Petrol, still haven't sorted the LPG on it :(
I've not seen it yet, just checked the MOT status online and saw the failure.
Filter isn't that bad, but could probably get one today. Will plug nanocom in when I get back and see if it'll talk to the engine ecu at all.

Well lots has happened since last year, but my new issue is a failed MOT due to emissions (high CO) :(

Wondering if a fuel treatment and/or ragging will fix it. Its been laid up for over a month so that probably hasn't helped either.

Maybe we should hold it in Glasgow ;-)

Oh well. Need a new one now regardless, it got guillotined in the replacement process. :(

I'd like to check it goes open circuit at a sensible temperature, any idea what the threshold is?

Hi folks,

So I'm replacing the gearbox radiator on my 4.6, and heat was required for the pipe connections.

The temperature sensor took a tiny amount of heat itself, so I'd like to test that its working correctly still.

Is it an open/closed circuit style thermistor or a resistance based one?

Its currently short circuit, 0 ohms.

Thoughts?

Ain't that just typical luck!

Dragging this thread out of it's grave.. I need a nearside sunroof cable and guide, anyone got one on a defunct sunroof assembly they don't need?

Both mine and Gordons made a bit of a thud when lowering down sometimes, like it's getting hung up on something then gives. Must be a very tiny hang up though as it doesn't physically jump much when it goes. Would be nice to figure out what it is.

Sounds like you were asking for the wrong thing :) The one that connects the swivels is a track rod, the one you got was indeed the drag link, from steering box to swivel.

Reminds me of a conversation I had at a garage recently, after I'd replaced my drag link. Guy asked me if I'd had it tracked since doing that, and I replied no, and he was insistent that it needs tracking after that being changed. I gave up trying to explain that it doesn't make an iota of difference to the tracking.

I might be utterly wide of the mark here, but given you've got a pipe within a pipe, presumably the inside pipe is the high pressure, and the gap between the two the low pressure.. If the low pressure isn't ridiculously high, what about patching the hole with rubber, I'm thinking something like an inner tube repair patch glued on all the way around, maybe with a piece of rubber pipe slit down the middle and put over the whole thing with cable ties to give it a bit of additional support. Would be cheap and cheerful, no risk of making the problem worse, and if it holds then job done. :)

Thanks Sloth, that sounds like a sensible way to go with the aircon.

Re pressure, I took it to an air con specialist I know last week as part of this diagnosis process and he reckoned the pressure was OK on both low and high pressure sides, with it not running. The clutch wasn't playing ball at the time so that's as far as we went.

The air lock suggestion is intriguing. That would account for all the symptoms seen thus far. Is that something anyone else has come across?

Flipping back to ac, checked back of hevac and getting a healthy 12+ volts on the clutch engage line. Lo and behold, clutch has engaged as it should.
Still not getting anything anywhere near cold in the cabin though, even after 5 minutes. I don't really get how the compressor can be running but the vents aren't chilling, unless the compressor is barely working?

I did, they looked OK to my untrained eye. I believe they weren't in the affected range either, from memory.

Perhaps this is just gems vs Thor then. I'll have to find someone else with a Thor to listen to I guess.

My description is probably fairly poor. It sounds kinda lumpy/pulsing to me:

Youtube link

Tapping.. well that's coming from the right hand cylinder head, tappets I guess. Not sure what, if anything, I can do about that.

Thanks for the suggestions. I had the bumper off yesterday to do a bit more digging, and the switches both tested as the pressure being OK with a continuity tester.

So I then bridged the two terminals on the trinary switch to enable the clutch, but still not getting clutch engagement - most of the time. It did engage for a bit at one point like this, after waiting a few minutes, but I wasn't able to reproduce it later. Even when engaged, although the top pipe from the compressor to the condenser gets really rather hot, the temperature of the bottom pipe never seems to change much, and of course the temperature in the car (or via nanocom) stays resolutely where it was.

It's really frustrating that nanocom can't show the status of outputs like 'clutch enable', rather than just the air-con demand signal. :(

One suggestion I found online was to figure out which wire on the back of the HEVAC drives the clutch, and put 12 volts down it to check whether it does anything. Not had time to do this yet. Any other thoughts on where to look?

In engine news, I'm slowly working my way towards the first 1000 miles. However I have a question about how smooth the engine should be at idle (and whilst revving to some extent). Whilst looking at the 4.0 thor the other day to do the o-rings, before we drained it, he started it up - it was velvety smooth at idle. My 4.6 gems sounds significantly more tractor like - is this normal between the two generations, or is my engine still not right? Unfortunately I don't really know what they are supposed to sound like when in top health. :(

Yeah, I spent quite a bit of time cleaning up the interface as best I could in situ. Gave the pipes a wiggle as suggested too. I wonder if the plastic housing is cracked?

Gas pressure is good; had it checked today. Have ordered up a replacement trinary switch, hopefully that'll sort it. Technically I should've tested the old one, but that involves taking the bumper off again and I couldn't be bothered.

Hi folks,

Was doing the o rings on a 4.0 westminster today for a guy in Glasgow. Or attempting to, anyhow.

Got the old ones out, they were a little square, but less crusty than mine were. Someone had been in there with the silicon sealant too. Cleaned it all up as best I could in situ, and put the new o rings in, screwed it back together, coolant back in and bled.

However, water is squirting out of somewhere around the black plastic bit where the pipes sit into. Almost seems like it's coming out of the back of it, but it's possible it's travelling down the bolt hole and out?

I've checked that the two pipes are engaged with their individual notches, cleaned off as much silicone as I can, and lubed the new rings so they slide in cleanly.

Any thoughts? Have I missed something, or is it the matrix that's US?

Thanks.