My darling 4.6 has started to tap quick loudly, it sounds top end and changes with engine speed. IT’s intermittent but more often than not now. It’s when the engine is at temperature and not cold. It goes away briefly with light throttle and heavy throttle, but not medium throttle and I can hear it until the wind noise overwhelms my hearing!

Is this the dreaded slipping liner??? And is that the end of the engine and heads if so?

I’ve replaced cam followers and cam within the last 3 years.

I use decent oil and change frequently….

Thoughts?

Recently I’ve noticed the gear shift not be in the gear I selected, eg if I pop into neutral from park, it might go to reverse, and if i want first gear low it will show 2. If it reposition a bit the gear selects. Is this likely to be an adjustment or the electronics thing on the side?

Gurus, where’s a convenient place to pick up a reversing light feed near the tailgate? I’ve found the loom coming from lower but all wires are white!

Thanks

Evening all

I’m replacing the main bearing shells on a 3.9 and the centre one has the notch about 2mm out of line with the bearing cap. They are genuine parts. Part is RTC1718.

Any ideas??

A while ago I thought my passenger door lock was flattening the battery as when charger was connected, the motor seemed to run.

Anyway, I’m getting a very odd symptom (odd to me anyway)

So. If I don’t use the car for 4 or more days, battery is so flat doors won’t unlock or any lights show. Will start easily with a jump start.

But, if I lock and unlock the car several times a day over the same period, and NOT start the car, it holds its charge just fine.

I have ruled out battery by replacing it.

I’ve had the antenna Wi-Fi thing fix since owning the car. (5 years+) This is a new issue over last few months.

Any ideas where to check first?

Thanks

Hi all

I bought a new (used) caravan over the weekend and towed it 150 miles home. The car used a whole tank of unleaded to do the round trip (297 miles), sticking to speed limits etc. Is that normal? I've not towed with it far before.

I also found it sluggish on motorway hills (M1 from Bradford to midlands, so not exactly hilly!). Again, is that normal?

I've got a high-torque cam, magnecor leads, new (correct) plugs, new genuine maf, but everything else is standard, and engine runs well normally returning 16-20mpg unladen.

Caravan is 1500kg, twin axle...

Thanks all...

Mmmmm, the sweet smell of hot coolant in the HVAC vents.

Am I looking at a leaking heater matrix?? Carpets not wet (there anyway!) yet.

Hi, I bought a genuine undertray for my Thor but I think it’s for a gems as a cooler pipe is in the way. I’ve left it too long to return so wonder if anyone on here would like to buy it. It’s brand new genuine old stock. Part number KRB101040.

Retail is £175 plus vat however I’d be looking for £75 incl UK postage.

Looking for a bit of a pointer in the right direction please….

My 2000 Thor has started running very poor on petrol particularly when cold but also when hot too. It can be almost cutting out when cold and no response to throttle now and then, I think I can hear popping fro exhaust when it’s playing up too.

When hot it’s sounding like it’s misfiring but nanocom says not, it’s running “lumpy”. The car shakes gently.

It runs perfectly on LPG. It also runs perfectly when I reset engine adaptations.

I get p0172 bank 1 mixture adaptation factor few signal too low and p0175 bank 2 as well.

Clearing makes no difference.

Today though resetting adaptations has made no difference….

I’ve changed the MAF for a new genuine Bosch one. Initially I thought it fixed it as it was ok for a while.

I also put a bottle of injector cleaner thru.

It has 2 new coil packs, new leads, new plugs, fresh oil, new air filter,

Where shall I look next? I have nanocom but don’t really understand the numbers!

My MAF was diagnosed as faulty during an LPG tune up… it read 20 and didn’t change.

I have another MAF from my breaker which reads various figures on Nanocom, however my question is what ought it be reading? I want to know if this one is good or bad before laying out on a brand new one.

Vehicle currently pretty lumpy idle on petrol hot or cold which LPG guy said could be dirty injectors.

Thanks

Guys, does anyone have a good resource (online/home delivery) of engine bay pipes/hoses? I'm talking vacuum hose and coolant hoses (for the non oem routes), and now probably e10 compatible rubber fuel hose.

This is for my RRC which will (eventually) be Thor 4.6 powered.

I've got a serious amount of cleaning to do on my restomod project (RRC). All sorts of parts from engine parts to structural stuff. What do you folks use to clean parts effectively? I've considered a parts washer but cant justify the cost (presuming the cheap Clarke ones are rubbish of course).

And, no, the wife wont permit me using the Dishwasher...

My 2000 has developed a whine which changes pitch with revs. The sound emits from the speakers but does not change volume with the radio. It’s not there all the time but now I’ve heard it I can’t unhear it! With the radio powered off the sound is gone.

Any ideas?

Cheers

Hi all, can anyone recommend towing mirrors that fit well on a p38?

Thanks

I removed a p38 dashboard yesterday. Surprisingly straightforward and I’d definitely do it again to sort heater matrix/blend valves than try to do it in situ.

How do I tell if I have hard to work with Harmon Kardon amps or not and therefore whether changing the head unit will be easy or not.

Head unit is Alpine XQD101580LNF
Door tweeters day Harmon Kardon and backs of speakers do too.
Cant see anything in drivers door other than the Door Outstation.
There is a sub in the boot but it doesn’t work

Thanks

Yesterday had to do a 240 round trip to collect a trailer. Just me and the dog, and much of it along the M6 so 60mph most of the time. Got a personal best range of 250 miles out of 71 litres of lpg! This is since I rebuilt my reducer. Previously I was getting 200 miles at best.

Still only 16mpg though, but equivalent of about 30mpg I suppose factoring gas prices in.

Hi all, I now have to slam the top tailgate for it to fully latch. Is there any adjustment or is it a new latch time? I fitted a used replacement about 3 months ago which worked a treat for a while but now does this too.

Thanks

I’m undertaking a bit of rewriting and retrofitting of various parts such as trailer auxiliary socket and some lighting. I am on the lookout for some plug and socket connectors rated to at least 30A per circuit (rather than the 12A the eBay specials have!). Anyone have any pointers please? Many thanks.

Is anyone on here selling key covers (the bit that goes around the circuit board and holds the blade)? Mine's very tatty now and very hard to get battery out for replacement.