I'm chasing an "RHF air gap too large" fault, but working on the LH sensor because nano shows that that is the wheel that starts moving later than the others. To be sure that I knew which wheel nano was reporting for sure, I struck on the idea of disconnecting the LH sensor to prove that it was that wheel triggering the fault. Unfortunately i just got the error "e2" straight after. I reconnected the sensor, but now it doesn't respond at all (well, not sure it was responding before tbh), reports e2 or occasionally "e1"...and the faults message is back to RHF air gap too large
Just bleeding the brakes on my "new" P38, and I spent half an hour cutting away the bulkhead insulation around the rear booster bleed screw so that I could a. see it and b. get a pipe on it. Maybe I am missing a trick, but i don't see how it's possible to do the full brake bleed without removing the insulation... which means that neither of my P38s were ever properly bled before I got to them... thoughts?
can't remember if this is allowed- if not please delete... for your entertainment...one of my 50ths up for sale ...I can't justify running/ maintaining 2 while holding down a full time job : o)
Only a grand so far !!
I'm a bit stumped... Book error came up on RR no 2, and as I had a couple of spare 2nd hand blend motors, which tested fine I thought I'd open her up on the RHS and replace both motors. Distribution flaps were a bit tight and i loosened them off with the self tapper in the middle. After a bit of swapping ( i have two hevac's, repinned the connector, swapped motors over) I have a Distribution motor that powers up on ignition II and seemingly a functioning LH and RH blend motor and i can watch the blend %age (on Nano) go up and down all day long - although not the distribution motor. But...i keep getting one error (ie only one at a time) in Faults...it is variously RH blend motor open circuit, RH blend potentiometer circuit has failed, RH blower is open circuit. I would merrily go and buy some new blend motors if i believed that was the error, but it would be great if Nano could make up its mind. it might even make sense if it said that it was the distribution motor...
Has anyone developed any relevant expertise in the interpretation of the nano?
I have a spare EAS unit, and last weekend i did a refurb of the block and the compressor. I know that the driver pack cannot be repaired as such, but is there a way to bench test it ?
I went to Germany this week and left the car at High, and disconnected the battery. I came back, reconnected, as I've done many times. Started her up no problem, and went to run an errand...but...no response when i went to lower the ride height. Being stuck at high is not the worst thing in the world, but i need to use it on the road tomorrow, so looking for a fix. The system has been fine for 5 years, but recently in the last few months it wd sometimes sag at the Rear RH corner when i left her parked. I'm convinced it was the system doing the deflating and not a leak... i could be shopping for 5 mins and would come back and it had gone down... other times it would just sit at standard, and it would sit at high all day long. But now as i say it wont adjust from High.... Well, I say wont, but i can plug nano in and make the car go up and down, all the sensor bit counts adjust dynamically. Fuses are ok, and switches test ok on the nano - except the raise/ lower one - which would be a red flag, but i took the switch of my other P38 and nano reads the same - no response to the ride height switch.... I'm suspecting the EAS ECU, which I suppose is easy enough for me to try... but, does anyone have any alternative theories?
Is there such a thing as a bench test for an air bag? I have an old air bag that i want to test... short of fitting it to one of my fleet is there a way to do a leak test on one? Obviously a bike inner tube you can just hang up on a hook and see if it goes down...not sure how that translates to an air bag though... This may turn into a comedy thread of course...let's see
On my new (to me) P38 the barrel of the drivers door lock started spinning round and round, and then when I finally managed to persuade the key to come out the barrel slid almost all the way back into the door just by touch. I have been fortunate enough in the past not to have to familiarise myself with door anatomy... so, what will have failed? is it just a circlip fallen off inside? PO supplied a RHF door lock in a box of parts, so I suspect the lock was replaced but something was forgotten/ not fitted properly.
Some helpful person badly cracked the abs on my rear bumper...As far as I can see this part code is OOS everywhere... Unless someone knows of a specialist who may have one. This one has less cut-outs than the alternative, which seems to be freely available....or does anyone know who actually makes/ made them? I only really need the abs, so cd try a breaker, but the outers are messy to remove without further damage
Sorry to be lazy, but i'm sure someone has the answer... on P38 no2 the passenger lock locks shut on the key fob, but does not open.... is that likely to be a jammed rod? seems odd for the motor to work one way and not the other... It just helps before pulling the door card off so that I can line up the necessary spares...
Hi Gents, I just bought myself another P38...slightly better version of the 50th I already have : o) It comes with an LPG install and I'm wondering if it is worth retaining, or just strip it off... Is it complicated to remove?
As you can see I know nothing about LPG...so I'm all ears
My cooling fan shattered today, took out the side of the battery box, ripped one of the lower coolant hoses, destroyed the radiator shroud, dented the bonnet, shredded the sound proofing, holed the rad and also somehow seems to have knocked out the power steering. slighly ironic, as i'd just picked it up from the welders getting the door sills done and spent a few quid....
Coolant system shd be repairable, but the PS has me a bit mystified, no sign of hose damage, and the fan belt still runs the pump. I'll just try topping it up with Diii and see what happens.
I seem to recall this (disintegrating fan) happened to one of us before, but forgot who?
Slightly off topic, But I have a friend who wants to convert a 110 to v8, but lives in the ULEZ zone, so wants it to be ULEZ compliant. Is there such a thing as a compliant V8 which could "readily" be dropped in - the next problem would be convincing TFL, of course...
So I have been trying to nurse my a/c back to health... compressor changed, o rings replaced, full a/c charge, clutch engages off a 9V battery and a/c will run cold, evaporator will go sub 10 degrees no problem. With the regular electrics connected then I can see the a/c request kicking in within a few seconds of ignition start (nanocom, read from the ECM). I can also toggle the a/c request on and off with the a/c switch, so the nano reading is good, and live. Request is an active-low 12v connection.
The A/c grant is 5V, also active low. As far as I can see I don't get the grant back from the ECM - does anyone have the exact GEMS criteria for grant? BBS talks about temperature, load and acceleration... but what specifically? The nanocom HEVAC connection is pretty unreliable once the car has started (it says it can't connect, but still reports most input variables), but it reports no grant. When I have time I will pull the ECU and confirm that by testing the pin. I tend to believe the nano for now re lack of grant, but not 100%. Because the grant is active low then there can't be a wire break
As a plan B I was thinking to join the A/c request output from the HEVAC, via a 5V regulator to the a/c grant input to the HEVAC - then they would both go active low together automatically, and would be 12v/5v inactive....would this do as a work-around?
I'm looking for a good way to free up my distrubtion flaps, and have found reference to putting a self tapping screw in the heater box "somewhere", but does anyone have a ref or pic? Seems the definitive guide was on rr.net once upon a time, all i get is dead links, but maybe someone here has actually done it?
My switch pack decided to pack up... all switches dead.. It went from working to not working after being left standing for a week during lock-down. I think there was one trip where it was intermittent, but it went very quickly. It wasn't particularly damp/ humid, but it was cold, for sure.
I checked Fuse 1, which was fine - it controls a bunch of other stuff as well, like the instruments, so was unlikely to have been the issue. One thread said check the relay... but i'm not sure there are relays in the circuit (unless anyone knows differently).
I have taken the board out, and tested the board side of the blue connector when connected to the car. I see 12v incoming for the switch pack, and 12v incoming for the illumination (switches on and off with the headlights. I can also see 12v and 5v on the feet of the voltage regulator. I can read continuity between earth and the pins in marty's pin-out mapping or rr.net for all the window switches. Visually, under the caps, the contacts of all the switches look clean. There was a bit of corrosion on some of the soldered feet of the power connector and the main chap , but nothing too scary - cleaned it up with contact cleaner
I even disconnected the battery and reconnected it (some folks report that that works, although I was sceptical) but that had no effect, other than to ask me to reset all my windows, lol
nanocom can move all the windows no problem - so becm/ windows are fine.
What's the next most likely point of failure. A fried main chip in the switch pack?
So, my a/c compressor has a slow leak around the seals (green/UV oil gets spun off the clutch). So i decided to fix it...I have a replacement compressor (long since gave up on the hope of finding a seal kit), a new receiver drier and bunch of metric green o rings... The replacement compressor is pre-dosed with PAG oil.
Can I just bolt the new bits on and change over the pressure switches and then take it somewhere to have the ac evacuated and filled? Instructions with the compressor talk about having to flush the system etc etc - is that really necessary? Then I would need to find an ac fitter and the whole job becomes that much more expensive/ time consuming
Tnx in advance for the advice, Rob
Inviting comments from anyone who's familiar with the anatomy of the driver's side floor channel (the one which runs along the sill and contains the bundles of loom wiring). I emptied mine of water a few days ago, and removed a load of water from the insulation under the driver's side carpet. At the time I figured it had got there courtesy of a disconnected a/c drain during the summer. However, two days later the channel has half filled again (to be fair, it has rained alot)...the door seal's not damaged, that I can see, and no real signs of water around the door. Could the contents of one of the sunroof drains end up in that channel, if one had become dislodged? Is there mean to be a one way valve or something, in that channel, which would allow things to drain?
Tnx for your help....
In the pub all topics valid, right?
So - my fridge freezer started to trip the circuit breaker a few days ago - My nano couldn't connect, so in true P38 style I disconnected everything I could until the circuit breaker didn't trip, and then reconnected things bit by bit.... Turns out the defrost heater element is shorting to the outer case - which was touching the earthed cooling matrix... so, my question is... how about I put a heat shrink sleeve on said heater matrix tube? It shrinks at 100 degrees, which is more than the heating element will be allowed to generate (it's in series with a bimetallic thermal relay - which is closed only below +5 deg C) - the only question is if the heat-shrink can stand repeated heat.... or is there a kind of rubberised but heat-resistant paint I could get for the element?