Finally got it swapped out on sunday. Not driven properly far in it, but had a few journeys and no recurrence of the issue thus far.

Old sensor looked totally fine, and the new one was identical right down to the markings on it, so despite the "OEM" claims of this new one, clearly it wasnt...

PDF drawings would be useful, always handy building a library of knowledge.

What you describe is exactly what mine does with the MAF unplugged. It'll start, then cutout, once maybe twice, then start with a bit of help from the throttle and eventually settle to a low idle and otherwise drive fine.

Have you got a fault code reader? These cars seem to never bring the EML on, so there could be faults lurking.

Sounds like he missunderstood the requirements.

As always with MOT's its finding somewhere decent that doesnt take the piss.

Clearly you want the guy to actually pick up stuff and not do a stevie wonder job, but at the same time, fails for stupid stuff "oh you've got a split wiper blade" is daft.

I think also, once they catch on that you fix stuff yourself, they can often change their tune a bit.

Yeh, the TPS is a bit more annoying as those seem to be dealer only for £100, maybe better of trying to find someone breaking a GEMS engine and getting a used one...

This forum really needs a "for sale" and "wanted" section!

thanks guys, ordered a bearmach sensor from LRDirect which claims to be OEM so will give that a go.

Oddly enough, this car seems to have a history with crank sensors. When i bought it, it was sold as a non runner, and the guy said the crank sensor was broken, and it would run for about 10-15mins then die. He said his garage had diagnosed the sensor had become contaminated with oil and the only way to fix it properly was to replace the rear main seal. Reading between the lines i figured he'd already changed the sensor, and it had broken again after a short period of time, and i figured it might have just been a crappy britpart sensor he used...

So the first thing i did was bought and fitted a new crank sensor. Sure enough when i removed the old one, i could see it was obviously not that old... It also wasnt that oily despite the leaking rear seal leading me to suspect his oil contamination theory was bunk too... However that didnt actually fix the problem, which instead turned out to be a faulty MAF.

So the sensor in there is only a year old, but was also a cheapy from ebay, so its entirely possible these cheap ass sensors are simply junk. Fingers crossed this bearmach one is better, or i'll have to stump up the £100 for a genuine one.

It idles perfectly normally and revs fine if you keep it below 1500rpm, the problem happens on both petrol and LPG, my gut feeling is i dont think its fuelling related.

I'm wondering if its a crank sensor issue? Or something ignitiony

I figure its better making a new thread about this, rather than adding to the other post, as i'm fairly sure its a new/seperate issue...

As per this thread:
https://rangerovers.pub/topic/853?page=2

The car had weird fuelling issues before its MOT. It failed the test with massively high CO, then after being parked for a few weeks, would barely run at all with massive missfiring and belching out black smoke. Plugs were all caked black with soot when i removed them. There was a fault code which pointed to the MAF, so i got one from ebay, fitted it along with some new plugs and it passed the MOT just fine with perfect CO readings.

Fast forward to last night. Its not been used since it passed the MOT as it wasnt taxed, but i taxed it yesterday and took it out for a run to get pizza. Drove perfectly well all the way there and all the way home. It wasnt hugely far, maybe 4 or 5miles but enough to get it fully warmed up etc. Even gave it a full throttle blast upto 60mph and it was all fine. Until i turned into my street, when all of a sudden it wouldnt rev. Idled fine as did very light throttle, so i trundled into the drive and parked up.

Some cursory checking last night showed it was exactly the same on both petrol and LPG, and missfired both under load and while revving in neutral, at the same point on the revs. It would rev upto about 1500rpm, any more and it starts acting up. I tried it with the MAF unplugged, exactly the same. MAF readings also looked sensible enough. Lambdas also looked sane. I reset adaptions and no change. Checked CTS and it read fine.

Left it overnight, went out this afternoon and fired it up from cold, problem gone. reset adaptions and put everything back together and took it out for another drive. Sure enough, after about 10minutes, same shit. Managed to drive it home with light throttle. I dont think its load related specifically, but obviously being an automatic the rpms naturally want to climb up past 1500rpm and thus it starts spluttering.

I made a short video, i thaught the audio would have been much more audiable but its not that great annoyingly. Hopefully if you crank the volume right up you can hear it. However you can see me blip the throttle a few times at the start and it revs cleanly, then slowly adding throttle up to 1500rpm and you hear it start its weirdness, then i really opened the throttle and it started popping and banging.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/vu2ivbphj76cv0c/2018-05-02%2015.46.32.mp4?dl=0

Well mine certainly seems to run fine without it normally. The first couple of starts are difficult until the ECU realises its not there, then its fine. Granted if you back to back it you can tell its better with the MAF plugged in, but it works well enough without it.

last week when i put it all back together i installed this new/used MAF and new plugs, and started it and it was running like a bag of crap and sounded very strange, then i realised i hadn't plugged in any of the passenger banks spark plug leads :P

With those plugged in it ran much nicer, revved up nice and cleanly, but i was scratching my head trying to figure out why the maf values werent showing on nanocom. Eventaully i noticed the intake temp was showing as -61c and that made me realise i hadnt plugged the MAF or intake temp sensor in either.

Plugged those in and checked the readings and it was reading the book values at idle at 2500rpm.

I'm fairly happy its not the MAF, could well be the TPS but i wouldnt have thaught that would affect the running so much, youd expect that to be more related to idle control?

When the MAF went faulty the first time round last year, it ran fine with it unplugged and drove normally, wasnt like this at all.

It ran so well infact that i put it in for an MOT with it unplugged by mistake (which it then failed for high CO!)

You recon?

I've just tried it with the MAF unplugged and its exactly the same, so i think that hopefully tells us its not the MAF.

Gentle throttle input will lift the revs from idle upto around 1200rpm, at that point it starts surging, and any more input it starts really spluttering, almost sounds a bit like a rev limiter.

Well that lasted well.....

Taxed it today and decided to take it for a run to get pizza. It drove pretty nicely, everything working as it should, engine felt a bit peppier than previously even, collected pizza and headed home. Pulled into my street and all of a sudden it wouldnt rev. it idled perfecly happily, but any throttle input and it was coughing and spluttering. Switched LPG off and it was exactly the same on petrol. Tried revving in neutral and it was the same there too.

Grrr

My recent NGK plugs came in a plastic blister pack of four, rather than the usual cardboard box. I didnt even consider they could be fake... I should maybe pull one out and inspect the marks on the plugs themselves.

So the P38 likes to use coolant, and i think most of it is actually just leaking out than anything nefarious.

I've fixed a few engine bay leaks, but while working on it changing the plugs the other day, i notice a puddle of coolant on top of the LPG vaporiser... Theres no way coolant could have dripped onto there, it must've come from the vaporiser itself?!

Looking at the vaporiser, it appears to be in three pieces. i guess a coolant loop in the centre, then the two actual gas parts on either side. It seems to be leaking from the seam between them. It also has that sort of red crystally look you get when coolant has been leaking and evaporating away over time...

Anyone heard of this before? fixable? Or new vaporiser time?

It looks very similar to the Bigas RI-21 vaporiser that tinley tech sells.

when the hot engines shut off the coolant system is under pressure, and the cylinder isnt, so some water could leak up and into the cylinder.

That might explain rusty plug and the missfire on startup, and also the high compression test result on that cylinder...

Doesnt explain why theres no signs of compression getting into the coolant system though :/

is it just me, or does it look pitted and rusty round the bottom of the thread?

$165 for two stainless washers? Seems a bit excessive?

Cant we sort a list of parts here in the UK instead of shipping stuff half way around the world?

britcar states its obsolete and island-4x4 says not found, despite the listing appearing in google, suggesting it used to be there and now isnt...

Its also £150 which stings a bit!

104660 seems to have a short flexi section near the PAS box, whereas the older pipe is solid.

I cant find any change to either the steering box, or the PAS pump that coincides with the same chassis cutoff as that hose. The pump changed slightly earlier but the new pump supercedes the old one, so they should be interchangable.

The QEP104660 is also £50 cheaper if i order from island4x4, which means i can replace the other PAS line as well for less money than just buying the one hose. For some reason the return line is available for £35ish as a dunlop branded OEM part.

The HP PAS line from the pump to the box has a weep at the crimped joint, its also very rusty. Clearly i should be looking to replace it.

When looking on LRCat:

http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1234/93085/93086/7406/93109

It suggests ANR3855 for my early car.

However ANR3855 is dealer only and discontinued.

There are two other part numbers listed, for later chassis numbers, QEP104660 and QEP105440.

So i guess my question is, how similar are these later hoses, and will i be able to use one on my early car?

I imagine the box end is the same, the steering box didnt change AFAIK. I also wonder about the interim part... the 105440 part is for '99 onwards cars, which is presumably thor and potentially had potentially different PAS pump placement, but the 104660 part appears to be GEMS age and went from '97 to '98

Was there a GEMS steering pump change around there that means the 104660 hose wont fit my older pump?

well the clips and/or LPG filler are the only thing holding mine on at the moment :D