About 30 years ago (before Google) at Billing Aquadrome (just a Land Rover show, at a country park, albeit on the off-road course) a winch cable snapped, and killed the driver (cable shot straight back through the windscreen). If a recovery point fails you may well be worried about more than cutting and welding a new one. You want the strongest recovery gear you can get - rated to exceed the pull of the winch (or snatch etc etc). Of course if the standard towing eyes are the only option in the field then that's what you'll have to go with, but better to be prepared if you can. Many moons ago I had to get a tractor to recover my Series 3 from a "green lane" they're not all dirt roads, and this time of year are likely to be more brown than green. This is why most LR clubs have the rule about recovery points, it sounds like overkill, until it's not.
On the rear, as I said, you should be able to find a bow shackle to fit the towbar directly, assuming you can get the swan neck off. And don't forget to remove the lower skirt on the front bumper
Re Nano - it's in the instrumentation section, but doesn't let you re-program anything, so not much use day to day.
Good point re GPS - there must be some kind of back door
Well, I'm the kind of useful idiot rr.pub needs, so I took one for the team, using the sill button/ open window method to get to engine disabled. v37/ GEMS.
First off I did it with EKA enabled, just to be sure when I disable the engine I could get back with a. the Fob, and b. the EKA code, and yes, all fine - dash message "engine disabled enter the EKA or press the remote". Since I hadn't gone battery flat then the fob signal didn't need synching. I tried to change the EKA to "disabled" in the BeCM while the engine was disabled, but it didn't accept the change in that state.
Then I disabled EKA, wrote settings, came out and went back in again - EKA disabled. Locked the door with the fob, opened with the sill button. Turned the ignition on, this time "engine disabled, press the remote". BUT, when I went into the BECM at this point the EKA option is marked "enabled". After entering the EKA code, and going into BeCM/ Alarm the EKA setting had now reverted to "Disabled". So it appears that the BeCM always leaves the backdoor open for EKA entry, even if the EKA option has supposedly been disabled, and it doesn't actually ask for the EKA on the dash.
And as a supplement to test the key blade only theory... with EKA enabled, simulated engine disabled, the key in the door unlocks only the driver's door, and does nothing to cancel the engine disabled message on the dash - as expected then. With EKA disabled - the key in the door opens all 4 doors, and does actually cancel the engine disabled state, and the car drives away...
So it looks as if you CAN disable EKA in the BeCM, but still be able to enter the EKA (even if not asked for) - but allowing the key in the door as an extra option to getting going. The only difference with a flat battery is that the remote most likely is out of synch too - but that gives you EKA and key in the door as recovery options still.
Interested to see if others get to the same conclusion
What are those things for ? Mine are the worse for wear, and I need some new ones...does anyone have a name for them? - or part code :o)
Tanis - your "cut the seal" fix... how's it bearing up? would you recommend it, and what did you use to fill the gap. Ive just remounted my old seal, but it may well have shrunk and so need a cut too
I think the pin type is a red herring (still interested for the future, if some has a reference doc for Connector make/ model).
If I put the lights on with ignition on and remove the relay I get the same flashing effect so the new pin seems fine - but the second you remove the earth from the H/L switch - either because the relay is inactive, or the relay has been removed then you get the flashing (the lights don't do anything with switch off). I'm assuming it is some sort of BeCM logic I have fallen foul of - so maybe it's just better not to try and interrupt the ground to that switch.
Any thoughts? I may just replace the original ground pin in C219 and see what happens if I put the relay on the OR wire to interrupt the headlight wire to the BeCM instead
To get into the "Service Mode" of the factory navigation, go into the "Settings" menu and then press and hold the "Menu" button for about 10s. From memory it doesn't give you much to play around with - just testing of sensor/button inputs and showing hardware/software versions, and checking GPS reception.
Marty...our other resident gold mine... someone should develop Trivial Pursuit for P38s
sounds like an elegant solution - it's nice when you get to put these things to bed
Lol...too honest for your own good. Don't forget to take your bags for life, and a really long shopping list. I'm sure the police have better things to do, but don't stop off at any Derbyshire beauty spots
Tnx Leo, that photo must have been a brand new one - looks gleaming. I have the top wooden piece, but where the blaupunkt stereo is removed there is a gap to fill to replace it with a single din unit.
I had thought of builders foam too, but as you say, that stuff is hard to control, and would just as easily blow out the sides of the centre console, so yes I'm fishing around for which plastic to use. what I'm trying at the moment is v brittle, even heated ( just scrap from my garage - acrylic/ acetate I think) so possibly I need to source some ABS
Tnx Richard, I have two on the roof, so I guess one was TV, and the other probably after mkt radio. HNH has one tho, as per his YouTube vid
Too true. Mission complete, as of today. Did a tray out of wood, and the front lined in a few mm of foam with a distressed ( to make it look the same) PU leather covering. Wood's good as it takes multiple retaining staples for the covering. Not sure how I would have achieved the same effect using plastic tbh. The foam helps mould to the multiple contours of the centre console
lol - the shocks i took off mine did little more than act as height limiters, they went up and down like concertinas. Gas-filled Monroes will give you the best ride for the price IMHO. Bilstein are in a different price bracket. Boge are only available as fronts, for some reason
Mine too (Apr 98 production), sorry
First off - there is a Sony remote. This still works - and will change the inputs through video 1/2/ Navi (blank) and TV (fuzz). Presumably fires the sensor connected in the face of the wooden console to do this
Here's the wiring for the RSE - the blue audio cabling is coming from two magic silver boxes (see next)
OK - i'm an imgur virgin, here goes - start point, with aluminium angle screwed to the bottom and two wood pieces to brace the top hinge - someone either cut the top edge, or the plastic weld simply just broke, so the hinges were floating
Hooray, now I have to figure out how the hell i did that
Still hand editing links, but closing in on the solution - here's the wooden tray
FInal product. I'll work on the colour match if i get seriously bored
I thought we cd have an "any ideas ?" thread to identify the random bit that you had left after reassembling your RR - or the random connector without a component etc