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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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Hi, thanks for the info. I currently have a NanoCom. Can you tell me where I can read and set that with the Nanocom?

Archie

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GEMS - Inputs - Air and Idle - Idle air control valve, this will show the number of steps open the IACV is The number when idling with a warm engine should be between 15 and 30 (closer to 30 is better). If outside of that you adjust the idle bypass screw, the one on the top of the throttle body that once had an anti-tamper cap on it.

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I've spent another half day on this weird EAS behaviour on Nigellbb's car. Although the Nanocom shows all of the valves to be closed, listening to them shows that they are opening but probably not for long enough for the Nano to register the change of state. Took it out with the Nano connected and while driving it remains at the height it should be, it's only when stationary it doesn't. While sitting there with the engine running, the pump cuts in and the car rises, it overshoots the set heights, the pump switches off and it drops but overshoots again and drops lower than it should. Re-checked the calibration with my blocks and the difference side to side is 8 bits maximum so that shouldn't cause a problem (I don't think). I'm beginning to suspect the ECU as it permanently shows the doors to be closed even if they aren't (so still moves with a door, any door, open), the Nano shows the pump to be On all the time, even when it isn't, and the pressure switch is shown as open even when the pump shuts off (realised later that I hadn't checked the status of the thermal switch though). I considered swapping the ECU with mine until I realised that would involve taking the passenger seat out of both cars. It's working as it should when being driven so I've given up on that. Unless someone has any other ideas......

Nigel had mentioned that it seemed to take longer to rise up when it had been left for a long time so had dropped and the pump didn't sound right either. It's a Dunlop branded one dated 2019 so hasn't been on that long, but didn't seem to be producing much pressure, not as much as I would expect. Fortunately I'd got a spare, brand new and unused sleeve and a piston with a decent seal on it (from a pump that had burnt out it's motor). Took the top off the pump and found a lot of wear in the seal, so rebuilt it using the spare piston, brand new sleeve and a new O ring (from my box of assorted EAS bits) under the flap valve. I also found the screws holding the motor to the pump were loose too. Fitted that and while it didn't stop it rising and falling, it refilled the system much quicker and is a lot quieter too.

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My IACV value is 38%, the adjustment screw has not been used yet. I have now turned the Bowden cables a little and set the idle speed warm to about 800 rpm. I have not yet read out the value. If the value is not between 15-30, should I turn the screw?
Is it useful to clean the throttle valve with spray?

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It isn't a percentage, it's the number of steps (although the Nano may show it as a percentage) and it has probably reached the limit at idle. You shouldn't need to adjust the cables, they should have a small amount of slack on them when the throttle is closed. Cleaning the butterfly won't do any harm. The throttle will close off almost fully and the IACV allows air to bypass the butterfly to maintain idle. When you open the throttle very slightly, the IACV opens to raise the revs slightly at very small throttle openings. If it's never been adjusted, it will almost certainly need adjustment. It's either a small Torx or Allen key you need to adjust it.

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To follow up on Richard's report after I collected the car & was about half way home the SRS AIRBAG FAULT came up on the dashboard. At Richard's suggestion I read the error code with my iCarsoft CR PRO which I've never used in anger on the P38 before (I bought it for my Jaguar S-type) which was reported as "Short circuit fault in driver airbag circuit". This seemed odd as it seemed most likely that if the fault was related to the recent work it would a loose connection as the wiring got disturbed. I unplugged & replugged the airbag connectors under each seat after applying some circuit cleaner but without success. It still seemed most likely that it was a disturbed cable after having the dashboard out but I started depressing myself by reading forum posts about intractable airbag faults.

As luck would have it I had managed to leave my Jaguar car keys in the central console of Richard's P38 Ascot that I borrowed while mine was in pieces. It's a 180 mile round trip from my place to Richard's but only about 10 miles from where I work 2-3 days per week. I normally commute with my 2.7 diesel S-type as it's so much more economical than my 4.6L P38 so leaving my keys in the Ascot probably cost me £30 as I had to drive to work in the P38 yesterday! However it did mean that I could pop over to see Richard who was able to read the error codes with his Nanocom which was reported as an open circuit fault with the driver airbag which made more sense.

Richard whipped off the access panel under the steering column then unplugged & replugged the airbag connector switched the ignition on & the error code was gone & hasn't reappeared. Result!

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Changed the Oil..

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Runs good on the stuff, easily the quietest it has ever been..

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I have finally levelled the girl out and set the heights for the EAS. Now safe to let it go in to motorway height without the nose diving to some random setting.

Changed the front anti roll bar bushes back to black rubber and some new drop links to suit. They had been some extremely soft polybush previous.

Set the steering wheel straight and replaced a leaking power steering pipe.

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Got an MOT!
She's in good shape but she got an advisory for a slightly perished rear air spring.. .I've got one in the garage with all the clips so... One day soon (ish)

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I took my P38 through a car wash today after filling up with fuel. It looks nice & shiny now even if there are a few bumps & scrapes that it's picked up over the years.

I also fitted new wiper blades all round. I bought them from https://www.wiperblades.co.uk. I went for the Michelin Radius Retrofit Beam at a total of £39.10 including next day delivery. They are lovely soft rubber & do a great job in the rain very quietly.