I had the A/C recharged & it's working perfectly now. We have hot weather in Brittany at present but it's nice & icy in the car. The problem is that icy water is dripping down in the passenger footwell (RHD). I have been under the car to clear the A/C drains & managed to poke a screwdriver into both but I wasn't rewarded with an of armful of muck & dirty water. There is water dripping from both drains although there is more from the right hand (driver's side) drain.
Am I missing something? Do I need a longer screwdriver or do I need to start taking the dashboard out to make sure the A/C drains are connected properly at the top end?
When Jamie at the Auto Barn in Sudbury fitted my stainless steel exhaust he also replaced both lambda sensors with new Bosch ones. Apparently one of the old one put up a fight & he d to re-tap the thread to fit the new one. I have the CT booked for three days time when I will get the definitive answer as to whether the emissions are now OK.
I bought a roll of matt black sticky back plastic to use instead of touch up paint. It's much finer & stickier than Fablon the original sticky back plastic. It makes a very nice job & the roll that I bought for £6.99 is sufficient for a hundred headlights!😀 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0BRR7VQYY?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Gilbertd wrote:
When working properly, on a humid day, there is so much water comes out from under the car people will point out you've a water leak. I've had concerned people point out the trickle of water coming out from under the car when I've stopped for fuel!
A few years ago I had a guy at a petrol station in Wales flag me down as I was leaving to point out the water pouring down under the car.
Just yesterday my wife noticed her bag & the carpet in our RHD passenger footwell was damp. It's got to be the A/C drain as it hasn't been out in the rain for weeks & I just recently got the A/C recharged. Guess I will be lying underneath getting an armful of muddy water later. I have found that you need to get a screwdriver or piece of stiff wire up into the rubber limpet with a cross cut in it to get out whatever is blocking it. The rubber end of the drain is supposed to act as a one way valve to allow water out but as it gets blocked so frequently with road crud I'm not sure that it wouldn't be better if the drainage tube wasn't open ended without the valve action so that it couldn't get blocked.
Gilbertd wrote:
The sump isn't the same. Pre-99 GEMS has a pressed steel sump but a later Thor has a cast alloy one (which incorporates the flywheel cover rather than it being separate) which probably explains the difference. I've never seen anyone use a torque wrench on a sump plug, most people just do it up tight......
That does explain the difference. I had thought that the changes between GEMS & Thor were all at the top end & wasn't aware of the differences in the sump. I too wouldn't normally put a torque wrench on a sump plug but had noticed the the difference & thought that it might be important. Presumably the copper crush washer is for the steel sump & aluminium one for the aluminium sump?
Gilbertd wrote:
As I do more long distance driving on the wrong side of the road than over here, I've masked my lights to give a flat cut off on dip. I've painted mine as tape gets pulled off by the headlamp wipers but tape will work just as well if you put it in the correct place.
RH lamp
LH lamp
If you look, you'll see the lens has the sections marked that need to be masked.
What paint did you use? It looks like you applied it with a palette knife.😀 It needs to be opaque, not run & stick to glass so perhaps it was very thick?
I've just ordered a roll of matt black sticky back plastic so will experiment.
I could have put this in the 'What Have You Done To Your Range Rover Today" thread but thought that this deserves a dedicated post.
I changed the oil on my P38 yesterday & was confused regarding the torque setting for the sump plug. It's listed in RAVE as 45 Nm for up to 99MY & 32 Nm for 99MY onwards. The sump is the same & so is the sump plug so why the difference? I think that it must be due to the different crush washer. Originally the crush washer was copper then was replaced with an aluminium washer. My engine has just been rebuilt by V8 Developments & had a copper washer on the sump plug. I replaced it with a new copper washer & tightened up to 45 Nm so I hope that I have done the right thing.
I have a Nanocom but I prefer the interface of Storey Wilson's EAS Unlock which runs on Windows. I purchased a licence for the V4 version of the software. It does most everything that the Nanocom can do but is easier to use. I have been running EAS Unlock in a virtual machine on my MacBook Pro but I noticed that pretty decent Windows tablets are very cheap used on eBay. I just got a HP ElitePad PRO G2-1000 running Windows 11 for £74.99. It runs EAS Unlock perfectly. It came with an OTG USB adapter & works with the cable that Storey sent me when I bought the V4 licence. It didn't work with a couple of other cables that I have that were purchased on eBay as there was a comms error. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/325644071523
nigelbb wrote:
Just noticed that I posted this in the wrong thread last week:-
This morning I dropped my P38 off at a new place that I have found that specialises in P38s & seems very knowledgeable. Importantly he was happy for me to supply the parts (stainless steel exhaust & lambda sensor) & he will just charge labour for fitting them. I don't have a pit or lift & am getting too old to be scrabbling about in the dirt under the car so this was ideal. He had three other P38s in the yard plus a few other makes.
He dropped me off at the station for a short rail journey home & took the opportunity to drive my car. The reconditioned engine of course runs beautifully but steering & suspension was all pronounced as up to normal P38 standards. I asked about the stiff gear change. He said that the other identical Vogue that he had in the yard is exactly the same. He is going to check over the car for me while it's on the hoist. He mentioned that for example corrosion on the rear brake pipes is often overlooked even by MOT testers.
I hope that I have found what I am looking for ie a reliable mechanic who knows P38s & can undertake work that is beyond me. I'm picking up the car next Wednesday.
I collected the car a couple of days ago. It now sports two new Bosch lambda sensors & a very shiny stainless steel exhaust system. It was a shame that I couldn't find a stainless steel centre silencer at either a decent price or for rapid delivery but hopefully the Britpart silencer will be good for a couple of years which will give me time to save up. The old system had some noticeable holes in it so no wonder that it failed the CT. It is back to the normal (not excessive) V8 sound. I took it to Jamie at the Auto Barn near Sudbury. He runs a P38 himself on LPG & had three in the yard under repair. He had a good look underneath & amongst other things put plenty of grease in the prop shaft UJs etc
We are back to France next week when I shall take it in for a repeat CT. The only thing that I have to attend to now is the headlamp dipped beam. Two years ago I managed to adjust the stickers so that the tester was satisfied so fingers crossed it will be OK again. Unfortunately new LHD headlamps cost over £300 each while the only used ones I could find on eBay are in not so great condition & cost £290 for the pair delivered from Lithuania.
Just noticed that I posted this in the wrong thread last week:-
This morning I dropped my P38 off at a new place that I have found that specialises in P38s & seems very knowledgeable. Importantly he was happy for me to supply the parts (stainless steel exhaust & lambda sensor) & he will just charge labour for fitting them. I don't have a pit or lift & am getting too old to be scrabbling about in the dirt under the car so this was ideal. He had three other P38s in the yard plus a few other makes.
He dropped me off at the station for a short rail journey home & took the opportunity to drive my car. The reconditioned engine of course runs beautifully but steering & suspension was all pronounced as up to normal P38 standards. I asked about the stiff gear change. He said that the other identical Vogue that he had in the yard is exactly the same. He is going to check over the car for me while it's on the hoist. He mentioned that for example corrosion on the rear brake pipes is often overlooked even by MOT testers.
I hope that I have found what I am looking for ie a reliable mechanic who knows P38s & can undertake work that is beyond me. I'm picking up the car next Wednesday.
Chasman wrote:
Good board from my car from previous MY. No Faraday cage. Is the sub-board a filter? (Wrote this before hearing how Marty solved it).
We need both cars working for Monday so we'll leave the faulty car on charge and in the furthest space.
3rd gen boards like this one are £169.49 from East Coast 4x4. There's 200 percent brand tax on the LR version from LR Direct so we've ignored that.
AFAIK there are no pattern parts only genuine LR. Is that new? If so it's a very good price. I paid £299 for a new LR Gen 3 receiver about six years ago. I had owned the car for about six years at that point & never suffered battery drain but I had always lived in rural locations. I then moved into town & was parking my P38 on the street & immediately started suffering from a flat battery if left for more than a day or two. It took me some weeks before my researches highlighted the problem during which time I became very adept at entering the EKA. At that time Marty was yet to develop his filter so the only option for me if I wanted to continue to park the car on the street was to buy a Gen 3 receiver (disconnecting the antenna didn't fix the issue for me).
There will be few if any used Gen 3 receivers available from breakers as they were never fitted to any new P38 as as this fix wasn't developed until after production ceased.
This morning I dropped my P38 off at a new place that I have found that specialises in P38s & seems very knowledgeable. Importantly he was happy for me to supply the parts (stainless steel exhaust & lambda sensor) & he will just charge labour for fitting them. I don't have a pit or lift & am getting too old to be scrabbling about in the dirt under the car so this was ideal. He had three other P38s in the yard plus a few other makes.
He dropped me off at the station for a short rail journey home & took the opportunity to drive my car. The reconditioned engine of course runs beautifully but steering & suspension was all pronounced as up to normal P38 standards. I asked about the stiff gear change. He said that the other identical Vogue that he had in the yard is exactly the same. He is going to check over the car for me while it's on the hoist. He mentioned that for example corrosion on the rear brake pipes is often overlooked even by MOT testers.
I hope that I have found what I am looking for ie a reliable mechanic who knows P38s & can undertake work that is beyond me. I'm picking up the car next Wednesday.
Gilbertd wrote:
Yes it does work. A friend does mobile AC recharging and he has suggested it to a few customers that were in a similar situation to you and it has cured very small leaks. In fact, there's a can of it in Dina's Merc which had a very small leak from the evaporator and I think Merc started there and built the rest of the car around it making replacing it more than just a PITA. That was losing charge after a couple of months so if it can seal that it should do yours without a problem. Follow the instructions to the letter though or you'll end up getting covered in it.
Usual place for leaks on a P38 is the top corner of the condenser but with a leak as slow as yours, even putting tracer gas in and using an electronic sniffer it would be difficult to detect.
Thanks. It's worth a punt at £19.99. I've been reading the instructions & you need to squirt in refrigerant immediately after squirting the product in. It actually warns you that you may clog up the inlet port as the product sets if you don't immediately follow with refrigerant. Now I understand why Halfords sell cans of R134. It had always seemed daft to me that people would pay more for cans of refrigerant for a DIY recharge than what they would pay to get the AC system recharged properly.
I had the AC recharged yesterday & now have icy air blowing out of the vents. I have owned the car for twelve years & it seems that every year I need to get the AC recharged but at least it then works well until the next year. I'm not sure whether this means that I have a microscopic pinhole somewhere in the system or just that the system is a bit porous. Does anyone have experience using this product which is claimed to fix slow leaks in AC systems? https://stp-aircon.eu/product/stp-super-seal-air-con-stop-leak-kit/
I used the ATS Groupon deal to get the AC recharged at the bargain price of £41.99. https://www.groupon.co.uk/deals/ats-euromaster-6
Gilbertd wrote:
I put one of these https://www.gravityperformance.co.uk/product/exhaust/cat-back-exhaust-system-range-rover-p38-mk2-v8-td-94-02/ on mine but with a standard mild steel centre box. Not that much more expensive than a mild steel aftermarket and after going through one every couple of years, figured it should be fit and forget. They also do at mid box delete pipe https://www.gravityperformance.co.uk/product/exhaust/centre-sections-resonator-deletes/exhaust-centre-section-range-rover-mk2-p38-4-0-4-6-v8-94-02/ but not sure if that would make it too noisy and drone on a long run like you do. I know it would drive me bonkers.....
I just purchased one of these systems & was well impressed by the rapid delivery as I ordered yesterday just before 1pm & the exhaust system was delivered this morning just after 10am. It looks like very nice quality & was well packed. It has a lifetime warranty (not sure whether that's my lifetime or the lifetime of the car.😀)
Sadly I couldn't find any stainless steel intermediate/central silencer (Land Rover part number ESR3195) at a reasonable cost. In all cases the single central silencer was more expensive than the twin silencers that I just bought. I also couldn't find a parts supplier with stock of a mild steel intermediate/central silencer. Island 4x4 don't even have a number to call now. Rimmer Bros were out of stock for stainless steel systems until the end of the month. In the end I ordered a Britpart front box with a 2 year warranty from LR Direct who told me that if I ordered yesterday (Tuesday) they should get it from their supplier but this evening & ship it to me tomorrow for 1-3 day delivery so possibly the end of this week but more likely the beginning of next week.
To bring this to a conclusion I was able to operate all the windows with the Nanocom & confirmed that all the switches are working. The passenger (left hand front) window is now working again. I think that operating the switch multiple times must have got rid of the corrosion.
I haven't got any switch cleaner to hand as it's in the garage in my house in the UK but I will definitely give the switches all a good clean once we are back in the UK next week.
Gilbertd wrote:
BECM - Diagnostics - Inputs - Mirrors Windows, three or four screens in you can see the status of the switches, so you can try the switch and see if the status changes. Then in BECM - Diagnostics - Outputs - Windows/Sunroof where you can operate each from the Nano.
Thanks as always. I won't get a chance to take a look until tomorrow now but I will report back.
Gilbertd wrote:
To confirm it is the switch pack first and not the window motor itself. You should be able to operate the window with the Nanocom so confirm it does actually work.
Which Nanocom screen will I find windows up/down? I suppose it's the BECM but I don't recall seeing it.
Clive603 wrote:
Blast of switch cleaner aerosol into the switch aperture and a few presses on the control panel appears to have fixed mine.
Mine gets used about twice year at most so contacts had plenty of time to get dirty. I suspect regular exercise of all the centre console switches, once a month or so might be good idea to keep the contacts clean and all working. Yet another of my good intentions that doesn't happen!
Clive
Thanks for the suggestion. I will certainly give it a try with switch cleaner. Disuse could definitely be the issue as it was only yesterday that on a long-ish drive we were so hot that we needed to open the window. I have no idea when the window was last opened but it must be before I dropped it off at V8 Developments last August.
As my head gasket blew I had my engine completely reconditioned by V8 Developments. Unfortunately despite delivering the car to them in August last year they only just completed the work so the car was sitting in their yard for eight months. The air conditioning isn't working & I expect (hope) that as per usual it will just require its annual recharge. I usually use the Groupon ATS offer (currently £41.99) but didn't have time to get that done in between collecting the car from V8 Developments & travelling to our cottage in France.
All the above is a prelude to explain why we have been opening both the passenger & driver windows to help cool the car in the pleasantly sunny weather that we have been enjoying recently. My P38 is a RHD & yesterday the passenger window stopped working. Happily the window is closed & won't open rather than being open & impossible to close. The driver's window still operates OK. According to the handbook both passenger & driver windows share the same 30A fuse so that's not the issue.
Any suggestions as where I should start looking to fix the passenger window?