You need to swap the ECU and do a few wiring mods, but swapping to Wabco D is possible, theres a writeup for the swap floating around but i dont remember where.
Yeah mine are similar to yours Richard.
Tried to check the receipt but it was an ebay link for Maltings offroad who sold the cooler and both pipes as a kit. Suggests Allmakes4x4 on the listing now, but who knows if thats what it was back then, they were bought june 2020. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272730150024
Now i'm worried I fitted shitpart ones to mine when i did the cooler a year or two back 🤔
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-QzCUIocppM
Bit slow and shows him installing a fitting rather than pipe but it works the same way and shows how it goes together.
tanis8472 wrote:
About 2 years old. About 9000 miles.
So they are butted up?
The one still attached looks like something has blown out too
The steel collar does the same kinda job as a jubilee clip. Except its permanent.
So the rubber hose is slid over the steel pipe, and then the steel collar slipped over the joint and crimped in a machine with a precise die which crushes the hose and clamps the assembly together.
However like i said, usually when i've seen these things, the steel pipe would have barbs or ridges on it to increase the "grip" on the rubber hose.
Also, i really hope that when you say "pulled off at J4" you meant "shut the engine off and stopped immediately"
If you've driven it even a mile with no oil pressure its likely the engine is scrap.
The rubber hose is crimped onto the end of the steel pipe with a hydraulic machine. I'm a little surprised there is no barb on the steel line.
I guess the rubber has deteriorated over time and eventually lost sufficient "grip" on the pipe that its come apart.
It often doesn't get locked anyway so we might not notice even if it refuser, but I've said to the wife about the beep/message and showed her what to do.
I'll have a go with the brake cleaner when I get a chance and see if that helps the sticking too.
It's been totally fine since and i haven't even charged it yet, so it's nothing terminal like the alternator or even the battery itself.
So I assume it must be something kept the becm awake...
The ignition barrel has been sticking a bit and it will often say "ignition key in" when you open the door. I usually poke the end of the barrel and it clicks out, I guess maybe the wife hasn't done that and it's thought the key has been left in for a couple days?
I've got the RF filter box so generally don't have any battery issues with the P38. It can sit for weeks or even months and starts no bother... Except Sunday!
Wife used it on Wednesday/Thursday, it's sat for a couple days, went to start it on Sunday and it managed about half an engine revolution, then nothing.
Grabbed a spare battery and jumped it and away it went. Drove 5mins to the park and it restarted fine after the park, and it's been fine since...
I want to give the battery a full charge, but are there any other common issues that can cause drain like this? Couldn't see anything obvious like lights left on.
when my brother did this on his BMW (unopenable keyfob battery had died on his one) he dremelled it open. The replacement/aftermarket case clipped together.
Pic of the trim/overlap, you can see the bottom edge is all scratched from it rubbing
What I really want is a set of ash grey door cards with leather panels (anyone got a set?), but in the mean time I'm going to vinyl wrap the "wood" inserts on my granite cards..., does anyone have any spares knocking about? At least the drivers side two as I've ruined them with glue from a previous failed idea 🤣
I'm also trying to figure out why the dash trim is rubbing on the small trim next to the steering wheel? Any pointers how that piece comes off and why it's rubbing?
fwiw, i dont think i can hear the EAS compressor in the cabin at all. I do hear the brake pump though.
Yeah that looks like it. It looks like it clips to the bottom edge of the top section of the top of the tailgate. The top section is painted body color, then theres a black trim. That trim has a nasty dent in it, so if i'm going to buy the tailgate i'd like to swap it out.
Does anyone know how easily the black lip on the lower edge of the rear spoiler on the tailgate comes off?
The local breakers has a mint tailgate, but the black lip has a bad dent in it.
Mine makes generic wind noise. If you open it or tilt it a tiny amount the noise changes and you can sometimes "improve" it, but then the dash reports "Sunroof open". If you push/pull on the glass again you can make it quieter. Its clearly not sitting correctly against the seals. It probably would be improved noise-wise if the blind was closable, but closing the blind results in fabric and bits of foam falling into your hair and all over the cabin so gets left retracted.
Having tried to seal up a leaking sunroof on a previous car with silicone and polyurethane type sealants, the idea of trying to seal up this one in the same way doesnt appeal in the slightest. Removing it entirely and welding up the hole feels like a better solution but i suspect i'm somewhat under estimating the amount of work involved there. 🤣
yeah i do have a nanocom, but it'll still howl with the wind and potentially leak water into the cabin etc etc.
The shutter/blind thing will also need retrimmed as thats all peeling off and falling to bits, which requires digging into the guts of the sunroof mechanism...
Not sure which is the lesser of two evils, dismantling, retrimming and reassembling the sunroof assembly or welding up the hole in the roof... 🤣
This is why jobs never get done... i always over-think everything, but i really dont like sunroofs, and given it all needs to come out suddenly it seems like a good idea to pick up a non-sunroof headliner, retrim it and then "simply swap it over"
I need to sort the headliner out, and i've been thinking about the sunroof... I dont like sunroofs, they leak, they're noisey, and my one wont set so i have a permanent error saying "Sunroof not set" on the dashboard.
Seen as i need to rip it all out anyway to do the headliner, i'm wondering if i should just remove it permanently?
Weld something over the hole perhaps? Anyone tried anything similar (on a P38 or anything else)?
Anyone fancy cutting out a section of roof skin from a breaker?
The LPG stations near me are dwindling for sure. There are two in a nearby town 5 miles away, which is already annoying as its kinda off route for anywhere i usually go. However the last few times i've visited those they've had none. There are none in my own town. There used to be 2 or 3 shell stations i passed along my 40 mile commute and they've all gone now after Calor closed down Autogas, so theres no LPG stations along my commute at all any more.
Wifes been running it around at 12mpg on petrol for the last few weeks, which is very much "ouch" territory.
Another potential appeal of the L322 is actually fuel economy. Reports are they'll do 18-20mpg on a run. My P38 gets around 200miles to about 85L of LPG. With LPG at 80p and petrol at £1.60, the cost difference isnt actually that big. P38 is doing about 34p a mile (plus some extra for petrol at cold start etc) and the L322 would be around 38p a mile. Ofcourse a LPG L322 would be even better, but those seem fraught with issues, and given LPG is getting hard to find, switching back to petrol at roughly the same cost has an appeal!
Bleh, i think my immediate plan is to try and get my A4 thru an MOT, and then tackle some of the bigger jobs on the P38. Maybe feed it some gaskets and see if we cant relight the mojo. I figure if i want to swap to a L322, i really need to be able to sell the P38, which means fixing the worst bits like the head gaskets. I bought a drivers interior door handle from the scrappy at the weekend to replace mine as the return spring has broken. I'll probably be keeping half an eye out for a L322 as well though 😂