rangerovers.pub
The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse.
Member
offline
19 posts
Feb 29 2016
14 March 2018 - 07:39

hi
just to let you all know all O-rings and diaphragm replaced and she now goes up and down as she should.
totally empty system to full height 2 minutes never been so quick.
cheers Steve

11 March 2018 - 22:08

hi everyone
I've not been on for a while as she has been running well but today gone down to bump stops got her home already had new stuff for compressor. (cylinder and seals), so all fitted but she still wont rise.
my question is how much pressure should come out of compressor. If I remove pipe I can put my finger over connection when its running but it does blow my finger off fitting.
when I reconnect the pipe and take of the pipe to the air dryer there is very little air coming out (I can put my finger over it no problem and hold it there and no pressure build up ).
is it the compressor or is it the valve block. I have put valves on lines to air bags and pumped up, it has lifted and stayed up so no problem with bags or lines to them.
hope someone can help
cheers tiv68

13 March 2018 - 08:05

hi
thanks everyone for your reply's.
I have taken off the valve block and I am glad to say that I found the diaphragm and it was split.
new one ordered with full set of O-ring seals so total rebuild then hopefully it will all work fine again.
many thanks
cheers Steve

09 March 2016 - 23:51

hi tiv68 here
I'm new to this forum, but have been helped before by Gilbertd on another one with my lpg (which is now not working again but that for another day).
I was on the other forum for help with my obd connection and Gilbertd gave me links to rave (which I now have) for wiring diagrams.
I have purchased a nanacom for my p38 1998 4.0l gems. it will connect to eas and air bags but nothing else just says connection error to ecu..
i was told that obd connector could be corroded looked and wire/connector 7 was corroded to the point it came away from socket, so i purchased a new wired socket and soldered it in place, but when i stripped wire 7 back it was black on the copper , i soldered it any way but it still wont connect,
my question is can put a jump wire in from 7 on obd socket to becm. on wiring diagrams i can find on rave it says it goes to pin 8 on becm and to brake abs i think, (i could be totally wrong). where is pin 8 on becm as there are many plugs with more than 8 wires i know they are all different colours but i need help.
spanners and welding no problem but wires!!!!!!! and i don't want to damage anything connecting it wrong.
any help would be greatfuly received.
regards Steve

11 March 2016 - 08:20

hi everyone
thanks for all the information.
I looked for the connector last night and found it. its so easy when you know where to look and what to look for. I am working away at the moment so wont get chance to play until weekend. it has been very damp and is going green in places, what is the best way to clean the connectors?
also while I was looking I saw the dreaded antifreeze trail so the O-rings must of gone too but will post in oily bits about that.
many thanks again
cheers Steve

11 March 2016 - 23:12

hi Steve here again,
I have just been out to my babe and opened tailgate while she was locked, pressed button and tailgate opened and alarm went off then realised I had not pressed fob to unlock car as all doors were still locked..
why would tailgate open when rest of car is locked????
cheers Steve

11 March 2016 - 23:55

Hi Marty, thanks for reply ive had her for nearly 3 years and never noticed it before and I keep tools for work in her so I think I would of. also drivers door has stopped opening on button I have to use key but all others open. thanks again Steve.

30 March 2016 - 09:21

hi , just a quick one to thank everyone for there help. got home from working away and found the red and pink wire under dripping heater O-rings was all corroded, now cleaned and soldered and obd connection works fine thanks for the info Marty. now to go and have a look at my door handle.
cheers steve

02 May 2017 - 18:42

hi everybody, my trusty gems overheated the other week big time pressurised and blow a hose and as I have a spare engine I thought I would just drop it in. my only problem is I can not get to the bell housing/engine bolts ( the top ones ), I have managed to remove 3 of the bottom ones from underneath the car I cant even see the rest. my question is how do I remove them.
somebody out there must know what to remove to get to them. do I have to do it from the top if so what do I remove to get to them?
hope someone can give me a bit of advise as I love my p38 and want her back on the road asap.
cheers tiv68

03 May 2017 - 08:11

thanks for all the replies I will try again today. glad you told me I had to leave T C in the bell housing as my new engine still has it connected and would of tried to take out with it on.
cheers tiv68

11 May 2017 - 19:41

hi every body,
I have managed to change engine thanks for all the info. the problem I have now is that she starts fine and ticks over but wont rev at all. as soon as you touch the throttle she want to die let go of throttle and she goes back to the perfect idle. does anyone have any ideas please.
cheers tiv68

12 May 2017 - 07:54

hi thanks for reply.
yes as far as I can see I have connected everything. ive had it connected to my nanocom and it came up with cam sensor so I swapped it for the one off the old engine.
I also changed plenum chamber etc to see if that made any difference but it was just the same.
still open to any ideas. help..
cheers tiv68

12 May 2017 - 08:18

hi yes,
it just does not want to rev no matter how you press the throttle (really slow or fast ).
cheers tiv68

12 May 2017 - 22:40

its running perfect.
I took out the crank sensor and it was scored and bent so I removed the bottom plate in front of gear box and at least half the prongs on the fly wheel were bent, about 30 mins of straightening and adjusting and sensor fitted off old engine she started and revved as happy as you like.
I have my baby back on the road.
cheers tiv68

11 March 2016 - 08:26

hi everyone
please could someone tell me how easy it is to change O-rings on heater matrix and what do you have to remove to get too it. also I think one of my blender motors has gone I think.
cheers Steve.

11 March 2016 - 23:04

too start with gilbertd made it sound easy, but anyway I have ordered a 16" pz2 so will give it a go at the same time (sorry same weekend) as I try to do my obd connection (thanks for info Martyuk ). she has got air con so I suppose ill just have play nicely.
thanks to every one for your help
cheers Steve

12 March 2016 - 00:12

thanks for that Marty, I will definitely be having a good look at the soggy wires.
cheers Steve

14 March 2016 - 00:04

Hi Marty, ive had the same problem all winter with water on drivers floor mat and coming down windscreen pillar tried allsorts to fix it but in the end I took the trim off both door pillars outside and trim off top of screen and sealed screen to car with (geocel trade mate roofers seal). it even seals when its raining. I did it a month ago and not had a leak since I did it (it no longer drips on my knee ) result..i thought it was roof but it was windscreen seal. hope that helps.. cheers Steve

30 March 2016 - 09:03

hi everyone, just to say I eventually got home from working away and seals replaced, I could not get passed air con duct so cut it out then replaced. while I was in there I looked at wiring and just as Marty said the pink and red wire connection was all corroded, so cut back and soldered in a new piece of wire and hey presto my nanocom now connects.
thanks very much for all the info.
cheers steve