I stumbled across this self help group quite by chance a few days ago, having loitered on rangerovers.net for the last year. You guys must be the People's Front for Judea, I was with the Judaean People's Front. Anyway I recognise a few folks from their user names and/or garage contents, and impressed by the camps you guys seem to have periodically.
I have a 50th Defender and a 50th P38. Defender runs well, always has, on the back of basic servicing. P38 I picked up a year ago, and I keep telling myself it's only such a PITA because it was neglected for so many years. I've replaced the rear diff, changed the HU to after market, done a head gasket, o rings and various fluid changes. Next biggies: radius arm bushes (I got orange poly), panhard bushes (not so big) and working out why my air con is not playing, now that it's got hot again.
I'm gearing up for this at the mo. I have 2 sample bushes coming in at 62.2mm (Bearmach) and 62.3mm diameter (just a generic one) , with a Borg and Beck one on the way - I'll probably give in and buy genuine, but I was curious as to the differences in construction of the various options.
I expect the hole in the radius arm is about 58.6mm. I have a 30306 taper bearing cup on order, which I'm hoping will get me from <58.5mm to >62.5mm, its OD is 70mm. I have ordered various washers through Accu to get to a 58mm OD which will allow me to press on the outer edge while not pressing on the inner (24mm OD).
Clive, I'd be interested in your pdf too.
Thanks Morat - i wasn't very clear - I have orange poly _currently_and yes, no way in hell am I installing poly going forward... I will post on the air con once I've done a bit more diagnostics. I have nano, but not sure I've fully mastered it yet.
Thanks for the welcome gents - esp Chris/ Richard who have already helped me loads. Re the poly bushes, they need to come out one way or another, I'm getting fairly regular death wobbles 55-70. I read the posts here on poly bush removal (naively I had thought they wd be a piece of p***), and reckon I may use some plumbers freezing spray to see if that makes the bushes drillable (with a hole saw). I am brimming with optimism and confidence !!
I'm planning to use a threaded bar and my favourite piece of kit a DeWalt impact gun :o) Worst case I'll end up at the local garage and borrow their press, I couldn't quite bring myself to buy a press, yet...
I have 3 radius arm bushes on my bench now one generic, one Bearmach, one Borg and Beck. The plastic outer of each looks slightly different, but have the same dimensions to +/- 0.5mm, that said the generic and B&B branded ones are both embossed 5003 H on the rubber. Both B&B and the generic one have an alloy centre tube (coming in at 18g). Bearmach uses steel (25g). Given that someone crushed the centre tube of one of the bushes on torquing up, is steel the way to go? Are the genuine ones steel or ali centre tubes? I may just splurge on 4 genuines, but was curious enough to want to know the difference.
30306 taper bearing arrived today... the cup tapers from 63.8mm to 58.5mm with a height of 16mm. Cost £3-50, fingers crossed
Not much help, but my drinks lid is also a bit rubbish. You can shorten the bolt if you want. I think originally it was probably a cotter pin with some kind of split pin in the end. I put an M4/5 on mine with a nyloc nut. I had to buy a new strut, but that didn't seem to help. Don't bother using SGS to refill them, you'll just have to buy new... Someone will hopefully tell us if they ever really worked very well. And having a load of drinks at your elbow is a disaster waiting to happen
Ok, but then the steel centre tubes seem to be the way to go then? ie just "normal" rust but no galvanic corrosion...
I've pushed the new bush through the taper bearing twice now, as a dress rehearsal, all good. I wound it through on an M12 bar using an impact wrench, no dramas, maybe 20 seconds? Next stop radius arms
I ordered some washers M40 A type has a 58mm OD, and anything greater than M24 clears the centre of the bush. Have a look at Accu, good range of stainless washers several mm thick, I spent 5 or 6 quid on the washers
Forewarned is forearmed, and all that... I assure you these polybushes will die one way or the other. I have the PO to thank for the poly bushes ie not my choice
I'm all about the planning for my radius arm removal... and read horror stories of grinders and air chisels
When removing the old bolts from the axle bushes on the radius arms, it look like you can loosen off the nylocs,drop the anti-roll bar down and then access the Radius arm bolt heads. Then an impact wrench would shock the bolts into twisting loose - or did that not work ?
+1 for watching, and test the heated screen after.
Have a supply of short flanged stainless screws on hand, keep a dremel / cutting disk nearby in case the screws are rusted.
Tell Autoglass it's a 2 man job...it took two of them an hour and a half to do mine.
Try and get a few of the clips for the lower trim, they are like rocking horse shit though. Needs someone with access to a 3D printer to knock some out
I did one radius arm today. Cut the nuts off the axle bolts, fortunately the bolts themselves were not seized in the metal core of the poly bushes. I drove the metal cores out on an M12 bar (have some 15mm steel pipe on hand, I only had copper, it works, just). Then I got a pry bar between the two halves of the poly bush and yanked, they came out whole, with a bit of persuasion.
I probably could have done a better job of clearing the rust out of the radius arm holes, but anyway I drove the bushes (used bearmach) in using an M12 bar/ an ebay chinese bush removal kit and through the 30306 taper bearing cup/ race. I put a jubilee clip around the top end of the bush (not massively tight) to stop it spreading under load. I put the lower nut of the M12 bar into a vice, with the radius arm on the bench. Last 10 turns I did by hand with a 1m breaker bar. One man job, no press needed, but made full use of my impact wrench/ breaker bar.
One bush drove totally true, one is maybe 1mm off, but I blame that on my poor prep of the radius arms, most likely.
Next time? I think I'll use a jubilee clip to attach my M40 washers to the bush "pusher" so that they don't slide about. The kits carry the right diameter but the core of these radius arm bushes protrude quite a long way and need extra washers to clear it without pushing the core or the rubber. Could be a 10 minute job to drive the bushes if I find the magic combo of washers/ pushers, and a better way to clean the inside of the radius arms, maybe with the grinding wheel on a dremel - a flap sander was pretty useless. I don't have a die grinder
lol - yeh Robbo you must have spent a long time on that
I'm good for ride heights, electronic troubleshooting manual and a TSB about a rocking front seat :o) If LR challenges copyright at this point in the "life" cycle they would just be consigning the last of the P38s to their final resting place. We enthusiasts are the only reason these babies are still alive, and they're hardly intuitive to work on (well, not to me, anyhow). Makes me appreciate my Defender more by the day
Did the other radius arm today... bolts rusted into bushes, SDS hammer drill to release. Then poly bushes removed as above. I spent a lot longer cleaning the radius arms this time and as a result didn't need the breaker bar to wind the bushes in. the 30306 race does the job... c 15 mins per bush. Next time i'd get some 60-62mm OD washers too. Now i can get back to the AC
I guess we need to email attachments to Gordon?