The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
757 posts

I guess it's essentially draught excluder, but if you go on ebay you can buy single sided foam tape in multiple thicknesses and widths...I like the 3mm x 15mm. But I also apply the duct tape to the outside as well... Especially the mid section (heater box to tunnel cover) that i cut with the wire saw 😀

mild steel fitted...also 3 years for a hole in the centre box, so it seems consistent

Tnx, good to know

Re handbrake
If you can bear it, remove the handbrake drum to inspect it...oil contamination in there will limit the handbrake power no matter how much you tighten the adjuster.

Yep. exactly as Leo says...you cd use something to try and keep top and bottom of the pipe in place... eg a cable tie

maybe puff some graphite in the lock and see what happens?

Nearly a year since i've owned this one and I haven't gone near the LPG system in all that time. Anyway, the coolant hoses for the Bigas unit that are T'd into the regular hoses looked a bit manky, so i replaced them today with some fresh coolant hose. In the course of bleeding the coolant system and running the engine at revs then i noticed that the LPG Unit started running at high revs ( i had never heard it do anything before) even with the LPG switched off at the dash... I assume that it has some kind of circulation pump in there that was probably full of air, hence the noise it was making. Is there something special I need to do to bleed the circulation system when LPG is fitted? Or it will eventually displace the air when running at full temp and pressure?

so there's no UV trace anywhere? Who did the refill ? Usually the receipt will tell you how much PAG oil and how much dye went in (if any), my refills always had the die (Kwik fit/ ATS). Personally i wouldn't start throwing bits at it until you trace the leak. My compressor was leaking around the boss and left green traces on the clutch.

seems i had it easy... my sub is XQA100020... no need to relocate any amp (is mounted outside) and the 6.5 inch bass speakers i bought off ebay slotted straight in : o)

m8 i think...recent thread on landyzone...

thanks both

hi Chasman,

How did the refurb go? Any speakers that you would recommend (& links)?

better than I cd have done - waiting for the day when chat GPT can tell me how to diagnose the faults/ fix the P38

why not just tape the hole up? Personally I leave a bit of a kink in my corrugations to improve (fractionally) the rigidity and length of the pipe...and top and bottom holes don't line up on either of the two i have operated on

Can you put a U bend in to bypass the heater core? & if so what then? wd be interesting to see if the problem is with the heater core or the rest of the circuit... Do you definitely have the right direction of flow at all points?

romanrob wrote:

Think I solved the problem, but not entirely sure why... RR no 2 came with a rather sorry looking HEVAC unit in the boot... looking at it there were traces of a genuine double sided gasket on the front of the unit - so I realised that it was probably the original ECU. I tested it and found that the distribution switches were not working - which was presumably why the PO changed it out. Opened up the unit - cleaned off the contacts...installed it, and book symbol gone... The original was 101890, whereas the fitted one was 102550... whether it really has to do with the model number, still not sure, but I had a second 102550 and that was not co-operating either, so seems fairly likely.

Actually, sor anyone following, seems it's best to avoid the 101890 unit. It doesn't store the external temp and starts every journey at snowflake, so no a/c until you have hit c 35 mph for 5 mins... I had to switch back to a 102550 again. this is was the subject of a service bulletin apparently, though i didn't track down the actual doc

I guess Richard will know the answer : o) but otherwise I cd take a look at one of my spares at the weekend and see if the switches look like fixable - the rotary switch is just copper contacts, so possibly the temp switches are the same "technology". Do you have a wood surround on the HEVAC unit? that can interfere with the buttons if it is not completley lined up

HEVAC screen dimming is either the power, or could just be as easy as replacing the backlight bulb. You're sure you haven't simply pressed the dimmer switch without knowing (slider on the LH stalk) ? I'd just hate for you to start pulling things apart to find it was an easy fix

Disconnect the alarm sounder...

I usually use RTV

true - worth a go : o)