Owners of most older cars struggle to find the odd bits and bobs - difference being with them is that there is usually a work around owing to their inherent simplicity. The likes of the P38 and newer cars will struggle as the electronic parts fail and become harder to find and far less likely to make do with something else. If values do start to increase, it may encourage re-manufacture of certain items as it becomes economically viable?

Whilst I intrinsically agree that the new product offering from JLR has strayed a long way from it's origins, it has to be said that they have done a stellar job in selling product. The older generation Defenders, whilst mustering a large 'cult' following, did not sell in anything like sufficient numbers to keep the company going. Although I personally much prefer the RR2/P38, I'm guessing that I (we on here) are in somewhat of a minority. Also, whilst we are keeping old Rangies on the road, which is great, we aren't doing much to directly help JLR or dealerships, given that most on here seem to do their own spannering and buying parts elsewhere.

What I still find sad is that JLR are still selling vehicles with way too many problems and seem to have a large network of Dealerships that don't really care. I appreciate that they aren't unique in this (and there are always exceptions to any rule) but if Skoda can do it, surely it's about time that JLR got themselves sorted out in that department?

Sorry to steal the thread - as you were!

Well - job done. Have to say, got a terrific service from Bearmach - ordered on Thursday PM, arrived yesterday afternoon.

Very straight forward - although the bodies of the old shocks had some rust, all the nuts came undone with a bit of grunt.
The lower end of the shocks have a handy 19mm welded nut to prevent them turning - other reviews of this job have suggested using straps to stop the shock from turning but not sure why you'd need to.

The creaking has all but stopped but there is still something there. I suspect in lubricating the bushes and other bits and bobs, I've probably improved the original issue anyway but the new shocks certainly won't hurt.

Bit bloody hot for laying under a Rangie though :)

Thanks Clive - will do. Happy coincidence - I bought a cheap impact gun last week :)

Out of interest - why not WD40? Does it evaporate too quickly or something?

Thanks Ant

2 BOGE shocks on order so will keep you posted.

Thanks

Thanks Clive - if anyone does come up with the sizes, I'd be interested in the correctly turned 'tool'.

As an update to earlier, I've just been outside to see if some silicone grease would help and found that the 'creaking' (and it really does sound like an old door from a Hammer Horror movie) would actually appear to be coming from quite high up by the front wheel - so much for my hearing lol.

It could be the top of the shock absorber as these look like the only thing that the last owner but 1 didn't replace - I know all the bushes were done - the LOB1 did a major overhaul of the underneath as he bought the car from a farmer who parked it up in a field for a couple of years after failing an MOT!!

I literally only have to push the chassis slightly to create the noise. All the rubber behind the wheel/hub looks good, as do all the bushes. At least that's a relief for now.

Thanks

Hi All,
Started to notice a creaking when I haul my bulk in and out of the car - haven't noticed it during driving but there could be too much other noise!

I think I've narrowed it down to the rear radius arm/trailing arm bush. Not sure if it is a major issue and if it could be resolved with some lube?
If it needs replacing, it would appear (according to RAVE) that I need LRT-64-001 tool to compress a new bush so that it fits into the hole. I cannot find one in the UK and don't really want to spend ££££ anyway.

Has anyone got a trick for this - I can press the bush in or out OK as I have a 30t press which should be up to the job but how to compress the bush to get it started?
I guess poly bushes/Tophats would fit but everyone seems to suggest OEM bushes are best.......

Thanks in advance
Ant

Message centre is fine on mine - I know some can lose illumination.

I guess I'll just live with it - if I wasn't used to more modern dials in my other daily driver then I probably wouldn't have thought about it.
Thanks anyway :)

Hi - sorry if this seems a dumb question but I just wondered if it is possible to illuminate the dash without putting the head lights (or any lights) on?

I find the dash a little dim without the lights on in daylight and obviously whilst it isn't a big problem, if there is a solution which avoids me forgetting that the lights are on, that would be great.....

Thanks
Ant

Is there scope for having an LPG tank at home? (Like the calor gas ones that some folk have).

LPG isn't something I'm into for my car as I don't do enough miles to justify the cost but if you are, this might be worth looking at (assuming you have the space and the economics stack up). I appreciate that doesn't help if you are away from home but it does reduce overall reliance on petrol.

I appreciate we are likely to be preaching to the converted here but I totally agree with this thread.

Having owned a wide range of classic cars in my time and currently doing up a couple of 70's Loti, I am somewhat in awe of my beast. Dare I say it, I'm having to get used to being able to go out in a car and coming home again unaided!

Given some pretty horrific fails over the last few years, it takes some getting used to :)

I have wanted a P38 since the early 2000's - always thought they were way more stylish and useable than a classic RR - don't get me wrong, I absolutely adore (is that the right word?) the 2 door classic - it is an absolute icon and I would have one in my dream garage at the drop of a hat. Along with the S2/S3 Landrovers - they are epically cool but I couldn't use them on a daily basis.

Even at nearly 20 years old, everyone who has seen my P38 over the last couple of weeks (since I've had it back on the road) has been somewhat wowed by how good it is and perhaps more astonishingly, how clean it is - apart from a little corrosion on the lower tailgate and a bit on the slam panel under the bonnet (and nothing to write home about), there is hardly a mark on her (forgiving the odd light scratch).

I have no illusions that I will need to keep on top of things - I have the ever present oil leak so the rocker gaskets, valley gasket and front end crank oil seal and gasket will get done at some point but for now (with over 150 miles under my belt), I'm just really enjoying the experience.

If everyone cottons on to these, values could do the 'classic' thing. Would be nice, as it increases the likelihood of more being kept long term and not broken, but right now, I'd happily remain under the radar.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9EHQJDhxZc0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zjYsY9ncFx4

Definitely worth trying before shelling out on a replacement.
Good luck

Thanks - Pop rivets all the way. Got them in stock so all good when it turns up.

Thanks Gilbert - I have followed your advice and think the cooling system is OK.

I changed the pollen filters earlier on and they were filthy and had loads of leaves in - I will try the full bore approach and hopefully that will sort it.
It just sounds like a load of crickets at the moment which is a little annoying - interferes with the V8 soundtrack!

Following on from earlier - I've now done about 30 miles testing.

Everything is fine thus far. Reset all windows except the front passengers - it is jumping on the toothed arc about half way up. If you stop and lower a little it will go back up but I can't 'reset' it whilst it is like this. Managed to find a new regulator for £28 (no motor, which I'll swap) so hopefully that should sort it.

Having never really driven one of these, I'm loving it! Taking a while to familiarise myself to all the noises it makes and I've definitely got some sort of foreign object in the passenger side blower motor (sounds like a leaf or bit of paper vibrating and changes as fan speeds up or slows down) Are these easy enough to access? - I may try blowing it out with an air line. I'm guessing the glove box needs to come out?

Anyway - a happy owner so far :)

Hi everyone,
So, just refitted everything as I hope it should be and started the engine. Thanks for the tip about the rag under the expansion tank - saved a fair bit of water going everywhere!

So far everything looks great but I have a couple of questions (apologies for any potential dumbness!) -

1. I put in 6 litres of OAT coolant and have topped up with water but only got about 3-4 litres in (with engine running). I had the heater on as advised and after a while, and a large burp from the tank, the heater is blowing nice and hot so I'm pretty sure that the heater matrix is full. I have turned everything off and am now waiting for things to cool. The advice is that the system takes over 11 lts - I did flush into the top engine hose to wash out all the old blue coolant and also flushed the heater matrix until it ran clear so am I right to assume that there may well have been a couple of ltrs in the system? When the tank 'burped' it looked like the liquid was being pumped so I also assume that the thermostat (new) had opened?

2. Will I be OK for a short test run and watch the needle (in case the thermostat didn't open)? (Sorry - slightly paranoid from previous experience).

3. When I reconnected the battery, the doors didn't lock but various 'window not set' codes were displayed. I have locked and unlocked the car and everything appears to function OK and the error codes appear to have cleared - is this normal/correct?

Thanks in advance and apologies for my potential over cautiousness, just keen to get out on the road and get some mileage done....

Also, I personally feel that the P38 is due a change of heart from the general view. It has been much maligned over the years - these are undoubtedly complex cars (although, seemingly still within the DIYer ability) and suffer from neglect very badly and have therefore developed (IMO) a much undeserved poor reputation (laugh at me later when I break down lol). I'm also restoring a 70's Lotus which suffers a similar reputation - again, they need looking after and are well crafted tools.

So - very much worth the effort to restore if you can swing the spanners yourself and invest the time and energy required to bring any car back to health.

Not sure about 1 of a kind as I've seen a few out there whilst looking myself but it is a great colour none the less.

Welcome from a fellow newbie - only had mine about a month and just working through a few elements that I hope will avoid being stranded (see my intro post for details).

I'd say that 125k is about average for the year - I'd keep doing oil changes for both engine and gearbox (annually or 5k?) - having just done GB oil and filter, I can confirm that it is quite straightforward. Bit of advice - WD40 the GB sump bolts in advance and use a 1/4inch drive to undo so you can feel if they are going to give and not snap off! Also read somewhere that changing the engine oil and refilling before changing the filter keeps oil in the pick up pipe - not sure of the credence for this but it seems to make sense.

I opted for a lower spec car - no heated seats or screen and no sat nav and very limited seat electrics. IMO the satnav is more of a comedy add on these days and the rest I can happily live without. I was also lucky (?) to find a non sunroof car. I'm 6' 5" so prefer the added headroom.

Where abouts are you?

Good Luck

Cheers Rob - about 2 miles from Loddon.
Snap - Oslo Blue is a great colour btw