depends how often you drive it? Buy any modern car and you will pay more than 20 pounds per day in depreciation ( from a fellow ulez resident)
Sure, i have the whole thing apart to replace the large fuel filler hose... this is more of a generic question about getting 10mm of nylon hose into 8mm of rubber hose when you cant simply put the rubber hose in a cup of hot water
I needed to change the large rubber hose from the fuel filler neck to the tank. In the process a 10mm (ED) nylon line which goes into a rubber hose (8mm ID )on top of the tank came out...and i cant ger it back in...and the rubber is inaccesible for boiling water...i was thinking i could put a warm jacket on the rubber to heat it up? Or should i just insert a quick fit connector in any case?
Any other bright ideas?
I have two spare hevac controllers i can open up, but what am i looking for?
If you put a uv light in the engine bay what fluoresces? My leak was from the boss of the compressor as well as the condensor
As for doing one side or both... the bank with the steering column is a pita, so if that side is not leaking then theres a reasonable argument to leave it alone
That said, i only did the leaking side first, and then six months later ended up having to do the other one anyway...so maybe both, since you have other cars
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Hi all,
Does anyone know where you can get replacement steel "wings" to go inside the rear bumper? Seems everything back there just corrodes, so i'm only really interested in new, not buying off breakers
I have removed two cig lighters in favour of usb sockets, which are way more useful IMHO and mine also have a voltmeter , so i can keep an eye on the battery and alternator I've probably got one of the ones i removed if you're really keen.
Like rocking horse shit...
Coverzone voyager. Not a perfect fit, but the closest i have tried out of 3
No, this is a lesser known issue - the earlier head units also had a tendency to stay at -40/ snowflake mode after start up. Can't remember where i saw that... rr.net probably, but as soon as i changed the HU for a later serial number the problem was solved. I suppose the serial number thing could be a complete red herring, but the change in HU certainly solved the issue for me
Didnt have the patience to read through all this, sorry...whats the serial number on your Hevac head unit? I suspect it's an early one that has the snow flake issue and that using a later one may help. I had the same issue on my second p38....changed head unit, problem solved
A few years back I did a loom extension to the IAT with extra resistors so that the ECM sees a raised intake temperature (I had time on my hands, at that point). Pretty sure it makes zero difference, as Richard says
Sure, but both guide pins on the left were fine. Perhaps there was some other obstruction, or they were choked with brake dust. Anyway, hopefully will all be fine now
The other day my RR failed its MOT due to one of the rear pads (left outer) being worn down to 1.5mm...all the others were 7/8mm. I completely re-did the rear brakes, changed the discs, replaced the pads, and cleaned the whole lot up. The only other thing i found is that one of the right hand carrier guide pins was fairly well seized... So what do we think happened? does all the pressure go to the LH rear because the circuit senses that the RH is seized. Why would only one pad - the LH outer be worn so badly, while the LH inner ie piston side was hardly worn at all ?
Yes, do the rational thing :)
Thanks, wd be great... I will DM you the postal address
Gilbertd wrote:
I've got one that I took out of the red car when I fitted the LPG tank. It's yours if you want it.