Add another that leaves the Nano always plugged on its end to the OBD cable.
The little spark must be because the body of the Nano is metal and thus making as short?
Anyway, I made this mistake couple times and since then, never again :-)
Uhm ... it does not 'object' in the same manner probably because the gearbox is linked by wire and not cables, like in my woman's CT200h. It nevertheless produces an audible 'tic' when it gets in and out of P, and under load the 'tic' is louder.
I use it with the same caution as with a traditional auto gearbox ... you never know, and this one must be more expensive to fix - and no Ashcroft around! 🤣
I did this, but I do not recall any trouble ... I think the motors are "dumb" and do not need exact repositioning
That would have been a good idea, it seem fuseboxes as they become more expensive or unavailable they will become more scarce in the breaker market, and from what I hear of people who have repaired them, it is worth the try if not completely burnt.
That is an interesting story indeed ... now imagine how to explain this to a "normal" customer in our "modern", click-away tik-toked world.
A car to be thrown away for the want of a fuse connection ... a normal service/workshop would have gone crazy on this, because you need to be persistent and knowledgeable on what you are dealing with ... having the 'illuminated' mind to go pursuing alternatives - and have other replacement parts ready at hand ... truly a rare feat nowadays!
Yeah Harv, exactly that. Well, yes you are right in the Greta sense, stuff for environmental reasons is always good to be in its place. But in some engines is beneficial to run a separate circuit for this, that is why I was wondering. In some others does not seem to be the case ... I remember when I took the pipe off in my old Toyota, engine was running rougher, which meant it was probably designed as a 'closed circuit' from the start ...
Yes, a good shop where they sell body parts (sounds funny lol) might have that stuff.
Me, I went crazy when I had my seats' bases "swapped" ... I had a problem and could not dedicate to it, so I gave it to a friend who upholsters stuff for a living. He made me the favor ... but to "save effort" he swapped the bases totally, and therefore when I tried to mount my driver's seat I discovered the connectors were not matching ... I was going to kill him!
But he re-made the work and I that is how I learned of the difference ... 😉
Next in the list of jobs I got spark plugs, and was thinking to clean the MAF and throttle body.
While I am at it, might want to get rid of the oil vapor recirculation on the intake. Does it make sense?
Any options available out there, or just adapt something from some other engine?
Good job!!!
Yes, different seat options have different connectors ... if you have outstation you have the full list: electrical, memory.
The fir tree fasteners, they disintegrate on sight ... the long ones, I got them from here:
https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/clip-seat-base-trim-beige-large-britpart-awr2539smk-p-32993.html
they fit perfectly on the front "wing" of the seat
the rear ones for the stupid covers, they are not available, I have recovered several broken, and plan to just use the heads to "cover the holes" and just fix the angle covers using this type of product
https://www.rgjytech.com/rgt-bp-butyl-rubber-putty/
used in the past in several other occasions and it works wonders
I second Richard straight.
I had the same puzzling issue years ago, until I made a longer pipe/hose from the overflow to a small bottle wedged down there by the firewall.
Some testing showed my RV8 does not "like" coolant to be at its cold level mark, it will sooner or later spit it out.
Usually on short journeys, while on long, even at high speed and loaded, where I would expect higher "drinking", it doesn't.
I removed the contraption, and I now fill the reservoir 2/3 of the mark. I haven't had a overflow spill since ... at least 20k km so far.
Every few days, I pour a small quantity when level reaches half of the reservoir, to 2/3 as said. No overheating, not an issue. And heater works and pumps heat in abundance. I learned to live with this 'quirkiness' ...
Folding mirrors, yes, a definite want for me too.
Let's talk this ... was the D2 produced with folding mirrors? Any option to "borrow" that from another car?
From experience, it needs a wing mirror with the same - or adaptable - base, that attaches to the car door ...
I just said it is annoying. The reactions of the engine starting, or stopping, are not always when you need, or expect to.
The hybrid does it as well (my woman's CT200h is a good example), but less bothering as the electric motor does something in the meantime ...
I appreciate any effort to improve our condition on this little rock, but so far over the last years ideas seem to have been not the keenest ... for example, I've seen little effort to improve "traffic flow" (smart traffic lights for example, under/over passes for pedestrians instead of crossings, and so on) instead of forcing manufactures to come up with ideas to reduce its impact.
The start-stop is a very very annoying feature. For old school ppl like us, gets really hard to get used to.
I put it in the category of those things manufacturers "had" to do just to appease idiotic "greenish" guidelines.
No really a significant contribution in fighting emissions, especially if you count the increased cost and complexity of the starter-alternator systems (and batteries as well).
On my sister's 208, she specifically asked the dealer to disable it, thing that they did by software.
On my dad's 2008 you got to remember it do set it off every time ....
These ideas are like these so-called "mild hybrids", a palliative ...
Uhm ... I have more of a very "long travel" brake actuation, so I might look into some air in the system first, that it is cheaper also 😀
Good question - I also wonder!
According to my log, mine was replaced when I got the car, around 46K km ago. I do wonder if is time ...
I honestly don't want all that "assistance" mumbo-jumbo in my drive. Are nice features, but they make you lazy, cumbersome and bother. Yeah I know, you can turn them off, but why bother having them at all then?
When I drive, I want to drive - and considering a (near?) future in which "driving" will be a luxury reserved for a racetrack or offroad (illegally, or course!).
I love cruise control though, I despise autowipers, I don't mind autolights (they leave me indifferent), here in Bulgaria DRLs or equivalent are compulsory so is lights on, or lights on, that is why I set them up in the BeCM.
I longed for years to have a nice big display, now I appreciate the clean dash design without distractions. When I am in a hurry I use the phone, when on a trip a Garmin sat-nav like Richard, which has the plus it's movable around vehicles and easily upgradeable.
HeVAC in spite of its faults it has a simple layout and a good graphic interface, I would not say it needs a 'screen'.
There are only a couple things I really miss on my P38:
Interesting, Pete. Here probably is option 2), both my car and the donor parts were unused for a good 3 years, and the spare were indeed in a more damp place. Well ... now I learned besides the mechanical, also the radio needs to work!
Richard (once again) you nailed in the head, it was exactly that. For now I mounted the one that looked more 'alive', and closed everything as I have my parents over next week on visit and it would really pain me to show ONCE MORE AGAIN the car disassembled ... they will not notice a loss of sound in one rear door 😆
I will look into replacement in a later time, when guests are gone!
I have a friend has an old man which works to round up his pension fixing old audio stuff (cassette tapes machines, old amps, speakers, and the like). I have seen some repairs on a sub and a woofer, both "proprietary" designs of German youngtimer cars, whose owners did not want to lose originality, and in both cases the results were satisfactory for a little change. Will pass by and drop the speakers to see if he wants to play ...
Now the next following question would be ... how do you "unfreeze" it? 🙃
Re-cone it would be the simplest answer I can come up with ...
I had never actually given any consideration to how the gearbox "P" works so I also haven't given any consideration about how the vehicle was being held. Silly really, but I suppose that it is a habit going back nearly thirty years !!!
No fault - most people if not all would assume the "P" is just another "gear", like in a manual. Well ... is not 😀
I had not thought about the speaker "seized" ... it sounds extremely funny but hey everthyng can happen. Now that I think, the speakers I pulled from the bin have not been used in a while, so it could be indeed.
Wiring became clearer, especially after I noticed last night I was linking at the wrong page ... I got a Highline system. I think I will chase the "frozen" speaker theory :-)