You definitely beat me. Just went to the paintshop to collect mine to find it being masked up ready to go in the paint booth so not ready to collect then. Blind panic set in as I'd planned on getting it all back together tonight and tomorrow. I'm out all day on Sunday, back at work Monday and Tuesday, at a conference Wednesday and Thursday and then have a trailer booked on Friday which I need to tow to France! It will be going in the booth first thing in the morning so will be ready to collect at midday as long as the weather forecast is right and it stays dry. As preparation is 90% of the job, they've done a good job on it though.

Gilbertd wrote:

As preparation is 90% of the job, they've done a good job on it though.

Should look good when it's finished.

I keep thinking about getting the roof done on mine as it's sun damaged (the rest has had a quality re-spray at some point - but they obviously couldn't reach up there) but figure that only people who ever see it are bus passengers and wagon drivers, so no rush.

The roof on mine has always given the truck drivers and bus passengers something to look at. When it was decommissioned and had all the police stuff taken off they filled the 5 or 6 holes in the roof where the radio aerials and light bars had been and then got what appears to be a 4" paintbrush loaded with a random white paint and slopped a dollop of paint over each hole. It's past was there for all to see.

I quite like the snow-camo look. Maybe you should keep it like that?

The fact that they put these things in a nice box makes them almost worth the £111.36. Oh for the days you just knocked these up from a coil of HT cable...

Orangebean wrote:

I quite like the snow-camo look. Maybe you should keep it like that?

Not a bad idea actually, I could have asked him to just lacquer it as it was. However, he didn't and I picked it up at 12, fitted the front indicators, rear numberplate and lights and mirrors and drove it home looking like this

Not a bad finish considering it still needs a polish

Spent the day refitting everything and it's all back together except for the big ex-plod mudflaps. I had to cut the heads off the self tappers that held them on so bought some Tec screws with integral washers but the ones I bought are too fat so I'll need to get some the next size down.

Then wash the wheels.......

It's looking good. I think you need to reblacken the bumper though!
Still got that TR6 then? Market's a bit low at the moment so probably best to keep it till Spring when there's usually a blip. They always leak round the window seals, even with the factory hard top, so might be an idea to stick a cover on it.

Yup, probably the worse time of year to try to sell anything like that in the UK so the TR6 is going to France on Friday along with a 1969 Triumph Bonneville that is currently making access to the utility room a bit awkward (although Dina considers it as quite an attractive bit of modern art). The E Type I took down there in August just before the run to Latvia has sold though. It was advertised throughout Europe and we expected it to sell to someone in Monaco, Germany, Switzerland, France or Italy like most of the others. But it's been bought by a man who lives less than 2 miles from me so I've got to bring it back. The original idea was that there probably wasn't enough in the TR6 to make taking it down worthwhile but as I would be going down with an empty trailer on the back, I may as well take it.

The front bumper, along with the wheels and everything else on the car that hasn't been painted (including a lot of the interior), is covered in grey dust from the rubbing down before it was masked and painted. All it needs is the dust washing off and the back bumper blacking too as I never did that before.

Richard, You sure that's your car, looks good mate, thought you might have gone the whole hog and had orange stripes and flashing lights,, 😁

No, I couldn't find a replacement dayglo orange front grille with two big square blue lights in it to make it look like it did originally so decided to keep it plain old C603 Chawton White.

V Happy today.
It's leaking oil like the Exxon Valdiz from what looks like HG on RHS, Got a low revs missfire on #5 (both fuels but higher count on petrol)and the 3 amigos on braking.
Haven't fitted new HT leads yet 'cos can't even see the coil pack, let alone get to it without taking the top inlet off.
Oh yes, the HEVAC display is now dark as well as half of the digit missing.
New accumulator ordered. Got half way through a brake bleed before deciding it pointless. HTH are you supposed to get at the back brake pump bleed nipple, with it nicely tucked into the sound deadening padding?
Joy of new ownership now worn off. Am now back in love with my '95

Ahh the long steady slog from someone else's Good Riddance to your New Best Friend :)
I'm sure you'll get there, you've got all winter to swear at it!

You sure it's leaking from the HG and not the rocker cover? HG doesn't have any appreciable oilways running through it. No doubt someone a little more dexterous will tell you how to get to the ignition coils, probably requires fingers like ET with the grip of Mole grips......

I'm hoping it's rocker cover, no actually more than hoping. I'm going to sacrifice the missus cat to appease the Rover gods.
Took a pic of the oily mess that is engine compartment today. It's fuzzy 'cos blurred by tears:

The "those studs holding the banana's on don't look original" thingy

While you're in there, sort out the plumbing for the LPG reducer and put it in series with the heater. Apart from the slow warm up and/or feeble output from the heater at idle on a cold day, you'll get rid of two places for air locks to sit (shouldn't the hoses into the heater be straight rather than curved up like that?). Never having pulled a Thor apart, I can't tell you if the studs are original or not but they do look a little long. I can't see land Rover wasting that amount of metal.......

Have to say - since finding my blocked up thermostat heater return, my heater is ferocious at idle, and we left it in parallel when we replaced the entire sodding set of hoses. My vapourisor looked far too restrictive to put in series - and having cracked an Audi core open and seen the magic inside, I'm happier with it paralleled.

The studs aren't original, should be long bolts.

Getting at the coil packs is easy - you just need to find someone else to do it. If you're feeling sympathetic towards them, you'll pick someone with tiny hands. Otherwise, sitting on top of the engine and proceeding to swear all day long is my preferred method.

Looks like sitting on top of the engine is the way ahead then. I'm short of an apprentice to do all the crap work. Found this equally galling trying to bleed brakes single handed today. You just can't do it- even with a pro vacuum bleeder.
Might just pop the bunch of bananas to one side and change rocker cover gaskets, as well as giving access to coil pack Bet that's not as easy to do as it is to say!

Ah if you're doing the gaskets too, just do it all at once - it'll be a LOT easier with that lot out of the way. You do

I did mine and one of them is leaking again -_- Didn't need RTV when I did them on my GEMS, so I figured I wouldn't need to on this either... when I come to fix it (again), I'll be sealing them up!

Yep- even those rubber gaskets benefit from a quick spray of Hylomar. Sticks them in place which makes it a lot easier to not displace them when fitting.
I was contemplating sticking my scaffold tower either side of car and some boards across the engine to lie in comfort when trying to reach in to the coil packs...

Mark for the coilpackbolts (8mm) it is best to use a ¼" ratchet set, there are two bolts (1 on each side of the packs) down in the lower inletmanifold (which you just loosen them a few turns) and 2 others to take out from top of the coils mounted in the bananas. This way you can lean the pack a bit backwards to slide the bananas from underneath. Remove the 4 studs and the 2 bolts front and rear in the middle of the bananas, lift the plenum about 1 cm to get free of the dowels front and rear.