As I do more long distance driving on the wrong side of the road than over here, I've masked my lights to give a flat cut off on dip. I've painted mine as tape gets pulled off by the headlamp wipers but tape will work just as well if you put it in the correct place.
RH lamp
LH lamp
If you look, you'll see the lens has the sections marked that need to be masked.
I have a Nanocom but I prefer the interface of Storey Wilson's EAS Unlock which runs on Windows. I purchased a licence for the V4 version of the software. It does most everything that the Nanocom can do but is easier to use. I have been running EAS Unlock in a virtual machine on my MacBook Pro but I noticed that pretty decent Windows tablets are very cheap used on eBay. I just got a HP ElitePad PRO G2-1000 running Windows 11 for £74.99. It runs EAS Unlock perfectly. It came with an OTG USB adapter & works with the cable that Storey sent me when I bought the V4 licence. It didn't work with a couple of other cables that I have that were purchased on eBay as there was a comms error. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/325644071523
Gilbertd wrote:
As I do more long distance driving on the wrong side of the road than over here, I've masked my lights to give a flat cut off on dip. I've painted mine as tape gets pulled off by the headlamp wipers but tape will work just as well if you put it in the correct place.
RH lamp
LH lamp
If you look, you'll see the lens has the sections marked that need to be masked.
What paint did you use? It looks like you applied it with a palette knife.😀 It needs to be opaque, not run & stick to glass so perhaps it was very thick?
I've just ordered a roll of matt black sticky back plastic so will experiment.
It's touch up paint for the car but slobbered on good and thick so it is opaque. I used it because I figured it wouldn't look so obvious and it happened to be sitting on the shelf in the garage. If it can be put on thick enough to stock the light coming through, silver paint would probably be the least noticeable. If you follow the mouldings on the light units and shine the headlights on a wall, you'll see the dip pattern is flat if you got it right.
I bought a roll of matt black sticky back plastic to use instead of touch up paint. It's much finer & stickier than Fablon the original sticky back plastic. It makes a very nice job & the roll that I bought for £6.99 is sufficient for a hundred headlights!😀 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0BRR7VQYY?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
A page ago I mentioned while replacing the oil in the diffs, the rear one came quote more "brownish" than the front one.
I was wondering if it was related to the towing life my beast is forced to.
Last week, a friend bought his dream 4x4, a YJ Wangler with the 4.0 engine, and was asking to check what oils to buy.
Looking at the specs, Jeep lists 80W-90 for the diffs, but "75w-140 recommended in rear differentials for warm weather towing applications".
Now, you might want to dismiss this as "nah it is a Jeep thing", but I thing it does make a bit of sense.
Did not find any similar reference to this in Land Rover literature, but going around other info from the other side of the pond, using 75W-140 for those who regularly tow 'heavy' is quite a normal thing.
I even found some info (but only on forums so I need to confirm) newer API standard is moving from 75W-90 to 75W-110 ....
It all makes sense to me, but on the other hand I have never read what temps does the diff oil get at, let us say hi-highway speed - at least 130/135kph, I seldom push past that, although I believe the beast could take it.
Finally I took on replacing the LPG reducer, which was long overdue, and purchased months ago.
Great moment also to replace the hoses between reducer and tidy up the area - installer put two "T" in the engine to heater matrix and return hoses, whereas I was planning to put the LPG in-line with the heater (engine>LPG>heater and not disturb the return hose), as I think is the norm when you want to do it like it should ....
All was going well until I realized I did not do my homework proper and the pipes on the heater are 21 or 22 mm whereas the hose I bought was 19 (I measured with the caliper only on the engine side, did not imagine ...).
As I obviously found out too late to run back to the shop, also because I stupidly went over to a friend 25km away from home to spend some time there and do the job there while we beer and chat, I had to return to high octane "benziiin" ...
Was an expensive journey.
Tomorrow I will go again to the shop to get some size of 21 or 22 hose, and change one of the "L-angle" joints from 19-16 as I had purchased today. As I have no time to secure quickly a new return hose, I will ask for a 22-19 reducer as well, until I get the proper hose. I wanted to reduce the number of joints, but will have to be in two phases.
Will bring some pictures with the next update ...
To be honest, the journey back was also expensive because my mate had borrowed a ML500 W164 and we took a route through some more 'deserted' roads ... and we could not resist open and let the V8s rip :-)
No way I can keep up close with it (almost 100hp more, and extra gear, and longer ratios better matched), but I was never more than a few dozen meters away, surprisingly. Up to 140/150 at least, after that I started to struggle to I pull back.
Kudos to the P38, always holds its own :-)
I walked straight past it and started up the Jeep (first hit). I don't yet know what punishment I will receive from The Duchess for this behaviour!
She'll have a hissy fit at you now.
I've just spent some time under the bonnet of mine as I'm setting off to drive 1,520 miles first thing in the morning. It isn't due a service yet (but will be by the time I get home) so it was just a check of the levels, a bit ore air in the tyres and a trip to the Romanian car wash in the next village. I always like to at least start the journey with it looking presentable, it rarely does when I get to my destination though.
talking about hissy fits , i parked mine outside for a couple of days while i fixed a friends car and now the intermittent wipers aren't working properly and when i opened the glove box to get the nano out it was damp , not happy , that's me not the car.
Yesterday the car passed the CT with no advisories. The shiny new exhaust & lambda sensors fixed the emissions & the sticky back plastic plus a bit of adjustment sorted the headlights.
I had almost forgotten that prior to the first CT two years ago I had also adjusted the position of the headlight bulbs on advice I found on Landyzone. The H4 bulb has 3 tangs that control the orientation of the bulb. On the P38 headlamp, only the upper most tang controls the location for RHD, the other two tangs are in a wider slot made for either LHD or RHD. To convert RHD to LHD you simply need to bend the upper most tang to 90 degrees so it does not engage and then rotate the bulb to the alternate position as controlled by the other tangs. This gives a reasonable LHD beam pattern especially with the left headlight adjusted to point a little more to the right and down a bit.