Changed the pollen filters. yay!

Hi Morat. (or any one that can help in southern ontario :-( ...
could you please call me ANYTIME at 647 529 9276 im in bolton end of the 427 ,stuck with my 2001 P38 need advice and my be use of your NanoCom device to reset the immobiliser thanks Jonathan 647 529 9276

Not sure if there is anyone on here in Ontario, but what is the exact probllem and it may be possible to walk you through what you need to do.

He sent me a PM with the details, maybe there's a York in Ontario?
anyway:

installed yesterday a new 12V battery. car started geat did not use the FOB ,as the car is parked in doors
UNTIL THIS MORNING
my 2001 P38 FOB is not recognised by the car.
will not open doors.
when opened with kay the alarm goes off and the car will not start

disconnected the battery overnight
used the 1515 code
Range rover in Brampton( ontario) could not help..stated the car is too old :-(

If he's installed a new battery, the fob will have lost sync which is why it doesn't work. If he tried to open the door within 30 minutes of connecting the battery, it will have been showing keycode lockout so won't do anything or accept the EKA

I took my father out for cofee in the Duchess today. I was able to use access mode with confidence for the first time in ages :)

Access mode worked great for my Mom-in-law. Unfortunately she’s beyond that now.

Considering taking the LINLEY to its first public showing next weekend. All depends on the weather… vehicle has never been in the rain since its restoration…

British by the Sea, Harkness State Park in Waterford, CT.

Chance to see a unicorn.

it's good to sit in the rover and think it's nearly 30yrs old, it doesn't feel that it's that old. hope you do well at the car show.

Today I found out what a pheasant at 70mph does when it hits your headlight. It could have been worse though, it completely avoided the grille and bonnet although it took a fair amount of screenwash to get the remains off the windscreen.....

It even took both bulbs out!!!

Fifty years ago I was in hospital after an accident. The young chap in the opposite bed had been riding his motorbike when a pheasant crossed his path & hit him full in the face. His whole face was swollen beyond belief. He was lucky not to have died.

Happens more than you know...I was driving in my Granada 2.8 GL estate (company car circa1985) on the A7 from Carlisle to Edinburgh when a pheasant collided with my offside headlamp area .When I got to my destination a passer-by pointed out I had a dead pheasant stuck inside my headlamp housing..I let the local Ford dealership extract it and replace the unit and washing the blood of the front. At least it wasnt a deer... again !

My dashcam managed to catch it just before impact. 3 frames later (3/30th of a second) there's bits of glass flying out......

As my car is still blind in one eye and had agreed to take a mate to Stansted airport in the early hours of this morning, I decided I'd use the red 4.0SE instead. It hasn't done much more than the odd 60 mile round trip so checked it over and then thought it might be worth having a look at the HEVAC distribution motor. The book had been on for a while and the fault was showing as distribution blend motor stalled. I drove it a few days ago when the weather was hot and the AC was working well, the blowers were ramping up to full speed to try to cool the interior but all the air was coming out of the windscreen vent, none from the floor or face vents. So had the instrument cluster out to get to it. The usual cause of a stalled motor is stiff shafts and the distribution motor drives 3 instead of just one like the other two, so putting more load on the motor. A squirt of silicone oil is usually enough to get them moving freely but they need to be aligned.

As this is more pertinent to Max's thread https://rangerovers.pub/topic/3864-no-blower-air-to-windscreen, I've put the finer points in there.....

Pheasants are a pain in the headlights :( I worked over twenty years for an estate that shot pheasants so I've hit a few. The scariest one didn't cause any damage but it was a direct hit on the windscreen in front of my face. It detonated and I couldn't see a thing at 50 mph. Eek.

Changed the engine temperature sensor. Drove to Stansted to pick up a mate last night and noticed my temperature gauge seemed to be showing fractionally higher than normal. Rather than sit at 12 o'clock, mine has always sat at about 1 minute past and it seemed like it was at 2 minutes past. When I stopped I plugged in the Nanocom to see what it was running at to be told 51C.....

Errm, that isn't right. Looked at the stored faults and saw an interesting selection, like coolant temperature too low, and coolant temperature too low for closed loop fuelling. Now as my car has a single point LPG system that is almost totally independent of the petrol system (the only thing it uses is the throttle position sensor), those faults won't cause a problem with running. But I'd rather do something as I do very occasionally run on petrol and it would be nice to be able to see what temperature it is running at.

On the GEMS there's two temperature sensors, one for the gauge and one for the ECU. The one for the gauge is either an AMR5929 green top which is NLA or on earlier cars, one with a single wire connector and a second one for the ECU which has a black or brown top and feeds the ECU. A few years ago, someone on the dark side suggested that this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bosch-0280130026-Temperature-Sensor/dp/B001CO2VU0 was a replacement for the green top one so I bought one. Only to find that it isn't, the thread is wrong so it won't screw into the manifold, so I bunged it on the shelf in the garage and left it there.

This morning, after the car had stood overnight, I checked the coolant temperature according to Nano and it showed 11C, yet infra-red thermometer showed the engine to be at 18C. Found the Bosch one and plugged that in with it just dangling on the wires and the Nano showed 17C. Infra-red thermometer showed it to be 17C in my garage so that made sense. Swapped them and can confirm that the Bosch one is a direct swap for ETC8496, the one that drives the ECU. The thread is correct, the connector is correct and the readings it gives are correct (confirmed by looking at coolant temperature on the Nano and comparing it with what the infra-red thermometer was showing). Took the car for a run and it was showing the normal 85-89C running temperature and when at 89C, the gauge was reading what I saw last night.