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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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Cursed Britpart and realised I have a magic screwdriver. Nothing to do with Range Rovers but had to visit an AC system I installed a couple of weeks ago this morning. 2 indoor units from a single outdoor unit but one of the indoor units had stopped working. A bit of an odd fault as it appeared to work, the fan came on, no fault indicators but no cold air, just ambient. Did a bit of checking and found pressures were all over the place on the faulty one but fine on the working one. Called technical support who suggested that maybe the actuator on the top of the expansion valve had popped off. So, 18 self tappers later to get the covers off found it hadn't. Checked all the connections, which appeared fine and switched the unit back on while watching the pressures. They changed as they should but kept on going and a strange whistling started coming from the expansion valve, so I tapped it with the screwdriver handle. The whistling stopped, the pressures stabilised and the unit started to work properly.

So that was the morning but in the afternoon had to repeat a job on the Classic. Having previously replaced the petrol pump with a brand new Britpart one, I'd tried to start it yesterday and found the pump wasn't working. Checked for power, all OK but the pump itself measured open circuit when I put my meter on it. Duff pump then. Checked and found that while I could get another Britpart one for around £30, a genuine LR one would have been £544. Another Britpart it is then.

Postman had delivered it by the time I got in so I set about dropping the tank again. Having done it a few days ago this time it was easy, no seized bolts and I knew exactly what needed to come off and in what order. New pump fitted and the Classic fired up immediately so turned my attention to the one I'd just taken off. It looked perfect but the meter still showed it to be open circuit until I tapped it with the screwdriver handle when the reading went to normal. Put power on it and it worked! So, 2 jobs in one day, both of which could have been cured with a tap from my magic screwdriver......

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I don't suppose your screwdriver is for sale is it?

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Opened the bonnet and checked the coolant and oil levels (neither of which had moved). However, that was today but prior to that it all started on Sunday afternoon. Hitched up a fully loaded Erde 122 trailer, Dina and two dogs and headed for Dover. Across on the ferry to Calais then drove to a place called Lelystad in the north of the Netherlands to pick up Dina's daughter. After an hour then set off in an easterly direction arriving at our hotel in Warsaw around teatime. So that was Sunday and Monday. Tuesday morning we left Warsaw and travelled north to Dina's parents on the coast in Latvia arriving here about 9 last night. So, that's around 1,600 miles and the trip computer is showing an average speed of 60mph even though I'd only been cruising at 70-75 all the way, although did stop to fill up with LPG 8 times......

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I've also discovered something I wasn't aware of. East and North of Poland it is a legal requirement to have lights on all the time and not just when it is dark. From past experience that means I either forget to switch them off when getting out of the car or switch them on when I start driving. I remembered there is a Daylight Running Light option in the BeCM so whipped out the Nanocom at one of my many fuel stops and went into it. Option are Disabled, Sidelights only or Sidelights and Dipped headlights so I went for the latter. Sure enough the headlights come on as soon as the engine is running and go off as soon as it is switched off. But it is only the headlights, no dash lights (so no green tell-tale on the dash), fog lights won't come on if you poke the button and other than flashing the lights, the dipswitch doesn't do anything so you can't put main beam on. Damn clever this BeCM thing.....

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That’s similar to how my Canadian DRL works, except I can still flash the dip switch and get high beams momentarily.

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What happens if the headlight switch is on? Because I could really do with the headlights turning off with the ignition. For.. erm. .reasons :)

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Yes, my headlight flash works but that is only while the stalk is pulled, you can't change to main beam. If the headlight switch is on, they stay on just the same as if DRL wasn't enabled, sorry.

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ah well, thanks :)

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fixing the side step trim on my L320 only to find that one of the brackets has corroded fairly bad and will need replacing
old step removed cleaned and had a coat of red oxide paint
and tomorrow will be a coat of black hammerite and reattach trim on with new stainless steel rivets

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MOT time has come round again. Seems like I have only just done it. Can't be a year surely?
Booked it in for late Friday afternoon, just before the mechanics clock off. Is that good or bad? Maybe they wiil rush it to finish early.
I am not aware of any issues and have been regularly using the car. I looked at last years certificate. One advisory, handbrake too high.
Not been fixed, still the same 12 months later, so I thought I had better fix it now in case they read the past history. So today I adjusted the bolt on the back of the drum as a starting point, then finally took the slack out of the cable. Handbrake is fixed but I observed a drip from the engine which was diesel from the spill back pipes. Replaced 4 of the pipes this afternoon and promptly ran out of tubing (1m of tubing in the kit !).
Will carry on this week. Stressful time.

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Car passed the MOT. One advisory. Ugh. Rubber boot over a track rod end has a split in it.
Tester at least said the car was well maintained.

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I have just replaced the lettering front and back lettering on the car and it looks much better. The original letters had gone a dark grey, and the difference between the old and new letters is striking. Just a bit pricey though.

Next job is to change the black upper centre console section, where the switches and clock are, for a printed ABS plastic section that I got from Charlie Nicolas. This will complete the sections from the armrest storage box, which is still black leatherette, to the top of the centre console in walnut ABS trim. It also matches the door sections and the strips across the front bulkhead from the glove box to the small piece to the right of the steering wheel.

Later that day - I am happy to say that I have fitted the new, Walnut Burr style upper centre panel. It was easy to do, and I am very happy with the look. The section that I got off Charles Nicolas was a very good condition one, but it was a Sat Nav panel with the large opening beside the clock. I was lucky enough to get a large storage box from the US, new old stock. Now the centre console section is all matched to the original Walnut patterned gear shift panel, which seems to be a wood pattern in all P38's.

I am not bothering with the speedometer/instruments binnacle because I think that it is too much having that done in walnut pattern.

Pierre3.

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Good nice looking!

Me, I finally got around to change that pesky brake switch which was giving me continuous beeps and errors.
Hope later to get it out on the highway and see if the cruise control came back as well ...
Next in line refit door cards.

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spent this afternoon putting exhaust manifold bolts in my L320 4.2 SC sport bloody pig of a job as not much room to get to the front bolts as they behind the alternator

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Finally took delivery of my new (used) engine yesterday. Never buying anything big from a man on Facebook again! It took almost a month and a half, endless excuses and no progress at all until I asked for my money back.

Started taking off all the accessories and the exhaust manifolds. Found one of the manifold bolts suspiciously loose, barely finger tight. Turns out whoever did the recent head gasket job has stripped out the threads and didn't fix it. Now I'm doubting the quality of the rest of the work done, especially seeing the oil filter used. It's a brand I've never heard of - anyone know anything about Fujitoyo filters?

Stripped exhaust manifold bolt hole thread

The thread on the oil cooler is also completely and absolutely mullered. I was planning on hooking it up to complete the oil circuit so I could do an oil pressure test. I guess I'm not doing that now!

Stripped oil cooler thread

Water pump pulley is wobbly too so it'll need a new one of those too. Other than, I think it looks ok on the surface. A bit dirty but cleaner than I expected.

Does this look like a new flex plate? The rear end of the engine is really clean. Worth disassembling further to replace the rear main seal or assume it's been done looking at these images? Part of me says do it anyway just to be sure but another part of me says if it ain't broke don't fix it.

Flex plate
Flywheel bolts

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Oh wow, I’d say it’s worse than doubtful. Can you get your money back by complaining to eBay? It’s too bad that people will try to sell shoddy parts that they know aren’t up to snuff.

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I doubt eBay would be willing to help, I got it from a guy on a Facebook group :P

I think I'm fairly stuck with it. This guy wasn't on the list of "approved sellers" (I didn't know such a list existed until after the fact) and I didn't even use PayPal goods and services :(

I knew upfront that it has been worked on recently. He told me it had head gaskets done recently but no paperwork wit it. He did also tell me upfront that the oil cooler thread was damaged. I didn't really expect the thread to be completely gone though lol.

I think at best I might be able to work out a partial refund on it to cover the cost repairing the stripped manifold bolt. If it has low compression and low oil pressure I'll push for a full refund but I think I'll be out of luck.

Edit: just messaged the guy. He doesn't want to know. I've told him the bolt was loose and I found the thread stripped and he said "I personally believe you've stripped the thread on removal". Yay, this is going to go well if I find anything more serious wrong :(

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Oh yes I see you said Facebook not eBay. The seller is certainly a shmuck! That’s all too bad.

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He's just been trying to convince me that every bolt in the engine is imperial. I had to show him the Land Rover classic parts website to prove the exhaust manifold bolts on a Thor are M8 rather than 3/8 UNC. Even then he's trying to say it looks like a coarse thread rather than a standard M8. I'm amazed, there's not enough thread left in the photo to tell anything lol. Feels like he's trying hard to appear like he knows more than me to try and make me believe he's right stripping it myself on removal.

I can deal with a stripped thread, it's not the end of the world. It's a used engine and I can't expect it to be in perfect condition. I only mentioned it to him because he said to let him know if anything is broken and he'll sort it. Apparently not. Low compression/oil pressure would really be a problem though.

Lesson learned though, buy from a platform that offers you protection as a buyer and use a payment method that offers you protection!

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Sorry to hear about this misadventure ... I had this happening to me on a engine that was "using a little oil" and ended up being worse than a 2stroke ... I am very wary now of buying such a complex item such as engine secondhand ...

Me progress? Well, after endless time I finally refitted the tubing for the cruise control ... it works again!
I noticed sometimes it raises and dips the engine revs, like "hunting" to stabilize the right speed. Might be normal, but I do not recall this behavior before.

I also re-sync the fob ... finally I can remote open and close the car, like every other modern car!
Unfortunately I was met with a "key battery low" message, but the lid in the fob is truly stuck! I will have to destroy and get another one .... darn