The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
179 posts

I may be thick, how do you use this and do you connect direct to pump?

Richard, you say yours was running at 120 psi.

How did you measure this?

I did overhaul the pump and fit new seals in 2019. That was only about 5K miles ago.

I will have a go at doing that tomorrow.

What about the pressure switch message? It doesn’t really mean anything to me.

I was towing my car trailer a couple of weeks ago when a fault was registered. I checked with my Nanocom and from memory before I erased the fault, it stated something like, "front n/s height sensor out of range". I should have taken the precise wording!

I assume that was the height sensor and will probably need replacing, (All are original, 80K miles, 2001 car).

Yesterday, after about 20 miles, another fault came up. "PRESSURE SWITCH IS NOT CHANGING STAT ALWAYS OFF". I had my gizmo with me so pulled over and erased fault. For the remainder of the journey and return home, all was well.

Advice on those two please......The first makes sense and I assume that I should replace the height sensor some time, (all in agreement?) but the other one??

I have used them before.

Decided to invest in the proper tool. Son is a mechanic so will pass on to him when used.

Thanks again Richard.....

As of some Ebay purchases, not all is there!

I have the 4x Allen head 8mm bolts and washers.

I don't have the 2x metal plates or the Rivnuts.

Are the 2 x metal plates just for templates?

Can you point me in the direction of the correct Rivnuts.


Thanks guys.

The Paddock instructions are perfect.

Hi. I have a new dog guard and the plastic roof brackets but no instructions as to how to fit.

Is there a , "how to"?

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Just seen no10chris's reply.

Not sure where you live but I bit the bullet and ordered a Nanocom yesterday.

Thanks to David for the loan of his. I have the benefit now of using one and that limited experience will help me to get cracking once it is delivered!

Watch this space.........

Running out of time for today but have time tomorrow.

Will crack on with this.

I’m sure will hope this is useful for other people as well.

Thanks to everyone so far.

On various options it says locked.

I assume you have to get a lead, plug it into a PC, go onto the site and have this unlocked. Of course I could be wrong!

That sounds like a plan.

All I have to do is work out how to do that on the nanocom!

Any hints will be gratefully received.

I checked that on the nanocom. It stated the throttle was 96% open. I’m sure 4% wouldn’t make any difference!

I sold the 400 BHP TVR last year. Yes the engine would’ve been the sort of thing these cars needed.
Toying with the idea of changing the camshaft and lifters at the end of the summer. Is it worth putting something in non-standard? For instance one of the Real Steel profiles? If so will it self map? Is it worth it for the few extra BHP that you probably won’t notice? Although if the camshaft is worn then it is probably only producing 150/160 BHP quite possibly.

On the other hand I could be completely wrong and this can be normal…………..

I am guessing without doing any investigating that everything at the front of the engine i.e. radiator and Aircon radiator will need to be removed to replace the camshaft?

Had an initial fiddle. It certainly isn’t straightforward.

So far everything I can access seems to be normal including the air suspension which is brilliant. It was only spot on – 2 mm out from the target levels.

Various items seem to be locked, not sure where I go from there at the moment. Due to this I haven’t been able to access anything relevant on the engine although I did find that it seemed to be limited to 100 miles an hour. You have an option to change this to 120 which I did and when I was out on my personal airfield, it managed 108 mph!

Strange that the feeling when you accelerate flat out is that either it is an under powered engine fitted in a heavy body or that for some reason it is holding back. It accelerates very smoothly but not as urgent as I remember from a 4.6 I drove about 15 years ago!

Maybe I’m just used to the other couple of cars in my stable and my old 5.5 RV8 TVR, Maybe.

any pointers?

Thanks to David who has lent me his Nanacom.

I shall be having a go with it tomorrow………

That would be excellent as my son, (AA patrolman) couldn’t get any thing from the system with his gear.

I will give you a ring tomorrow if that’s okay. I still have your number.

I will speak to my son who is a mechanic. He has the usual mechanics laptops for diagnosing. I will take it from there. Thanks!

Thanks for the advice. I should start on the electrical side first I guess.
I am well versed in the Rover V8. I’ve built a 5.5 unit for my old TVR, 400 BHP.

How can I check the MAF, O2 sensors, TPS et cetera? Or is it just a case of replacement?

I have a very nice 2001 4.6 Rangie. It has never been very fast but drives very smoothly, quietly and sedately.

Having had various Rover engined TVRs with loads more power I am wondering if like TVRs is camshaft wear a problem with these engines? My experience is that 70–100 K miles is about the limit for a camshaft. Wear is hard to detect due to the hydraulic tappets so my question is: is this a common occurrence with the 4.0 –4.6 L engines?

Symptoms: when you plant your right foot, the car accelerates but seems very slightly hesitant and very slow for the revs to rise. On my private airfield, I clocked a maximum of 100 miles an hour and that took a while to achieve!

Car has done a genuine 80K

Of course it could be something else but I am at a loss as to what it could be.

Any ideas would be great!