Nice one
These did the trick (on a 98 model Hk hi line) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274248116832?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=WqU6RnWnS-q&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=Dtngu6ONT6G&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Just buy the manual :-)
V8 I take it? i've done the supply line in the past, I removed the shroud and fan... Make life easy for yourself :)
Thanks for the explanation :) Sounds like one of your kids should be writing to the car show where they fix up dads old car :)
I just realised...Clive 603...are you such a loctite fan that you named yourself after a bottle of loctite?
I keep it simple, I have 3 loctites blue, red,and green :) I went with epoxy in the end... I'll let you know if it fails. Tnx for the detailed analysis Clive!!
I use loctite on the oil filler neck too, but do you think it is going to retain a tube in a smooth bore? I have some, so easy enough to try, but isn't epoxy safer ? ie not designed to loosen at high temp...
While stripping the hoses from my 4.6, a couple of the metal tubes came away with the hoses attached - one from the top of the rocker cover, and another from the throttle body. The tubes slide back into their respective holes and fit well, but presumably were set with some kind of paste/ sealant. Anyone care to recommend/ suggest what i could use to lock the tubes back in place? Epoxy?
The Land Rover gods smiled on me today... I was making slow progress drilling into the stuck thread of the rocker arm bolt, and then suddenly it seemed to give way but actually, it had turned......then i put a left handed drill bit on it and it came out!! Ok, so it was a coarse and oily thread, but even so, i never really believed in left handed drill bits, but now I am a believer. Anyway, I've chucked the other bolts and ordered new as they clearly can't be trusted. I'm back on course...
For my therapy and your entertainment: Task, remove rocker covers and paint them...simple enough you would think... Took the covers off and the gasket lost one of those little embedded spacers. Convinced it had fallen somewhere into the rocker assembly i started fishing inside with a magnetic pick up...the end section came out and i had a magnet stuck right inside the head assembly next to one of the lifters... Took the rocker arm off, push rods out... accidentally dislodged a couple of the lifters... managed to lift those back into place, against the odds...removed the magnet... Found the spacer on the ground between a couple of paving stones... I was feeling pretty good for 15 mins until I started to torque up the rocker arm to 10, 20 and then 28 pound foot, slow and cautious...Before i made it to 28 on the final bolt the bugger snapped... and of course the break is at the same level as the head... so that will be a drill out job i guess. :(
Chris, to clean the engine bay i just used regular solvents - meths or worst case, acetone (i wouldn't use that on the hoses though) . That said, your engine bay sounds greener than mine ever was :)
Richard, couple of questions: i. Where do i see the knurled knob in the pic above? ii. The lpg ecu is now depowered. I may leave the re-wiring until last...is the ecm to injector wiring connection still continuous via the depowered lpg ecu? Or it won't work until i break and remake the injector wiring ?
Clean the whole engine bay and then have a look for UV traces after running at pressure... I've had various leaks across a few LRs, condenser and hoses were the easy ones, but I also had a leak from a compressor, at the clutch
...Unless you find the UV trace then dont waste time, and just recharge in May each year?
I assume the clutch is pulling in as it should? If not then there are other fixes to consider
No, M6, but 12 mm long. Only the first 8mm of thread was clean, so presumably 4mm protrusion for the jet
Turns out they're 12 mm, perhaps helps with dispersal? But it looks like the thread was only in about 8mm ( the remainder is black)
Tnx. Wd 10mm bolt length be about right, do you think? Or shorter...i'll need to order some
I dont do many miles, never use lpg and it causes a coolant leak, so I plan to decommission it.looks as if I need to drain half the coolant, remove the plenum and then the hoses that were drilled into the inlet manifold. Then I need to blank off 8 holes in the inlet manifold and 1 in the plenum?
I assume theres no need to remove the actual manifold itself. I can disconnect the ECU easily enough, and then examine how it was spliced into the engine ecu.... I may leave the tank in place for now, but if so, how should I seal it off (it's empty). Any other key jobs?
That was of course option no 1, but a normal flat blade is too thin, and if you twist it in the slot the screwdriver blade is harder than the uj/shaft and will leave a scar