The opposite caliper is pretty new (its still shiney silver) and must have been replaced by the previous owner shortly before i bought it. Clearly he should have done both, but has presumably done the bare minimum to get it working again. I would normally have replaced the pair, but since it was already done i just did the one.

When i got it i fully bled the system using the instructions online, as the pedal was in the floor and the accumulator was burst. This time (since it was only one rear caliper) i simply switched the ignition on, got an assistant to press the brake pedal, and opened the rear nipple for 5 seconds and that was it.

I'm sure i could go round the rest of the car, and give it new disks and pads etc etc, but its now working better than it ever has, the pads are all fine, and the disks are pretty new looking with minimal lip. And the money would be better spent fixing other bits like the front balljoints!

I was just intriqued why fixing one caliper has transformed the brakes to such an extent.

cool i will see what i find. I guess the gunge jams up the non-return valves, It might be worth trying to flush the line thru with the valves removed to get rid of all the debris?

I also wonder if the tank itself has a leak, as i've poured 5 litres into it then found it bring on the "low screenwash" warning having not really used it all that much!

Gave the rangey some TLC at the weekend, and one of the jobs was fixing the rear wiper as it was seized.

Luckily it all came apart, cleaned up and greased the shaft and reassembled and it now works perfectly. Treated it to a new blade while i was there.

However the rear wash doesnt work. Theres not a peep when i press the button, so i guess its a pump issue?

Is there a common fault, or do i just need to get in about it and do some testing to see if its the pump itself or something else?

Since i've had the rangey, i've always been unimpressed by the brakes. I asked on here about it and stripped and greased up all four calipers but it was still rubbish. They did ofcourse work, and if you stood on the pedal HARD it stopped on a dime, but the pedal effort always felt too high for the complexity of the braking system. I had assumed it was simply down to my experience with much newer cars, which tend to have a lot more powerful brakes than stuff from the 90's.

So fast forward a bit, my rear calipers been sticking on and off for a few months. It was winter and the weather is poop, so i've been ignoring it, and it "fixed itself" a few times and wasnt a huge issue. You could drive hundreds of miles and the disk would get hot, but not smoking or completely siezed on level. At the weekend i finally fitted a new caliper, bled up that corner and took it out for a test...

And the first thing i noticed was a MASSIVE reduction in pedal effort, the brakes actually felt good.

Given the rear brakes do so little i cant see how fixing that one caliper can have made a difference, so why has it changed so much?!

Not sure whats going on with the language switching.

older versions of android didnt handle multi-tasking very well, i think it only really got better around 6 or 7. Before then, the application was killed when tasks were switched and the app itself had to deal with the recovery.

You might find you can install a newer version of android via a route like Cyanogenmod, but realistically given the limited hardware i suspect you'll be struggling. 1GB of ram really isnt enough for modern android, never mind multitasking, and it sounds like it only has 8gb of storage, which like you say, gets almost immediately filled up by the time the OS has run all of its updates etc.

The only solution is a better spec tablet i imagine, ideally one with at least 2gb ram and 16gb of storage

Its just a modern car thing, and something that dates the P38 to the era its from.

Older cars from the era of the P38 tended to have large arch gaps and fairly small wheels. Its the same wether you look at an SUV or a family hatchback and everything in between.

As we tended towards larger alloys, the ratio of arch-gap to tyre starts to look a bit silly so cars are redesigned to suit. If you look at a modern range rover, the gap around the tyre to the arch is even, its the same at the top as it is at the sides:

To achieve that look on a P38, your basically running on the bump stops. Which is somewhat annoying, as the P38 looks good like that!

That said, mine at "normal" height i'm sure is more than a "clenched fist" which is why i want to make some blocks and do the calibration.

I fitted the same RR Sport wheels to mine. As you found, spigots and RRS wheel bolts are what are required.

I need to sort the rideheight though, it seems to sit far too high in "normal" mode.

Keep meaning to buy some nylon rod and making up some blocks to set the height properly on all four corners.

Oddly, these cars seem to have fairly limited suspension travel. It was sitting on the bump stops the other night after the self levelling went a bit stupid, and i realised that actually, there is waaay less travel than one would expect. Infact, sitting on the bumpstops gave it the sort of arch clearance you'd get at factory height on something like a modern RRS.

I find mine with no antenna requires the fob to be right beside the rear window for solid functionality. The range is so limited its very difficult to resync the key too, as the range from the door lock to the receiver is right on the limits.

I tend to just use the key and unlock manually.

The (new) battery door on my key is also a bit loose, and while in pocket will often rotate a bit. Not enough to pop open, but presumably enough to move the contacts inside and disconnect the battery. I really should get a second key for it, but it seems thats near impossible on these cars.

I'd also like a third gen receiver so i could reconnect the antenna and alleviate the range issue, but i'm not paying dealer money for one, and the lack of external identifiers means its not easy to buy a used one.

As i understand it, the grind on the cam lobes is such that the follower is supposed to rotate in the bore. basically its not perfectly flat, its ground at a slight angle. The follower is also specially ground to work with that angle and rotate.

When one or other is worn, and they cant rotate correctly, accellerated wear tends to occur.

I now realise that your not suggesting fitting new lifters, but some slightly less knackered ones for a short time, and in that situation, i'd say sure, go right ahead.

yeh, but if you fit new followers to the worn cam, then fit a new cam to the new followers a few months later, you'll likely just result in writing it all off, as the old cam will chew up the new followers, then the new chewed up followers will ruin the new cam...

Either do the cam now along with the followers, or leave it all alone, IMO

Surely the issue is the two parts wear together... If you fit new followers to an old used cam, the worn cam will ruin the new followers in short order?

This is the usual problem with engines, once you crack it open its a slippery slope down the rabbit warren of doom.

Mine also had a fairly small looking battery, however when i checked the online lookup it matched what it was supposed to have (an "069", rated ~70AH iirc)

It wasnt that old, but had been flattened a few times and sounded weak when cranking, so i had a much larger "110" battery rated 80ah which was nearly new from a car i was breaking. It only just squeezes into the tray. Still sounds weak when cranking, must just be how it is.

I also agree, 115c is "ok". Not ideal, but not OTT hot. On a fully sealed system, 115c probably wouldnt even have popped the expansion cap valve. I've had my Audi round there before when the water pump failed and it was unperturbed by it.

I was driving mine for weeks with a leaking radiator (which ofcourse then started leaking more), and due to the extra-leak one morning the wife drove it to work and had the temp guage round into the red with the warning light on. It took about 4 litres of coolant to fill it back up again, but engine seems otherwise fine.

i changed the oil when i got the car on the road, its been regularly topped up since as it seems to leak/burn a fair amount, it just looks black, smells a bit fuelly and looks like it wants changed again, so i'll get onto that at some point. No signs of coolant in the oil though.

Well plot thickens, maybe...

Weather has been awful, so i havent managed to actually properly measure anything up. Everythings shut anyway so no point getting soaked when i cant order any bits anyway.

Yesterday morning, the coolant was low, and the rocker cover looked slightly damp, i only had about half a litre left of coolant. I put that in, which took it about half way up the reservoir. At a guess it probably needed another half litre to get it upto the cold fill line. Then tightened the jubilee clips. They all felt pretty loose, and all nipped up nicely. Since then, no more steam, and the rocker cover is dry. Its still seems to be losing coolant though.

Yesterday i drove about 95miles all in, two ~40mile trips, two ~10mile trips and some running around local.

This morning, the coolant was barely visible at the bottom of the reservoir, just a small amount visible just at the pipe connection. I didnt want to fill it with water, so drove to asda (which was open on new years day amazingly enough) and bought a 1L "top up" and poured that in, which took it up to the cold fill line.

So from that i deduce that my 95miles yesterday has consumed about half a litre of coolant.

So wheres it going...

The weathers been pretty crap, lots of rain, but i've been really struggling to keep the windows demisted in the cabin. It was needing fan speed 5 and 24-25c to keep the front windows clear, and the rear glass stayed kinda steamy thru most of that 95miles of driving. So ofcourse that leads to the worry that its leaking internally, perhaps in the heater matrix. Oddly no particularly coolanty smell inside the car.

yeh you could well be right, something to investigate. Hopefully i'll get a few minutes tomorrow to have a nose around.

Thinking outside the box... The original throttle heater uses a seperate fitting on the manifold, which went to the throttle then back to the expansion tank. Thats now blanked off on my engine. I wonder if i could use that instead of T-ing the heater hoses at all?

Or maybe use that as the feed, and return to the heater return as normal.

Need to have a look at the bay.

yeh i dont think i want to do it in series given the tiny size of the connections on the vaporiser. I planned to measure today but its snowing so it can wait.

i think the vapouriser is smaller, maybe 12mm? i'll need to measure i think!

I was looking on LPG shop, they have a 19-10-19 and a 19-16-19 but nothing in between :(

http://www.bigas.it/en/products/lpg-reducer/ri-21-double

That suggests 10mm, but i'm not sure thats exactly the same as mine, but maybe the 19-10-19 will be fine after all!

So since fixing the radiator, a few times when i've done a short journey i've noticed steam coming from under the bonnet when i stopped. Initially i just marked it down to it being frosty, and the engine melting frost/condesnation away. Its used a small amount of coolant since fixing the rad, but i wasnt entirely sure if the topping up was simply down to small airbubbles or whatever working their way out.. However this afternoon i went to the nursery to pick up the wee man (about a mile away) and when i reversed into the bay noticed steam coming out the sides of the wheel arches and grille, and when i stopped it was whisping out the sides of the bonnet. Clearly not condesation!!

So i popped the hood, and had a look. Offside rocker cover was wet with a puddle of coolant and there was steam pouring off the exhaust manifold. No obvious leak, but the T pieces for the LPG system are directly above where the coolant seemed to be, and the T Pieces looked damp. I fired it back up, and no visible leak. Drove it to the dump, sat in a queue for 10 minutes waiting to get in, parked, drove to Greggs then home, and no more steam appeared.

So i'm presuming the T pieces are the source. They're configured somewhat peculiarly and i'd like to check before i order some new bits.

So whats there just now, is two plastic equal Tees in the heater hoses, right beside the brake modulator. They've then used some VERY stiff hose, to go from those equal tees, round the back of the engine and across towards the LPG vaporiser. About 10-12" before the vaporiser, there is a straight reducer in each pipe, and it drops down to a smaller size which goes to the fittings on the vaporiser. This smaller hose is still too large, and has been crushed a bit where it attaches to the vaporiser. I'm thinking, at a guess, the very stiff hose isnt sealing properly until it warms up and softens a bit.

What i would like to do, is buy two new metal T pieces, which go from whatever size the factory heater hoses are, down to the correct size hose that fits the vapouriser. Then run two new lengths of hose to the vaporiser.

Before i do this, i want to confirm the current odd layout hasnt been done for some reason i've not considered. I'm assuming its just been lashed up by the same moron that installed the rest of the system.

I'd also like to confirm what size the factory hose is? and also if anyone might know where i can find what size pipe my Bigas vapouriser actually needs (short of taking the pipes off and measuring)

Cheers
Kev