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Thanks Chris - noted. Just waiting for the temp sensor to turn up (recommended to do at the same time) and I'll be on to it pronto.

If the wiring for LEDs is more involved then I'll probably leave well alone. Binnacle doesn't look too bad to remove so could do this later if a bulb goes.

Cheers

Hi all,
In spite of having found a vehicle a year ago with nice dry carpet on the RHS transmission tunnel, my O rings now appear to be leaking.
I am hoping to sort this quite soon, adopting the 'cut through the side panel' approach. I am getting through about 1/2lt of coolant every 1000 miles so I'm hoping that this is the only problem (fingers tightly crossed) but I need to sort this out before worrying that it is something more sinister!

Whilst I have the binnacle out to remove the air ducting, I thought I'd look at replacing the dash lights with LEDs. I'm pretty sure I read that someone else has already done this (Marty maybe?). If so, is there a direct bulb replacement or is it more involved (ie fitting new bulb plugs etc)?

Thanks

Prior to my ownership of my 2000 4.0, it had been given a replacement torque converter. I have subsequently changed oil and filter (even though one could have assumed this would have been done at the time of TC replacement) and it is sweet.

As this all happened before I got the car I just wondered if it might have a bearing in this situation but I have no idea what the symptoms of a knackered TC might be........

From the paperwork I got with the car, it cost about £400 IIRC.

What actually would exercise me, if I didn't live in the middle of nowhere, is more the fact that MY internet service which I pay for under contract with BT, could be used by any third party FOC, and presumably slow down my available service speed.

Given that our house is not a hotspot and I'm pretty sure I didn't choose to opt out of FON, not sure how this comes about?

If, as I do, you live in a remote area and are the only house for at least 750m, then any hotspot is pretty specifically identifying an individual property.

Thankfully, I've checked out the map and we are not a hotspot (LOL) - I'd be f**king surprised if we were, given the pathetic broadband speed I'm paying through the nose for! Anyone who wants to traipse half a mile and then not have much service would be most welcome - I'd probably offer them a drink....

When I first got my P38 last year, I did quite a bit of crawling around underneath. I found that with some old lengths of 3" x 8" timbers I had kicking around, I could create a couple of 'staircases' that I drove the vehicle on to. With 2 lengths screwed together (one shorter one on top but aligned at one end) gave an easy 6" of lift. I made the ramps about 3ft long overall and as they were 8" wide, the tyres fit comfortably width-wise. I could add another level and get 9" if necessary. I found this worked really well and totally removed the need for jacking but this would obviously not work as well if you need to remove wheels (which at the time I didn't).

cheers chaps. I probably have an extension if needed (perks of being a redundant gadget hoarder!)

I will just have to identify the live wire as you suggest - just thought that as they were numbered it might be easy to tell.

Hi - I've just picked up a reversing camera with a 4.3 inch screen. I'm hoping to fit the screen somewhere around the recess beside the clock but as I'm awaiting delivery I'll have to play that one by ear. Has anyone else done this?

Although I suspect that some of you may scorn at this idea, I am keen to do it - I'm pretty good at knowing where the edges are but in an attempt to avoid possible car parking problems £27 seemed like a good investment :)

I originally thought of putting in sensors but the idea of irreversibly drilling 4 holes in the rear bumper was a bit of a no-no for me. I still have to drill a hole (beside the door button) in the tailgate but this looks quite straightforward.

I've just had the inside cover off the bottom tailgate where there is a electric connector to the reversing light with 4 small white wires numbered (L-R) 3, 4, 1 and 13 (with 1 and 13 seemingly sharing a connection). Can anyone please point me towards the wire to use to power the camera? Had a good look at RAVE but can't see any wiring info that helps - I found the wiring diagram and connector C0489 details but they are less than helpful in indicating which small wire does what!

Thanks in advance

Ant

Thanks for the feedback. Probably a non starter, although I do worry about his height. I'm 6'5" and struggle enough. Maybe an old mini with the front seats removed!

Modern cars are significantly safer f it comes to the worst case so will have a good look around nearer the time.
As to turning up the stereo and carrying on - my wife does that all the time....

Hi Everyone. Happy New Year - not posted for a while as I've been trying to reduce my life on line - quite therapeutic (albeit not necessarily helpful to online communities!).

My 4.0 2000 happily went through its MOT in November save for having a front wheel hub assembly replaced (which I knew in advance). I have found an independent Landrover specialist local to where I work and with a part I supplied (and paid for separately) the whole lot only cost £148 which I'm pretty chuffed about after 8 months ownership and 3000 miles. Local guy is very helpful, occasionally a little vague but I can forgive that!

We have used the Rangie for taking the recent canoe purchase to local rivers (Waveney Valley is particularly good) and I am really enjoying the driving experience. The whole family love it (including 2 dogs).

With regard to the 'diesel question', my Son will turn 17 in May and will be learning to drive. I have struck on the idea that getting him a late P38 Diesel to drive will possibly be a good option as:

  1. I/he should be able to insure it on a classic car policy.
  2. At 6ft 8" he fits in it.
  3. It will be safe and very slow.
  4. It will be a little less thirsty than my Petrol Lady.
  5. If it goes wrong, I have a parts bin to raid ;)

Am I bonkers in my thinking or does this make sense?
Also, apart from the common P38 issues that I'm already sort of aware of with mine, is there anything special to consider? (I assume the GEMS/THOR issue is redundant with diesels?).

Many thanks

Well - just a small update...

Have just returned home after a week and a 1000 mile round trip to Wales (and the environs), I can happily report that the 'old girl' didn't put a foot wrong.
Driving in Wales is a VERY DIFFERENT experience to driving in Norfolk and I have been introduced to a whole range of different creaks and noises - whilst these somewhat played on my paranoia, driving along at motorway speeds was a dream, so I'm assuming all is well for now!

I am planning to have her checked over prior to the MOT coming up in November as I have absolutely no point of reference as how things should sound and feel. I maybe suspect that the front diff is a bit whiney but I'm not sure?

I reckon to have averaged about 18 mpg which I'm mightily impressed with, given a roof rack and box, 4 passengers - all over 6ft, and 2 dogs! The fuel cost more than the holiday cottage accommodation!!

Hairiest part of the trip was a 'magical mystery tour' initiated by SWMBO which included a 6ft 6" narrow hump back bridge - photos to follow!

Gilbertd wrote:

It often isn't as most real mechanics have long since retired to be replaced with 'technicians', another name for parts fitters. Read a fault code and start changing bits until the fault goes away without really understanding what is happening and why.

You make an interesting point but to be fair, for the DIY'er at least, there is often no choice but to replace parts, therefore turning us in to unwilling 'fitters'. Many parts these days are not serviceable items and even if you can get them apart, finding spares is often tricky. As cars get older this situation only gets more prevalent - my 76 Lotus Elite is a good case in point - often the only option is to find as good a used part as possible. At least the P38 was produced in sufficient numbers to ensure that parts supply should be maintained for a good time to come.

Personally, unless you have cash to spend on a pure project basis, I can't really see the value.

Whilst I fully accept that 'a lot' of the perceived engine failure issues around the famous (or infamous?) 4.0/4.6 lt engines relate to a lack of historical maintenance, you can never be overly sure of 1. The service history of your engine (and therefore internal condition) and 2. The additional stress that the so called 'improvements' bring to bear on an older engine.

Unless you are carrying out a full rebuild (with possibly Top Hat addition) I would suggest that any works done may well bring about the demise of an engine sooner than if it had been left stock (but well maintained).

Just my 2p worth but each to their own....

Thanks for that - logged for future reference.
Not sure if my Hawkeye total allows for that level of 'interference'

Have a great weekend

Hi All,
If you do get nylon 30mm bar and have the means to cut it, what are the measurements for length that you need to cut and how do you use them to then calibrate the suspension? Sorry if this is in RAVE but it's too hot lol

https://www.westerntowing.co.uk/acatalog/PCD_Calculation.html

Hope that helps - all you need to do is measure the distance between 2 adjacent stud centres and enter that value (and number of studs) and it will give PCD (and popular wheel sizes)

HLR landrover shifnal

If you do a Google search for the above, a defunct link comes up regards 'Hollandrover' or 'HLR' for short.Google provides some historic (brief) detail but if you click on the link, it fails.

Wow Rob, stunning - won't be posting any photos of under my Bonnet!! But then, yours is 2 years younger so I guess that explains it :)

Just to clarify, I was originally looking at the image in 'post' form:
enter image description here

The 'copy' section there or the embed bit further right, didn't work.

Chris - keep the faith, I took 4 times of trying.
In an effort to help, please see the following. I was originally opening the image and copying it from there which didn't work.
Good Luck

Login to Imgur and select image:
enter image description here

When the image selected looks like this:

enter image description here

Ensure the green text area is highlighted and press copy (still not sure how you do this on Ipad?)

Select the image icon in RRpub post and paste the link:

enter image description here

Hope that helps.