Give me a shout when you're up ;-) Shame it's not next weekend, you could have come along to the rally at Bathgate!

There's a little plastic lever that's called a "cam" on the parts site that wears out and lets go of the little plastic peg on the handle part. They're a couple of quid, and replacing them solves that "not springing back properly" problem too.

@Sloth Sure, why not? PM me and we'll organise getting it across to me.

The air springs are made by Dunlop but come in Britpart boxes. I assume that's because Britpart are prepared to buy them in the sort of quantities in which Dunlop are prepared to sell them.

https://rangerovers.pub/static/rave.zip is by far the most active URL on this whole server...

There isn't a crank speed sensor, but there's a crank position sensor. If that's failed the engine won't run at all.

The diaphragm valve lets air either pass from the compressor to the tank through the dryer, or from the valve gallery through the dryer to the exhaust. That's done so exhausting air dries out the crystals in it. There shouldn't be (much) pressure at the dryer if the tank NRV is healthy. There will be a wee bit because the exhaust valve will shut when the pressure in the dryer drops enough.

You don't have to do anything for the GDPR, because it's a non-profit organisation.

You've got to ask yourself how much you care about the exact mileage on a 20-year-old 200k+ vehicle though ;-) I know mine's about 4000 miles low after I repaired the faulty dashboard.

Yeah, that's weird, that started doing that when I added the LPG section. Let's see what happens if I turn that off...

Edit: ... and now it's back to normal. Hmm.

Boom, done. Suggestions, moderators and category titles please, in PM if you prefer to be discreet ;-)

It's no bother to create a subforum for it. Someone else will have to run it though :-)

Just as an aside, since it's non-commercial it does not need to do anything for GDPR, same as this forum. Just as long as you're using industry best practice to minimise the risk and impact of a data breach, there's not a whole lot you need to do.

Do you want to create a section for LPG here, and migrate everyone across?

It would be good to get a dump of the old lpgforum database so it doesn't get lost forever - there's a lot of good information on there.

That makes me wonder, could you just read in a different key and emulate an LR key? So that way you could use a remote locking fob that's relatively easy to get hold of instead of trying to repair or reprogram LR keys.

I wonder how easy it would be to make a dangly dongle for the RF module that detects incoming pulses, decides if they look like plausible fob signals, and passes them on to the BECM? Probably Marty could wade in on this one, but it shouldn't be much harder than just detecting what looks like valid sync from the the fob.

That's about what I'm getting. I reckon about 240 miles to 80 litres, in "mixed driving" and a bit more if I'm doing a steady motorway drive. If I can do a steady 50mph I can get up around 270...

Another data point - I had mine in at a garage that mostly does heavy stuff but also cars, and although mine failed its MOT on other stuff (little bit of welding) I got told "It's on gas, our tester only does petrol or diesel, it doesn't have a function for gas so we just marked it as ineligible for testing."

I've been wondering if it's been skipping at full lock, but when I jacked it up there I found I couldn't turn the front wheels at all - then it "stepped" round with a bit of a clunk. Also, the front diff has been whiny as hell and I'm wondering if it's being heavily loaded by the VC.

I used to be able to rotate the front wheels a little with steady pressure on the breaker bar, but now it seems to be locked absolutely solid. Wonder if that's what my front diff whine is...? Anyway, there's a guy on eBay selling viscous couplings with the flange on the front, and it looks like they've just been taken off by undoing the six bolts around the outside. Is it really that simple?

Would I be better taking the front propshaft off?

It's just a throttle pot, with an output that goes from 0 to 5V (-ish). It would not be hard to devise a replacement.