I ordered the flexplate (HD) from Ashcroft and I am ordering the rear seal (Corteco) so I can start to prepare for this task.
https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/seal-crankshaft-rear-err2640g-p-3523.html

Perhaps silly question: in RAVE there are two small, they look like plastic, pieces:
https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/seal-rear-main-bearing-aftermarket-lun000010-p-4086.html

As I have never seen the "rear" of the engine opened up, what are those and should I consider for replacement as well?
If yes, OE or aftermarket?
Anything else "in that area" worth bothering replacing, considering the difficulty to access the rear of the engine?
Thanks!

Mine got one "flapping about" as I can't make the forward bolt engage. Does not rattle, so I leave it as is, been already like 5k km.
If you can, wrap them.

One of the cars I've always fancied to have, but I got no time or need for :-)
Guys above have covered all the main stuff: fun & reliability.

As a side idea, there is also its less lucky cousin, the Italian-engined and restyled Fiat 124, and its wild brother the Abarth.
Engines are more powerful and plenty to mod, a bit of shape-change makes the boot a lil larger (and a classical throwback front), and there is no end of of goodies available. The Abarth version also comes with LSD, larger brakes, uprated suspension and exhaust. Sound is pretty raw and nice ...
It is already an "instant classic", as the experiment lasted little (I think only 3-4 years production run), and I am sure it will appreciate more and more in time - it already got a bit dearer in the last couple years, watching prices regularly as I really think is one of the last of its kind we will see, at least from an "Italian" perspective ...

Condensors for late models are unavailable but ...

What would be a "late model"? Mine is a 00 and I had the condenser replaced spring time, my AC guy had no problems to order and secure one. I can ask him what brand it is, he told me but I forgot ...

Honestly, all these years I've done headlinings for a number of cars of different brands, the issue of the color as a "code" never occurred to me. Usually a good upholsterer has a catalog with a variety of samples, just cut a piece - or when you bring the entire thing to the workshop, match as close as possible to the existing one, and off you go!

When I did mine - albeit years ago - I had no issues finding a match, is a pretty standard beige/grey ...

You will have no problems!

Wow thanks for the novel idea, I actually never thought of that! Certainly would be less demanding in terms of stuff to unbolt and tons of weight to move to do it this way!
And yes, I would only do the seal (to stop leaking all over) and risking the flexplate leaving me stranded.
The gbox ain't bad, a bit of a "bump" in between 1-2 and 2-3 but I think is normal for the mileage and use, and the ta-ta-ta of the chain is heard only when you really floor it brutally, thing I very seldom do.

I will get organized and try to do it this way :-)
I could even have the right access to deal with the LPG injectors' replacement ... thing for another topic as well!

I use this to address an issue that might end up in a similar question ... the strange noise coming from the rear of the engine around the flywheel area, I fear is the flexplate breaking apart.
I wanted to do this together with the gearbox and transfer rebuild, but I fear I will not have that luxury, for time and budgetary reasons. But I would not like to remain stranded in the upcoming holidays on a side of the road with the family (that would be grounds for immediate divorce!).
I am thinking to order a HD flexplate from Ashcroft, and do only the "down and up" which is a hassle, but I could also address the rear crankshaft seal leaking ... anyone with experience in these works so far?

Well ... all is well if it ends well!!
You will keep this in the list/bin (ever growing) of parts that you might, or might not need ...
It is very bad to be the owner and "re-maker" of a car ... if you were just a simple user, these things would not be an issue :-)

Ahi Ahi ... now I remember the upper tailgate glass has the electricals for the demist.
Don't go too hard on those or it might lose the capability to demist/defog the window - try it.
Brake cleaner is very aggressive on plastics/rubbers on the edges, use a degreaser or window cleaner instead. Less powerful, but less damaging ..

Original "dark" windows have something embedded in the glass. If it peels off, it must be film.
The "halos" or "bubbles" around the dots on the edges - and in the lettering - are the giveaway.
If you are happy with it, and does not look too shabby, I'd keep it.

If you want to take it off, get a hair dryer or a heat gun (careful!) and slowly and evenly pull it off after warming up the glass, to help dissolve the glue. Pull slowly is the trick. You can use glass cleaner for any glue residue.

Yes, you do not have adjustment for the latch on the tailgate itself if I remember tight, they only screw to the tailgate.
As Richard says, if you adjust the striker you can get it to latch better. Remember this also "moves" where the tailgate will sit once latched, this means more "in" or "out" of the car.
It can be difficult to get it right (I still have not done properly mine), I am using the tail lights as reference, but I still can't get it right ...

Off the top of my head, one or both microswitches at the side of the bottom tailgate, or the central motor that latches the top one, are sending off a wrong signal.
You make sure they are properly latched - spray with oil and don't need to slam brutally, just make sure they click close
You can also click them all closed manually with a screwdriver, drive off (with the tailgates open but "locked") and see if after you start to move get the dreadful beep.
If does not work, time to get to check electrical connections ...

Harv, this is a very interesting solution! Had I see it earlier, in my dreadful "hot engine" years, I would have run to it immediately. Now I am fine (see more later), but I will nevertheless keep this in mind when the time comes. I've got two friends with GEMS which I am sure will be interested as well, once your testing results prove satisfactory ...

I'm always wary when someone decides they know better than the man that designed it in the first place.
Well, in general - and in theory - I do agree wholehearted with you.
However, the more in the years I tinker with the cars, and the more I read and apply, assemble and disassemble, I reckon sometimes technical solutions obey more to a compromise (technical, budgetary, legislative, or else) than a true "optimal" solution. Me - actually, "we" - as final-end users, might choose not to be constrained by these parameters, to the limits of the reasonable obviously.
Personally, I have thus become wary of the "why" a certain solution was implemented in the first place - not because I think I know better, but simply because by analyzing, if there was a compromise (e.g. usually is choice of material, or position or shape), you can overcome shortcoming in that compromise and have a better, "improved" solution.
No need to make this post longer, but there are many proven 'workarounds' that make living with a(n) (older) vehicle a better proposition. We need to keep in mind the factory designs were also built around a finite shelf or work life, and I may suggest we are in some cases, way past that :-)

Agreed, there is a suitable place to fit a thermostat that is a throwback to the Classic engine but why did the designers decide not to fit it there and go for the remote one?
I actually think the P38 is one of the very first cars where the thermostat is not really "just" a thermostat, but instead a diverter (pass me the term) of coolant to allow as Pete says above, faster warmth to the interior and a 'variable' flow until the thermostat itself is fully open. To a certain degree, pretty clever. Many cars have a similar design nowadays.
I favor the "older" design, but I am old myself ....

I've monitored the temperatures on mine with the Nanocom and never seen it vary by more than 4 degrees C under any circumstances, including sitting (at length) in traffic with an ambient of 40 degrees
After my many repairs and fixes to the cooling system, now I got a situation as you describe. I am usually on 84-86 on traffic with peaks of 90, whereas when the rad was partially block it would jump from 96 to 110 in city driving.
A good functioning cooling system should not require strange changes, however an in-line simple thermostat is not a bad idea.

I also support a switch to activate the AC fans at will, due to the very high underbonnet temps ...

Agree with Richard above, up to 20A you will be fine, I am running from there stuff and no issues.

I use Mobile 320 and it comes at a reasonable balance between price and performance.
Shop around, any III will do so you are not constrained by fancy hi-tech requirements....

Thanks Richard, that clears it up. When I asked my friend that likes to tinker with audio systems, and I mentioned the door had a 3 way speaker system (without knowing the bass and mid in parallel), he went into crazy research mode ... lol

Will try to get some crossovers and be done with the damn thing, again door cards off is becoming a hassle.
Actually I got the passenger window mechanism which starts to groan, so all is a new opporunity!

Yeah, agree, better not mess around with it anymore!
There will be some other problem area to deal with in time .... :-)

Rather that open a new topic, since we are into this, I will - kindly - hijack a little this one.

I got the Hi-line system, no DSP but just the amps in the doors and sub in the rear.
Years ago, as the CD changer had developed a lot of 'jumping', I took the headunit out and replaced it with a Pioneer DEH-X3500UI (should have gone for the BT version, but back then I wanted to piggyback an AVIC to the Pioneer, thing I never did afterwards), and using the info from "the other website" I fitted some attenuators.
After years of use, they are starting to crap out and is time for a new solution, or to fix them up, but my friend who did that no longer has the chance to assist in this.

Richard here https://rangerovers.pub/topic/3322-hi-i-m-new?page=1#pid40824 mentions fit crossovers as an option, but not knowing the specs of the original speakers, how to know which frequencies to cut at?
Anyone that has tried this solution and was successful?

Not bad!
But I see no mention of the heavy toll it extracts to command that majestic ship onto the storms of the everyday life ...
Was it a purposeful instruction to the program "not to" or it was just decided to praise its virtues and forget its curses?
:-)

Nigel, you sure is that? The large corrugated rubber is only for air, the small one takes condensed water in the bottom of the heater, and is not shown. You got to see it ...

Roman, taping the hole might be a bad idea lol
Good to know I am not the only one with misaligned drains on the P38.