better than I cd have done - waiting for the day when chat GPT can tell me how to diagnose the faults/ fix the P38
why not just tape the hole up? Personally I leave a bit of a kink in my corrugations to improve (fractionally) the rigidity and length of the pipe...and top and bottom holes don't line up on either of the two i have operated on
Can you put a U bend in to bypass the heater core? & if so what then? wd be interesting to see if the problem is with the heater core or the rest of the circuit... Do you definitely have the right direction of flow at all points?
romanrob wrote:
Think I solved the problem, but not entirely sure why... RR no 2 came with a rather sorry looking HEVAC unit in the boot... looking at it there were traces of a genuine double sided gasket on the front of the unit - so I realised that it was probably the original ECU. I tested it and found that the distribution switches were not working - which was presumably why the PO changed it out. Opened up the unit - cleaned off the contacts...installed it, and book symbol gone... The original was 101890, whereas the fitted one was 102550... whether it really has to do with the model number, still not sure, but I had a second 102550 and that was not co-operating either, so seems fairly likely.
Actually, sor anyone following, seems it's best to avoid the 101890 unit. It doesn't store the external temp and starts every journey at snowflake, so no a/c until you have hit c 35 mph for 5 mins... I had to switch back to a 102550 again. this is was the subject of a service bulletin apparently, though i didn't track down the actual doc
I guess Richard will know the answer : o) but otherwise I cd take a look at one of my spares at the weekend and see if the switches look like fixable - the rotary switch is just copper contacts, so possibly the temp switches are the same "technology". Do you have a wood surround on the HEVAC unit? that can interfere with the buttons if it is not completley lined up
HEVAC screen dimming is either the power, or could just be as easy as replacing the backlight bulb. You're sure you haven't simply pressed the dimmer switch without knowing (slider on the LH stalk) ? I'd just hate for you to start pulling things apart to find it was an easy fix
Disconnect the alarm sounder...
I usually use RTV
true - worth a go : o)
I'm chasing an "RHF air gap too large" fault, but working on the LH sensor because nano shows that that is the wheel that starts moving later than the others. To be sure that I knew which wheel nano was reporting for sure, I struck on the idea of disconnecting the LH sensor to prove that it was that wheel triggering the fault. Unfortunately i just got the error "e2" straight after. I reconnected the sensor, but now it doesn't respond at all (well, not sure it was responding before tbh), reports e2 or occasionally "e1"...and the faults message is back to RHF air gap too large
Any clues?
nah LHD owners have it easy...who said "O rings"?
ok, so the trick I am missing is moving the coolant tank... I will look into that, tnx
Just bleeding the brakes on my "new" P38, and I spent half an hour cutting away the bulkhead insulation around the rear booster bleed screw so that I could a. see it and b. get a pipe on it. Maybe I am missing a trick, but i don't see how it's possible to do the full brake bleed without removing the insulation... which means that neither of my P38s were ever properly bled before I got to them... thoughts?
I'd just have the indie test the alternator, and if necessary ship him a volrage regulator that he can change over...before you start messing around with the hvac. Iwd also highly recommend installing a voltmeter/USB socket in place of the cigar lighter, then your daughter can keep an eye on the battery voltage
Oh that...yes, PO fitted it..I kind of like it...I was going to try and fit it to my "new" one. But on examination fitting involves drilling the upper tailgate and bolting it on...and I didnt want the hassle
3rd brake light? think someone just switched the lenses (before my time...)
Is it possible to rebuild the cones?
the minimum is 600 including VAT, but the buyers fee is 6%+ VAT
Tnx Richard. I'll lob in the old light units on request :-)
Lpgc...right...free to sell and buyer pays premium. No vat on the car tho, obv.
Collecting cars seem to have quite a good formula in terms of detailed photos and full disclosure
can't remember if this is allowed- if not please delete... for your entertainment...one of my 50ths up for sale ...I can't justify running/ maintaining 2 while holding down a full time job : o)
https://collectingcars.com/for-sale/1998-range-rover-p38-4-6-vogue-50th-anniversary
Only a grand so far !!
Not enough juice on the battery...I only saw the vanishing hevac once and that was the battery collapsing... Is the alternator charging properly? Have you uprated the VR?