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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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Cheers Both!

I'm gonna cut the foam I think..

Ordered some damp rid!

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About 80 miles to and from Shooting with about 30 yards off road. Then to the local hand wash place for a super-deluxe wash and dry for £9.
The HEVAC screen came to life on the way home.
She's doing well!

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fixed a big scratch ;)
The before.

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And the After.

enter image description here

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Looks good, how did you do it?

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Meguires ultimate compound and a DA polsiher

Took around 40mins to remove.

Taking my time ;) LOL

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Tried to start her this morning, three cranks with a stumble followed by long crank and nothing :(
Jumped into the Jeep.

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Morat wrote:

Tried to start her this morning, three cranks with a stumble followed by long crank and nothing :(
Jumped into the Jeep.

What's wrong with it mate?

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Sounds like a poorly fuel pump to me.

What have I done with mine today. Well, I used the ex-plod to take Dina to do the weekly shop, filled it up with LPG and took it back home again. Decided I needed to do something which would have involved moving the Ascot so tried that one. Hasn't been run for about 4 weeks but with a Hankook MF31 on it, doors unlocked on the fob, fired up first turn of the key, so moved it. A bit damp inside from condensation, so left it to run for a while to dry it out and noticed although the temperature gauge was up to normal, the heater was still blowing cold. Checked the coolant level and it took about 4 litres. Really must get around to replacing the leaking core plugs.......

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Crank no start this morning, not even a cough. I gave her 4 hits of about 10-15 seconds each, then just for the hell of it I decided to run the gear lever through the gate from P-1-P. Then she started straight up and has behaved perfectly through 4 stop start cycles since.
Is there a separate Neutral Safety Switch circuit/switch to the one that supplies info to the dash?

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Morat wrote:

Is there a separate Neutral Safety Switch circuit/switch to the one that supplies info to the dash?

No.

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Hmm, I'm pretty sure it said P on the dash. I'll double check next time. I guess it could be a fuel issue, but there aren't any symptoms once it's running. Maybe it's leaking down between runs. I'll get a fuel pressure gauge on it this weekend.

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If it wasn't in P or N, then the starter wouldn't turn. I had a problem on my old fusebox where connection of the fuel pump relay was intermittent. Firing a couple of times the dying would be a sign of the fuel pump not running. Not sure how cycling through the gears would affect it though.

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It must have been coincidence, but it was a convincing one - she went direct from crank only to running smoothly with nothing in between apart from the gear stick waggle!
The Duchess has her little moods :)

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Priming time if the ignition was on during waggle?

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Good shout, but I don't think so. I'd walked away in disgust and came back a few seconds later thinking "may as well" with the gear lever waggle.
In fact it had plenty of time to prime before the first go as I had let the ABS pump finish priming before cranking. I often do that if the car has been sitting a while as I think it gives the battery a slightly easier time. Whether it makes a real difference or not I don't know, but the ABS pump does draw a few amps.

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If you've got the Hankook, it can run the ABS pump, the EAS compressor, both blowers on flat out, all the lights and still crank the engine over without any problem......

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My next battery will be a Hankook, but for now i'm massaging my Bosch

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Gilbertd wrote:

If you've got the Hankook, it can run the ABS pump, the EAS compressor, both blowers on flat out, all the lights and still crank the engine over without any problem......

I do, and it certainly can :) I was just babying it for no good reason.

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Driven it, hit 390,000 a few minutes ago and got two trips to France in the next couple of months so with any luck I'll get it up to 400,000 before the next MoT in August.

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That's awesome Richard. Definitely helps boost the confidence level on my "almost new" P38.