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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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I found this was happening with my truck and after some investigation I greased the sliding part of the drive-shafts and it stopped.

I think 2012/2013 was the final year they made it available on CD's. I have this version and it is fairly up to date in northern Ontario, Canada. You could upgrade to the DVD nav unit in the trunk for later versions.

I have had this issue for a while and I am finally trying to solve it. Symptoms are as follows.
Driving in town and I will pull up to a stop light and notice the front is low. I then put on the park brake and take my foot of the brake. When I do this the truck will level out, sometimes in 10 seconds but sometimes longer. If I drive all the way to work without performing this procedure when I park the truck it will level once I put it in park. Sometimes the rear will move around while this leveling is occurring almost like a seasickness motion (like the bags are inflating in a circular pattern).

Before we start I will try to answer as many of the possible questions that I can.

  1. Driver module replaced - same symptoms
  2. No leaks detected on bags or lines.
  3. Valve block rebuild 3 times in last 3 years.
  4. Replaced all o-rings on bags and dryer.
  5. Swapped height sensors and replaced one where tab snapped off due to rust.
  6. Calibrated EAS using dowel blocks.
  7. Truck does not drop at night. Sometimes raises while parked.
  8. Truck does not move if relay is removed.

Any help with this would be great as drive-ability is an issue.

I just did this job over the weekend. The 11mm crows-foot works good on the rear lines. A wrench or spanner to UK folk will not work due to space limitations. The crows-foot also works for the front line connections as there is limited room there also.
I replaced all 6 rubber lines plus the two small hard lines on the rear. If you can buy a 18 inch line with the flares already done it will work for the small lines.
Remember Bubble flares and not double flares.
I used a broom handle in a vice to bend the tight radius bends.
I also rebuilt all 4 calipers for less than buying one rebuilt unit.
Bleed nipples are M10x1.0x31.5mm if they need replacing. I bought M10x1.0x32.5mm and they worked fine.
Remember to follow rave bleed process for desired results. My brake pedal feels better than ever and stopping power is awesome.

Check the condition of the Rubber brake hoses when you are in there. They are cheap to replace and will help braking power.
Since you are in the UK and parts are way cheaper there I would rebuild the calipers too.
All these prices are pounds sterling and are from lrdirect:
STC1909 Caliper Seal kit (does both sides) - 3.28
STC1908 Caliper Piston X 2 - 4.50 each
Rubber Hose LH ANR4703 - 8.67
Rubber Hose RH ANR4704 - 7.71
2X small rubber hoses ANR5916 - 8.59 each

Don't get me wrong I'm happy it didn't come on! :)

I recently converted my truck from SAI to non-SAI. I don't know whether this would make a difference. Did the non-SAI have the rear sensors?

Ferryman wrote:

And? How about the O2 sensors, no CEL? What's the sound now?

Video posted. No CEL which tells me the O2 sensors are not reporting correct. I have been meaning to monitor them to see but have not had a chance.

Previous thread had issues. Requested help with the thread and nothing happened. Decided to retry with bonus video.
I finally had to fix up the exhaust on my truck. Had multiple leaks and clogged cats.
Wife doesn't like the result but I love it.
Cats removed, Centre Muffler still there and both rear exhausts removed.

Pic:
https://www.amazon.com/clouddrive/share/5dDf24EyalqOqScsTRTfb16p23RXEHNE0Vyaezuykxc?v=grid&ref_=cd_ph_share_link_copy

Vid:
https://youtu.be/NpWOmsCsbaY

No moderators is fine. But someone needs to maintain the forum.

The forum lacks any active moderators or admin for solving any forum issues. If the forum is to grow issues need to be sorted or users will get frustrated and leave.
Just some constructive input.

Thanks. Just realized I quoted the wrong post.

If you are ordering from Blackbox Solutions they are pretty careful with payments from certain countries. It think they got scammed a couple of times!

Ferryman wrote:

Mine does the same.
When engine running while hood is open I can hear the valves pst-pst-pst and the front drops half an inch, the same moment it corrects itself to normal height and after 20-30 seconds the pst-pst-pst starts again.
Might be a dead spot in a sensor, after all normal ride height is the most used position.
Over night it stays level (for at least 4 days), maybe because the Becm is in sleep mode.
Tony.

Which two O rings? Might help somebody down the road.

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Thanks guys! I thought I was going crazy or you guys were playing tricks on me!
I made a post about this today in the bugs thread. You guys were way ahead of me!
There is not even an option to edit the post as the picture obscures the bottom buttons.

I have a post here: https://rrpub.gjcp.net/topic/109-exhaust-work
When I view the post it only has my first post with the picture. The post has 8 responses including one I made but I can't see them.
Could someone take a look at it to see whats going on?
I does this on multiple pc's with multiple browsers and android phone with multiple browsers.

I can't see any of the replies to this post for some reason?

I finally had to fix up the exhaust on my truck. Had multiple leaks and clogged cats.
Wife doesn't like the result but I love it.
Cats removed, Centre Muffler still there and both rear exhausts removed.

Pic: https://www.amazon.com/clouddrive/share/5dDf24EyalqOqScsTRTfb16p23RXEHNE0Vyaezuykxc?v=grid&ref_=cd_ph_share_link_copy

Vid: https://youtu.be/NpWOmsCsbaY

Check the ground straps for the heated screen. They are under the cowl. You will have to remove the wipers for access.