My 2001 very nice 90K mile RR drives beautifully. Smooth and quiet but floor the peddle and you get hesitation, some more revs and not a lot else!
Now is the time to rectify this! Help please.
I took the car to an indy a couple of weeks ago and he cleared all faults.
On my Nanocom now, this is what it shows on faults.
https://i.imgur.com/A6zB8Vu.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ZFWxzgF.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/OllCcq3.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/UKeQAzr.jpg
And from the Indys code reader
https://i.imgur.com/k1JwRE8.jpg
I would be most grateful for some pointers to restore its power. Thanks.
Suspension has been behaving itself for a while which has been great!
Coming home the other night I was disappointed with the ride as it seemed too harsh and firm. Light on "standard" on the dash so thought this was strange.
Just assessed the situation and standard is now running higher than normal but just below, "High" profile.
Car raises and lowers through all the range as far as I can tell but levels are not correct.
If I have loaded photos correctly, these are the live settings as shown on the Nanocom. Front right shows especially low but actually isn't!
https://i.imgur.com/JwMOYcG.jpg
Hi guys. Urgent answer required if possible.
Suspension just dropped completely to the stops and all four lights permanently on the dash by the switch. Plugged in Nanocom which usually automatically switches on and I have nothing. Any ideas as I’m a few miles from home. Thank you.
If it is then great!
Since I've had my P38 the A/C has had a minor leak. Regas at start of summer and all is well. By next year, no A/C.
Need to do a couple of things on the car so just removed the front bumper, (rear wash pump has failed). Checked what I can see with a UV torch but can't see any leaks.
Car is a 2001 and only done 88K. Tempted to change the condenser rad and drier while I have it exposed.
Question: Do these leak in any particular area or is the consensus just replace the condenser and drier?
Always had occasional issues since converting back from springs about 3 years ago. Usual slow to go up, that's all. No dropping corners or such like. Could go many weeks without a problem. Not now...
Faults listed were front L/H & R/H height sensors plus an unknown, (think it was called something else).
I replaced the height sensors but this didn't improve matters. If I leave the car and it settles a bit, occasionally it will take ages to go to correct height, sometimes a few hundred yards, sometimes 10 miles!
If I clear all faults, all is good and ride height is achieved.
Decided to check pump the other day as the periods of, "playing up" are becoming more frequent. Start car, light flashes to achieve correct height but pump remains silent! Now when I clear unknown fault, pump fires up and problem solved.
I will add that I renewed all O rings and seals to valve block and pump when I brought the car back to EAS.
It seems to me that sometimes the pump isn't asked to switch on, any ideas.
Strangely today after the car had been sitting on level ground unused for two weeks, I started up and within about a minute it was at ride height. Later today, I reversed to hitch a trailer on a slope. Switched of ignition, got out the car and a clicking noise was heard, (valve block opening?) and the car settled down a few inches for no apparent reason!!! So annoying
I really need to solve this as it is ripping the joy out of driving this car...Help please.
As title. Do these pumps usually fail?
What is the best way to access this.? Looks a little awkward to get to at first glance.
I have the original head unit in my 2001 P38.
It is hooked up to a parrot hands-free kit and works very well. I am able to playback music through the parrot as well as using it as a hands-free.
As of a couple of days ago, switch on the radio and nothing. Occasionally I will get a thump, thump from the rear bass speaker, but nothing else.
Any ideas?
I converted my P38 back to EAS about 3-4 years ago. I renewed all the seals on the pump and valve block as well.
All has been reasonably OK, the odd hiccup when it decides to take 2-3 minutes of driving before it raises the suspension to standard ride height.
Yesterday, it started low, I drove it carefully for about 15 mins and it remained low. returned home and swapped cars, damn!
When car occasionally settles low, it does evenly.
I plugged the Nanocom in to check. Came up with invalid fault plus front L/H & R/H height sensors are out of range. Reset and used the car today, no problems apart from a 5 minute stop after about 20 miles when the car must of settled and on restart took about 1/2 mile to achieve normal level...
I know it is impossible to say but does that point to the sensors being faulty and need replacing?
Actually the pipe has disintegrated where it enters the offside rear box. Run back from Heathrow this morning, I detected a rise in volume which was out of character!
Can this one box be replaced on its own or is it recommended to renew the pair?
Looks like a minefield on Ebay so would be happy to accept any recommendations.
I have just discovered that the rubber twin button press thingy on my fob has gone missing!
I noticed that you can buy these separately, (Amazon etc).
Two questions please.
Is there a recommended supplier of these?
Next step, obtain a spare key fob. What is the best way to go about this?
Thanks in advance.
Only a minor problem with my cruise control on my 2001 4.6.
Cruise control is working but if for instance I set it at 50 mph it slowly drops down three or four mph and usually stays there occasionally going up one or two mph.
When I got the car this was always stable.
Is there anything that can be done or is this just a little annoying?
I was towing my car trailer a couple of weeks ago when a fault was registered. I checked with my Nanocom and from memory before I erased the fault, it stated something like, "front n/s height sensor out of range". I should have taken the precise wording!
I assume that was the height sensor and will probably need replacing, (All are original, 80K miles, 2001 car).
Yesterday, after about 20 miles, another fault came up. "PRESSURE SWITCH IS NOT CHANGING STAT ALWAYS OFF". I had my gizmo with me so pulled over and erased fault. For the remainder of the journey and return home, all was well.
Advice on those two please......The first makes sense and I assume that I should replace the height sensor some time, (all in agreement?) but the other one??
Hi. I have a new dog guard and the plastic roof brackets but no instructions as to how to fit.
Is there a , "how to"?
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
I have a very nice 2001 4.6 Rangie. It has never been very fast but drives very smoothly, quietly and sedately.
Having had various Rover engined TVRs with loads more power I am wondering if like TVRs is camshaft wear a problem with these engines? My experience is that 70–100 K miles is about the limit for a camshaft. Wear is hard to detect due to the hydraulic tappets so my question is: is this a common occurrence with the 4.0 –4.6 L engines?
Symptoms: when you plant your right foot, the car accelerates but seems very slightly hesitant and very slow for the revs to rise. On my private airfield, I clocked a maximum of 100 miles an hour and that took a while to achieve!
Car has done a genuine 80K
Of course it could be something else but I am at a loss as to what it could be.
Any ideas would be great!
I stupidly let the battery go flat on my 2001 P38, (don’t ask).
When the dash requested me to reset sunroof and windows, I did but when the drivers window reached its full height it went into this clicking Ratchet type sound which I’m sure isn’t very good!
Does this mean that I have a worn component? If so, Can someone tell me so I can order the part pre-stripping down.
Of course it might just be an adjust or other repair.
Interested to know if someone has had this experience.
Cheers.
Used the Rangie first time for several days yesterday.
Strangely, after about 3-4 miles, dash bonged and it displayed, “overheating gearbox, consult handbook “.
It can’t be overheating in this weather after a few miles.
For the rest of the journey it bonged and displayed about every 10 minutes.
Any idea?
I used the car the other day, first time in a couple of weeks. Car was pulling left for several miles and hot smell from O/S calliper.
Logic states that it was temporarily seized.
Car is always garaged, 77K miles.
Is it worth stripping or go straight for a new calliper, (I guess they are fairly reasonable?).
I am trying to sort out why there isn't a power supply working at my tow socket for the R/H indicator
It has the Euro multi pin socket. R/H indicator works on the car but not at the socket.
It seems that the correct wire at the car is a blue feed which is dead at the socket.
Just wondering, are the trailer indicators fused separately?
If so, where will I find the fuse?
If not, where is this blue wire fed from? All connections in the socket are sound, no corrosion so.......
Thanks in advance........
I believe this is a common problem.
I have partial numerals some of the time and occasionally it goes back to full numerals but is getting worse.
Is there a cure?
Also, Merry Christmas to everyone and thanks for all the help so far. I must admit having retired at the beginning this year and with Covid, my fuel consumption through lack of use is amazing!
Stupid, stupid, stupid!
Loaded a large door into the back of the car and thought it would be fine to drive a few miles with the lower tailgate down.
Warning on dashboard stating that the tail gate was open so I thought that wasn’t a problem.
Suspension lights were flashing by the rocker switch as it couldn’t settle on normal ride height with tail gate open and I thought that was okay.
Unloaded door, started car up with all doors shut and now all the lights are flashing next to the rocker switch. Message on dash says maximum 35 miles an hour.
How do I clear this and get back to normal please?
