Mmmmm, the sweet smell of hot coolant in the HVAC vents.
Am I looking at a leaking heater matrix?? Carpets not wet (there anyway!) yet.
Hi, I bought a genuine undertray for my Thor but I think it’s for a gems as a cooler pipe is in the way. I’ve left it too long to return so wonder if anyone on here would like to buy it. It’s brand new genuine old stock. Part number KRB101040.
Retail is £175 plus vat however I’d be looking for £75 incl UK postage.
Looking for a bit of a pointer in the right direction please….
My 2000 Thor has started running very poor on petrol particularly when cold but also when hot too. It can be almost cutting out when cold and no response to throttle now and then, I think I can hear popping fro exhaust when it’s playing up too.
When hot it’s sounding like it’s misfiring but nanocom says not, it’s running “lumpy”. The car shakes gently.
It runs perfectly on LPG. It also runs perfectly when I reset engine adaptations.
I get p0172 bank 1 mixture adaptation factor few signal too low and p0175 bank 2 as well.
Clearing makes no difference.
Today though resetting adaptations has made no difference….
I’ve changed the MAF for a new genuine Bosch one. Initially I thought it fixed it as it was ok for a while.
I also put a bottle of injector cleaner thru.
It has 2 new coil packs, new leads, new plugs, fresh oil, new air filter,
Where shall I look next? I have nanocom but don’t really understand the numbers!
My MAF was diagnosed as faulty during an LPG tune up… it read 20 and didn’t change.
I have another MAF from my breaker which reads various figures on Nanocom, however my question is what ought it be reading? I want to know if this one is good or bad before laying out on a brand new one.
Vehicle currently pretty lumpy idle on petrol hot or cold which LPG guy said could be dirty injectors.
Guys, does anyone have a good resource (online/home delivery) of engine bay pipes/hoses? I'm talking vacuum hose and coolant hoses (for the non oem routes), and now probably e10 compatible rubber fuel hose.
This is for my RRC which will (eventually) be Thor 4.6 powered.
I've got a serious amount of cleaning to do on my restomod project (RRC). All sorts of parts from engine parts to structural stuff. What do you folks use to clean parts effectively? I've considered a parts washer but cant justify the cost (presuming the cheap Clarke ones are rubbish of course).
And, no, the wife wont permit me using the Dishwasher...
My 2000 has developed a whine which changes pitch with revs. The sound emits from the speakers but does not change volume with the radio. It’s not there all the time but now I’ve heard it I can’t unhear it! With the radio powered off the sound is gone.
Hi all, can anyone recommend towing mirrors that fit well on a p38?
I removed a p38 dashboard yesterday. Surprisingly straightforward and I’d definitely do it again to sort heater matrix/blend valves than try to do it in situ.
How do I tell if I have hard to work with Harmon Kardon amps or not and therefore whether changing the head unit will be easy or not.
Head unit is Alpine XQD101580LNF
Door tweeters day Harmon Kardon and backs of speakers do too.
Cant see anything in drivers door other than the Door Outstation.
There is a sub in the boot but it doesn’t work
Yesterday had to do a 240 round trip to collect a trailer. Just me and the dog, and much of it along the M6 so 60mph most of the time. Got a personal best range of 250 miles out of 71 litres of lpg! This is since I rebuilt my reducer. Previously I was getting 200 miles at best.
Still only 16mpg though, but equivalent of about 30mpg I suppose factoring gas prices in.
Hi all, I now have to slam the top tailgate for it to fully latch. Is there any adjustment or is it a new latch time? I fitted a used replacement about 3 months ago which worked a treat for a while but now does this too.
I’m undertaking a bit of rewriting and retrofitting of various parts such as trailer auxiliary socket and some lighting. I am on the lookout for some plug and socket connectors rated to at least 30A per circuit (rather than the 12A the eBay specials have!). Anyone have any pointers please? Many thanks.
Is anyone on here selling key covers (the bit that goes around the circuit board and holds the blade)? Mine's very tatty now and very hard to get battery out for replacement.
Hi @LPGC, you seem to be the god with LPG conversions (although same question is for anyone who knows LPG well). Mines started to switch over after a longer time than normal. It used to switch within about 2-3 minutes, temp needle just off the cold pin, however it's now at least 8 mins and engine temp needle is just under half way.
It's PRINS if that makes any difference!!
I've had a search for the diagnostic software but drawn a blank.
Thank-you in advance
I've replaced my gaskets twice in 4 years now and noticed them leaking again. Is this normal? Surely not? I've not done that many miles....
Is there a better brand than others for replacements. I'll do them again, but they are a right pain as got LPG injectors over the top of the manifold and tonnes of pipework in the way.
Has anyone removed a p38 body or seen instructions on how to do so? Can’t find it in RAVE and not found much helpful on google…
Still having issues with remote locking.
If it’s not the latches (both front now swapped with good working ones), not the fob batteries, not the RF receiver, what else could it be?
Is there a wiring diagram knocking around? I was a bit disappointed to not find one included in the workshop manual.
Evening all, trying to order some parts and there are 2 options based on vin number. The range is to (T)003K 49770 for early and from (T)003K 49771 for later. How does that translate to a vin number?