Sure, but both guide pins on the left were fine. Perhaps there was some other obstruction, or they were choked with brake dust. Anyway, hopefully will all be fine now
The other day my RR failed its MOT due to one of the rear pads (left outer) being worn down to 1.5mm...all the others were 7/8mm. I completely re-did the rear brakes, changed the discs, replaced the pads, and cleaned the whole lot up. The only other thing i found is that one of the right hand carrier guide pins was fairly well seized... So what do we think happened? does all the pressure go to the LH rear because the circuit senses that the RH is seized. Why would only one pad - the LH outer be worn so badly, while the LH inner ie piston side was hardly worn at all ?
Yes, do the rational thing :)
Thanks, wd be great... I will DM you the postal address
Gilbertd wrote:
I've got one that I took out of the red car when I fitted the LPG tank. It's yours if you want it.
Would someone be kind enough to give me the approximate dimensions (ie length of the split section and length of the single section) for the black webbing spare wheel lifting strap ? ebay wants 25 pounds+, which seems silly for something so basic that i can fabricate in about 15 mins
W4, where are you based? Chiswick? Put the nano on it before you spend more money on it. if you're SW London I can help
*nigelbb wrote:
Disabling eka on a v8 is absolutely fine...it does not prevent the EKA from being used, just reduces when it is requested. A few years back I tested this out v carefully, and have had eka disabled ever since
Happy New Year, wishing you and your P38s good health in 2025
Did anyone successfully replace the cat section (gems) on the driveway? Local garage wants 200 quid...I assume the tricky bit is going to be supporting the gearbox and then pulling off the x member. I trust my impact wrench to get the manifold nuts off...spare studs on standby, and new lambda sensors
When you are I. topping up and ii. measuring are you definitely doing so under identical conditions? I suppose temp will have a big impacr, and whether or not the engine is running or the oil is all sat in the sump... I wonder if it's worth doing a second oil change, if it had loads of sludge
The female p38s are more reliable :)
I tried that, but they drenched the circuit board in silicone rubber, and by the time you have excavated the whole thing there is no trace whatsover of the pcb, just green lacquer stuck to rubber:-). It wd have been so easy to just have a separate rechargeable battery...
Until recently, as long as the battery back up did not bother me I left well alone... Now the bbus ( on my Defender) is disturbing my alarm system, so I either need to disconnect permanently, or replace. But the part is completely out of stock... Any bright ideas? Not sure if the p38 one is exactly the same, but probably the p38 one needs replacing too
Tnx for the advice I hit amazon straight after Richards first post and already ordered the kit from the first link. My first 3 practice flares were a mess, but now looking good....Time to do it for real next. Tnx for your help
I have not done this for decades and not on a P38, but what do i need to be able to do some brake lines? a flaring tool (which flare type do we need to use?), some cunifer (size?) some ends (thread/size?) a pipe bending spring one of those proper pipe bender things maybe ? All links/ recommendations welcome... thanks in advance
Rob
Nice one
These did the trick (on a 98 model Hk hi line) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274248116832?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=WqU6RnWnS-q&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=Dtngu6ONT6G&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Just buy the manual :-)
V8 I take it? i've done the supply line in the past, I removed the shroud and fan... Make life easy for yourself :)