I think I have solved the whole O2 problem. I checked the numbers stamped on the O2 online and discovered that the ones I received were actually for Acura/Honda. They arrived with no boxes as the seller buys them bulk or so he says. I never thought to check the numbers beforehand. Everything about them was identical.

Tested the heater circuit on each bosch sensors.
9.3 on 3 of them and 7.3 on RH Downstream

Tested the heater circuit on aftermarket ones and got 13.3 on all four.

Got 2.3 on old senor

RH Upstream
C0645 C0635 Resistance
Pin 1 Pin 10 0.01
Pin 2 Pin 16 0.01
Pin 3 Pin 13 0.01
Pin 4 Fuse 26 0.01

LH Upstream
C0644 C0635 Resistance
Pin 1 Pin 9 0.01
Pin 2 Pin 15 0.01
Pin 3 Pin 19 0.01
Pin 4 Fuse 26 0.01

RH Downstream
C0642 C0635 Resistance
Pin 1 Pin 8 0.01
Pin 2 Pin 14 0.01
Pin 3 Pin 1 0.01
Pin 4 Fuse 26 0.01

LH Downstream
C0643 C0635 Resistance
Pin 1 Pin 11 0.01
Pin 2 Pin 17 0.01
Pin 3 Pin 7 0.01
Pin 4 Fuse 26 0.01

Where do I go from here? No wiring issues.

Got all 6 codes back now. Did drive cycle c as advised and still the same.
At the same time as I was replacing the O2 sensors I pulled the upper intake to find my coolant leak at the back of the motor. I forgot to undo the ground strap at the back of the intake and pulled on it a bit before I realized. Is the ground related to the O2's? It has to be a common wire between all 4 sensors to create the issue I have. I checked Rave and all wires on the O2's go to different pins on the ECU. There is nothing common between the 4. Anyway here is the Nanocom O2 section at idle.

On another delightful note my left head is leaking exhaust, coolant and oil. I have a set of heads at the machine shop getting them ready. Paid $100 for a set off a disco 2. Ordered Head Gaskets, Lifters, Pushrods, Camshaft, etc.. Gonna be busy next week.

Gilbertd I swapped out the ECU and did find some suspect connections on the circuit board of the one I removed but I still have 5 codes.

New Bosch sensors fitted. Reset adaptive values and now have the following codes:
P0135 = Oxygen sensor heater upstream catalyst bank 1 drive cycle C - Signal too low
P0155 = Oxygen sensor heater upstream catalyst bank 2 drive cycle C - Signal too low
P0141 = Oxygen sensor heater downstream catalyst bank 1 drive cycle C - Signal too low
P0161 = Oxygen sensor heater downstream catalyst bank 2 drive cycle C - Signal too low
P0134 = O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P1000 = Lambda Heater Upstream catalyst bank 2 Drive cycle C , signal missing

I reset the adaptive values once the work was complete.
I installed spark plug non-foulers on the rear sensors which cured the codes I was getting with the old sensors.
Because of all the bad info out there about which ones work with this truck the non foulers are 18mm NOT 14mm or 12mm. For the one on the North American driver side I got a 90 degree elbow one from amazon as it is too close to the prop shaft for my liking.
None of the current codes were shown before fitting the new sensors.
The truck drives better but with four sensors giving errors it is probably running very rich right now.
I have ordered new genuine Bosch sensors.
Bosch 15630 for downstream.
Bosch 15184 for upstream.

Update on this:
I had the manifolds welded and replaced all related gaskets. Sounds good now.
I also replaced all O2 sensors but that did not work for me unfortunately. I got the following codes on completion of work.
P0135 = Oxygen sensor heater upstream catalyst bank 1 drive cycle C - Signal too low
P0155 = Oxygen sensor heater upstream catalyst bank 2 drive cycle C - Signal too low
P0141 = Oxygen sensor heater downstream catalyst bank 1 drive cycle C - Signal too low
P0161 = Oxygen sensor heater downstream catalyst bank 2 drive cycle C - Signal too low
The sensors I bought were generic brand from Ebay. Lesson learned I guess.

Just an update on this for anyone doing this in the future.
Studs are M10x1.5 x 42
Heat shield M6x1.0x15

no10chris wrote:

You are correct, m10x 1.25 x60, that's what I put in mine

Looks like I guessed pretty good. Thanks for your reply.

Thanks everybody for the input. Time to go to the fastener store.

I finally got my gaskets to pull the exhaust manifolds for repair.
I was wondering whether anyone knows the size of the studs where it connects to the y pipe? M10x1.25x60 Maybe?
Also the size of the bolts holding the heat shields? M6 maybe?

Check the bushings where the radius arms connect to the chassis. These will cause the shakes you speak of.

Ok so I should concentrate on fixing the manifolds and go from there. Sounds like a plan.
The oil leak should not be from the rocker covers as I did those last season. It definitely looks like it comes from the front of the heads. When I did the valley gasket I also replaced the front cover gasket and the front main seal. This helped on the oil loss problem but I am still seeing it on the front of the motor.
Can the rear O2 sensors be pulled from the stream as I have got an error on those because of the lack of Cats.

Just ordered all the manifold gaskets. Hopefully the heat shields will cooperate. Who am I kidding? Lol

I hear you.
I'm not dropping a $6000 block into this truck. If I can't spruce it up to last another 60,000km then off to the bone yard it goes.

OK no problem, whenever you get a chance. If you need more info let me know please.

Were the files I uploaded of any use?

Ok I got some readings at idle for you.
First file is O2 live readings at idle: https://www.amazon.com/clouddrive/share/kj4l39iPYSajnsAWwUu90c1iMRPoKKS17hUpvhK0ZRz?ref_=cd_ph_share_link_copy

Second file is general inputs: https://www.amazon.com/clouddrive/share/JCyOrZr8gwjZa3RnfxEFhiDAQwIoMFGZ2U4CNJygtT7?ref_=cd_ph_share_link_copy

I have not tested compression yet.
I'm almost ready to tear into the whole thing and do the head gaskets. When it is apart I can get the manifolds repaired. If I'm digging in to do the head gaskets I figured it would be a good time to do the camshaft, lifters, pushrods etc.
The mileage is 260,000 kms approx.
I'll do a capture of the instrument mode on the way home from work and post it here.

Before I start, I have had this truck for 4 years now and I have never driven another P38 so I have nothing to compare to.

Symptoms:
The engine seams gutless and lacking power when ascending long hills.
My exhaust tips are sooty.
My Gas/mileage sucks.

Things I know are wrong with the truck engine right now:
Both exhaust manifolds have cracks in them on front 2 cylinders. I did not remove heat shields yet to discover any more cracks. Very audible from inside truck under load.
Leaking oil from front of both heads.
Leaking coolant from reservoir cap.

Things replaced or fixed to try to remedy this:
Removed SAI and replaced ECU with non SAI. This was not a remedy but this shit gets in the way!
Both Cats removed and straight piped. No codes from O2 sensors after this was performed.
Replaced both ignition coils.
Replaced spark plugs.
Replaced plug wires.

Engine runs ok and idles very close to smooth. I have Nanocom Evolution but I don't know how to use the info it gives me. Any help would be great. Thx

Yeah I did mean propshafts Doh!