Last weekend I started to get cheep cheep cheep sounds from my V8 under any kind of load (but not idle). I replaced the LH head gasket earlier this year. This time it seems to be the RH one. Not sure what triggered it, I had a minor over-heat in slow traffic on a hot day a couple of weeks back, but pulled over very quickly, let it cool, and as soon as I was on open road the RR ran fine.
After removing the HT leads to plugs 2/4/6/8 one by one - the cheep disappears on 4 - so I'm hypothesising there's a failure coming on 4, which I'll deal with in due course. I'm just trying to work out how driveable this is...if the HG leak goes to a full chuff chuff steam engine sound, and I were in the middle of nowhere (say 100m away from home) and I had to remove the HT lead and disconnect the injector on no 4, would that do any damage to the engine (and assuming the other 7 cylinders run fine, which they do)? I'd much rather be able to self-recover than call out Admiral and wait x hours etc etc Tnx, Rob
V8 Gems... should i care that my crankcase breather hose does not have an oil separator in it? Never has since i've had it. The exhaust smells a bit at idle, but the car doesn't noticeably burn oil. Just wondering whether I need to buy an over-priced piece of plastic or not?
I get a vaguely nauseous/ "not fresh air" smell coming from my HVAC. I think it's more heat associated than with the AC, which makes me think that the outside of the heater matrix might need a rinse. I redid the o rings in the summer, but was on AC for months, and only recently started to require heat. It was quite unpleasant at first, and is becoming less noticeable now. I have no reason to think the matrix is leaking. I'm not too hot on the HVAC anatomy, but does anyone know of any good ways to clean the outside of the matrix? There are various "bombs" available on the market - anyone found a good one? If i wanted to do a more physical clean is that going to be a dash-off job, or is there a pathway to getting an aerosol solvent directly into the heater box via one of the vents?
This P38 is testing my sense of humour... I think since owning this I have averaged about 48 hours of worry free motoring before the next major system failure - today EAS..
I was just playing with the nanocom this morning in EAS resetting ride heights as it was a few cm higher on the right than on the left, on level ground. So obv the EAS was having to work a bit harder than usual, and it was hot... I got the settings I wanted, but now I have ended up on bump stops, and can't get to any other ride height. The Compressor works still, and the whole system was working fine before. No discernible leaks. So either something simply failed, or I was wondering if the Nano has some functionality that cd have disabled EAS ( as a result of me messing around). I'm looking for the quick win before I have to go through things methodically - seems like something gave out on me - any quick things I should try before I have to start pulling EAS apart?
I know the GEMS does not "need" a gasket between the inlet manifold and the lower plenum/ trumpet section. But on the other hand is there any harm in fitting one? Whenever i've unbolted the section (ok, so only 3 times) there seems to evidence of the inlet galleries talking to one another (though not that there is leaking to/ from the outside) ie i can see a brown oily film between galleries, where there wd only have been blue hylomar on assembly. I though I could nail it with the ERR6621 gasket ? Thoughts?
No sooner had I fixed the RH head gasket than .... gearbox fault....
I don't believe it's the battery,.... nanocom says "invalid throttle angle data", and then scrolling right says "engine torque fault.... On a short test drive i feel the box changing down as i brake (where before all was silky smooth), and it doesn't feel happy.
When I was doing the HG it was on a 10 degree slope (to my garage) for a couple of weeks. There's definitely D3 in it, need to wait until it has cooled to be sure of the level, but it was all v smooth before, and there's no reason to believe there's been a catastrophic leak while it has been stationary. The battery was disconnected during that time, I've put it on charge just in case.
And the sunroof spat out a rubber seal today too, but i'll deal with that another time...
As I look back I had two near misses this summer, both on hot days, after 15-20 minutes of slow traffic ie just the fan running at barely above idle, and no air ram effect on the rad... I pulled over quickly each time, let the engine cool, and then as soon as the traffic cleared, hit the open road and no problem, back in the centre of the dial. OK, so I did subsequently have one HG go, which I'm sure wasn't helped by the first over-heating episode, but a HG change was in the tea leaves anyway.
So my question is, should I expect (and so try to avoid) these kind of heavy traffic/ hot weather over-heating scenarios, or does it sound like my waterways might be bunged up (ooerr). All the hoses are changed out since I bought it, but I haven't touched the water pump (yet) or the rad. The system did have some rad weld in it for a few weeks last year, but I have done a couple of changes of the coolant since then. I was wondering if the radiator was free flowing...if I stuck a hose in the top of the rad and blasted it through would it make any difference, or should I consider a new rad - I couldn't swear to it being the original one, but it's certainly the normal abs/ aluminium build and so possibly due a new one anyway
This guy (aka Lancashire Sports and Performance) was responsible for selling me my P38 a couple of years back off of Car and Classic. He claimed to be a "P38 specialist" but his inability to fault check basic things makes us look like Charles Spencer King ( ie he's either incompetent, or a liar). Apart from a load of cr** he spun me about the car, MOT etc, he also advertised it using fake pictures - when you're advertising a numbered limited edition that's a pretty dumb thing to do, right?
Anyway - this guy is so brazen he is now using the same set of pictures (ie the ones that were supposedly of my car, but weren't) to sell another 50th Range Rover. I guess he got kicked off car and classic and so has just set up an ebay account, feedback 1. I know we pub-folk aren't necessarily in the market for a second/ third P38 anyway, but just be warned, go in with your eyes wide open if you do ever get tempted to deal with him.
I have a weep of compressor oil which find its way out past the clutch. From time to time I have to clean the clutch gap to ensure the clutch engages when it should. It's workable, but replacing what's probably just one seal will give me on less thing to maintain. Has anyone ripped one of these babies apart/ replaced the seals?
V8 starts on the nose,and idles fine, from cold. A couple of times the other day i "had fun" restarting when I'd just stopped for 5-10 minutes. Engine turned over no problem, but didn't fire up. After a few attempts it just about caught, and I had to keep it rev'd to 1500 for 15-20 secs for it to stop choking. As soon as I had it under load ie in reverse or 1st then it could idle at 650 again.
Does anyone recognise the symptoms?
I haven't yet cleaned up the IACV since i bought it, or fitted a new fuel filter, and i will shortly change the exhaust down-pipes and so clean the oxygen sensors at the same time. MAFs clean, injectors are ok, spark plugs and HT leads are new
or the "nose" for the top hose... First weekend I got my P38 it over-heated because some fool had fitted a second thermostat in the coolant elbow. I subsequently put on a new gasket and used hylomar on both sides. I pinched the two bolts up as much as I dared, but the joint still (very slowly) wept coolant. After doing a head gasket I did the same - gasket and blue hylomar, and got a torque setting from my Defender 4.0 (26.45.01) of 21 ft lb (the P38 manual seems to overlook the torque for this joint, presumably since it's meant to be empty). Now I've got a new-fangled low range electronic torque wrench I redid the joint with a fibre gasket but no hylomar (manual says not to use compound unless explicitly advised) - now seems to be weeping worse, even after after i flattened it off with 2000 Grit. Has anyone found an effective method for doing this joint?
Engine is perfectly driveable, perhaps a bit of a tappet-like rattle on one cylinder, but notably smelly at idle... I don't have a nose for these things, but it smells a bit rich... Does that mean the cats are up s*** creek (distinctly possible, but sounds expensive), or the MAFs playing up (i haven't removed it/ cleaned it at this point) ? HT leads and plugs are new. All the old plugs looked good on removal too. LH head gasket recently replaced. All injectors resistance tested consistently (although high end of expected range).
Any thoughts from our experts?
When I came to switching the ECT sensor on my 98 GEMS, it turns out that my PO stripped the seat of the sensor and glued it into place with something hard/ yellow. I'm guessing it was an epoxy glue. The question now is what's my best option to reseat it. Is it helicoilable? Or should I go the way of the PO and glue it into place? If so, what's the best glue/ to use?
I had a short in my seat which was blowing one of the fuses on start-up. I tracked this down to the lumbar support ( tho I was sure it was going to be the seat heater). I depinned it from the BECM connection, and so i have everything else working except the lumbar support Being a quasi-perfectionist (struggling to get excited about my non-operational cruise control) I was wondering whether the lumbar support pump/ bladder would be the sort of thing that was easier to replace, or it's fairly rudimentary once you're inside the seat? Has anyone had a play with this before?
I stumbled across this self help group quite by chance a few days ago, having loitered on rangerovers.net for the last year. You guys must be the People's Front for Judea, I was with the Judaean People's Front. Anyway I recognise a few folks from their user names and/or garage contents, and impressed by the camps you guys seem to have periodically.
I have a 50th Defender and a 50th P38. Defender runs well, always has, on the back of basic servicing. P38 I picked up a year ago, and I keep telling myself it's only such a PITA because it was neglected for so many years. I've replaced the rear diff, changed the HU to after market, done a head gasket, o rings and various fluid changes. Next biggies: radius arm bushes (I got orange poly), panhard bushes (not so big) and working out why my air con is not playing, now that it's got hot again.
As is traditional for me (don't start), a routine disassembly becomes more complicated as a result of a sheared bolt. Removing the water pump for inspection, it was the centre top bolt - with the thread exposed at the back, so likely corroded in. The good news, the bolt sheared just below the hex, so maximum bolt length to remove the stud. The bad news, the bolts are threaded for their entire length, so I can't get the pump off due to this one sheared bolt.
The bolt seems to be an M8 flanged 30mm. Lrcat talks about M8 but 25mm - I doubt it matters greatly, but I just wanted to be sure I had the right spec, anyone know?
I'm hoping that when I get the water pump off I find that the impeller is on its way out, which will make me feel better. There's definitely some play in the bearing, so that's good.
I got "Abs/ Traction failure" today. Nanocom read the fault as "normal rotation on all wheels, incorrect air gap on RHF sensor". The rubber boot on the sensor needs replacing, but I've been nowhere near that corner for a long while, so nothing's been disturbed. I was off on a drive, so all i've done so far is give the sensor a bit of a tap with a hammer to check it was seated properly, nada.... I'll pull it out tomorrow and give it a bit of a clean, and maybe blast the port with air. Any other thoughts? If spring cleaning doesn't work then I'll prob end up getting a replacement sensor.
I know, if we had a pound for every post about a rattle, knock or squeak in a p38 we'd all be millionaires, so to help you on your way....
I have an infrequent tap from the direction of the LH rear door or under the back seat. It sounds a bit like if you took a plastic handled screwdriver and tapped the chassis, or bodywork. It only seems to happen at low speed, less than 10 mph. It fairly often does it after slow braking, when the car's almost at a halt. Some times it does it just rolling along. Occasionally when I'm stationary, or if I turn the ignition off, but it's all low speed stuff. I have put the EAS up and down a few times to see if that had anything to do with it - seems not. I had the air con switched off, to be sure the clutch was not creating a phantom noise.
What moves almost randomly under the rear end of the car? I suppose I can check the rear calipers/ guide pins, but they were all thread locked anyway. something come loose in the fuel tank? I cd maybe check the exhaust mountings
Simple enough request...lots of folks seem to have searched for the programmable solution, and failed in the past. So what's the most elegant way to achieve this? I. Insert a relay on the headlight position of the rotary switch for the lights ( and tie the relay across an ignition dpdt wire, such as the stereo's position II live), or II. Change the +ve power source for the head lights in the fuse box from a perm one to an ignition dependent, or some other....
I had a self inflicted flat battery this weekend ( ie left the lights on) and want to eliminate the risk of that again...I'm sure someone smarter than me's already cracked it
So O rings done, I've now got full cabin heat, but the UK weather just went tropical (for a few days, anyway), so now I need the AC... Last summer the AC worked, after I replaced the condenser and added a 2nd hand drier.
This year the AC is not playing. The compressor works, when I give 12v and and earth direct to the connector (C166P) the clutch engages, and the cabin chills as expected. In normal use though nanocom says AC grant "no", but as far as I'm aware the nanocom doesn't also tell me the AC request status - if I could find that in the nanocom menu somewhere it could help with diagnosis, and if I could force it on that would be even better. I also need to disconnect the BECM diagnostic connector as it apparently interferes with the Nanocom's interrogation of the HEVAC ECU - I haven't done that yet - but I don't know if that wd screw up the readings or not.
It crossed my mind that one of the many sensors may be feeding in rubbish data to the HEVAC ECU.
I got ambient 12.7 (fine)
aspirator 18.2 (fine)
evaporator 16.2 (ok, just replaced with a 2nd hand one off a freelander, but same Valeo part number)
heater core temp -0.20 (although it climbs once I've turned up to Hi)
Is the heater core temp way off - seems so. What range should it read in? If that were the case is that going to explain why the AC is not being requested? I recently did the o rings so cd have disturbed something on the sensor
In general any HEVAC faults I have had in the last year are clearable. I have a rare "compressor open circuit" message (but I had that last year too, when the AC was working) and the right blend motor needs fixing at some point. I have a periodic service book come up, but I think it's usually triggered by me asking the jammed blend motor to move (ie by pressing the "wrong" button to adjust the air vent flow)
Seems my first job is to get to air con grant "yes" and then I can start testing stuff... And maybe pressure test the aircon system