I was towing my car trailer a couple of weeks ago when a fault was registered. I checked with my Nanocom and from memory before I erased the fault, it stated something like, "front n/s height sensor out of range". I should have taken the precise wording!
I assume that was the height sensor and will probably need replacing, (All are original, 80K miles, 2001 car).
Yesterday, after about 20 miles, another fault came up. "PRESSURE SWITCH IS NOT CHANGING STAT ALWAYS OFF". I had my gizmo with me so pulled over and erased fault. For the remainder of the journey and return home, all was well.
Advice on those two please......The first makes sense and I assume that I should replace the height sensor some time, (all in agreement?) but the other one??
Hi. I have a new dog guard and the plastic roof brackets but no instructions as to how to fit.
Is there a , "how to"?
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
I have a very nice 2001 4.6 Rangie. It has never been very fast but drives very smoothly, quietly and sedately.
Having had various Rover engined TVRs with loads more power I am wondering if like TVRs is camshaft wear a problem with these engines? My experience is that 70–100 K miles is about the limit for a camshaft. Wear is hard to detect due to the hydraulic tappets so my question is: is this a common occurrence with the 4.0 –4.6 L engines?
Symptoms: when you plant your right foot, the car accelerates but seems very slightly hesitant and very slow for the revs to rise. On my private airfield, I clocked a maximum of 100 miles an hour and that took a while to achieve!
Car has done a genuine 80K
Of course it could be something else but I am at a loss as to what it could be.
Any ideas would be great!
I stupidly let the battery go flat on my 2001 P38, (don’t ask).
When the dash requested me to reset sunroof and windows, I did but when the drivers window reached its full height it went into this clicking Ratchet type sound which I’m sure isn’t very good!
Does this mean that I have a worn component? If so, Can someone tell me so I can order the part pre-stripping down.
Of course it might just be an adjust or other repair.
Interested to know if someone has had this experience.
Used the Rangie first time for several days yesterday.
Strangely, after about 3-4 miles, dash bonged and it displayed, “overheating gearbox, consult handbook “.
It can’t be overheating in this weather after a few miles.
For the rest of the journey it bonged and displayed about every 10 minutes.
I used the car the other day, first time in a couple of weeks. Car was pulling left for several miles and hot smell from O/S calliper.
Logic states that it was temporarily seized.
Car is always garaged, 77K miles.
Is it worth stripping or go straight for a new calliper, (I guess they are fairly reasonable?).
I am trying to sort out why there isn't a power supply working at my tow socket for the R/H indicator
It has the Euro multi pin socket. R/H indicator works on the car but not at the socket.
It seems that the correct wire at the car is a blue feed which is dead at the socket.
Just wondering, are the trailer indicators fused separately?
If so, where will I find the fuse?
If not, where is this blue wire fed from? All connections in the socket are sound, no corrosion so.......
Thanks in advance........
I believe this is a common problem.
I have partial numerals some of the time and occasionally it goes back to full numerals but is getting worse.
Is there a cure?
Also, Merry Christmas to everyone and thanks for all the help so far. I must admit having retired at the beginning this year and with Covid, my fuel consumption through lack of use is amazing!
Stupid, stupid, stupid!
Loaded a large door into the back of the car and thought it would be fine to drive a few miles with the lower tailgate down.
Warning on dashboard stating that the tail gate was open so I thought that wasn’t a problem.
Suspension lights were flashing by the rocker switch as it couldn’t settle on normal ride height with tail gate open and I thought that was okay.
Unloaded door, started car up with all doors shut and now all the lights are flashing next to the rocker switch. Message on dash says maximum 35 miles an hour.
How do I clear this and get back to normal please?
Came back last night using all unlit country lanes. My, the lights are awful!
Is there a way to improve this?
My P38 has heated seats which do not work.
When I switch them on I can hear a relay clicking under the dash so I assume wiring on that side is all okay. Is it a common problem that these fail?
The remainder of the car is in very good condition and apart from the satnav everything works!
Now that winter is upon us, almost, I would like to fix this if I can. I assume that it may well be the heating elements that have failed. Is this a common fault or could it be something else?
It wa all going so well.
I refitted the air suspension several weeks ago and binned the springs, great move. All was working faultlessly. Existing pump, valvblock and other original components working like a dream, lovely.
Car this morning was sat a little lower, hmm. Started her up, lower access light solid and the normal light flashing. Waited a minute with engine running, no change. Moved off and within a hundred yards, all normal. Continued for my 8m mile journey and all sound.
Second outing this pm. Car sat parked and low on the driveway, hmm again. Started engine, same solid light on access position and flashing on normal position. Stuck now on access, no normal available.
When I switched the engine off and withdrew the key, I could here a clicking from the pump area.
There aren't any messages on the dash.
Bit of advice please.
I recently converted my recently acquired P38 from springs back to air. All went well and it drives..... well, floats along.
The air works well, does its job and keeps all 4 corners up. My concern is, are the dampers doing their job? They are the original 19 year old dampers that are not leaking.
Straight roads are fine. Rough pot holed, unmade lanes are handled brilliantly, (in my opinion compared to our RAV4 for instance). Speed humps are dispatched with ease.
The big, "BUT" is country lanes, switching right, left, right etc are awful. The car steers like a boat, it induces travel sickness in my wife who never suffers that way. I could outrun it down the lanes in a 1.2 Micra! It actually doesn't seem that safe if trying anywhere near, "pressing on".
My Mercedes ML320 is like a sports car by comparison.
Are my dampers shot? Do they all do this? Can the situation be improved? If so, what are the best ride dampers available?
Please don't say, "TADTS". Pleeese!
Probably been asked to hundred times. My rear windscreen washer isn't working, probably hasn't worked since I bought the car about six weeks ago.
A bit of Internet reading has shown that quite often it is the pump. Am I right in assuming there are three pumps on one windscreen bottle? If so, I can see the bottle underneath the battery. Can this be accessed through the offside front wheel arch after removing the liner or is there a better method?
Thanks in advance.
The near side, rear passenger door rubber, external glass seal has perished for some strange reason.
I can’t find one anywhere and wondered if someone. (anyone) would have one sitting around that they wouldn’t mind parting with?
I would really appreciate you guys having a look in your garages.
Unfortunately when I bought my P38 recently it only came with one key.
I know the day will come when I can’t find the key or some other age-related misdemeanour!
What is the best route to obtain a spare?
I accidentally posted this on the electrical section so I thought I would post again on here.
Yes another irritation.
Only had my P38 for a number of weeks and all is going reasonably well. Converted back to air suspension and a handful of other little niggles sorted out. Just returned from a blast down a dual carriageway with all the windows open and the headlinIng has dropped from the sunroof backwards. I guess it was loose and with the wind flying about in the car it has surrendered to gravity!
Done a bit of reading and don't fancy having a go at this myself but quite happy to let an expert renew or refix as necessary.
I am based in the Dorking, Surrey area. Does anyone know of anyone who could sort this out for me?
Thanks in advance.
Now I know these cars are full of electrical conundrums but this is a bit weird.
I was sitting having a nice relaxing cup of tea on the patio, P38 parked up about 20 foot away then I heard a strange double clicking noise, like two clicks one after the other. A short while later this happened again and then repeated every few minutes. On investigating, this noise which sounded like the central locking engaging or disengaging was coming from the car. I believe I can see a slight movement in the door buttons but it isn't locking and unlocking as I would've thought. I locked the car with the fob and that seemed to stop it.
Even stranger later , I started the car up and this occasional clicking continued with the engine running! How very strange. I had to go somewhere later this afternoon and the car behaved itself and this clicking didn't occur while driving.
I recently purchased my P38 which was entirely standard apart from some aftermarket light guards fitted front and rear. They will have to go!
I'm just in the process of removing one and have found that to fit them you have to drill holes in the bodywork! What the bejeezus is wrong with people!
I don't want the guards but I also don't want these captive rivets sticking out the sides of my wings. What is the fix apart from sending it to the body shop, having the holes filled and the wings sprayed? Is there something else laterally thinking that can be done?