Gilbertd wrote:
That's the external temperature sensor, not the aspirator. Aspirator is JTF000030 which is available but a little more expensive https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/jtf000030-sensor-in-car-temperature.html?code=60907
I have a feeling I have a spare one, I'll have a look later and see if I can find it.
Wow! £167! I hope that cleaning all the fluff out of mine is all that is required.
Interestingly while you can buy new from JLR there aren't any listed on eBay in the UK. There is one from Latvia for £50 including postage that looks nice & clean & one from Spain that is £85 including shipping where they haven't even bothered to clean all the dust off.
romanrob wrote:
blast of compressed air for the current one, and order a replacement aspirator from ebay :)
Amazingly you can still buy a genuine STC3365 from JLR for £45.43. They either stockpiled too many or they don't fail very often.😀
https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/stc3365-sensor-temperature.html
Martyuk wrote:
Yeah, I would try swapping the aspirator then.
I looked at mine on nanocom today and it was reading about the same as heater core (11-12 Deg) with the engine being off for awhile and just ignition on.
If I put my finger on the sensor it would go up in temp as expected, and drop again when finger removed.
With engine on and the system in auto, I could set the desired temp on HEVAC and then again with finger on aspirator, I could see the blend motors moving a bit, so I don't think there's a delay on aspirator sensor read.
Trying another sensor is probably a good place to start on your RR.
Thanks for the troubleshooting. It does look like the sensor is at fault.
Martyuk wrote:
I don't know if the interior aspirator sensor is part of the 'doesn't update straight away' ones, or if it does update straight away.
I'm meeting Nick at the workshop today to sort some more parts out for him - so I'll borrow his Nanocom (as I forgot to bring mine with me) and have a look on my RR as it's also a 2001 with the later HEVAC controller.
Not getting as hot as it used to could be a lot of things - from sticking blend flaps that don't fully go to hot, or restricted flow through the heater core.
Is your RR just on Petrol or LPG aswell?
No LPG just petrol (although running on E85 85% bioethanol when in France).
Moving & calibrating the various blend motors with my Nanocom seems OK so I don't think that the blend flaps are sticking.
The heater core was replaced less than two years ago so I don't think that it's clogged up. The heater core is about 85C while coolant temp is 90-95C.
Gilbertd wrote:
Amongst the assorted bits I rescued from Marty's workshop yesterday before they get consigned to a skip, was a rear wiper motor. Had no use for one at the time but having stuff is always useful so it got bunged in my trailer. Looks like that will find a home soon too.
Great!
Martyuk wrote:
Is the fan behind the aspirator clean and spinning freely? is there any clogged dust in the aspirator that could be causing it to read high for some reason?
Also, is the reading with the vehicle running? or before you start it? I know on the later P38's the external air temp sensor is delayed in reading until there is some road speed and a certain time (I think maybe 30 seconds) has gone past. I have never actually looked at it with the other sensors, but maybe all of them don't update straight away... (which doesn't make a lot of sense - but thinking from a coding point of view, if the temperature read is a sub-routine, then it would be easier to put a check in over the whole routine than maybe just one sensor).
If it's reading 25, and you put the temp to 26, does it start warning the air up (you should be able to see blend motor positions aswell in the nanocom to see when they are moving). Also, if you move the temp up to 'HI' then that will override the 'climate control' part of trying to reach a target temp, so you should get full hot at that point - which at least will blow it where you have the vents already set, rather than at the windscreen as in the 'PROG' mode
Marty
It's going to make it more difficult to diagnose if the reading isn't correct until the car is rolling along. The basic issue is that years ago I can remember the heater kicking out a lot more heat than it does now. It does work when I set the temp to 'HI' but still not as hot as I remember. It would be interesting to know whether it's normal for a stationary P38 to have the aspirator temperature read 25C.
It's still a bit 'tired' as it sweeps across the rear screen & the motor is a bit noisy so I suspect that it's on its way out. It stopped mid sweep today & I needed to 'encourage' the wiper to park by lifting it up off the screen. It looks like I will need to take the motor out. I have read of people refurbishing the motor with new brushes but I haven't found where I can buy those. I would prefer if I could get away with replacing brushes for £10 rather than buy a whole new genuine motor (part number AMR3265) for £265.
I have been recommended to use low mode when manoeuvring with the caravan attached so I wanted to check that it was OK. Today for I think the first time in the nearly 13 years that I have owned the car I put the gearbox into Low mode. I fully expected the motor to be stuck or defective but it worked fine & I was able to engage low mode & progress in forward & in reverse.
I have been getting the message that screen wash is low when there is ample screen wash in the reservoir. I thought that I was going to have to replace the sensor. As these are no longer available it would have meant a used part. When I was chatting on the phone with @Gilbertd I mentioned this & he said that it's because mixing different screen washes that over the years crud builds up in the reservoir & stops the sensor working properly. The fix is to ram a hosepipe as far down the neck of the filler & switch it on. I continued flushing until there was just pure water coming out with no trace of screen wash.
Success!!! The low screen wash message no longer appears.
Gilbertd wrote:
If the aspirator thinks the inside of the car is 25 degrees and you have got the HEVAC set to a lower temperature than that, it will try to cool the car down to get it to the target temperature. A simple test is to give the aspirator (located behind the little grille below the clock) a squirt with brake cleaner which will cool it down rapidly (Nanocom should show that too), so the heater should ramp up the temperature from the vents very quickly.
I just did the test with a squirt of brake cleaner that cooled down to 7.5C as it was evaporating. The heater then started to blow hot air.
I'm not sure what my next step is. The aspirator temperature is read as 25C before I even turn on the engine. I don't know how I can get it to read the ambient temperature.
I have a problem with my heater as it rarely seems to blow hot air into the cabin. If I press the PROG button I do get hot air.
Here are the readings on my Nanocom Do these values look OK? The aspirator temperature seems high.
Bolt wrote:
+1 on the possibility of a Disco amp.
And yes, if it is not a DSP (Digital Signal Processing) amp, you only get the front speakers.
So, if you do find the black box up top behind the sound insulation behind the subwoofer box, post the part number.
I had the dead DSP amp issue,(twice!) and did the disco amp thing on my 02 then started collecting any
DSP amps I came across in wreckers yards. Now, I think I have 3 spares! Worth having for the great sound!
Three spares DSP amps! I would have liked Marty's DSP amp but the price here in the UK is just crazy. On eBay at present is one XQK100340 in the UK at £450 with 30 day warranty & another in Latvia at £400. That's far too much money to speculate on an amp that must be at least 23 years old & which could fail just just like all the others in just a few weeks of use.
I've gone the Disco 2 amp route (XQK100210). There are plenty of these used & working on eBay for £30-40. Happily I found a guy selling a brand new XQK100210 for £50. There is a chancer trying to sell brand new XQK100210s as a replacement for a failed XQK100340 but for £250!! As there is an annoying amount of disassembly required to replace the amp I plan on fitting this when I get round to replacing the speakers in the sub-woofer as the originals are turning to powder.
If anybody wants a brand new XQK100210 for £50 here is the link https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154504582646
They say that "It's good to share" & "A trouble shared is a trouble halved". Well this is issue has been bugging me for 2-3 weeks now but as soon as I post a thread about it I get a fix!
Here is a top tip to access the hinge of the wiper arm so that you can lubricate it. While the wiper arm is operating press the release button to arrest the arm as it is hanging straight down. Now press the button again to drop the lower half of the tailgate. Now jump up on the lowered tailgate & you will be able to stand up & easily reach the hinge of the wiper arm.
The rear wiper on my P38 is on the blink. It's very sluggish when it wipes. That's if it wipes as often it won't move or it does move then dies stuck halfway across the screen. I have had it operating both with the wiper stalk & with the Nanocom so think that all is good regarding BECM & controls. I think that it points to an issue with the wiper motor. I found a couple of posts on other forums where guys have cleaned up the motor & applied plenty of WD40 to get them going again. At the moment I just try & resist using the rear wiper as I know it will stop mid stroke & hang down until sometime later when it will decide to park hidden away.
What is involved in taking out the wiper motor as I cannot find a guide online?
Where can I buy new brushes for the wiper motor? I can't find any listed.
My rear wiper has been a bit reluctant to park & then sluggish while working. It has now stopped in the middle of the rear window & does not park or wipe. The symptoms point to the wiper motor (still available new from JLR for £255 or from Island 4x4 for £180 or as little as £12.99 used from a breaker) but is there anything else I need to consider. I have read that it's controlled direct from the BECM without a relay.
Clive603 wrote:
Opie Oils sent me Mahle filters the last couple of times.
As its 9+ miles to a factor (or, whisper it, Halfrauds) I switched to Opie kits a couple or three services ago as being decent value and more convenient with everything coming in one box. Bit hit'n miss on drain plug washers, but I stock Dowty seals and use them rather than the usual alloy washers so that matters not. They tend to send two boxes of two pollen filters rather than one box of two. So getting overstocked there.
Clive
I didn't realise that Opie Oils sold service kits. I have bought Valvoline VR1 20w/50 from them previously as they have good value prices. I think that I have enough sump plug washers for my next ten services.
Do you have a link to their service kits? I can't find them on the Opie Oils website. When I enter details of my P38 it lists lots of different oils but no service kit. There is a slick webpage that looks up your registration number to get details of the car but then it lists lots of parts that very clearly aren't for a P38.
Island 4x4 have genuine Land Rover oil filters part number ERR3340 for just £6.49+VAT (£7.78) which is less than half the price elsewhere. I just bought a couple of them as the shipping cost is the same for one or two. Total cost for the two including shipping was £22.78. Rimmers have genuine oil filters for £21.24 each plus shipping.
Pierre3 wrote:
Thanks, Richard. I am going to buy a new one and hopefully that will sort out the problem.
I am surprised how noisy the vibration noise is !!
One other question, if you happen to know the answer - I buy my parts from Landrover in Belgium as this saves any extra duty when arriving in Ireland, although, admittedly, I am paying it in Belgium - but looking at the description for the drivers' side door latch, RHD, there are a number of different part numbers. Is there any chance that you might happen to have a listing for a 2001 P38, with the VIN nr. being W3 1 A452327 ? I read through an older post where you listed the various VIN numbers and the relevant years, but on the LR Direct website there is no part number relating to a VIN 1A452327.
Pierre3.
I noticed that Rimmer Bros now do an EU VAT All Inclusive Service. When I am in France I have several times ordered from RLD Autos who have good stocks of parts & very rapid delivery.
https://www.rld-autos.com/fr/pieces-land-rover/range-rover-p38
Marty , I've sent you a PM