Does one really need locking nuts on 15 or so year old wheels? Desperate thieves?
I replaced mine and it does raise the lid. Make sure the latch is working properly. The latch was interfering with the lid on mine.
Wow I use Orangebean for those sites! Lol
Put your meter on and pull each fuse one by one to find the draw. I did this when I could not get the correct reading. I found that when I pulled the diagnostic fuse it dropped. Stupid me had left the nanocom attached to the obdii port. Once disconnected I got the right reading.
You should be able to isolate the circuit that is responsible.
Check Panhard Rod Bushings front and rear. Only replace with Genuine. Aftermarket like allmakes are junk.
When you are under there check all other bushings.
Check you intermediate steering shaft for wear. Have someone rock the steering while you look for play.
Check that your steering box is centered. If you had an alignment done after the drag/track rods were done this should be ok. If not get an alignment.
My passenger seat vibrates while driving but I have eliminated the death wobble completely. The worst death wobble I had was when the front drive shaft uni-joint let go.
Man that was scary! Luckily it stayed together and didn't hit the transmission.
Oh just remembered the bushings where the radius arms connect to the chassis are a good culprit for the wobble also.
I am having similar issues right now and I agree the little LED is hard to see from outside a locked truck. Especially in a lit up area.
I'm going to watch this as I would love an LED on the dash to do this function.
I'm was also going to put an LED for the ABS pump and EAS compressor. I know someone has already done the LEDs for the pump and compressor but could not find the info.
C244 (up to 99MY)
C0792 (from 99MY) 8 pin white
1 Ignition switch position I power
2 Batter power
3 Ignition switch position II power
4 Ground
5 Left heated windshield relay control
6 Control panel illumination
7 Compressor clutch control
8 Condensor fan motor control
Put a Volt tester on pin 6 and check with lights on and off. If pin 6 is getting signal the problem is in the HEVAC unit itself.
Common spots to leak are:
I was just kidding! I'm not even Canadian. I've lived here for 14 years, originally from Ireland.
Canadian French is strange and varies depending on whether you are in Quebec or not. I'm in Sudbury which has a large french Canadian population but they have there own slang. Driving anywhere apart from Montreal I would say there are polite drivers. Montreal drivers are a special bunch. Never call a Canadian an American especially in Rural areas.
It's on the way. If it fixes my issue I'm a lucky man. Can't wait to drive my truck again!
As per usual, Marty is full of useful info! Thanks!
I'm not swapping the BECM because of the ECU. I fried a circuit in my BECM last weekend and now my engine does not shut down with the key properly. I'll hook up my nanocom tomorrow and see if I can find the code you speak of. Thx.
Roger-B wrote:
does the HEVAC not close it when you press the recirculation button?
I was thinking the same thing but thought maybe I didn't know something about how it worked.
Gilbertd wrote:
and if you can't figure out exactly what the problem is, there's quite a few decent guides to the common faults that can be found at http://www.rangerovers.net/newrremedies.html although it is a little out of date now with some of the advice as it hasn't been updated since the original site was taken over by a Canadian company who allow it to be run by the main reason this forum has been created.
Hey now, us Canadians are not all bad. However it is the reason I'm here also!
Has anyone swapped a Bosch ECU using nanocom evolution. I ripped out the SAI on my truck and I am going to swap the ECU to get rid of the CEL and hopefully stop it from running rich (30L/100km Avg. right now vs. (19L/100km Avg. before).
I picked up a matching set BECM and ECU today for less than the price of the BECM anywhere else.
Marty I'm sorting the BECM first. Don't panic!
Any help would be appreciated.
SpiggyTopes wrote:
- Another switch ...... to shut off power to the recirculation flap and set it closed in hot weather.
What is the purpose of this mod? Does it help cooling?
Gilbertd wrote:
Only because I'm PM'ing them as they pop up on the other one......
Guess I wasn't considered a regular! :(
JK
I heard about this forum through a friend. Would love to see an alternative to the nazi mod/admin at rr dot net.
Edit: Guess I should introduce myself!
I'm Ray and I'm located in Sudbury, Ontario, Canada
2001 Range Rover 4.6 HSE (owned for 3 years now, first land rover)
I do all work on this truck myself. (with the exception of the rear brake lines when it was -30C)
I have a Nanocom Evolution if somebody near me needs help.