rangerovers.pub
The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
Member
offline
643 posts

I also agree on paper. Mine had a 'sports' filter installed and the mesh collapsed and I was lucky it did not disintegrated before I saw it.
I also noticed the OE filter, the paper is slightly oily to the touch, whereas some aftermarket ones are just dry paper. Do not know if is very good thing or not, but for the price difference ...

Yes, Richard is spot on I did replaced mine like this, enough with EAS on high on level ground.
To replug the connector was a hassle, I failed to do it, luckily I had a friend who is a mechanic nearby who saw my pain and came to help. I was struggling for like 12 minutes he did it in like in 12 seconds ... darn

Great!! Enjoy!!
Also, do not be afraid to use the selector to go up an down the gears, at least me I noticed the vehicle responds much better when I 'lock' a specific gear in some situations, instead of letting the gearbox wonder about what to do.

The irritating trembling is back, probably it never left, but in some specific circumstances. I will dig in the topics and get back.

One to go, more to come! :-)

Me, after an irritating trembling, I found time to log the nano and verify what it is happening (I am using the car little lately for a number of reasons). Since it was pointing "multiple misfires" in cyl7, I've replaced the spark plugs (Bosch with 36k km) and since then the issue is gone. Chapeau!
Now it remained some other stuff, but I will post it separately ...

Great find!
I fear also the bonnet lettering has been (horribly) updated to the "recent" models. Luckily the original is still available, albeit expensive.
The holes in the wings are a repair than can be made, any good metalworker can restore them.
Good luck to bring a rare car to life!

Glad Marty answered, I was looking for a console which I've replaced to look at it. The switches look "plastic welded" to the console itself, and a small board attached to another. Can't you find the entire console to replace, wouldn't it be easier?

Even though the diagonal would allow, I think the height of .5m will make it difficult to enter fully.
If is a small distance, you could go with the tailgate(s) open, done this couple times.
When I took a bonnet for repaint (mine was not salvageable) I had to borrow a friend's van, no way it would fit in.

Been a while ... as mentioned elsewhere, sometime in the near future the lady will have to go ... but way before that, I've got stuff that I will really not use/mount, or it will not add value when the time to sell comes.
If any of you guys want anything, chime in! I will dig in my records and see how much these things costed me, I do not want to speculate, if I can recover the expense I'd be happy.

All items are in near perfect or vgc, I struggled to get the best stuff I could find in the years of my lovely dreamy P38 adventure:

  • set of pic nic tables for the front seats, Lightstone, no cracks or other damage (*)
  • steering wheel, Lightstone/wood, control buttons in vgc and all labels visible
  • glovebox in leather (might have been some autobiography thing), Lightstone, complete
  • under-steering wheel cover in leather (again, autobiography thing?), Lightstone, got the screwcaps as well
  • full set of mats (not the rubber ones), original, Lightstone
  • chrome gear knob selector surround
  • Gear Knob Selector in wood, I actually got 2, one OE very good, one made with some wood finish non OE but vg
  • set roof rails (longitudinal ones), complete with cross bars and all the rubber "feet" intact (*)
  • set of headlights RHD in vgc (*)
  • security case that goes into the boot on the right-side (*)

Items with (*) I actually got them from Phil which many of you know from here, his things are top condition always!
I will add more stuff as I unearth it from the mess I've got in the garage. To avoid overload the forum, I will send photos on request. Can ship to most places, I got some preferential rates to the Island if case comes.
Thanks!

Agree with Richard about the o-rings, when my time came I used only original ones. Too much hassle to risk ...

Never a dull moment, it seems!
Richard today I had an item drop on the passenger side ("my" passenger side lol) and while I was fishing it out I noticed the very limited area between the seat and the BeCM ... how did you manage? Or is it b/c yours got no elec/mem seats?

Bring this up to ask if there is the chance to find one of the RF filters laying around somewhere in Marty's basement? :-)
Got a friend that after I commented on mine would like to install one on his '99 DSE. Any chance?

Wow that sub idea is slick! Saves space and tidies up the entire setup! Me like! Compliments!

Me I've done nothing lately ... lingering towards the inevitable, replace spark plugs, try another MAF as it is intermittely cutting out, replace the LPG injectors and recalibrate the system, and take out the valve head covers and address the oil leaks in there.
Other than that, I made almost 1000 km during the festivities and the machine held up to the job admirabily, except the bothering intermittent cutting out referenced above. Great car, will miss it as this year I move to another job which will need me more long distance travel, hence something faster and more economical ... oh well

Happy new year to all! More kilometers and less troubles, more smiles and less disappointments!

What do people do that live in places where this sort of temperature is common so they can still see where they are going?

I have been living with this problem on my 20 years in Bulgaria, where this is a common issue. I've had over a myriad of cars here, and the result is always the same.
If you have a heated screen, it helps keeping the surface "warm", and as also helps a lot of heat/demist vents, but it does not prevent the build-up on the blades.
If you are old-fashioned like me and like the "metal structure" blades, it is even worse, the snow and ice piles up and effectively blocks the blade from touching the glass because the metal structure freezes ... for that only option is to switch to these modern "frame-less" blades. This diminishes the problem.
Heated nozzles do not help, as they only assist in the cleaning of the windshield, not in the removal of muck. However, in my Jimny aeons ago I had my nozzles replaced with "spray-mist" types, and these were great as the anticing solution was "diluting" the build up on the blades. Obviously, the consumption of liquid was staggering.
By the way, no less than -20 concentrate. Anything else will not cut it, and it leaves streaks/marks in the glass as it "freezes" itself. A nightmare if you are not ready for it.
Sometimes, in extreme cases I even do something that I dread, this is come up closer to a TIR (I think in the island you guys call it HGV, in the rest of the world, a truck lol) and be invested by a wave of the roadspray from the trailer. While negative to the bodywork, the slush thrown mixes up and helps clean the build up, as it is all mixed with the salt from the road ... awful.
Only solution: stop, get down, manually unclog the blades, then keep going again until the next time. Terrible, but what to do. I came to hate the white shit, sometimes really want to migrate to a warmer climate where you just melt on the sun...

My worse ever was with my Wrangler, where in addition to all the effects above the piss poor heating was making all the build up remain stuck to the glass, and after a while the blades were not only frozen and blocked with muck, but also unable to swipe in a proper arc ... I came to really hate traveling in winter with it.
That's where I came across these 'heating stripes' for the windscreen, but thankfully I thought better and sold the thing.

Great milestone! Bravo to Richard for keep high the flag of the most unreliable Range Rover ever :-)

Add another that leaves the Nano always plugged on its end to the OBD cable.
The little spark must be because the body of the Nano is metal and thus making as short?
Anyway, I made this mistake couple times and since then, never again :-)

Uhm ... it does not 'object' in the same manner probably because the gearbox is linked by wire and not cables, like in my woman's CT200h. It nevertheless produces an audible 'tic' when it gets in and out of P, and under load the 'tic' is louder.
I use it with the same caution as with a traditional auto gearbox ... you never know, and this one must be more expensive to fix - and no Ashcroft around! 🤣

I did this, but I do not recall any trouble ... I think the motors are "dumb" and do not need exact repositioning

That would have been a good idea, it seem fuseboxes as they become more expensive or unavailable they will become more scarce in the breaker market, and from what I hear of people who have repaired them, it is worth the try if not completely burnt.

That is an interesting story indeed ... now imagine how to explain this to a "normal" customer in our "modern", click-away tik-toked world.
A car to be thrown away for the want of a fuse connection ... a normal service/workshop would have gone crazy on this, because you need to be persistent and knowledgeable on what you are dealing with ... having the 'illuminated' mind to go pursuing alternatives - and have other replacement parts ready at hand ... truly a rare feat nowadays!