I've done the "back the nuts off a turn and drive round the block" trick before. Sometimes you dont even get out the driveway. I've had it where lowering the car off the jack onto the loosened wheel was enough and you get the satisfying "click" as it breaks free.

Probably not, but despite their reputation, most of the 23 year old electricals in the P38 do still work, where as the "Lucas" crank sensor i fitted a year ago died after barely 5 thousand miles...

Lemforder have been part of ZF since the 80's (and still are).

Its not like Lucas (and many others!) where someones bought out the brand and churn out shite with their name on it. Its a bonafide high quality OEM producing parts for many major car manufacturers.

for the third time, the car has popped a fault code for the front left height sensor, so i've gone to order a new one.

Seems that for early cars like mine, they sell a "Kit" which contains a new bracket, some wiring and bolts and things.

The kit is obviously handed, because the bracket is side specific, however what i'm wondering, is are the sensors used the normal 97-> sensors or are they specific to the conversion kit?

yeh its odd, i've bought numerous lemforder bits for my Audi and BMW, and they always come in a Lemforder box with all associated fasteners.

Whereas the various lemforder bits i've ordered for the Rangey (track rods and balljoints) have come unboxed with no nuts or anything.

mine was on 178k.

Boots were all split and the innards of the joints were rusty.

Given the absolute pig of a job they are to change, i would only be fitting lemforder or genuine. Lemforder manufactured the joints for landrover, so they're the only aftermarket manufacturer i'd trust.

Mine was all very rusty too, but the collets stayed put

I know its mostly a cosmetic issue, but i really would like to sort the head liner out. Its sagging in the rear load area, but more annoyingly the sunroof covering keeps falling on my head!
I've seen the kits from martrim, just wanting to make sure this is the right stuff:

http://www.martrim.co.uk/car-trimming-supplies/brush-nylon-headlining.php

I want the black fabric which isnt listed as a kit for the range rover, anyone care to suggests how much i need? I'll probably cover the A/B/C pillar trims as well if i can?

Finally got it swapped out on sunday. Not driven properly far in it, but had a few journeys and no recurrence of the issue thus far.

Old sensor looked totally fine, and the new one was identical right down to the markings on it, so despite the "OEM" claims of this new one, clearly it wasnt...

PDF drawings would be useful, always handy building a library of knowledge.

What you describe is exactly what mine does with the MAF unplugged. It'll start, then cutout, once maybe twice, then start with a bit of help from the throttle and eventually settle to a low idle and otherwise drive fine.

Have you got a fault code reader? These cars seem to never bring the EML on, so there could be faults lurking.

Sounds like he missunderstood the requirements.

As always with MOT's its finding somewhere decent that doesnt take the piss.

Clearly you want the guy to actually pick up stuff and not do a stevie wonder job, but at the same time, fails for stupid stuff "oh you've got a split wiper blade" is daft.

I think also, once they catch on that you fix stuff yourself, they can often change their tune a bit.

Yeh, the TPS is a bit more annoying as those seem to be dealer only for £100, maybe better of trying to find someone breaking a GEMS engine and getting a used one...

This forum really needs a "for sale" and "wanted" section!

thanks guys, ordered a bearmach sensor from LRDirect which claims to be OEM so will give that a go.

Oddly enough, this car seems to have a history with crank sensors. When i bought it, it was sold as a non runner, and the guy said the crank sensor was broken, and it would run for about 10-15mins then die. He said his garage had diagnosed the sensor had become contaminated with oil and the only way to fix it properly was to replace the rear main seal. Reading between the lines i figured he'd already changed the sensor, and it had broken again after a short period of time, and i figured it might have just been a crappy britpart sensor he used...

So the first thing i did was bought and fitted a new crank sensor. Sure enough when i removed the old one, i could see it was obviously not that old... It also wasnt that oily despite the leaking rear seal leading me to suspect his oil contamination theory was bunk too... However that didnt actually fix the problem, which instead turned out to be a faulty MAF.

So the sensor in there is only a year old, but was also a cheapy from ebay, so its entirely possible these cheap ass sensors are simply junk. Fingers crossed this bearmach one is better, or i'll have to stump up the £100 for a genuine one.

It idles perfectly normally and revs fine if you keep it below 1500rpm, the problem happens on both petrol and LPG, my gut feeling is i dont think its fuelling related.

I'm wondering if its a crank sensor issue? Or something ignitiony

I figure its better making a new thread about this, rather than adding to the other post, as i'm fairly sure its a new/seperate issue...

As per this thread:
https://rangerovers.pub/topic/853?page=2

The car had weird fuelling issues before its MOT. It failed the test with massively high CO, then after being parked for a few weeks, would barely run at all with massive missfiring and belching out black smoke. Plugs were all caked black with soot when i removed them. There was a fault code which pointed to the MAF, so i got one from ebay, fitted it along with some new plugs and it passed the MOT just fine with perfect CO readings.

Fast forward to last night. Its not been used since it passed the MOT as it wasnt taxed, but i taxed it yesterday and took it out for a run to get pizza. Drove perfectly well all the way there and all the way home. It wasnt hugely far, maybe 4 or 5miles but enough to get it fully warmed up etc. Even gave it a full throttle blast upto 60mph and it was all fine. Until i turned into my street, when all of a sudden it wouldnt rev. Idled fine as did very light throttle, so i trundled into the drive and parked up.

Some cursory checking last night showed it was exactly the same on both petrol and LPG, and missfired both under load and while revving in neutral, at the same point on the revs. It would rev upto about 1500rpm, any more and it starts acting up. I tried it with the MAF unplugged, exactly the same. MAF readings also looked sensible enough. Lambdas also looked sane. I reset adaptions and no change. Checked CTS and it read fine.

Left it overnight, went out this afternoon and fired it up from cold, problem gone. reset adaptions and put everything back together and took it out for another drive. Sure enough, after about 10minutes, same shit. Managed to drive it home with light throttle. I dont think its load related specifically, but obviously being an automatic the rpms naturally want to climb up past 1500rpm and thus it starts spluttering.

I made a short video, i thaught the audio would have been much more audiable but its not that great annoyingly. Hopefully if you crank the volume right up you can hear it. However you can see me blip the throttle a few times at the start and it revs cleanly, then slowly adding throttle up to 1500rpm and you hear it start its weirdness, then i really opened the throttle and it started popping and banging.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/vu2ivbphj76cv0c/2018-05-02%2015.46.32.mp4?dl=0

Well mine certainly seems to run fine without it normally. The first couple of starts are difficult until the ECU realises its not there, then its fine. Granted if you back to back it you can tell its better with the MAF plugged in, but it works well enough without it.

last week when i put it all back together i installed this new/used MAF and new plugs, and started it and it was running like a bag of crap and sounded very strange, then i realised i hadn't plugged in any of the passenger banks spark plug leads :P

With those plugged in it ran much nicer, revved up nice and cleanly, but i was scratching my head trying to figure out why the maf values werent showing on nanocom. Eventaully i noticed the intake temp was showing as -61c and that made me realise i hadnt plugged the MAF or intake temp sensor in either.

Plugged those in and checked the readings and it was reading the book values at idle at 2500rpm.

I'm fairly happy its not the MAF, could well be the TPS but i wouldnt have thaught that would affect the running so much, youd expect that to be more related to idle control?

When the MAF went faulty the first time round last year, it ran fine with it unplugged and drove normally, wasnt like this at all.

It ran so well infact that i put it in for an MOT with it unplugged by mistake (which it then failed for high CO!)

You recon?

I've just tried it with the MAF unplugged and its exactly the same, so i think that hopefully tells us its not the MAF.

Gentle throttle input will lift the revs from idle upto around 1200rpm, at that point it starts surging, and any more input it starts really spluttering, almost sounds a bit like a rev limiter.

Well that lasted well.....

Taxed it today and decided to take it for a run to get pizza. It drove pretty nicely, everything working as it should, engine felt a bit peppier than previously even, collected pizza and headed home. Pulled into my street and all of a sudden it wouldnt rev. it idled perfecly happily, but any throttle input and it was coughing and spluttering. Switched LPG off and it was exactly the same on petrol. Tried revving in neutral and it was the same there too.

Grrr