Thanks for that guys. I will be slowly working through the above.
Coming to an end of a Boxster project that I’ve had in the garage for the last couple of months, actually probably three months but will have room soon to get cracking on the P38.
Funny you should mention fuel pressure. Took it to a friendly Indy who connected another code reader and he mentioned something about low fuel pressure.
Would low fuel pressure give reasonable low rev/power performance and reduced higher rev power/performance?
Fitted the used originals today. Low and behold the readings on the Nanocom were perfect and all is well at the moment. Result!
Thank you.
If those figures look generally okay, I wonder what the problem is, why the car is so slow?
New day, new readings.
Bank A, idle. Varies between 0.05-0.78 hot or cold
Bank B, 2.5K rpm. Varies between 0.07-0.79 hot or cold
MAF readings
Hot at idle. 28
Hot at 2.5K rpm. 69
Thanks for that. Will have another check tomorrow.
Not sure what you mean by if they’re not varying. Should they be fluttering up and down if they are updating every second?
I am just winging this so be patient. :)
These readings taken stationary with a warm engine.
The MAF sensor on idle reads 29.
The MAF sensor when running at 2500 rpm is reading 66.
The O2, sensor on idle, bank, A 0.73 – bank B, 0.78
The O2 sensor at 2500 rpm, bank, A 0.59 – bank B, 0.66
Hopefully that is the right information.
Just going to connect and test.
I take it I am looking for these values with a warm engine ? Do I check them on idle or do I run the car through it’s rev range?
Thanks for that. Not used that facility yet!
Going to put it on my sons diagnostic reader in the next few days.
Can you tell me what the readings should be from the sensors and the MAF please?
Ordered a pair of used originals today so fingers crossed
Had time to pull both connectors to the fronts, squirted with contact cleaner and replugged.
Miraculously the car goes to all 3 heights perfectly. Front L/H, (from memory) shows height now only 10mm out on standard height.
Will sort out some new OE sensors, fit and report.
Thanks...
Got it. Thanks.
Good point, but definitely not the transmission. I serviced it changing oil and filters when I first got the car about 15 K ago. What I meant was, you floor it, there is generally hesitation, and then it tries to rev out but sort of struggles to gain revs. It will go through the whole rev range if you accelerate slowly and if you do, you will eventually get to 100 mph absolutely flat out with a following wind
Normal scenario, dawdling car in front at about 40 mph, apply foot to accelerator to activate kickdown and surge forwards . Hold your breath to see if you can pass car within a far too long period!
I will pop underneath the car tomorrow and check out the lambda sensors as far as I can.
As far as I’m aware, everything is original on the car. It is in great condition apart from the fact it is so slow!
Would a more professional code reader give any more answers?
What is a great response. Thank you. I replace the front sensors with all pattern ones. About a year – 18 months ago. I will try disconnecting and reconnecting the offside front one just in case and giving it a squirt of contact cleaner.
If that doesn’t work, maybe I will bite the bullet and get a pair of genuine sensors.
Yes, a P38.
Interesting. Would you say that it would be a positive thing to replace the lambda sensors?
Possibly also the MAF? Happy to do so, if they are faulty.
My 2001 very nice 90K mile RR drives beautifully. Smooth and quiet but floor the peddle and you get hesitation, some more revs and not a lot else!
Now is the time to rectify this! Help please.
I took the car to an indy a couple of weeks ago and he cleared all faults.
On my Nanocom now, this is what it shows on faults.
https://i.imgur.com/A6zB8Vu.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ZFWxzgF.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/OllCcq3.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/UKeQAzr.jpg
And from the Indys code reader
https://i.imgur.com/k1JwRE8.jpg
I would be most grateful for some pointers to restore its power. Thanks.
