Nigel, you sure is that? The large corrugated rubber is only for air, the small one takes condensed water in the bottom of the heater, and is not shown. You got to see it ...
Roman, taping the hole might be a bad idea lol
Good to know I am not the only one with misaligned drains on the P38.
Let us never lose the funny side of it all ... even ironically, as you say.
As time passes, more and more seems to be needed! :-)
Interesting indeed!
I guess it also counts the "time" spend wading/passing through.
I had once to cross a flooded road with my Classic (sigh), and it went up mid-doors, felt it "lighten" but I made it through those perhaps 20-30m.
No water came in. Perhaps lingering for more time would have been problematic ...
To be honest, the journey back was also expensive because my mate had borrowed a ML500 W164 and we took a route through some more 'deserted' roads ... and we could not resist open and let the V8s rip :-)
No way I can keep up close with it (almost 100hp more, and extra gear, and longer ratios better matched), but I was never more than a few dozen meters away, surprisingly. Up to 140/150 at least, after that I started to struggle to I pull back.
Kudos to the P38, always holds its own :-)
Finally I took on replacing the LPG reducer, which was long overdue, and purchased months ago.
Great moment also to replace the hoses between reducer and tidy up the area - installer put two "T" in the engine to heater matrix and return hoses, whereas I was planning to put the LPG in-line with the heater (engine>LPG>heater and not disturb the return hose), as I think is the norm when you want to do it like it should ....
All was going well until I realized I did not do my homework proper and the pipes on the heater are 21 or 22 mm whereas the hose I bought was 19 (I measured with the caliper only on the engine side, did not imagine ...).
As I obviously found out too late to run back to the shop, also because I stupidly went over to a friend 25km away from home to spend some time there and do the job there while we beer and chat, I had to return to high octane "benziiin" ...
Was an expensive journey.
Tomorrow I will go again to the shop to get some size of 21 or 22 hose, and change one of the "L-angle" joints from 19-16 as I had purchased today. As I have no time to secure quickly a new return hose, I will ask for a 22-19 reducer as well, until I get the proper hose. I wanted to reduce the number of joints, but will have to be in two phases.
Will bring some pictures with the next update ...
They are similar in texture, but the sizes are different. If I interpret correctly the above, the one from the drain is tiny, must be around 10mm diameter, and is a "flexible joint" between the heater box and the pipe that goes through the floor of the car to the underside.
I have also failed to find it in the parts' catalog, seems they had "forgotten" it :-)
Nigel, this thing must be ridiculously cheap if you go to a breaker ... I cant imagine they will want high sums ... if they even have it, this is the typical type of thing no one cares about ...
Makes you wonder what were they thinking, eh? :-)
Interesting. Mine always did that (and also "slower" intermittent when stopped), I thought it was a normal feature, did not know it was programmable.
All in all, one area of the P38 it can't be questioned. I would love to have a 'drip wipe' a few secs after the last input (wife's Lexus has that and is a neat courtesy), but I can also do a one-wipe once more, that is.
Anything is better than the dreadful modern autowiper sensors ...
Now, if I can only could get my headlight wipers to work regurlarly ... they do it, but randomly :-(
You are correct, the technical theory is there.
But for one in a million chance to find yourself in a sufficiently high flooded place, you got the all in all chances of being hassled by the stupid one-way valve...
I've been to the sills in water, and no issues. Higher than that, I would strongly try to avoid ... remember the BeCM sits lower than where the drains from the heater box start!!! :-)
A page ago I mentioned while replacing the oil in the diffs, the rear one came quote more "brownish" than the front one.
I was wondering if it was related to the towing life my beast is forced to.
Last week, a friend bought his dream 4x4, a YJ Wangler with the 4.0 engine, and was asking to check what oils to buy.
Looking at the specs, Jeep lists 80W-90 for the diffs, but "75w-140 recommended in rear differentials for warm weather towing applications".
Now, you might want to dismiss this as "nah it is a Jeep thing", but I thing it does make a bit of sense.
Did not find any similar reference to this in Land Rover literature, but going around other info from the other side of the pond, using 75W-140 for those who regularly tow 'heavy' is quite a normal thing.
I even found some info (but only on forums so I need to confirm) newer API standard is moving from 75W-90 to 75W-110 ....
It all makes sense to me, but on the other hand I have never read what temps does the diff oil get at, let us say hi-highway speed - at least 130/135kph, I seldom push past that, although I believe the beast could take it.
Just off-topic, reading the posts as they go along it becomes hilarious.
Make sure you always get the balls lubricated! :-)
Re-post from another thread (sorry, did not see this one in time)
About the A/C drains, I've found while putting back together the interior, something in between my heater box and the floor of the car has "moved out of alignment", and the rubber connector between the box and the floor makes a bit of a 'kink', reducing a bit the available space for condensation to flow away from the box. I tried and tried and tried to put them in line but was impossible, the heater box is tight against its fixings and the floor hole ... well you can't move it :-)
Well, I know it and if I see an occasional drop or two of water overflowing, I live with it.
You may want to check the alignment on yours, before getting worried! :-)
You can easily live without the stupid "valves" on the ends of the discharge pipes. I've removed them years ago and never had an issue. I also got rid of the ones in the sunroof drains, another point of trouble worth checking if you haven't done so in a long time.
About the A/C drains, I've found while putting back together the interior, something in between my heater box and the floor of the car has "moved out of alignment", and the rubber connector between the box and the floor makes a bit of a 'kink', reducing a bit the available space for condensation to flow away from the box. I tried and tried and tried to put them in line but was impossible, the heater box is tight against its fixings and the floor hole ... well you can't move it :-)
Well, I know it and if I see an occasional drop or two of water overflowing, I live with it.
You may want to check the alignment on yours, before getting worried! :-)
Presumably the copper crush washer is for the steel sump & aluminium one for the aluminium sump?
I think this is correct assumption, because my mates' GEMSs :-) have copper ones and my Thor has a alu one.
Obviously by the time we started taken care of these, many oil changes have gone by, but I think previous hands have certainly neglected that little aspect ....
If you cannot change the speed of the "interval" between the intermittency, then you got an issue on the switch on the lever, or stork as you call it :-)
This assuming the other speeds (fast wipe) are working, then the relay should be fine (without that would not work at all).
You can remove the shrouds (they are a pig to refit) and clean up the electrics on the stork, I do not recall how easy is to take it apart (I had to do the left one years ago it was fairly easy) and clean up the contacts, otherwise I would try another stork from a breaker, is an easy replacement and I do not think very expensive.
Bit of trivia, very few cars have a variable speed setting for the intermittent wipers, read somewhere it was because of a patent issue, so most automakers looked for other options (before the dreadful sensor-driven auto wipers). Pity because is a great feature to have, very useful.
Finally I gave the lady a long overdue service ...
With the car in the lift you can hear a kind of flapping/slapping noise in the torque converter area, which I guess must be the flexplate starting to complain ... I hope it decides to disintegrate close to home and not on the summer holidays!
Next: PAS fluid, which I've replaced partially last month but keeps coming out very brownish, and for now I will take it easy and try to only fix the music, and other minor items ...
Quite fine with the Jeep story, lol!
Yes, you def should have not scrapped the earlier ML if it was a runner ... I have made this mistake (more than) once, and I now have become very wary of getting rid of something functioning "before" I get rid of something "non functioning" ....
Congrats on the 55! I got a friend who has one (his is a W163, in that model the 5.5 powerplant is actually an AMG build) and he is enthusiastic ... he is very jealous of it but he is a P38 fan (had a DSE years ago), so sooner or later will convince his to trade rides for comparison.
Is actually an interesting "wagon", but depending on its condition (and model, if W163 or W164) there can be a host of issues that can - going back to the "pub" - wish it was a Range Rover, even a P38 :-)
If you decide to part with it, and if it is an W163 with the full package, drop me a line and I will inquiry :-)
This is because someone in Solihull must have said "we will (out)sale all other 4x4s in the world, so let us make it easy for them to maintain over time" ... lol
all is well when it ends well !
all is well when it ends well !