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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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Inviting comments from anyone who's familiar with the anatomy of the driver's side floor channel (the one which runs along the sill and contains the bundles of loom wiring). I emptied mine of water a few days ago, and removed a load of water from the insulation under the driver's side carpet. At the time I figured it had got there courtesy of a disconnected a/c drain during the summer. However, two days later the channel has half filled again (to be fair, it has rained alot)...the door seal's not damaged, that I can see, and no real signs of water around the door. Could the contents of one of the sunroof drains end up in that channel, if one had become dislodged? Is there mean to be a one way valve or something, in that channel, which would allow things to drain?

Tnx for your help....

In the pub all topics valid, right?

So - my fridge freezer started to trip the circuit breaker a few days ago - My nano couldn't connect, so in true P38 style I disconnected everything I could until the circuit breaker didn't trip, and then reconnected things bit by bit.... Turns out the defrost heater element is shorting to the outer case - which was touching the earthed cooling matrix... so, my question is... how about I put a heat shrink sleeve on said heater matrix tube? It shrinks at 100 degrees, which is more than the heating element will be allowed to generate (it's in series with a bimetallic thermal relay - which is closed only below +5 deg C) - the only question is if the heat-shrink can stand repeated heat.... or is there a kind of rubberised but heat-resistant paint I could get for the element?

Not sure if anyone's had this,but: for the last couple of days when cornering right i have noticed a bit of a creak coming from under the car, seems.to be the rear. It sounds as if it is on rusty springs, which it's not...
So this is if i'm either going round a RH bend at 30+, or also as i'm exiting a RAB ie also steering right). I dont think this is a steering thing... Front suspension is pretty much all replaced in the last year, along with rear shocks. Could be an anti roll bar, or bush ( i'm guessing rear) i also thought exhaust mountings. Anyway, i'll go under and have a look, just curious if it rang a bell with someone...

Does anyone have a good trick for removing this? I have set it at 45 degrees up, and the arm rest has moved about 5mm off its boss, but is still pretty tight, and no amount of wiggling has budged it yet.
What am i missing?

Does anyone else feel like the oily bits and electrickery is a false dichotomy... I just find myself having to look in more places anyway, and when doing bodywork/ interior, where does that go?

I must be bored, but my alternator kicks out anything from 13.7 to 14.0 (scraping 14.1 sometimes). I have an S4 Bosch battery (which says that the min voltage shd be 12.4V to avoid damage). It's hard to figure out if the Bosch (Varta) battery contains calcium - multiple searches are completely silent - so I guess that means not, although Battery Megastore says it is - Bosch themselves don't seem to say

I'm obviously not getting to drive it much these days, but battery voltage falls below 12.4V fairly often - that said, I never have problems cranking. If the voltage drops then I chuck it on a smart charger every few weeks, and now I have a solar panel on the parcel shelf (jury's still out on that). Guessing that my set point is about 14.0V currently (which I think was on spec for the year/model) then should I look for a VR with a higher set point ? Does anyone have a positive ID on one?

Anyone got good recommendations for a solar panel to sit in the car? Don't worry about wiring I'll deal with that. My car uses about 25ma quiescent, and 600ma when the becm is awake. All I want is to trickle it when stood still, I have a smart charger as and when I want to charge it properly, and a volt meter on the cigarette socket. I suppose 15W will give good coverage,
and diode protection to stop overnight discharge. Not sure if I need to care about a charge regulator, but they're not so expensive. SunPower monocrystalline seems to come up as good tech....blah blah, but does anyone have any specific ones to recommend?

I thought we cd have an "any ideas ?" thread to identify the random bit that you had left after reassembling your RR - or the random connector without a component etc

trim in forum Opening time

The 50th has in-car entertainment at the back of the centre console. PO ripped out the old vhs machine and replaced it with a dvd - fair enough - but the vhs unit was probably 1.5 DIN, the DVD unit is just 1, and he/ she did a p*** poor job of remounting it, so I want to fix it. The centre console is leather covered, and I need to fashion a fascia to go at the back of it, in which to mount the single din unit, for passenger access. It mounts just above the floor vents. The fascia ideally should be slightly curved, to match the contours of the back of the console. I can use wood and epoxy to build the innards of what I need to mount the dvd player, but I can't work out what material is best to use for the face plate (which I will then cover with a thin layer of foam and faux leather). I'm messing around with some acrylic at the moment, but it's a bit painful. I could try a sheet of ABS, or acetate. Or try and fab something in fibre glass, even papier mache !! I'm sure there's something better/ easier - ideas anyone?

I have the dash off my RR.
Q1. The blend and distribution motors were 90% ok before I started (periodic service book symbol), but anyway, now that I have everything out the HEVAC is showing me “Feedback circuit on RH blend motor faulty” (or some such – reporting via Nanocom).
I'm not an electronics expert, but possibly know enough to be dangerous. I can move the motors back and forth with a 9V battery. I took the 10k ohm pot off the board of the RH blend motor (ie desoldered it), and it goes all the way from 0 to 10k ohms (measured on multi-meter), but when I soldered it back to the board it goes from 0 to 3k ohms mid-range, and back to zero again (measured at the circuit board) - looking at the ETM there is a dotted line going from the pot to the motor, so maybe something is messing with the way the DMM measures resistance. Thing is all 3 blend motors seem to be like that (I didn't remove the pots from all 3 though!!). I’m just measuring this on a Uni_T multi-meter 20k ohm range – the fact that all 3 are the same may just mean my meter’s getting it wrong. Or maybe my test is wrong (just measured between the white/ wiper and one of the reference legs of the pot)?
Anyway – if the feedback error is not due to a dodgy pot then what else ? wiring? I think I may scrap the RH blend motor anyway, as the case has been cooked by a hot heater matrix manifold at some point (although the innards look fine ) but the principle is so simple that it then annoys me I can’t crack it !! As future-proofing I'm considering just installing 3 brand new ones at this point - just because accessing the blend motors is such a PITA.
Q2. Has anyone had any luck freeing the Distribution mechanism - I've greased all the pivots i can see, but it's still quite stiff - the gearing in the blend motor shifts it without complaint though. There seem to be two black toothed wheels driven by the main grey one, how do the black wheels come off ? Pull hard? I found a link to someone who had dismantled the whole heater box to do this, which i'm not very keen on.

What are those things for ? Mine are the worse for wear, and I need some new ones...does anyone have a name for them? - or part code :o)

Guy on LZ reckons that disabling the EKA on nanocom ( as well as disabling the passive immobilisation) means that the car no longer requires the EKA in it s alarmed state ( obviously) but also no longer requires a fob signal - it will simply accept the key to restart from an alarmed state.

What do we think? Plausible? Still not sure I want to disable EKA until I see it in LR documentation with my own eyes

V8 Gems... should i care that my crankcase breather hose does not have an oil separator in it? Never has since i've had it. The exhaust smells a bit at idle, but the car doesn't noticeably burn oil. Just wondering whether I need to buy an over-priced piece of plastic or not?

This guy (aka Lancashire Sports and Performance) was responsible for selling me my P38 a couple of years back off of Car and Classic. He claimed to be a "P38 specialist" but his inability to fault check basic things makes us look like Charles Spencer King ( ie he's either incompetent, or a liar). Apart from a load of cr** he spun me about the car, MOT etc, he also advertised it using fake pictures - when you're advertising a numbered limited edition that's a pretty dumb thing to do, right?
Anyway - this guy is so brazen he is now using the same set of pictures (ie the ones that were supposedly of my car, but weren't) to sell another 50th Range Rover. I guess he got kicked off car and classic and so has just set up an ebay account, feedback 1. I know we pub-folk aren't necessarily in the market for a second/ third P38 anyway, but just be warned, go in with your eyes wide open if you do ever get tempted to deal with him.

Gents,
I know the GEMS does not "need" a gasket between the inlet manifold and the lower plenum/ trumpet section. But on the other hand is there any harm in fitting one? Whenever i've unbolted the section (ok, so only 3 times) there seems to evidence of the inlet galleries talking to one another (though not that there is leaking to/ from the outside) ie i can see a brown oily film between galleries, where there wd only have been blue hylomar on assembly. I though I could nail it with the ERR6621 gasket ? Thoughts?

I have a weep of compressor oil which find its way out past the clutch. From time to time I have to clean the clutch gap to ensure the clutch engages when it should. It's workable, but replacing what's probably just one seal will give me on less thing to maintain. Has anyone ripped one of these babies apart/ replaced the seals?

I get a vaguely nauseous/ "not fresh air" smell coming from my HVAC. I think it's more heat associated than with the AC, which makes me think that the outside of the heater matrix might need a rinse. I redid the o rings in the summer, but was on AC for months, and only recently started to require heat. It was quite unpleasant at first, and is becoming less noticeable now. I have no reason to think the matrix is leaking. I'm not too hot on the HVAC anatomy, but does anyone know of any good ways to clean the outside of the matrix? There are various "bombs" available on the market - anyone found a good one? If i wanted to do a more physical clean is that going to be a dash-off job, or is there a pathway to getting an aerosol solvent directly into the heater box via one of the vents?

As is traditional for me (don't start), a routine disassembly becomes more complicated as a result of a sheared bolt. Removing the water pump for inspection, it was the centre top bolt - with the thread exposed at the back, so likely corroded in. The good news, the bolt sheared just below the hex, so maximum bolt length to remove the stud. The bad news, the bolts are threaded for their entire length, so I can't get the pump off due to this one sheared bolt.

The bolt seems to be an M8 flanged 30mm. Lrcat talks about M8 but 25mm - I doubt it matters greatly, but I just wanted to be sure I had the right spec, anyone know?

I'm hoping that when I get the water pump off I find that the impeller is on its way out, which will make me feel better. There's definitely some play in the bearing, so that's good.

When I came to switching the ECT sensor on my 98 GEMS, it turns out that my PO stripped the seat of the sensor and glued it into place with something hard/ yellow. I'm guessing it was an epoxy glue. The question now is what's my best option to reseat it. Is it helicoilable? Or should I go the way of the PO and glue it into place? If so, what's the best glue/ to use?

V8 starts on the nose,and idles fine, from cold. A couple of times the other day i "had fun" restarting when I'd just stopped for 5-10 minutes. Engine turned over no problem, but didn't fire up. After a few attempts it just about caught, and I had to keep it rev'd to 1500 for 15-20 secs for it to stop choking. As soon as I had it under load ie in reverse or 1st then it could idle at 650 again.

Does anyone recognise the symptoms?

I haven't yet cleaned up the IACV since i bought it, or fitted a new fuel filter, and i will shortly change the exhaust down-pipes and so clean the oxygen sensors at the same time. MAFs clean, injectors are ok, spark plugs and HT leads are new