Did anyone successfully replace the cat section (gems) on the driveway? Local garage wants 200 quid...I assume the tricky bit is going to be supporting the gearbox and then pulling off the x member. I trust my impact wrench to get the manifold nuts off...spare studs on standby, and new lambda sensors
Until recently, as long as the battery back up did not bother me I left well alone... Now the bbus ( on my Defender) is disturbing my alarm system, so I either need to disconnect permanently, or replace. But the part is completely out of stock... Any bright ideas? Not sure if the p38 one is exactly the same, but probably the p38 one needs replacing too
I have not done this for decades and not on a P38, but what do i need to be able to do some brake lines? a flaring tool (which flare type do we need to use?), some cunifer (size?) some ends (thread/size?) a pipe bending spring one of those proper pipe bender things maybe ? All links/ recommendations welcome... thanks in advance
Rob
While stripping the hoses from my 4.6, a couple of the metal tubes came away with the hoses attached - one from the top of the rocker cover, and another from the throttle body. The tubes slide back into their respective holes and fit well, but presumably were set with some kind of paste/ sealant. Anyone care to recommend/ suggest what i could use to lock the tubes back in place? Epoxy?
I dont do many miles, never use lpg and it causes a coolant leak, so I plan to decommission it.looks as if I need to drain half the coolant, remove the plenum and then the hoses that were drilled into the inlet manifold. Then I need to blank off 8 holes in the inlet manifold and 1 in the plenum?
I assume theres no need to remove the actual manifold itself. I can disconnect the ECU easily enough, and then examine how it was spliced into the engine ecu.... I may leave the tank in place for now, but if so, how should I seal it off (it's empty). Any other key jobs?
Yesterday I went for my first drive after replacing the hose on my Cruise Control. It still doesnt work.... I have also put a battery on the motor as a test, the Diaphragm pulls in, no problem...Before I dig out rave and start going through the diagnostic waterfall, what is the next most obvious probem to check?
The switches In my interior lights don't work, and I was wondering if anyone has worked out the correct replacement from RS or wherever... They're the little square metal latched variety with the trim-coloured button on top...3 in the main overhead light...
Nearly a year since i've owned this one and I haven't gone near the LPG system in all that time. Anyway, the coolant hoses for the Bigas unit that are T'd into the regular hoses looked a bit manky, so i replaced them today with some fresh coolant hose. In the course of bleeding the coolant system and running the engine at revs then i noticed that the LPG Unit started running at high revs ( i had never heard it do anything before) even with the LPG switched off at the dash... I assume that it has some kind of circulation pump in there that was probably full of air, hence the noise it was making. Is there something special I need to do to bleed the circulation system when LPG is fitted? Or it will eventually displace the air when running at full temp and pressure?
I'm chasing an "RHF air gap too large" fault, but working on the LH sensor because nano shows that that is the wheel that starts moving later than the others. To be sure that I knew which wheel nano was reporting for sure, I struck on the idea of disconnecting the LH sensor to prove that it was that wheel triggering the fault. Unfortunately i just got the error "e2" straight after. I reconnected the sensor, but now it doesn't respond at all (well, not sure it was responding before tbh), reports e2 or occasionally "e1"...and the faults message is back to RHF air gap too large
Any clues?
Just bleeding the brakes on my "new" P38, and I spent half an hour cutting away the bulkhead insulation around the rear booster bleed screw so that I could a. see it and b. get a pipe on it. Maybe I am missing a trick, but i don't see how it's possible to do the full brake bleed without removing the insulation... which means that neither of my P38s were ever properly bled before I got to them... thoughts?
can't remember if this is allowed- if not please delete... for your entertainment...one of my 50ths up for sale ...I can't justify running/ maintaining 2 while holding down a full time job : o)
https://collectingcars.com/for-sale/1998-range-rover-p38-4-6-vogue-50th-anniversary
Only a grand so far !!
I'm a bit stumped... Book error came up on RR no 2, and as I had a couple of spare 2nd hand blend motors, which tested fine I thought I'd open her up on the RHS and replace both motors. Distribution flaps were a bit tight and i loosened them off with the self tapper in the middle. After a bit of swapping ( i have two hevac's, repinned the connector, swapped motors over) I have a Distribution motor that powers up on ignition II and seemingly a functioning LH and RH blend motor and i can watch the blend %age (on Nano) go up and down all day long - although not the distribution motor. But...i keep getting one error (ie only one at a time) in Faults...it is variously RH blend motor open circuit, RH blend potentiometer circuit has failed, RH blower is open circuit. I would merrily go and buy some new blend motors if i believed that was the error, but it would be great if Nano could make up its mind. it might even make sense if it said that it was the distribution motor...
Has anyone developed any relevant expertise in the interpretation of the nano?
I have a spare EAS unit, and last weekend i did a refurb of the block and the compressor. I know that the driver pack cannot be repaired as such, but is there a way to bench test it ?
I went to Germany this week and left the car at High, and disconnected the battery. I came back, reconnected, as I've done many times. Started her up no problem, and went to run an errand...but...no response when i went to lower the ride height. Being stuck at high is not the worst thing in the world, but i need to use it on the road tomorrow, so looking for a fix. The system has been fine for 5 years, but recently in the last few months it wd sometimes sag at the Rear RH corner when i left her parked. I'm convinced it was the system doing the deflating and not a leak... i could be shopping for 5 mins and would come back and it had gone down... other times it would just sit at standard, and it would sit at high all day long. But now as i say it wont adjust from High.... Well, I say wont, but i can plug nano in and make the car go up and down, all the sensor bit counts adjust dynamically. Fuses are ok, and switches test ok on the nano - except the raise/ lower one - which would be a red flag, but i took the switch of my other P38 and nano reads the same - no response to the ride height switch.... I'm suspecting the EAS ECU, which I suppose is easy enough for me to try... but, does anyone have any alternative theories?
Is there such a thing as a bench test for an air bag? I have an old air bag that i want to test... short of fitting it to one of my fleet is there a way to do a leak test on one? Obviously a bike inner tube you can just hang up on a hook and see if it goes down...not sure how that translates to an air bag though... This may turn into a comedy thread of course...let's see
On my new (to me) P38 the barrel of the drivers door lock started spinning round and round, and then when I finally managed to persuade the key to come out the barrel slid almost all the way back into the door just by touch. I have been fortunate enough in the past not to have to familiarise myself with door anatomy... so, what will have failed? is it just a circlip fallen off inside? PO supplied a RHF door lock in a box of parts, so I suspect the lock was replaced but something was forgotten/ not fitted properly.
Some helpful person badly cracked the abs on my rear bumper...As far as I can see this part code is OOS everywhere... Unless someone knows of a specialist who may have one. This one has less cut-outs than the alternative, which seems to be freely available....or does anyone know who actually makes/ made them? I only really need the abs, so cd try a breaker, but the outers are messy to remove without further damage
Sorry to be lazy, but i'm sure someone has the answer... on P38 no2 the passenger lock locks shut on the key fob, but does not open.... is that likely to be a jammed rod? seems odd for the motor to work one way and not the other... It just helps before pulling the door card off so that I can line up the necessary spares...
Hi Gents, I just bought myself another P38...slightly better version of the 50th I already have : o) It comes with an LPG install and I'm wondering if it is worth retaining, or just strip it off... Is it complicated to remove?
As you can see I know nothing about LPG...so I'm all ears