Yesterday I went for my first drive after replacing the hose on my Cruise Control. It still doesnt work.... I have also put a battery on the motor as a test, the Diaphragm pulls in, no problem...Before I dig out rave and start going through the diagnostic waterfall, what is the next most obvious probem to check?

blast of compressed air for the current one, and order a replacement aspirator from ebay :)

I wd make sure the ports are clean... get the sensor out, remove the cage, wrap a bit of emery paper round the sensor and give the port a good clean out, then grease it all up. I may be imagining it, but it seems to help the sensor self-gap more effectively, and seems to have worked for me a couple of times ie problem went away, without needing a new sensor.

You cd also try NFU... My P38 was shunted in the rear by an Admiral driver a couple of years ago - their insurers would only pay me cash for what was a refurb of the back bumper, tey refused/ were incapable of fixing it. Then it got hit by a Hastings driver (while parked) they were going to hand me to the same claims agent as the Admiral guys... so i declined to use the other party's insurer (and will do so next time too) and used mine - NFU. They took the car away, fixed it, and sent it back, no fuss. I like an insurer that will walk the talk... They are also "old school"... you can actually have a conversation with them. That said They still managed to increase my premiums by about 20% - they're all at it

I wd only contest your point about "EKA enabled" Richard... For a while i was worried that disabling the EKA would mean that the BECM would not still accept the EKA, bu then proved to mysalf that it does (by toggling the enabled/ disabled feature, and causing the engine disable to kick in... In that sense we are saying the same thing, but then what's the harm in disabling the EKA, rather than leaving it enabled ? I have my EKA disabled and haven't had to input the EKA for a long time - i had to do it twice in anger, on my previous P38 - once at a service station (which i suppose must have been electrical interference) and the other time when the battery went flat (left the lights on all night)

I followed marty's suggestion
..it was v quick to remove the abs mountings of the switches with a soldering iron . The switches are a bit fiddly to open, but easy to clean once inside- I used a fibre glass pencil to remove the dirt. Then drill a 1mm hole where the switches sit and use small screws to mount them

Tested the circuit...definitely the switches... the logo on the switches looks something like 3SE, but in slightly digital font... does that mean anything to anyone?

Thanks for that Marty - i've tested the tracks and have continuity on all... I blasted the switches with contact cleaner (optimistic I know) but I'll retest the whole circuit before going with the de-soldering option. There had defo been some sort of condensation issue, and the lacquer had come off one of the tracks

The switches In my interior lights don't work, and I was wondering if anyone has worked out the correct replacement from RS or wherever... They're the little square metal latched variety with the trim-coloured button on top...3 in the main overhead light...

that's insane

I used a 2nd hand one and resprayed - worked out fine

:) Happy New Year to y'all. May your P38's run as sweet as a nut in 2024

I guess it's essentially draught excluder, but if you go on ebay you can buy single sided foam tape in multiple thicknesses and widths...I like the 3mm x 15mm. But I also apply the duct tape to the outside as well... Especially the mid section (heater box to tunnel cover) that i cut with the wire saw 😀

mild steel fitted...also 3 years for a hole in the centre box, so it seems consistent

Tnx, good to know

Re handbrake
If you can bear it, remove the handbrake drum to inspect it...oil contamination in there will limit the handbrake power no matter how much you tighten the adjuster.

Yep. exactly as Leo says...you cd use something to try and keep top and bottom of the pipe in place... eg a cable tie

maybe puff some graphite in the lock and see what happens?

Nearly a year since i've owned this one and I haven't gone near the LPG system in all that time. Anyway, the coolant hoses for the Bigas unit that are T'd into the regular hoses looked a bit manky, so i replaced them today with some fresh coolant hose. In the course of bleeding the coolant system and running the engine at revs then i noticed that the LPG Unit started running at high revs ( i had never heard it do anything before) even with the LPG switched off at the dash... I assume that it has some kind of circulation pump in there that was probably full of air, hence the noise it was making. Is there something special I need to do to bleed the circulation system when LPG is fitted? Or it will eventually displace the air when running at full temp and pressure?

so there's no UV trace anywhere? Who did the refill ? Usually the receipt will tell you how much PAG oil and how much dye went in (if any), my refills always had the die (Kwik fit/ ATS). Personally i wouldn't start throwing bits at it until you trace the leak. My compressor was leaking around the boss and left green traces on the clutch.