My cooling fan shattered today, took out the side of the battery box, ripped one of the lower coolant hoses, destroyed the radiator shroud, dented the bonnet, shredded the sound proofing, holed the rad and also somehow seems to have knocked out the power steering. slighly ironic, as i'd just picked it up from the welders getting the door sills done and spent a few quid....
Coolant system shd be repairable, but the PS has me a bit mystified, no sign of hose damage, and the fan belt still runs the pump. I'll just try topping it up with Diii and see what happens.
I seem to recall this (disintegrating fan) happened to one of us before, but forgot who?

Slightly off topic, But I have a friend who wants to convert a 110 to v8, but lives in the ULEZ zone, so wants it to be ULEZ compliant. Is there such a thing as a compliant V8 which could "readily" be dropped in - the next problem would be convincing TFL, of course...

So I have been trying to nurse my a/c back to health... compressor changed, o rings replaced, full a/c charge, clutch engages off a 9V battery and a/c will run cold, evaporator will go sub 10 degrees no problem. With the regular electrics connected then I can see the a/c request kicking in within a few seconds of ignition start (nanocom, read from the ECM). I can also toggle the a/c request on and off with the a/c switch, so the nano reading is good, and live. Request is an active-low 12v connection.

The A/c grant is 5V, also active low. As far as I can see I don't get the grant back from the ECM - does anyone have the exact GEMS criteria for grant? BBS talks about temperature, load and acceleration... but what specifically? The nanocom HEVAC connection is pretty unreliable once the car has started (it says it can't connect, but still reports most input variables), but it reports no grant. When I have time I will pull the ECU and confirm that by testing the pin. I tend to believe the nano for now re lack of grant, but not 100%. Because the grant is active low then there can't be a wire break

As a plan B I was thinking to join the A/c request output from the HEVAC, via a 5V regulator to the a/c grant input to the HEVAC - then they would both go active low together automatically, and would be 12v/5v inactive....would this do as a work-around?

Thoughts welcome

Rgds, Rob

I'm looking for a good way to free up my distrubtion flaps, and have found reference to putting a self tapping screw in the heater box "somewhere", but does anyone have a ref or pic? Seems the definitive guide was on rr.net once upon a time, all i get is dead links, but maybe someone here has actually done it?

My switch pack decided to pack up... all switches dead.. It went from working to not working after being left standing for a week during lock-down. I think there was one trip where it was intermittent, but it went very quickly. It wasn't particularly damp/ humid, but it was cold, for sure.

I checked Fuse 1, which was fine - it controls a bunch of other stuff as well, like the instruments, so was unlikely to have been the issue. One thread said check the relay... but i'm not sure there are relays in the circuit (unless anyone knows differently).

I have taken the board out, and tested the board side of the blue connector when connected to the car. I see 12v incoming for the switch pack, and 12v incoming for the illumination (switches on and off with the headlights. I can also see 12v and 5v on the feet of the voltage regulator. I can read continuity between earth and the pins in marty's pin-out mapping or rr.net for all the window switches. Visually, under the caps, the contacts of all the switches look clean. There was a bit of corrosion on some of the soldered feet of the power connector and the main chap , but nothing too scary - cleaned it up with contact cleaner
I even disconnected the battery and reconnected it (some folks report that that works, although I was sceptical) but that had no effect, other than to ask me to reset all my windows, lol
nanocom can move all the windows no problem - so becm/ windows are fine.

What's the next most likely point of failure. A fried main chip in the switch pack?

Tnx, Rob

So, my a/c compressor has a slow leak around the seals (green/UV oil gets spun off the clutch). So i decided to fix it...I have a replacement compressor (long since gave up on the hope of finding a seal kit), a new receiver drier and bunch of metric green o rings... The replacement compressor is pre-dosed with PAG oil.
Can I just bolt the new bits on and change over the pressure switches and then take it somewhere to have the ac evacuated and filled? Instructions with the compressor talk about having to flush the system etc etc - is that really necessary? Then I would need to find an ac fitter and the whole job becomes that much more expensive/ time consuming

Tnx in advance for the advice, Rob

Inviting comments from anyone who's familiar with the anatomy of the driver's side floor channel (the one which runs along the sill and contains the bundles of loom wiring). I emptied mine of water a few days ago, and removed a load of water from the insulation under the driver's side carpet. At the time I figured it had got there courtesy of a disconnected a/c drain during the summer. However, two days later the channel has half filled again (to be fair, it has rained alot)...the door seal's not damaged, that I can see, and no real signs of water around the door. Could the contents of one of the sunroof drains end up in that channel, if one had become dislodged? Is there mean to be a one way valve or something, in that channel, which would allow things to drain?

Tnx for your help....

In the pub all topics valid, right?

So - my fridge freezer started to trip the circuit breaker a few days ago - My nano couldn't connect, so in true P38 style I disconnected everything I could until the circuit breaker didn't trip, and then reconnected things bit by bit.... Turns out the defrost heater element is shorting to the outer case - which was touching the earthed cooling matrix... so, my question is... how about I put a heat shrink sleeve on said heater matrix tube? It shrinks at 100 degrees, which is more than the heating element will be allowed to generate (it's in series with a bimetallic thermal relay - which is closed only below +5 deg C) - the only question is if the heat-shrink can stand repeated heat.... or is there a kind of rubberised but heat-resistant paint I could get for the element?

Not sure if anyone's had this,but: for the last couple of days when cornering right i have noticed a bit of a creak coming from under the car, seems.to be the rear. It sounds as if it is on rusty springs, which it's not...
So this is if i'm either going round a RH bend at 30+, or also as i'm exiting a RAB ie also steering right). I dont think this is a steering thing... Front suspension is pretty much all replaced in the last year, along with rear shocks. Could be an anti roll bar, or bush ( i'm guessing rear) i also thought exhaust mountings. Anyway, i'll go under and have a look, just curious if it rang a bell with someone...

Does anyone have a good trick for removing this? I have set it at 45 degrees up, and the arm rest has moved about 5mm off its boss, but is still pretty tight, and no amount of wiggling has budged it yet.
What am i missing?

Does anyone else feel like the oily bits and electrickery is a false dichotomy... I just find myself having to look in more places anyway, and when doing bodywork/ interior, where does that go?

I must be bored, but my alternator kicks out anything from 13.7 to 14.0 (scraping 14.1 sometimes). I have an S4 Bosch battery (which says that the min voltage shd be 12.4V to avoid damage). It's hard to figure out if the Bosch (Varta) battery contains calcium - multiple searches are completely silent - so I guess that means not, although Battery Megastore says it is - Bosch themselves don't seem to say

I'm obviously not getting to drive it much these days, but battery voltage falls below 12.4V fairly often - that said, I never have problems cranking. If the voltage drops then I chuck it on a smart charger every few weeks, and now I have a solar panel on the parcel shelf (jury's still out on that). Guessing that my set point is about 14.0V currently (which I think was on spec for the year/model) then should I look for a VR with a higher set point ? Does anyone have a positive ID on one?

Anyone got good recommendations for a solar panel to sit in the car? Don't worry about wiring I'll deal with that. My car uses about 25ma quiescent, and 600ma when the becm is awake. All I want is to trickle it when stood still, I have a smart charger as and when I want to charge it properly, and a volt meter on the cigarette socket. I suppose 15W will give good coverage,
and diode protection to stop overnight discharge. Not sure if I need to care about a charge regulator, but they're not so expensive. SunPower monocrystalline seems to come up as good tech....blah blah, but does anyone have any specific ones to recommend?

I thought we cd have an "any ideas ?" thread to identify the random bit that you had left after reassembling your RR - or the random connector without a component etc

The 50th has in-car entertainment at the back of the centre console. PO ripped out the old vhs machine and replaced it with a dvd - fair enough - but the vhs unit was probably 1.5 DIN, the DVD unit is just 1, and he/ she did a p*** poor job of remounting it, so I want to fix it. The centre console is leather covered, and I need to fashion a fascia to go at the back of it, in which to mount the single din unit, for passenger access. It mounts just above the floor vents. The fascia ideally should be slightly curved, to match the contours of the back of the console. I can use wood and epoxy to build the innards of what I need to mount the dvd player, but I can't work out what material is best to use for the face plate (which I will then cover with a thin layer of foam and faux leather). I'm messing around with some acrylic at the moment, but it's a bit painful. I could try a sheet of ABS, or acetate. Or try and fab something in fibre glass, even papier mache !! I'm sure there's something better/ easier - ideas anyone?

I have the dash off my RR.
Q1. The blend and distribution motors were 90% ok before I started (periodic service book symbol), but anyway, now that I have everything out the HEVAC is showing me “Feedback circuit on RH blend motor faulty” (or some such – reporting via Nanocom).
I'm not an electronics expert, but possibly know enough to be dangerous. I can move the motors back and forth with a 9V battery. I took the 10k ohm pot off the board of the RH blend motor (ie desoldered it), and it goes all the way from 0 to 10k ohms (measured on multi-meter), but when I soldered it back to the board it goes from 0 to 3k ohms mid-range, and back to zero again (measured at the circuit board) - looking at the ETM there is a dotted line going from the pot to the motor, so maybe something is messing with the way the DMM measures resistance. Thing is all 3 blend motors seem to be like that (I didn't remove the pots from all 3 though!!). I’m just measuring this on a Uni_T multi-meter 20k ohm range – the fact that all 3 are the same may just mean my meter’s getting it wrong. Or maybe my test is wrong (just measured between the white/ wiper and one of the reference legs of the pot)?
Anyway – if the feedback error is not due to a dodgy pot then what else ? wiring? I think I may scrap the RH blend motor anyway, as the case has been cooked by a hot heater matrix manifold at some point (although the innards look fine ) but the principle is so simple that it then annoys me I can’t crack it !! As future-proofing I'm considering just installing 3 brand new ones at this point - just because accessing the blend motors is such a PITA.
Q2. Has anyone had any luck freeing the Distribution mechanism - I've greased all the pivots i can see, but it's still quite stiff - the gearing in the blend motor shifts it without complaint though. There seem to be two black toothed wheels driven by the main grey one, how do the black wheels come off ? Pull hard? I found a link to someone who had dismantled the whole heater box to do this, which i'm not very keen on.

What are those things for ? Mine are the worse for wear, and I need some new ones...does anyone have a name for them? - or part code :o)

Guy on LZ reckons that disabling the EKA on nanocom ( as well as disabling the passive immobilisation) means that the car no longer requires the EKA in it s alarmed state ( obviously) but also no longer requires a fob signal - it will simply accept the key to restart from an alarmed state.

What do we think? Plausible? Still not sure I want to disable EKA until I see it in LR documentation with my own eyes

V8 Gems... should i care that my crankcase breather hose does not have an oil separator in it? Never has since i've had it. The exhaust smells a bit at idle, but the car doesn't noticeably burn oil. Just wondering whether I need to buy an over-priced piece of plastic or not?

This guy (aka Lancashire Sports and Performance) was responsible for selling me my P38 a couple of years back off of Car and Classic. He claimed to be a "P38 specialist" but his inability to fault check basic things makes us look like Charles Spencer King ( ie he's either incompetent, or a liar). Apart from a load of cr** he spun me about the car, MOT etc, he also advertised it using fake pictures - when you're advertising a numbered limited edition that's a pretty dumb thing to do, right?
Anyway - this guy is so brazen he is now using the same set of pictures (ie the ones that were supposedly of my car, but weren't) to sell another 50th Range Rover. I guess he got kicked off car and classic and so has just set up an ebay account, feedback 1. I know we pub-folk aren't necessarily in the market for a second/ third P38 anyway, but just be warned, go in with your eyes wide open if you do ever get tempted to deal with him.