and retransmit different subaudible signalling tones (although I struggle with the idea of 110.9Hz as "subaudible" since it's about the same frequency as an open A string on a guitar).
Digital works rather differently, mostly because of how the two timeslots work. When your portable transmits, it'll listen to see if the repeater is transmitting first. If it isn't, it'll send a burst of data to wake the repeater up. If you're very out of range of the repeater, you'll see the LED on top blink a couple of times before you get the BEEEEEP tone warning you it can't transmit.
Once the repeater is up, it sends a string of timing pulses (the buzzing noise). When your radio wants to transmit, it picks a pulse and starts working in sync with that. It only transmits on every second pulse, so you get the two timeslots (two "channels" per frequency). Every so often when no-one is using it, the repeater will fire up and send a burst of beacon data so that the radios can check they're still in range. This isn't very useful on a single-repeater system but if you've got several of them it will help your radios pick the strongest signal to listen to.
Now here's where the troubleshooting begins. If you've got a repeater, you've got a strong local signal transmitted from the repeater, and much weaker signals from the portables. If you're having interference from another site, it's far more likely that it's on the frequency that the repeater receives on, than transmits on - it's going to be far easier to step all over the relatively weak signal from the portables, especially if you've got a nice big aerial up high outside.
So to track it down, try programming one of your radios to listen on the same frequency that the repeater does, on analogue, carrier squelch, so that you hear anything that pops up.
Hytera PD7xx ought to be digital (they can be used for analogue).
That video looks like your repeater is just sending normal beacon bursts.
Wonder if you could play that sample back through your test set, and tune the radio to it?
Not sure what they're doing but I don't think 4G is a goer for a patch that covers from the M8 down to the borders and everything west of Dumfries...
That's DMR. Anyone got shiny new Mototrbo radios recently?
Incidentally I no longer work for a Mototrbo dealer, having packed it in last week to go and deal with blue-light services instead.
It's a nice clean signal, and a .wav file, so maybe I can footer about a bit and run it through DSD and see if I can get anything decoding.
RRS is derived from the ABS ECU if I recall correctly, not the suspension.
Have you tried taking the drag link and track rod off, and seeing if you can move each part by hand to see what the clunk is?
2.5m/l approximately. I wonder if sorting out the big boomy boxes where the cats used to be and sticking a cam that actually has lumps on it will improve matters...
I was at a barbecue yesterday with some other car enthusiast folks, and one of guests mentioned that their Focus TDCi was smoking pretty badly. So of course out came the tools.
Apparently it did have a new turbo a while ago and although it goes okay the exhaust is very smoky. Now one of the things we noticed almost immediately is that coming off boost there's a hell of a flutter from the turbo - I mean real "because racecar" stuff. The other thing was that even at about 2000rpm the soft flexible hose from the compressor to the intercooler had blown up like a beachball!
We're thinking that the first thing to try is having the intercooler off and wash out any accumulated oil and crud - the air filter is pretty oil-contaminated and doesn't look like it's been changed for ages and there was oil lying in the filter-to-compressor pipe, but nothing ridiculous.
Any further thoughts?
If that's the breather it should be stuffed up into the rear wheelarch somewhere out of the way.
I think the bike would do 0-60 in 2.4 seconds - so a bawhair quicker than just throwing it off a cliff.
Yamaha R1. It's probably more powerful than the one in the Range Rover (almost certainly, given the amount of metal-on-metal mayhem from the camshaft and tappets).
Mine's got the centre rattly thing tray for all those odd screws and trim clips. I stuck a couple of bits of sticky velcro above and below it, and stuck the "loop" side of the stick velcro to the back of my old Nook Color (sic) which I installed a patched version of Vanilla Media Player on (adapted to have massive fonts for ease-of-use when I'm driving). It doesn't have navigation stuff but I guess I could pair it with a Bluetooth GPS and install Waze or similar.
Then I modded the stereo so the cassette preamp is bypassed and just used as an aux in.
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10152617004038799&l=05fe65e1cd
No, we were heading north after a daring raid on the United Soviet States of Newcastle to pick a Fisher Fury up at the docks.
Last month I was looking for good big mud tyres, now I'm after a set of Cuthbertson tracks.
... deep enough to pop my driver's side airbag off its seat.
Yup, despite tackling the Torphichen RTV course and a few of the CCV bits, what eventually gave me a real suspension problem was those good quality South Lanarkshire roads.
IIRC Rave says that the Rough Road Signal is generated by the ABS ECU, not the EAS ECU.
Glad to hear you're enjoying your P38 - it's a learning experience, isn't it? :-D