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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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Less calorific value in E85 so it will do (slightly) less mpg, I would have thought. High ethanol content will also result in cooler running maybe.
Dragsters and old racing bikes ran on high methanol mixes which would have cooled the heads more than ethanol.
A big saving. though. I don't gloat over running a diesel anymore. I used to run it on a veg oil mix but the price of (virgin) veg oil has gone thro' the roof.

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It does, Nigel has found he does a couple of miles to the gallon less than on petrol but with the price difference it's still far cheaper. With LPG, and most other fuels in France, being the most expensive in Europe, it'll be even cheaper for me to run on it over there and LPG everywhere else.

As for running on veg oil, I noticed when the petrol and diesel shortage was happening a few weeks ago, my local Tesco had empty shelves where they would normally have the 3L containers of cooking oil.

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I'm just taking advantage while I can of E85 at 69c/L as I am sure that over the years the price will slowly but surely creep up.

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Picked up another discovery 1 300tdi today BUT this one got sunroofs (no leaks)and bars & auto --- got it cheap due to London charge£18 per day FFS Comes with 2inch lift kit fitted & uprated gearbox(Alston's) This week I'll fit leather interior then put in autotrader ps vogue still being the shiny blue beauty --- left 2weeks still suspension stayed up and 1st start 👍

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Hi fellas been away long got much work elsewhere and little time, but I have managed to get the dash in, console and switches/buttons, radio and hevac and lo and behold most of it works! Still got to take some photos but ... getting there.
Got a couple questions though:

  • switches: most if the "green" small bulbs are gone, I was horrified to find out they cost over 8gbp apiece! My my ... any alternatives you have tried?
  • instrument cluster. I've fitted the cluster to a new dash (mine was warped) and the cluster fits ... funny, like too far back which means too much "inside" its place. This leaves gaps especially on the sides, which once you fit the surround (the one with the fuel cap opener) it looks awful. Tried fitting another couple times just to make sure I did not bend anything out of place, but still ... all 4 screws tight without issues. What has gone wrong?

All going well, I am left with this "problem" above so I can fit the steering wheel and steering column covers, a few odds and ends and get it out of the garage, insurance, MOT and then to sort out the rest, but at least to become mobile...

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Changed radiator (gravity) thermostat (gates) and alternator (denso) gets to temperature and maintains it. Runs much smoother very happy with her.

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I have a hatch under the carpet in the rear to get at the intank fuel pump.
It is or was just a metal flap that you bend up to get at the pump and then taped down with duct tape the rest of the time.

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Not very satisfactory really, so I have printed a cover in ABS.

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It sits flush with the carpet.

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I like that Dave. Any chance you could link to slightly bigger pictures?

I haven't sorted out the access flap I cut in my floor after doing my engine conversion - but this seems like a nice solution and I think I could just about squeeze it on one of our printers.

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Hi Sloth, I have gone back and changed the pics as you asked.
The hatch fits the corrugations in the floor and the cover / lid finishes flush, so the carpet lays flat. It is 205mm x 220mm. I couldn't print it before but I have got a new slightly larger printer. The hatch must be up to version 8 or 9 now. I have lost count. Two 6mm bolts on each side and another four to bolt the lid on. I used screw inserts to hold the lid.
I was going to use sealant between the floor and bottom bit but haven't bothered yet. It might be needed if you go wading.
It might be just me but I think there might be transmission noise being transmitted through the plastic cover, so I may stick some soundproofing underneath.
I have not yet posted the design on Thingiverse, but if you want to have a go at printing it, pm me and I will send the .stl files.

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You could probably 3D print some and sell them to a number of us here. The fact that it fits the corrugations is a big plus.

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Hi Harv, the cover is in two pieces and they were long prints using ABS filament, like 12 hours+ each, so I don't fancy doing a run of them, even to sell. It is just an interest of mine.
3d printers have never been so cheap, if you fancy having a go. They are under $200 now for a decent one. Made in China of course.
I can let you have the files. An alternative is for you to get it printed commercially but just a one off for you yourself personnally.
I don't want my designs to get released out there for everyone. Anyone to could then start selling them. With Thingiverse you have to agree it is non commercial before you can sign up.

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Thanks Dave. At this point I’m not planning on buying a printer, but that might happen one day. So far I haven’t needed access to my pump but it’s really nice to have an access panel when you do. On my D2 I needed to T/S a fuel quantity issue and the panel made that job a lot easier.

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Great job Dave. Did you cut the original access with the tank still in place? I may have to access my sender unt and was a bit nervous of angle grinding above the tank!

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Yes, the tank was still in place when I cut it.
I used a dremel and their speedclic metal cutting discs. They are 38mm diam so don't protrude down much.
Just take your time, Amazing what you can do with a dremel.
If you print the bottom bit first you can locate it in the right place in the floor corugations and use it as a template.
Then use a marker pen on the inside edge.

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Perfect. Thanks Dave.

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Hi Dave,
How did you finish the edges of the sheet metal to prevent rust?
I have a raised air intake that I'd like to get fitted this December, but I haven't decided how to deal with the cut edge of the sheet metal. It doesn't need to be pretty since the intake will cover it by quite a margin, but I don't want it to rust under there!

I've also just purchased a 3D printer, so at some stage I'll ask you to please send me your fuel pump cover files. Probably next year sometime.
Your cover looks good!

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I have only just done the cover so the job is not 100% finished. So far I have just filed the edges to remove any roughness. It is still bright metal.
I was going to use Tiger Seal to bond the bottom frame bit to the metal. Maybe I should paint round with Hammerite or Rustoleum first.

Let me know when you want the files. You need a largish print bed of 230x230. My old one was only 200x200.
I printed it in ABS as I said, but ABS warps terribly. You may be better printing it in PETG or even PLA, it's easier.
I used 6mm nuts and bolts and 8mm screw inserts to screw the lid on.

Anybody who has other suggestions what to make, speak now. I was looking at fitting two air compressors, one outside the EAS box on a special bracket. I know Marty has fitted two compressors. Maybe a pressure gauge bracket for under the bonnet.
I am doing a windscreen ice scraper at the minute. Not needed in SA.

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LHF hub and bearing. Finally got tired of the squeak I have been putting up with for two years.

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dave3d wrote:

I have only just done the cover so the job is not 100% finished. So far I have just filed the edges to remove any roughness. It is still bright metal.
I was going to use Tiger Seal to bond the bottom frame bit to the metal. Maybe I should paint round with Hammerite or Rustoleum first.

Let me know when you want the files. You need a largish print bed of 230x230. My old one was only 200x200.
I printed it in ABS as I said, but ABS warps terribly. You may be better printing it in PETG or even PLA, it's easier.
I used 6mm nuts and bolts and 8mm screw inserts to screw the lid on.

Thanks!
I've bought an Ender 5 Pro that has a 220x220x300high print volume, so just too small. If you send me the CAD model I can just split it into two parts and glue them together after. Or maybe just shrink it down a bit to fit my bed. You've already done the hard part of fitting it to the contours of the bed correctly, in essence that is probably the most important part of the CAD model!

dave3d wrote:

Anybody who has other suggestions what to make, speak now. I was looking at fitting two air compressors, one outside the EAS box on a special bracket. I know Marty has fitted two compressors. Maybe a pressure gauge bracket for under the bonnet.
I am doing a windscreen ice scraper at the minute. Not needed in SA.

We did a snow trip to Lesotho this past winter, and the snow scraper would definitely have come in handy!

enter image description here

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Ah Lesotho! Very fond memories there flying for the Lesotho Flying Doctor Sevice in 1987. A very beautiful country.