The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
24 posts

Hi everyone,
Eventually got round to having time to play and changed out crankshaft sensor while I was doing off side ball joints and track rod.
Now all good doesn’t miss a beat thanks for the advice Gilbertd.

I will do , toolbox and wire in car waiting, cheers

Hi Chris,
Thanks for the reply.
I will try pump flow in the morning I had already replaced leak off pipes and replaced all filters before I had the problem with her stopping and had probably done about 800 miles with new filters before she stopped on me.
Everything looks dry with no leaks.
Cheers Steve

Hi Gilbertd
Yes I do believe the diesel has a crank sensor I will look in the morning to make sure but thanks for you quick reply
Cheers Steve

Hi All
Not been on for a while hope you are all ok.
My problem,
I was driving along the A19 at about 70mph, the engine suddenly seamed to surge and rev-up then it stopped. I had not move accelerator. I coasted to the side and luckily there was a parking bay so in I went.
I had nanocom in car so I plugged in and no faults other than the over fuel pressure thing you get when it’s been chipped which is always there even when it’s running correctly but she would not start. So green flag home 100 miles.
When I got home and she was off the truck she started first time and ran for about 5 mins then stopped and again would not start until about 30 mins later.
New filters and oil change and she will run sometimes for an hour but sometimes only 5 mins then stops but always starts again after about 30 mins.
Hope someone can give me any idea what to try next as don’t trust her anymore and I should.
Cheers Steve.

just to let you all know all O-rings and diaphragm replaced and she now goes up and down as she should.
totally empty system to full height 2 minutes never been so quick.
cheers Steve

thanks everyone for your reply's.
I have taken off the valve block and I am glad to say that I found the diaphragm and it was split.
new one ordered with full set of O-ring seals so total rebuild then hopefully it will all work fine again.
many thanks
cheers Steve

hi everyone
I've not been on for a while as she has been running well but today gone down to bump stops got her home already had new stuff for compressor. (cylinder and seals), so all fitted but she still wont rise.
my question is how much pressure should come out of compressor. If I remove pipe I can put my finger over connection when its running but it does blow my finger off fitting.
when I reconnect the pipe and take of the pipe to the air dryer there is very little air coming out (I can put my finger over it no problem and hold it there and no pressure build up ).
is it the compressor or is it the valve block. I have put valves on lines to air bags and pumped up, it has lifted and stayed up so no problem with bags or lines to them.
hope someone can help
cheers tiv68

its running perfect.
I took out the crank sensor and it was scored and bent so I removed the bottom plate in front of gear box and at least half the prongs on the fly wheel were bent, about 30 mins of straightening and adjusting and sensor fitted off old engine she started and revved as happy as you like.
I have my baby back on the road.
cheers tiv68

hi yes,
it just does not want to rev no matter how you press the throttle (really slow or fast ).
cheers tiv68

hi thanks for reply.
yes as far as I can see I have connected everything. ive had it connected to my nanocom and it came up with cam sensor so I swapped it for the one off the old engine.
I also changed plenum chamber etc to see if that made any difference but it was just the same.
still open to any ideas. help..
cheers tiv68

hi every body,
I have managed to change engine thanks for all the info. the problem I have now is that she starts fine and ticks over but wont rev at all. as soon as you touch the throttle she want to die let go of throttle and she goes back to the perfect idle. does anyone have any ideas please.
cheers tiv68

thanks for all the replies I will try again today. glad you told me I had to leave T C in the bell housing as my new engine still has it connected and would of tried to take out with it on.
cheers tiv68

hi everybody, my trusty gems overheated the other week big time pressurised and blow a hose and as I have a spare engine I thought I would just drop it in. my only problem is I can not get to the bell housing/engine bolts ( the top ones ), I have managed to remove 3 of the bottom ones from underneath the car I cant even see the rest. my question is how do I remove them.
somebody out there must know what to remove to get to them. do I have to do it from the top if so what do I remove to get to them?
hope someone can give me a bit of advise as I love my p38 and want her back on the road asap.
cheers tiv68

hi , just a quick one to thank everyone for there help. got home from working away and found the red and pink wire under dripping heater O-rings was all corroded, now cleaned and soldered and obd connection works fine thanks for the info Marty. now to go and have a look at my door handle.
cheers steve

hi everyone, just to say I eventually got home from working away and seals replaced, I could not get passed air con duct so cut it out then replaced. while I was in there I looked at wiring and just as Marty said the pink and red wire connection was all corroded, so cut back and soldered in a new piece of wire and hey presto my nanocom now connects.
thanks very much for all the info.
cheers steve

Hi Marty, ive had the same problem all winter with water on drivers floor mat and coming down windscreen pillar tried allsorts to fix it but in the end I took the trim off both door pillars outside and trim off top of screen and sealed screen to car with (geocel trade mate roofers seal). it even seals when its raining. I did it a month ago and not had a leak since I did it (it no longer drips on my knee ) result..i thought it was roof but it was windscreen seal. hope that helps.. cheers Steve

thanks for that Marty, I will definitely be having a good look at the soggy wires.
cheers Steve

Hi Marty, thanks for reply ive had her for nearly 3 years and never noticed it before and I keep tools for work in her so I think I would of. also drivers door has stopped opening on button I have to use key but all others open. thanks again Steve.

hi Steve here again,
I have just been out to my babe and opened tailgate while she was locked, pressed button and tailgate opened and alarm went off then realised I had not pressed fob to unlock car as all doors were still locked..
why would tailgate open when rest of car is locked????
cheers Steve