The newer ones are terrible at least with a p38 most of their faults have been discussed and ironed out on various platforms. The one I use the most has a 4.6 on gas . My friend runs the local garage and was having a go at me for drifting back to p38s . After a particularly snowy winter he asked if he could run my autobiography as he is also a retained fireman. It was a win win situation as he motd and serviced it.
Marshall8hp I wasn't allowed to play today as 32 wedding anniversary 🙄 but definitely tomorrow as Saturday snow and I want to see what vogue like in snow
That depends entirely on what tyres you've got on it. Mine had Goodyear Wranglers and they were absolute crap on snow, TC kicking in every time I went to pull away, ABS clunking away no matter how gentle I was on the brakes and it wouldn't go round corners. That was 3 years ago just before I was driving it Latvia for new year and fitted a set of Vredestein Quatrac 5 on it. They are an All Season tyre but with a snow type tread pattern on the inside edge. I could feel the difference in the wet as soon as they went on and on snow in Estonia they were brilliant. They've now done 60,000 miles and are down to 3mm of tread but in the snow last weekend, even flooring the throttle didn't get the TC to kick in, brakes stopped it and it went where I pointed it. If it wasn't for lockdown I'd be fitting another set for another trip as many countries insist on a 3 peaks marking and a minimum of 4mm of tread in winter.
I fitted a set of Michelin Cross Climate + tyres to mine in the summer and am impressed with them. We had snow recently and it never batted an eyelid at it (expected nothing less tbh as it did fine on that the year before on worn Continentals too), the road noise is reduced, handling is great and it doesn't tram line.
Set of 4 was just under £600 including fitting IIRC.
David.
Way to go on 32 years Symes!
Cheers Harv yep 32 happy years my wife likes the collection of vehicles and she offers advice on aspects like the convertible pick up P38 I'm doing
Anything like this one? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-rover-P38-autobiography-convertible-/164516873201
No idea if it sold or just ended.
No I got idea from a 1931 ford A . when weather is bit better I'll resume --- basically pick up with detachable roof like series landys Only issues weather /time
That convertable is bit ugly especially that wood at rear
Yeah well, it's in Monaco so it's gone for the Riva look.
The idea of convertable range rover been in my head but for me I need a work horse --- you know something to carry parts / tools etc and my brother said pick up would be great --- he right so got a cheap P38 4.6 HSE with shot gems as base ---- at 1st wife suggested putting consul on chassis 🤣
Broke it, fixed it.. still scratching my head...
I've been having cold start problems which I believe are related to fuel pressure so today I finally broke out my Fuel Pressure gauge and tried to attach it to the valve on the back of the engine. It turns out that my gauge has all the attachments except the correct one (although it might just be that the centre pin on the test valve is seized) so I wasn't able to hook it up.
Rather frustrated I tried starting her up, and after a couple of attempts (Crank, nothing, start fuel pump with nano, wait till it cuts out, crank, nothing, fuel pump, crank) she started up and shot straight to 2400 rpm.
I started her a couple more times but after she hit 3500rpm with 0 throttle I decided to have a think. Yep, in thrashing around trying to hook up the fuel pressure gauge I'd dislodged the Cruise Control pipe from its bracket and pulled the CC throttle tight, about 1/2" off the stop.
Doh.
Now I need a way to test fuel pressure.
I would say it's filter rather than pressure as it doesn't stall/lumpy running or even temp sensor ---- if fuel spurts out of the shreader valve when pressed then can't be pressure . Especially as started and ran at 2500rpm
It's weird, once it's started it runs fine and restarts instantly when hot. But you have to run the fuel pump a few times before it'll fire on a cold start. A filter can't hurt, I guess. I suspect it's the return valve (assuming there is such a thing in the fuel module) so a fuel tank drop/fuel pump may be in my future. I can't smell any leaks.
I tried pressing the schraeder valve but the pin wouldn't budge. I suspect that might be why my adaptor wouldn't screw on. It seemed to grip the thread and then popped off. Of course, it's in a stupid location so I can't see what is actually going on :/
Is there actually a filter on the Thor P38? There isn't one on the Disco 2 (though ECP do list one) and I was under the impression that the Thor doesn't feature a return either, at least on the Disco 2 it doesn't?
No, GEMS has a filter and a return with a pressure regulator on the fuel rail, Thor doesn't other than in the fuel pump assembly itself and supplies fuel at a set constant pressure.
Mmmm so reluctant to start could be pump related then like it's not putting enough pressure thru
It's an odd one as if the pressure was down or if there was a restriction, it wouldn't run normally once started.
Morat - have you got a lead for your lpg system? If so can you actually see any fuel timings when your cranking? Or alternatively can you force it to start on gas? Thinking you could rule out crank sensor if you can see timings or start on gas.
Alternative way to rule that out would be to verify you have sparks, if you haven't already done so (when the problem is present).
Morat I had a Dakota that acted like that. The problem was a bad check valve in the fuel pump. It’s there to hold pressure for your next start. If it leaks a bit, the pressure won’t be there and you need to cycle the key a couple of times to run the pump for a few extra seconds. Maybe not the same issue but maybe?
BrianH wrote:
Morat - have you got a lead for your lpg system? If so can you actually see any fuel timings when your cranking? Or alternatively can you force it to start on gas? Thinking you could rule out crank sensor if you can see timings or start on gas.
Alternative way to rule that out would be to verify you have sparks, if you haven't already done so (when the problem is present).
Sadly no lead and I don't know the trick for forcing a BRC to start on gas. I'll put some flashing spark plug testers on and verify spark but the fun thing is that it fires, sputters and dies most of the time, then you have to pump up the fuel. Sometimes it'll fire on the second attempt, sometimes 3rd or 4th. I can hear the fuel pump relay cutting out after about 17s (just count thousands in my head). Does the fuel pump cut out when correct pressure is achieved or is it just on a timer? Because it's remarkably consistent.
Another thing I don't know is whether the fuel pump relay is meant to kick in at posn1/2 on the key. Looking at the nano, the fuel pump only seems to start running on crank which is quite a bold strategy compared with my other cars which run the pump at position2 on the key whether you crank or not.
Of course, just to be special, it will fire right up from cold maybe 1 time in 10.
As you can imagine I'm not massively excited at the prospect of swapping the fuel pump to get a new check valve but it might end up being the correct option. The other end of the system could also be at fault if there's a leaking injector but I guess that's just as annoying to check as the injector rail is tucked under the manifold. The knackered Schraeder valve is just another annoyance.