Morat wrote:
In a perfect world I'd pull the engine, install top hat liners and use unicorn lard to lubricate a set of brand new ARP studs but sadly I'm not in that world yet!
If the driver's side goes, that'll get done on its own too. The engine first started a very slight ticking years ago - in fact Marty noticed it when we (he) did the Heater Matrix. If that was the start of this issue then it took a looong time before it finally blew out the rest of the HG.
I had ticking noise for years on my P38 which was always put down to a tappet but perhaps it was an indication that my head gasket was failing.
A few years ago my P38 was intermittently running roughly. It would suddenly lose almost all power then need to be revved up for a minute or two before it would recover. On this occasion I managed to pull into a lay-by & as I was revving up the engine trying get it to deliver some power there was an almighty bang from the rear. To add insult to injury not only had the CPS finally died but the near side rear air spring had exploded.
I didn't have a problem with a flat battery on my P38 for many years when I lived in the country but when I moved into the town & had to park the car on the street I encountered problems. I had the RAC out several times & became very adept at entering the EKA code with the key before I discovered from my forum researches that it was the RF receiver. I had a Gen 1 of course. I tried a Gen 2 which was better but the battery was still going flat if I left the car for more than a few days. I bought an alleged Gen 3 from eBay which was no better then the Gen 2 so I suspect that it was really a Gen 2 that had been 'upgraded' with a green dot sticker. I finally opted for a brand new genuine Gen 3 that cost me about £250 & completely solved the flat battery problem.
I was surprised at how cheap a new starter motor is. At £88 for the cheapest it's almost worth buying one to carry as a spare. https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-NAD101490P
Even a genuine replacement is only £221 https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-NAD101490E
`Rimmers also have a set of brushes if you want to refurbish your starter motor https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-STC4465
Pierre3 wrote:
A couple of days ago the door lock threw a wobbler, which I have seen mentioned a good few times. I went to get out of the car only to find that all the doors were locked, but when I pulled up the drivers side lock button [in the door] all the buttons hopped up, the doors unlocked, except for the drivers' side door, and then immediately locked again.
I was able to get out the passenger side, and this morning, having followed advice from a RR guy in Wales, Iain McKee, I opened the drivers' side lock so that all the locks are open. Currently, the car now unlocks and relocks without a problem, but the latch is still an issue, in that it will still bounce back open when I go to close the door.
So, would I be right in saying that the door latch unit, with the micro-switches, is goosed and needs replacing ?
Pierre3.
Back in March when this happened to me it turned out to be the Bowden cable running from the latch to the interior door handle that was sticking. The spring in the handle pushes the cable to reset the position of the latch & with the cable sticking it doesn't return to the correct position. It's a simple repair.
https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1620-what-have-you-done-to-your-range-rover-today?page=49#pid37133
Black Box Solutions are selling all Nanocom Evolution kits for 15% off with code XMAS22. UK purchasers can also take advantage of a VAT free purchase that reduces the price even further (provided it doesn't get noticed by customs). https://www.nanocom-diagnostics.com
Clive603 wrote:
If you are unfortunate enough to break plastic parts I've been impressed with the ability of Pattex superglue to rejoin things when used with the plastic primer pen thingy. Comes up it LiDL occasionally at sensible prices and, like all superglue related stuff, keeps well in the fridge. I'm told Pattex is a Loctite brand so it ought to be the real deal.
Won't do miracles but if you can avoid bending things when putting them back together it will hold the plastic projections on the back of trim panels well enough to get the clips home. Pretty good going in my book as there is next door to nowt to glue. Unfortunately around 50% failure rate on removal so be prepared for re-gluing.
Clive
Pattex superglue is available from Amazon https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pattex-Ultra-Gel-Super-Glue/dp/B0000WPL7U?th=1
Personally I would quite happily have the sunroof sealed up. I like having the extra illumination from a window in the roof but why on earth would you want to have a noisy breeze coming in the car from above? There is a perfectly decent climate control system built into P38 that provides fresh air at the desired temperature.
The Hankook MF31-1000 is currently available from Battery Megastore for £95.27 delivered with coupon 10%BLKFRI-HANKOOK https://www.batterymegastore.co.uk/product/hankook-heavy-duty-commercial-battery-mf31-1000/
I have ordered parts from RLD on several occasions & found they have good prices & good stock. Here in France if the part is in stock if I order before 5pm parts are delivered by noon next day.
I drove mine for several hundred miles with a blowing head gasket as I assumed that it was the exhaust blowing somewhere. Performance was unaffected it just got too embarassingly noisy to continue driving. I have no idea if it did any permanent damage driving it with the head gasket blowing but it's currently in the hands of V8 Developments waiting for them to get round to refurbishing the engine.
Gilbertd wrote:
Drained over 5 gallons of foul smelling stale petrol then dropped the fuel tank on the Classic. Did battle with hose clips and hoses that haven't moved in 32 years and finally gained access to the pump. 4 out of the 5 screws holding the old pump came out but, as usual, one put up a fight. Pump out, new one in and put it all back together. Went to the local garage, took out a mortgage and bought 2 gallons of petrol. Put that in the tank, tried starting it and nothing. Confirmed the pump was running, disconnected the fuel line at the filter and put my bit of hose with the priming bulb on it. Seems that 2 gallons isn't enough to cover the fuel pickup on the pump. This is going to get expensive......
In 1990 a litre of petrol cost about 40p which adjusting for inflation is about 80p in today's money so fuel cost was not the same issue it would be today.
Gilbertd wrote:
nigelbb wrote:
Yesterday I drove my 2001 Vogue up to Lincolnshire so that V8 Developments can totally recondition the engine
I bet you overshot the entrance. I have every time I've been there......
Amazingly I didn't miss the entrance. My satnav informed me I had arrived at my destination in the flat featureless Lincolnshire countryside with no sign of 'Cobweb Farm' but I drove slowly another fifty yards & saw the sign on my left.
Harv wrote:
Should be good for another 300,000 miles!
I hope so. I have owned the car for over eleven years. Its 21 years old & my aim is to spend a bit of money on it to make it as reliable as possible so it's good for another 21 years. I spend half my time in France where E85 (85% bioethanol) is widely available at about 80c/l versus E10 at €1.839 so running costs are much lower & I haven't had the cost of an LPG conversion,
Yesterday I drove my 2001 Vogue up to Lincolnshire so that V8 Developments can totally recondition the engine. It's been blowing from a leaky head gasket for a month or two & getting louder& louder. At least it made the 150 mile journey OK. The plan is to get it done over the next few months when they have a chance to work on it. Aside from reconditioning the engine they will be putting on a new Airtex water pump & a good quality OEM fan viscous coupling plus new HT leads for starters.
They showed me some engines that were ready to be shipped out. It's surprising to see the shiny aluminium rather than covered in oil.
Here is a list of what is going to be done:-
4.6L Top hat linered block
New pistons
New piston rings
New main bearings
New big End bearings
New cam bearings
New core plugs
Fully balanced assembly
Pocketing of pistons
Lapped and polished crank
High torque cam kit
Camshaft
Timing chain set
High rev Lifters
Running in oil and additive
Comp head gaskets
Comp head bolts
Fully reconditioned cylinder heads
Acid dipped and chemically cleaned
New valves
New guides
New valve stem seals
New valve springs
All required gaskets and seals
Labour
Fully refurbished rocker assemblies
Adjustable pushrods
Fit exchange front cover, including new oil pump gear and uprated oil pressure relief valve kit, fit exchange sump
Fully refurbished rocker covers
Uprated flex plate for flywheel
Removal and refit of engine including, plugs, filters, fluids etc
Lpgc wrote:
It is an interesting subject.
I wondered about setting up a makeshift system for the house or caravan using car parts... possible? I could work it out but if you have the answer already you'll save me the job lol - How powerful an electric motor would be needed to drive a car AC compressor? I know another motor or 2 would be needed to push air through the evaporator and reducer. Maybe use Hanson quick release fittings to make for a portable system?
For the domestic systems (and I suppose EV systems which can also supply cold air or heat?) how is the system reversed... Surely not as simple as reversing the pumping action / spinning the motor the other way?
I would guess that it would only work if you had a very small room although a caravan might be OK. When you consider the volume of air in a car versus a house or caravan you will know why the compressor is so tiny compared to that in a domestic A/C unit.
KCR wrote:
Found it now ... BTR2697LUM out of stock ... now I am searching for a substitute, I guess this kind of finisher is in many cars.
On the jaguarlandroverclassic.com site it says
"SUPERSESSION INFORMATION
This part has been superseded by one or more of the following parts
AWR2191LUM (AWR2191LUM - Land Rover Finisher-sunroof)"
& this part is available for £61.10 inc VAT https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/awr2191lum-finisher-sunroof.html
Gilbertd wrote:
I don't think anyone without the kit will have done the job when you can take the car in and get it tested for leaks and refilled for £50 or thereabouts. It isn't something that many people here will attempt.
ATS have a perpetual Groupon discount offer. Currently it's £37.99 for an AC recharge. At that price I don't know why anyone would attempt a DIY recharge.
https://www.groupon.co.uk/deals/ats-euromaster-5?deal_option=f726311d-bfd0-433c-afc1-419f0428134a
leolito wrote:
Well, yes and no, you have also deteriorating further hand and block which could be reconditioned and saved for another engine in the future. Do not know the policy of V8D (still pondering on how I will get my engine done and how), but from a mechanical perspective it would be a pity to totally ruin what left.
Sorry, I am a romantic :-)If you expect to use the car these 6 months, maybe not as "intensive" use as originally planned, Richard's idea is not bad at all. And will save you some money on the trailer trip to V8D!
I'm not planning on using the car at all except for the 125 mile journey to V8 Developments.