I stumbled across this self help group quite by chance a few days ago, having loitered on rangerovers.net for the last year. You guys must be the People's Front for Judea, I was with the Judaean People's Front. Anyway I recognise a few folks from their user names and/or garage contents, and impressed by the camps you guys seem to have periodically.
I have a 50th Defender and a 50th P38. Defender runs well, always has, on the back of basic servicing. P38 I picked up a year ago, and I keep telling myself it's only such a PITA because it was neglected for so many years. I've replaced the rear diff, changed the HU to after market, done a head gasket, o rings and various fluid changes. Next biggies: radius arm bushes (I got orange poly), panhard bushes (not so big) and working out why my air con is not playing, now that it's got hot again.
This P38 is testing my sense of humour... I think since owning this I have averaged about 48 hours of worry free motoring before the next major system failure - today EAS..
I was just playing with the nanocom this morning in EAS resetting ride heights as it was a few cm higher on the right than on the left, on level ground. So obv the EAS was having to work a bit harder than usual, and it was hot... I got the settings I wanted, but now I have ended up on bump stops, and can't get to any other ride height. The Compressor works still, and the whole system was working fine before. No discernible leaks. So either something simply failed, or I was wondering if the Nano has some functionality that cd have disabled EAS ( as a result of me messing around). I'm looking for the quick win before I have to go through things methodically - seems like something gave out on me - any quick things I should try before I have to start pulling EAS apart?
Engine is perfectly driveable, perhaps a bit of a tappet-like rattle on one cylinder, but notably smelly at idle... I don't have a nose for these things, but it smells a bit rich... Does that mean the cats are up s*** creek (distinctly possible, but sounds expensive), or the MAFs playing up (i haven't removed it/ cleaned it at this point) ? HT leads and plugs are new. All the old plugs looked good on removal too. LH head gasket recently replaced. All injectors resistance tested consistently (although high end of expected range).
Any thoughts from our experts?
So O rings done, I've now got full cabin heat, but the UK weather just went tropical (for a few days, anyway), so now I need the AC... Last summer the AC worked, after I replaced the condenser and added a 2nd hand drier.
This year the AC is not playing. The compressor works, when I give 12v and and earth direct to the connector (C166P) the clutch engages, and the cabin chills as expected. In normal use though nanocom says AC grant "no", but as far as I'm aware the nanocom doesn't also tell me the AC request status - if I could find that in the nanocom menu somewhere it could help with diagnosis, and if I could force it on that would be even better. I also need to disconnect the BECM diagnostic connector as it apparently interferes with the Nanocom's interrogation of the HEVAC ECU - I haven't done that yet - but I don't know if that wd screw up the readings or not.
It crossed my mind that one of the many sensors may be feeding in rubbish data to the HEVAC ECU.
I got ambient 12.7 (fine)
aspirator 18.2 (fine)
evaporator 16.2 (ok, just replaced with a 2nd hand one off a freelander, but same Valeo part number)
heater core temp -0.20 (although it climbs once I've turned up to Hi)
Is the heater core temp way off - seems so. What range should it read in? If that were the case is that going to explain why the AC is not being requested? I recently did the o rings so cd have disturbed something on the sensor
In general any HEVAC faults I have had in the last year are clearable. I have a rare "compressor open circuit" message (but I had that last year too, when the AC was working) and the right blend motor needs fixing at some point. I have a periodic service book come up, but I think it's usually triggered by me asking the jammed blend motor to move (ie by pressing the "wrong" button to adjust the air vent flow)
Seems my first job is to get to air con grant "yes" and then I can start testing stuff... And maybe pressure test the aircon system
Any recommendations for a good/ sensibly priced tracking alignment garage in SW London. Two different guys are wanting to charge me c£150 to do it...which seems a bit of a p*** take. Or should I just invest in the ebay laser kit that's showing up on the "uneven tyre wear" thread?