Did anyone successfully replace the cat section (gems) on the driveway? Local garage wants 200 quid...I assume the tricky bit is going to be supporting the gearbox and then pulling off the x member. I trust my impact wrench to get the manifold nuts off...spare studs on standby, and new lambda sensors
When you are I. topping up and ii. measuring are you definitely doing so under identical conditions? I suppose temp will have a big impacr, and whether or not the engine is running or the oil is all sat in the sump... I wonder if it's worth doing a second oil change, if it had loads of sludge
The female p38s are more reliable :)
I tried that, but they drenched the circuit board in silicone rubber, and by the time you have excavated the whole thing there is no trace whatsover of the pcb, just green lacquer stuck to rubber:-). It wd have been so easy to just have a separate rechargeable battery...
Until recently, as long as the battery back up did not bother me I left well alone... Now the bbus ( on my Defender) is disturbing my alarm system, so I either need to disconnect permanently, or replace. But the part is completely out of stock... Any bright ideas? Not sure if the p38 one is exactly the same, but probably the p38 one needs replacing too
Tnx for the advice I hit amazon straight after Richards first post and already ordered the kit from the first link. My first 3 practice flares were a mess, but now looking good....Time to do it for real next. Tnx for your help
I have not done this for decades and not on a P38, but what do i need to be able to do some brake lines? a flaring tool (which flare type do we need to use?), some cunifer (size?) some ends (thread/size?) a pipe bending spring one of those proper pipe bender things maybe ? All links/ recommendations welcome... thanks in advance
Rob
Nice one
These did the trick (on a 98 model Hk hi line) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274248116832?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=WqU6RnWnS-q&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=Dtngu6ONT6G&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Just buy the manual :-)
V8 I take it? i've done the supply line in the past, I removed the shroud and fan... Make life easy for yourself :)
Thanks for the explanation :) Sounds like one of your kids should be writing to the car show where they fix up dads old car :)
I just realised...Clive 603...are you such a loctite fan that you named yourself after a bottle of loctite?
I keep it simple, I have 3 loctites blue, red,and green :) I went with epoxy in the end... I'll let you know if it fails. Tnx for the detailed analysis Clive!!
I use loctite on the oil filler neck too, but do you think it is going to retain a tube in a smooth bore? I have some, so easy enough to try, but isn't epoxy safer ? ie not designed to loosen at high temp...
While stripping the hoses from my 4.6, a couple of the metal tubes came away with the hoses attached - one from the top of the rocker cover, and another from the throttle body. The tubes slide back into their respective holes and fit well, but presumably were set with some kind of paste/ sealant. Anyone care to recommend/ suggest what i could use to lock the tubes back in place? Epoxy?
The Land Rover gods smiled on me today... I was making slow progress drilling into the stuck thread of the rocker arm bolt, and then suddenly it seemed to give way but actually, it had turned......then i put a left handed drill bit on it and it came out!! Ok, so it was a coarse and oily thread, but even so, i never really believed in left handed drill bits, but now I am a believer. Anyway, I've chucked the other bolts and ordered new as they clearly can't be trusted. I'm back on course...
For my therapy and your entertainment: Task, remove rocker covers and paint them...simple enough you would think... Took the covers off and the gasket lost one of those little embedded spacers. Convinced it had fallen somewhere into the rocker assembly i started fishing inside with a magnetic pick up...the end section came out and i had a magnet stuck right inside the head assembly next to one of the lifters... Took the rocker arm off, push rods out... accidentally dislodged a couple of the lifters... managed to lift those back into place, against the odds...removed the magnet... Found the spacer on the ground between a couple of paving stones... I was feeling pretty good for 15 mins until I started to torque up the rocker arm to 10, 20 and then 28 pound foot, slow and cautious...Before i made it to 28 on the final bolt the bugger snapped... and of course the break is at the same level as the head... so that will be a drill out job i guess. :(
Chris, to clean the engine bay i just used regular solvents - meths or worst case, acetone (i wouldn't use that on the hoses though) . That said, your engine bay sounds greener than mine ever was :)
Richard, couple of questions: i. Where do i see the knurled knob in the pic above? ii. The lpg ecu is now depowered. I may leave the re-wiring until last...is the ecm to injector wiring connection still continuous via the depowered lpg ecu? Or it won't work until i break and remake the injector wiring ?