I have a Nanocom but I prefer the interface of Storey Wilson's EAS Unlock which runs on Windows. I purchased a licence for the V4 version of the software. It does most everything that the Nanocom can do but is easier to use. I have been running EAS Unlock in a virtual machine on my MacBook Pro but I noticed that pretty decent Windows tablets are very cheap used on eBay. I just got a HP ElitePad PRO G2-1000 running Windows 11 for £74.99. It runs EAS Unlock perfectly. It came with an OTG USB adapter & works with the cable that Storey sent me when I bought the V4 licence. It didn't work with a couple of other cables that I have that were purchased on eBay as there was a comms error. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/325644071523
nigelbb wrote:
Just noticed that I posted this in the wrong thread last week:-
This morning I dropped my P38 off at a new place that I have found that specialises in P38s & seems very knowledgeable. Importantly he was happy for me to supply the parts (stainless steel exhaust & lambda sensor) & he will just charge labour for fitting them. I don't have a pit or lift & am getting too old to be scrabbling about in the dirt under the car so this was ideal. He had three other P38s in the yard plus a few other makes.
He dropped me off at the station for a short rail journey home & took the opportunity to drive my car. The reconditioned engine of course runs beautifully but steering & suspension was all pronounced as up to normal P38 standards. I asked about the stiff gear change. He said that the other identical Vogue that he had in the yard is exactly the same. He is going to check over the car for me while it's on the hoist. He mentioned that for example corrosion on the rear brake pipes is often overlooked even by MOT testers.
I hope that I have found what I am looking for ie a reliable mechanic who knows P38s & can undertake work that is beyond me. I'm picking up the car next Wednesday.
I collected the car a couple of days ago. It now sports two new Bosch lambda sensors & a very shiny stainless steel exhaust system. It was a shame that I couldn't find a stainless steel centre silencer at either a decent price or for rapid delivery but hopefully the Britpart silencer will be good for a couple of years which will give me time to save up. The old system had some noticeable holes in it so no wonder that it failed the CT. It is back to the normal (not excessive) V8 sound. I took it to Jamie at the Auto Barn near Sudbury. He runs a P38 himself on LPG & had three in the yard under repair. He had a good look underneath & amongst other things put plenty of grease in the prop shaft UJs etc
We are back to France next week when I shall take it in for a repeat CT. The only thing that I have to attend to now is the headlamp dipped beam. Two years ago I managed to adjust the stickers so that the tester was satisfied so fingers crossed it will be OK again. Unfortunately new LHD headlamps cost over £300 each while the only used ones I could find on eBay are in not so great condition & cost £290 for the pair delivered from Lithuania.
Just noticed that I posted this in the wrong thread last week:-
This morning I dropped my P38 off at a new place that I have found that specialises in P38s & seems very knowledgeable. Importantly he was happy for me to supply the parts (stainless steel exhaust & lambda sensor) & he will just charge labour for fitting them. I don't have a pit or lift & am getting too old to be scrabbling about in the dirt under the car so this was ideal. He had three other P38s in the yard plus a few other makes.
He dropped me off at the station for a short rail journey home & took the opportunity to drive my car. The reconditioned engine of course runs beautifully but steering & suspension was all pronounced as up to normal P38 standards. I asked about the stiff gear change. He said that the other identical Vogue that he had in the yard is exactly the same. He is going to check over the car for me while it's on the hoist. He mentioned that for example corrosion on the rear brake pipes is often overlooked even by MOT testers.
I hope that I have found what I am looking for ie a reliable mechanic who knows P38s & can undertake work that is beyond me. I'm picking up the car next Wednesday.
Chasman wrote:
Good board from my car from previous MY. No Faraday cage. Is the sub-board a filter? (Wrote this before hearing how Marty solved it).
We need both cars working for Monday so we'll leave the faulty car on charge and in the furthest space.
3rd gen boards like this one are £169.49 from East Coast 4x4. There's 200 percent brand tax on the LR version from LR Direct so we've ignored that.
AFAIK there are no pattern parts only genuine LR. Is that new? If so it's a very good price. I paid £299 for a new LR Gen 3 receiver about six years ago. I had owned the car for about six years at that point & never suffered battery drain but I had always lived in rural locations. I then moved into town & was parking my P38 on the street & immediately started suffering from a flat battery if left for more than a day or two. It took me some weeks before my researches highlighted the problem during which time I became very adept at entering the EKA. At that time Marty was yet to develop his filter so the only option for me if I wanted to continue to park the car on the street was to buy a Gen 3 receiver (disconnecting the antenna didn't fix the issue for me).
There will be few if any used Gen 3 receivers available from breakers as they were never fitted to any new P38 as as this fix wasn't developed until after production ceased.
This morning I dropped my P38 off at a new place that I have found that specialises in P38s & seems very knowledgeable. Importantly he was happy for me to supply the parts (stainless steel exhaust & lambda sensor) & he will just charge labour for fitting them. I don't have a pit or lift & am getting too old to be scrabbling about in the dirt under the car so this was ideal. He had three other P38s in the yard plus a few other makes.
He dropped me off at the station for a short rail journey home & took the opportunity to drive my car. The reconditioned engine of course runs beautifully but steering & suspension was all pronounced as up to normal P38 standards. I asked about the stiff gear change. He said that the other identical Vogue that he had in the yard is exactly the same. He is going to check over the car for me while it's on the hoist. He mentioned that for example corrosion on the rear brake pipes is often overlooked even by MOT testers.
I hope that I have found what I am looking for ie a reliable mechanic who knows P38s & can undertake work that is beyond me. I'm picking up the car next Wednesday.
Gilbertd wrote:
Yes it does work. A friend does mobile AC recharging and he has suggested it to a few customers that were in a similar situation to you and it has cured very small leaks. In fact, there's a can of it in Dina's Merc which had a very small leak from the evaporator and I think Merc started there and built the rest of the car around it making replacing it more than just a PITA. That was losing charge after a couple of months so if it can seal that it should do yours without a problem. Follow the instructions to the letter though or you'll end up getting covered in it.
Usual place for leaks on a P38 is the top corner of the condenser but with a leak as slow as yours, even putting tracer gas in and using an electronic sniffer it would be difficult to detect.
Thanks. It's worth a punt at £19.99. I've been reading the instructions & you need to squirt in refrigerant immediately after squirting the product in. It actually warns you that you may clog up the inlet port as the product sets if you don't immediately follow with refrigerant. Now I understand why Halfords sell cans of R134. It had always seemed daft to me that people would pay more for cans of refrigerant for a DIY recharge than what they would pay to get the AC system recharged properly.
I had the AC recharged yesterday & now have icy air blowing out of the vents. I have owned the car for twelve years & it seems that every year I need to get the AC recharged but at least it then works well until the next year. I'm not sure whether this means that I have a microscopic pinhole somewhere in the system or just that the system is a bit porous. Does anyone have experience using this product which is claimed to fix slow leaks in AC systems? https://stp-aircon.eu/product/stp-super-seal-air-con-stop-leak-kit/
I used the ATS Groupon deal to get the AC recharged at the bargain price of £41.99. https://www.groupon.co.uk/deals/ats-euromaster-6
Gilbertd wrote:
I put one of these https://www.gravityperformance.co.uk/product/exhaust/cat-back-exhaust-system-range-rover-p38-mk2-v8-td-94-02/ on mine but with a standard mild steel centre box. Not that much more expensive than a mild steel aftermarket and after going through one every couple of years, figured it should be fit and forget. They also do at mid box delete pipe https://www.gravityperformance.co.uk/product/exhaust/centre-sections-resonator-deletes/exhaust-centre-section-range-rover-mk2-p38-4-0-4-6-v8-94-02/ but not sure if that would make it too noisy and drone on a long run like you do. I know it would drive me bonkers.....
I just purchased one of these systems & was well impressed by the rapid delivery as I ordered yesterday just before 1pm & the exhaust system was delivered this morning just after 10am. It looks like very nice quality & was well packed. It has a lifetime warranty (not sure whether that's my lifetime or the lifetime of the car.😀)
Sadly I couldn't find any stainless steel intermediate/central silencer (Land Rover part number ESR3195) at a reasonable cost. In all cases the single central silencer was more expensive than the twin silencers that I just bought. I also couldn't find a parts supplier with stock of a mild steel intermediate/central silencer. Island 4x4 don't even have a number to call now. Rimmer Bros were out of stock for stainless steel systems until the end of the month. In the end I ordered a Britpart front box with a 2 year warranty from LR Direct who told me that if I ordered yesterday (Tuesday) they should get it from their supplier but this evening & ship it to me tomorrow for 1-3 day delivery so possibly the end of this week but more likely the beginning of next week.
To bring this to a conclusion I was able to operate all the windows with the Nanocom & confirmed that all the switches are working. The passenger (left hand front) window is now working again. I think that operating the switch multiple times must have got rid of the corrosion.
I haven't got any switch cleaner to hand as it's in the garage in my house in the UK but I will definitely give the switches all a good clean once we are back in the UK next week.
Gilbertd wrote:
BECM - Diagnostics - Inputs - Mirrors Windows, three or four screens in you can see the status of the switches, so you can try the switch and see if the status changes. Then in BECM - Diagnostics - Outputs - Windows/Sunroof where you can operate each from the Nano.
Thanks as always. I won't get a chance to take a look until tomorrow now but I will report back.
Gilbertd wrote:
To confirm it is the switch pack first and not the window motor itself. You should be able to operate the window with the Nanocom so confirm it does actually work.
Which Nanocom screen will I find windows up/down? I suppose it's the BECM but I don't recall seeing it.
Clive603 wrote:
Blast of switch cleaner aerosol into the switch aperture and a few presses on the control panel appears to have fixed mine.
Mine gets used about twice year at most so contacts had plenty of time to get dirty. I suspect regular exercise of all the centre console switches, once a month or so might be good idea to keep the contacts clean and all working. Yet another of my good intentions that doesn't happen!
Clive
Thanks for the suggestion. I will certainly give it a try with switch cleaner. Disuse could definitely be the issue as it was only yesterday that on a long-ish drive we were so hot that we needed to open the window. I have no idea when the window was last opened but it must be before I dropped it off at V8 Developments last August.
As my head gasket blew I had my engine completely reconditioned by V8 Developments. Unfortunately despite delivering the car to them in August last year they only just completed the work so the car was sitting in their yard for eight months. The air conditioning isn't working & I expect (hope) that as per usual it will just require its annual recharge. I usually use the Groupon ATS offer (currently £41.99) but didn't have time to get that done in between collecting the car from V8 Developments & travelling to our cottage in France.
All the above is a prelude to explain why we have been opening both the passenger & driver windows to help cool the car in the pleasantly sunny weather that we have been enjoying recently. My P38 is a RHD & yesterday the passenger window stopped working. Happily the window is closed & won't open rather than being open & impossible to close. The driver's window still operates OK. According to the handbook both passenger & driver windows share the same 30A fuse so that's not the issue.
Any suggestions as where I should start looking to fix the passenger window?
dhallworth wrote:
V8 Developments told me to use a 10w40 oil that has Zinc in it to prolong the life of the camshaft. I’m sure it was Valvolene they recommended.
I have just had my engine completely rebuilt by V8 Developments. I've now done 1,000 miles & the dipstick indicates that I will need to top up soon. Just yesterday I exchanged emails with V8 Developments inquiring about oil & they told me to do an oil change now followed by an oil & filter change every 5,000 miles subsequently. The oil they recommend is Valvoline VR1 Racing 20w-50.
mad-as wrote:
i just replaced my sensors , they came out very easy with a 17mm open end spanner, gems. the usual would apply , check that the plugs are not dirty or corroded or damage to warring. i think you can check the heating circuit on the sensor with a multi meter . 5 minute job IF it just undoes.😀
Gilbertd wrote:
Easier said than done. To get the cats and downpipes out, you need to take the gearbox crossmember off.....
Wait until you have the new exhaust fitted and you will be able to look at the lambda on the Nanocom. If you check it now and make a note of the readings, then check again after the exhaust leaks are no longer there.
Good point. Replacing the sensor doesn't look like a simple job so if I can avoid it I certainly will.
Is there enough room to use a Stilson? The sensors are on top of the cat. As engine has been recently replaced & the post-cat exhaust system needs replacement it might easier to remove the cats before applying penetrating oil & heat to the old sensors.
Lpgc wrote:
P0135, not P1035.
P0135 does point to the lambda sensor's heater circuit. With this error code the lambda sensor may output correct signal or not when the lambda sensor is hot enough (the heater normally makes it hot, the error says the heater won't be working) and the ECU may run in closed loop mode (so attempt to correct mixture based on lambda sensor signal) or not (may run in open loop mode and ignore lambda sensor signal). But it does all point to you needing to change that lambda sensor or fix it's wiring.
Sometimes a lambda sensor with failed heater circuit will output correct signal when hot enough but it might not be hot enough when the engine is just idling.
If there's a problem with the heater circuit the heater circuit could be shorted to the signal circuit, which will mess up signal.
Thanks for picking up the typo. It was a 20 mile drive to the test centre & they tested soon after I arrived so I think that the sensors were probably warmed up OK whether the heaters were working or not.
How difficult a job is replacing the sensors? Looking at RAVE it's just a question of wriggling under the car & unscrewing them from the cats. I guess I can find the correct size of spanner from the replacement.
Any recommendations for which sensors to use. There is a wide range of prices. Is this one of those cases like with the MAF that buying anything other than Bosch is a waste of money? https://www.lrdirect.com/mhk100940-sensor-lambda
I will fit the new exhaust & cross my fingers. Annoyingly the only way of testing emissions is to pay for the CT to be done.
Any thoughts on the P1035 error? Is it a dead or dying O2 sensor?
My 2001 Vogue just failed its Contrôle Technique (CT = French MOT) on emissions amongst other things. It's only done about 1K miles after fitting a fully reconditioned engine by V8 Developments. The failure was
Lambda 1.128 when the acceptable level is 0.97 - 1.03
It also failed on holes in the exhaust system. The tester told me that there were lots of holes over the whole system after the cats. I haven't been underneath to look but it definitely does sound a bit throatier than it should.
I'm not sure of the relevance but the only error picked up by my Nanocom is P1035 OXYGEN SENSOR HEATER UPSTREAM
Any ideas?
