I don't want to rain on your (or anyone else's) parade, but while this fantasizing is enjoyable, simply put, the P38 is the black sheep of the entire Land Rover catalogue and is born and dies as it is. No way to easily get around it.
I am "lucky" to live in a place where cutting and chopping is still a fairly affordable exercise, and I have seen all P38s projects "fail" one way sooner or later. Engine yes, I have seen later 3 liter BMW lumps no problem, but the hassles are in the transmission, and the project(s) are always showing their shortcomings.
First and foremost, we got the driveline on the wrong side, this means we cannot use anything from later cars - from the L322 onwards, the rear driveshaft and diff are where they are supposed to be, i.e. in the center. Ours is off-set to the left.
How would you match that? I had a friend attempting to overcome the issue by using a different fuel tank, move the entire drive to the center, and use a Patrol axle, but you need to chop the entire back lower body to fit it. He abandoned the idea.
I need to go back to my old correspondence, but I've exchanged a number of emails with David (Ashcroft) addressing the issue. There is no solution, plain and simple, except to stick with the ZF and hope it survives.
Engine wise, I had a 4.2V8 Audi lump from my donor S6 years ago, but there is not way to fit it. The Audi powerplant is low and wide, as it fits ahead of the axle, whereas the P38 has a fairly short and narrow engine bay, in spite of the car dimensions. A narrow powerplant like a BMW could fit, but measurements of the M60/M62 engine did not give me full confidence, as our axle has a fair amount of travel. A shop that specializes in protos and other crazy projects suggested go dry sump, but ... ultimately I thought to remove the RV8 from my donor P38 and use it as a test mule, but I do not think I will be able to get around it soon - if I take it to them, they are huge fans of the Merc M113, which is a fantastic powerplant and fairy reliable, and they could try to fit it, but the bill runs by the thousands ....
Also, I would stay away from the Vanos engines, they always (always) fail, no sense to put a troubled powerplant. And as the RV8 gives pain with its blocks, sleeves, and overheating, the M62 engine has its Nikasil/Alusil deterioration, the Vanos endless problems, among others.
Yes, it's got plenty horses to start with, but ....
And this without getting into the electronics hassles, ECM, BeCM, etc.
A friend is trying to rebuild his 4.6 trying to find components from other engines to make some Frankenstein with at least 4.8/4.9 liters, and hoping for more power. So far he's been at it for months, with no tangible result to be seen.
I got so depressed over the subject over the years that sometimes I want to get rid of it and just get a vehicle with a proper engine, but then every time I drive it I still like it and cannot feel the same emotion on another car....
Honestly, I think the best is to bite the bullet and make the RV8 reliable by having a verified block, fitting top hats, a performance cam of some kind, some proper work done on the heads, and perhaps have Mark Adams tune it.
I think this would provide sufficient confidence in the engine itself, perhaps aim at a 260/280hp (which I believe is the upper limit the Thor manifolds support) with a beefier midrange, and continue to use the rest of the vehicle as (poorly) designed without spending endless time trying to address all the other issues ....
Sorry
I don't know the dimensions of a P38 petrol tank so can't advise what LPG tank(s) you could replace the petrol tank with if you wanted to run monofuel LPG.
Today I needed some stuff and was in the right place, so I took off the petrol tank from my "spare donor" P38, along with its cradle, and will take some measurements and see what can be done.
Since the tank has a stepped shape, with two different heights, I can see right away the pump will not be able to be reused, as it is in the larger area. Not a big deal, this opens up to lots of variants.
Not sure how the sender will work though ...
If i remember right engine computer excludes O2 sensors in certain circumstances, such as cold start, wot, etc.
In your case, it depends on what "failure" is detected (i.e. slow response, open or short circuit. etc.).
Me, after playing and spending a lot of money on "universal" sensors, "adaptable" sensors and the such, buy only OEM.
Thanks for chiming in, Simon! Very useful information. Obviously your figures are helped by having an efficient engine design, as oppose to our venerable (and antediluvian) RV8 :-)
My tank is indeed 720x270, back then when I had a shop with the colleague we would 'tweak' the tanks to allow a few % more refill - with the obvious safety factor diminished - but this replacement I had to do it through "official installer" and we would not bulge to pass the nominal 80%. Also, here we do not have such tanks (95L), max capacity for 720x270 is 84/89L. Pity.
Good idea on the quick fitting connectors, but when I do long travels the boot of the P38 gets easily crowded, so I cannot really think in advance if I will have space for another tank, plus the idea to start drilling again boot and carpets to have another hassle in the form of a heavy ass removable piece of kit is dreadful. I am in a "lazy" phase of life :-(
Hence I was thinking to use instead the near useless fuel tank ...
That is one of the reasons ... traveling cross-country some places are best to avoid if possible, LPG wise.
The tank you mentioned looks like what I am talking about, but I doubt no-one ever made something like this for the black sheep the P38 ... I guess I will drop the tank on my donor rangie and play around.
Will update when the time comes.
I cannot use the boot, otherwise a "fit and remove" cylinder tank would be simple choice. If I had thought of it earlier, when I had to replace mine I could have made some hack and fit a larger one, or two cylinder ones like the mod that was advertised time ago by RPi http://www.v8engines.com/faq-lpg-Gems-twin-tanks.htm
Next time ... for now will consider something in place of the petrol tank. Thanks!
Have an interesting question ... have a tank like Richard (80lt, max fill 67/69lt), and my average runs are in the range you guys described. My best long distance "quiet" running was around 370/380km (230/236mi) on hwy ~120km/h (75mph) with my old and crappy Falken ATs. On a faster pace, say 80/85mph it drops to around 300/320km (185/200mi).
This said, I've been toying with the idea to increase range, for a number of reasons not worth bothering you guys with right now.
As I got a 2yo bottle I'd rather not mess around with the spare tire well and start hacking metal away at this moment, but I am wondering what would be a good choice. I see the underside offers almost no space where to put anything, unlike older LRs.
What about to drop the fuel tank and find or make a smaller one (say max 20lt), reusing its fuel pump and level meter, and use the remaining space to fit whatever can be fit (tube type or toroidal). I've seen this mod in small 4wd like Suzukis and Ferozas and it seems to work, anyone has even ventured or seen that on a P38?
Finally I got around it to connect some charging/USB ports fitted in the rear ashtray, bringing my car to the 21st century :-)
Also needed since I deleted the front ashtray, where I keep the Scangauge.
I've extended the cable from the front ashtray and make a connector so I can detach the rear ashtray anytime.
Chris sorry, I have not received anything :(
Sorry for late posting, some health issues lately :(
I hope soon to get up to speed!
In some cases, as in mine car, the drains are clear and "work", but for some reason, they are not exactly aligned, and therefore excess water flows outside of the drain itself.
I explain better: from the heater box there are two plastic pipes, maybe 3-4 cm, at the ends pf the box and at the bottom. From there there is a corrugated rubber section, again 3-4cm, and it connects the "top" pipe with the hoses/pipes that pass through the floor of the car.
Mine rubber sections, probably due to bad mounting of the heater box, are "twisted" and not in a direct line, and present a kink that when too much water is produced by the AC, leaks outside.
Short of stripping everything and realign the heater box - which I will not do - I see no other solution.
To check if this is happening to you, you need to remove the two "cheeks" at the side of the center console, operation I believe is well described in these pages. Once you take them out, you will see the rubber corrugated section around the carpet area. Have fun!
Mi winter are 235/70 and while the looks are not the best on the P38 compared to the 255/65, it is a softer ride indeed.
Your indy is correct, looks are better on the 18" ... although not that much either: look at the pic above, the 16" has a chunky sidewall which looks proportionate and purposeful, while the 18" has that shopping cart look due to the thin sidewall ....
I am still wondering if worth the trouble (and cost)...
Gents, I am wondering since quite a while to make the "big step" towards 18" wheels.
As my 7 year Falkens are becoming every day less trustworthy, then now might be a good time.
Even more I am in complete confusion as I like all models mounted on P38s ....
Anyone has some set that wants to give a away from a reasonable price?
Any condition, as if they need a refurb I will deal with it. Preferably without tires (less bulk and weight).
Must be delivered somehow to Dartford in Kent.
Lacking options, as an alternative, I am lusting after these, but I got no way to take them from there ....
Anyone has Triple Spoke on their cars? I have very rarely seen them on P38s, mostly on late D2s ..
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256207917735?hash=item3ba72e92a7%3Ag%3AYCcAAOSwqr1k4yF3&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA0DfRptD155Zc4dVhc18K7Qp6nl%2FEu3oiOd3Y6Cpc0rcL5HMDydD9BqjbDoSrqAN2uFY1R6DbuY6%2Bn1vUOG1wDsWL%2BQS%2F7qh6tBgmYy9gjzokf7%2Blah%2BcokiYLskBhkJSyEhKDj5v3RUSHGgn%2BA3yjGURbjv%2F4JtXIAPKYW9064oadHC9ecutTfziD%2F%2FD3QqB2ly%2B4X51whBXbLS2BjPES%2Bt1mmCMumFWekV7he5Ih0bLRtcpgzcCDzW2Fq8LnfP3VKlfAKTfoP2icWfk4xgrvWk%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR4Spy43OYg&LH_Auction=1
Looking for old stuff ... what happened here? Any progress made?
I've sent a message but probably did not get to you, let me know for the nano
about parts ... why don't make a list? or eventually, if too cumbersome, just snap a couple pics of whatever there is, and we car sort it out from here :-)
A friend in Italy went crazy over a long time for this, and at the end it was a very small "hole" in the seam between the A-pillar and the roof itself, that was weeping water inside the cab. Go figure ....
Another advantage of the air suspension .... running air suspension!!! :-)))
Nice job! When my started failed, it did so without warning at all ... I had been running all day and on the last run ... dead.
I was lucky I was parked on uneven terrain, like a "gully", so I could easily crawl under it (normal height).
It had around 265K km. New bushes (Bosch) set me back 40 euro ... got to have some advantage here.
Thanks for all the inputs ... couple days ago I managed to lift the car on ramps and get a good look underside.
There was not much adjustment possible on the things you guys mentioned, and the steering box was on center.
Probably something else, then.
Quick run to the alignment guy, he played with the end on the right side (that'd be my passenger side, I am LHD) and lo and behold the steering wheel when to the center. We wondered that there was not way to understand really what had been done previously.
Not so cheap (35eur), but these do only trucks and Land Rovers so I was fine with no wasting time with people that had no idea (like couple weeks ago I was told to go to a "super guy" to align a MB W126 and after 30 euro is still leaning to a side like it was before ...).
Being picky, there are a couple of mm to be a perfect square, but it seems to go straight, and on the roads we got here don't make a difference. I am happy without a crunchy clockspring as well ... life is good.
Now, what's next ...
Update: I think I solved the problem ... the steering wheel and the clockspring line up perfectly, but with a crooked steering, which means most likely the steering box is off-center, or is out of alignment.
I will take it to align and will see how it goes.
I got something that keeps me puzzled, and ask for some input.
Backstory: when I started to take apart the interior, I had in a couple of occasions to move the car without airbag, sometimes in a rush fitting a steering wheel as it was. When I finally started to put together the interior, I've noticed that turning the wheel there would be a "crunching" noise coming from the steering wheel, and I assumed I've ruined the clockspring that was not aligned to the wheel itself.
As the car runs fine, I left it for other time ...
Fast forward one year and a half to today :)) and finally I got sorted another clockspring to replace, I took the shrouds off, and so on, fit the wheel and turn slight, and start to hear the same 'crunch' ... took wheel off and I realize comparing with photos online that my wheel is missing that little button that is supposed to "push" the contact with unlocks the spring - I do not know how to explain in other words.
I will go now down to the garage to see if my other spare wheel has it, otherwise I will need to look for it.
This is okay, but ->
But I got another problem, which keeps me puzzled: if I fit the clockspring in its tabs in the steering column, and then I put it in the position that is "locked" to accept the steering wheel, is moved to one side like 30 degrees, in the sense the steering would be out of center
If I push it manually, then is misaligned and I fear the moment the wheel goes in, will break it again.
When I stopped the car this was not an issue, and I have not taken it to align or any messing with the steering linkages.
What could have happen? What am I doing wrong?
I do not mind having the steering "out of center" and take the car to align, as long as I can get rid of the crunching clockspring, but what do you guys think could have happened?
Thanks for bearing with me ...
I also remember from my past woes with the heated screen, that if there is any sort of short or open circuit, the nano will highlight it in the faults, and most likely the dreaded book should pop up in the HeVAC display.
I had this for a long time and it was puzzling, until I found corrosion in the C0229 connector (the big one by the footwell), which was keeping one relay permanently engaged.