An hour on the bench PSU and sure enough CODE IN appeared.
Entered the code, and the powered it off and put it back in the car. CODE IN appeared immediately and now its working again :)
I'll need to have a think and decide wether i want to go down the aftermarket/attenuator route, or just leave it be. I might have a fiddle with my spare head unit and some resistors and see what we can achieve.
Sub makes sense :)
I stuck a meter across the pins, and it was just saying open circuit on all of the channels, so i imagine theres some sort of amplifier in between. If it was direct to a speaker driver, it should register a low resistance.
More digging required i guess. I have a spare Pioneer head unit with bluetooth i could fit. In the mean time, i think i'll whip the stock unit out and put it on the bench PSU for a few hours and see if that gets it unlocked!
maybe the continuous power up is whats required then.
I did two trips of 40-50minutes yesterday which i presumed would be enough, but clearly not!
Maybe i should just rip it out and fit a modern head unit, but having had a quick look behind it, the speaker connector isnt the usual 8pin one, its a wider 10 pin job. Need to find out whats going on there!
Folks, i'm a bit stumped with getting the P38 to accept my radio code.
The radios been showing code in for weeks since i had the battery off. Last week i tried to input the code, but I had misrememberd the code and entered it incorrectly. The radio then ended up stuck with the incorrect code on the screen. Tried everything and it wouldnt clear, so eventually read somewhere that removing fuse 1 and reinserting would clear the code. Did that and it changed to ----, which the internet suggests is wait mode. I faffed about a bit pressing buttons (the internet says press band and man together, which didnt seem to work, but eventually, it popped up CODEIN again. So i punched in what i thaught was the right code, and again, it was incorrect, and the wrong code was stuck on the screen again.
So i drove home got the right code, and yesterday morning i tried to reset it again. Pulled fuse 1, reinserted and now its back showing ----. Tried everything, no joy, just stuck on ----. Did 80odd miles yesterday in it, easily an hour and a half or more, with it sat showing ---- the whole time. Got in this morning, still showing ---- and still wont change back to CodeIn.
Any ideas? Driving it an hour to the mother in laws tomorrow and dont really fancy zero music the whole way!
Well after my radiator nonsense i finally managed to get it into a state where i was happy to really floor it and had a play this evening.
Full throttle in 2nd gear, it revved up to about 5k before getting the usual jolt. It was fairly mild this time and it continued pulling just fine after the jolt so i kept my foot in. Glanced over at the LPG guage and sure enough, red light (petrol) was on solid, and the gas light was flashing. It shifted into 3rd just fine and continued in the same manner. When i lifted off another slight jolt and the gas light went solid again.
So that would suggest as you've assumed that the gas injectors are running out of duty cycle.
As discussed, the gas nozzles i drilled out to 2.5mm, the original bigas units were 3mm i believe (3.0 stamped into the rail) I dont know wether these are the 2.5 or 3mm internal versions, how can i find out which they are to see if theres any scope to go larger before upping the reducer pressure?
Not got the computer on it yet to check the map settings.
I've used Jurid (on a BMW) and found them pretty good. I've got EBC yellowstuff on my A4 and dont rate them at all.
Ferodo Premier are decent too.
i've also at one point used the cheapest Apex pads in my A4 and they were also perfectly fine. But the cheap stuff can be hit or miss.
what had actually failed on the old one?
This is what i found when i removed my brand new leaking nissens rad:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/grvnywnm024kzm8/2017-12-13%2015.53.54.jpg?dl=0
I was trying to figure out how they worked as the rearmost pipe didnt seem to have anywhere to go. Then after doing the rad i'd disturbed the front most pipe and popped it out one of its clips. Tried to push it back in and the clip exploded leaving a plastic stump, which is presumable what happened to the other side at some point in the past!
They're only a couple quid so i'll just get some new ones ordered. I need a rear caliper too so i'll get that at the same time.
Did 80miles in it today and it all seems fine on the radiator front. Just need to reinstall the viscous fan and top cowling now :)
New new radiator in yesterday afternoon, filled up with coolant and gave it a short drive and it seems ok. Need to give it a longer run at the weekend to be 100% sure its all healthy, but its no longer pissing out coolant :) The level seemed to keep creeping down a small amount after it had been sitting, so it might need some extra topping up, its taken a good 9 Litres of coolant though, plus whatever was left in the block/pipes, so it cant be far away.
One thing i did notice that i'd like to fix, is the two PAS lines that run along the bottom of the radiator are sort of dangling loose as the plastic clips that support them have snapped. The lines themselves are quite rusty too, but i suspect those will be very expensive, so at the very least i'd like new plastic clips.
Oh its not the expansion tank, its the actual end tank on the new radiator thats cracked!!
Its obviously been a return or something. Box was all bashed up, and the radiator itself had been spraypainted black?!
Another new one arrived today, fingers crossed this time!
If you dont use it off road, then theres no point buying AT's IMO.
Mines on Goodyear Eagle F1's. A Rated wet grip. I wouldnt personally go any lower than B.
Well, fitted the new radiator today (from the above link).
And the fkn thing is leaking from a crack in the lower end tank.
The world is clearly out to get me!
what did it fail the MOT on?
I should add, i recently bought an A6 V8 for a project, with the same idea as you. use the engine, and break the rest to over the costs. Instead of just trailering it home, did exactly what i suggested above. Cost me a months tax, it was already MOT'd, and i insured it and cancelled the policy after 14days for minimal charge.
I then drove it 300miles home, which let me test out everything, and also highlighted an overheating issue which i now need to investigate before fitting the engine to the new car. And also showed up a gearbox issue which means i wont now end up selling the gearbox to someone and ending up with a case against me when they realise it doesnt work!
In my case the engines have a known issue with the water pump impeller cracking and falling off the shaft, so the first step is going to be to get the pump off and inspect it. If its busted i've found the issue and i'm happy. If its not broken i need to do more investigations.
my 2p.
People dont tend to spend a pile of money on a car and then just park it up and let it rot.
I would imagine, given the cooling system related replacement parts, that the engine does infact have a cooling issue. You might be lucky ofcourse, but that has to be given serious consideration if your buying it for the engine.
I know you said it was fine when idling etc, but it may be a dodgy headgasket and it only overheats when being driven, or it might be a block issue etc etc.
Given your plan, is it possible to get the new car MOT'd and run it for a month, or even a few weeks just to put the engine thru its paces in normal everyday use?
yeh i'm guessing, i didnt get near it this weekend, but i'm thinking it shuts off the two power feeds in the grey plug when the alternator isnt running.
So exactly like a split charge relay, to ensure the caravan doesnt drain the car battery when connected but not running.
yeh it does have the two caravan sockets
I guess i can try pulling the fuse and see if the power to the socket goes away.
I presume the voltage sensitive switch ensures it only powers the caravan when the alternator is charging?
Swapping the battery with a good spare one at the weekend and was looking at the proper mess of wiring going to the battery. The new battery (which is near brand new and came in a car i was breaking for parts) annoyingly had the terminals the other way round, so i had lots of fiddling to do. I still need to properly re-make the ground wire and tidy up the live.
Cleaned up some old crimps from a spotlight kit that had been cut off at some point. Was left with the power and ground for the LPG kit and a small harness with two fuses.
While there i found two relay modules clipped to the side of the inner wing. One looks like your typical automotive relay. the other is bright yellow and says LANDROVER Voltage Sensitive switch. Its connected to a small harness which goes to the battery + and has two fuses, a 20A and a 15A. The output from the relay disappears off into the foam behind the ABS pump.
Any idea what it could be? I might try to get a small fuse box and mount it on the side rather than the mess thats there just now. But that relay makes the whole area really untidy.
