I reckon it's one tap per rev yes.
It’s definitely louder at the bottom, but doesn’t sound like big ends to me…
Maybe I should just ignore it and enjoy the radio???
I’ve been pulling it apart looking for this noise. Cannot find anything that looks amiss. All lifters are firm, plenty of oil everywhere and stethoscope doesn’t reveal tapping in the block (or top really) just sounds like everywhere when it happens.
It’s more frequent now, every journey. Starts soft and gets louder the hotter the engine gets/longer it runs for.
What other symptoms would I have if a liner was slipping? Does it ultimately result in a breakdown?
I have a proper mechanics stethoscope somewhere…
My darling 4.6 has started to tap quick loudly, it sounds top end and changes with engine speed. IT’s intermittent but more often than not now. It’s when the engine is at temperature and not cold. It goes away briefly with light throttle and heavy throttle, but not medium throttle and I can hear it until the wind noise overwhelms my hearing!
Is this the dreaded slipping liner??? And is that the end of the engine and heads if so?
I’ve replaced cam followers and cam within the last 3 years.
I use decent oil and change frequently….
No slack. It’s quite stiff to be honest. Oh well another job next time I’m on my back!
The light shows the gear rather than the selected position
Recently I’ve noticed the gear shift not be in the gear I selected, eg if I pop into neutral from park, it might go to reverse, and if i want first gear low it will show 2. If it reposition a bit the gear selects. Is this likely to be an adjustment or the electronics thing on the side?
Perfect, thanks for that. I’ll hook into that then!
Ah in that case, no it’s not cross bolted.
I nearly used a “spare” p38 4.6 engine instead of rebuilding this one but sold it instead !
How would I identify a cross bolt?
Gurus, where’s a convenient place to pick up a reversing light feed near the tailgate? I’ve found the loom coming from lower but all wires are white!
Turns out (after speaking to LR), that my engine is a cross over between RRC and P38 and therefore has a few oddities, including bearing shells which are 10x the price from prior or subsequent model years. Yay.
They did say just file off the notch though, so I will!
I’m replacing the main bearing shells on a 3.9 and the centre one has the notch about 2mm out of line with the bearing cap. They are genuine parts. Part is RTC1718.
Thanks, that’s a brill document!
BeCM SID is here https://drive.google.com/file/d/1bYljTTLbcRvp6wLJ-3qxhWPEhr4agC-G/view?usp=share_link, page 9 onwards gives a list of everything that will wake the BeCM and gives a step by step diagnosis to battery drain.
I’ve noticed my dash cam is staying active. It’s wired in to the becm output, that normally turns off after a little while of ignition off. It’s clearly staying on now. It 100% used to turn off so this is a new issue. What could keep the becm awake?
I’ll borrow a clamp and test it out, thanks.
A while ago I thought my passenger door lock was flattening the battery as when charger was connected, the motor seemed to run.
Anyway, I’m getting a very odd symptom (odd to me anyway)
So. If I don’t use the car for 4 or more days, battery is so flat doors won’t unlock or any lights show. Will start easily with a jump start.
But, if I lock and unlock the car several times a day over the same period, and NOT start the car, it holds its charge just fine.
I have ruled out battery by replacing it.
I’ve had the antenna Wi-Fi thing fix since owning the car. (5 years+) This is a new issue over last few months.
Any ideas where to check first?
All very interesting. I like the idea of powering an engine with domestic gas and using the “waste” heat to run round the radiators.
I have a cold house, hard to heat with all rooms having 3-4 aspects. Vaulted ceilings throughout. It’s insulated well but obviously not well enough.
Food for thoughts but would probably cost far more than the gas I’d save in the regular boiler in doing so.