Mines always above max every morning. Start the car and the pump fires up and the level drops down.
Mines always above max every morning. Start the car and the pump fires up and the level drops down.
So i twisted at the door lock and prodded the remote buttons and eventually managed to get the remote paired up. Range is hopeless, so i pulled the trim cover off for a look.
Its an original spec receiver and the antenna was unplugged.
I guess i need to keep my eyes out for a newer one, and in the mean time leave the antenna unplugged to minimise the false wakeups/battery drains...
I only ran it empty once. Most of the other fills were opportunist fills, as it was convenient or i was stopped anyway etc.
Most of the fills were in the 50-60L range, but ofcourse i didnt know the actual tank level before filling. I got 95L once, which was the only time the gas actually ran out. But then drove something like 190miles and filled it again and only got 45L, so at a guess the first fill brimmed the tank but the second fill stopped properly. The fill after that though did 90L for similar mileage.
At the front end its a Bigas dual reducer and SGIS ECU.
So i managed to empty the crap out the boot today and have a look at the tank.
It appears to be an ICOM brand, single hole filled toroid, with a plated capacity of 95L.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/zw60bnqarqd31gs/2017-07-08%2015.43.37.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/c9ayq4fsduuapl2/2017-07-08%2015.44.04.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/tvhobwpodt1bupk/2017-07-08%2015.44.54.jpg?dl=0
When mine had no gas the HEVAC had a fault code saying the compressor was open circuit (because the pressure switch is in series with the clutch)
However i think later cars maybe run the compressor clutch thru a relay, so the HEVAC unit doesnt "see" that its open?
yeh i might have to replace all the lines at some point. The previous owner had apparently replaced the fuel pump, so one would hope that if the pipes were rusted above the tank he'd have replaced them, but given hes bodged it with LPG hose of the wrong size i dont have much faith in his skills.
Whats annoying is that the lines are steel at all... My 1990 Vauxhall Nova that i owned back when i started driving had nylon fuel lines. You'd have hoped a luxury car thats 4 years newer would have also used something better than steel, but then it is a landrover, where nothing sensible gets done!
My A4 uses plastic coated aluminium pipes for both fuel and brake lines. 17 years old and its all original with no signs of corrosion anywhere.
well i had a thaught last night, and had a look thru the history that came with the car, Sure enough i found a printout from landrover with the lockset code and EKA stapled to the front of the service book.
Its dated 2000, so i'll still need to check and compare VIN's to see if its correct for the car, but its a good start! I also found a printout from 2016 from this website: http://www.reset.rover-tech.info/rangerover_keyfob.htm, with the same EKA written on the top of it. So that sorta implies the previous owner used it to get the car working before he put it up for sale...
I can have a look for the RF module as well see whats going on there.
Martyuk wrote:
glad it's started and running again though...
Any pointers on what i should do now?
I can check the door lock switches with nanocom, and will do that at the weekend.
I guess i can check the VIN in the BECM is original and if so i can call the landrover dealer for the EKA?
When i look at the security info for the engine ECU, everything shows up as zeros and i seem to recall seeing something that said the immobiliser was disabled, but not sure if thats related.
I guess being unfamiliar i'm not really sure if it clunked or not.
From what i remember, the pump stopped fairly abruptly rather than slowing to a trickle. That said, two of us were filling it at various points and it was rather puzzling with the random fill levels that maybe we didnt notice. Or maybe sometimes it did stop properly and other times it didnt.
I guess i'll need to pay closer attention next time i fill it, but its currently about 3/4 full and it'll probably take me a few weeks to do another 150miles or so in it before it needs more gas.
Forgot about finding the plate tonight, i'll try and look tomorrow after work.
Despite being installed by a "pro" theres various stuff about the install that seems pretty shit. The injectors were mounted hanging out over the exhaust manifolds, rather than tucking them in above the rocker covers near the plenum. Various wiring is pretty sketchy looking. The fillers mounted in the plastic bumper with what seems like nothing in the way of reinforcement. There was also no filters anywhere in the installation. I added a vapour filter between the vapouriser and the injectors when i sorted the engine end out.
But its also not worth ploughing huge amounts of cash into trying to fix... I need steering that works and non-shonky brake pipes first!
I'll have another look at the tank and see if i can see any info on it. Will also have a look and see if its a 4 hole or single hole.
Wife had "tidied" june and july issues away!
yeh, but i still dont remember it. I'm guessing i've missed an issue. Need to go searching!
hmm i've got a PPC sub but dont recall a P38, which either means they've arrived and i've not read them because the wifes moved them, or my brain is a sieve...
Interesting!
I didnt really notice any clunking, the pump just seemed to stop, so perhaps there is some sort of issue with the tank?
Whats the purpose of stopping short?
Well i figured i should put together a short summary of the trip.
We drove 1200miles over the weekend, from Glenrothes to Fareham, visiting goodwood for 3 days then back home again. It made it, without needing a flatbed truck, which i was quite pleased about.
No cruise control was annoying, as the ECU didnt turn up in time. The AC worked surprisingly, despite the leak, and was a godsend on the return leg where it was really quite warm!
The trip did throw up a few issues, with the BECM going in a huff in the Harry Potter tour car park and immobilising the car for a period. That magically fixed itself, but then it sprang a fuel leak on the way to the hotel.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/cqamhk5ji5hhd8p/2017-07-02%2023.09.19.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/a786gl72ax9jk2m/2017-07-04%2010.52.11.jpg?dl=0
That hose on the return line is 10mm LPG hose that some arsehole has used to join the tank to the return line. Its all perished and has split around where the jubilee had crushed it down to 8mm. 30minute walk to a nearby pirtek (via euro car parts, who didnt have any fuel hose...) for a length of hose and a repair in the hotel carpark on monday morning and we were off again, albeit a couple of hours late!
A few more minor issues came to light as well, some mentioned above. I replaced the rear track rod before we went as one of the boots was split and the balljoint was rusted up. While the front one felt fine, we discovered once we hit some minor back roads that it was a nightmare to keep it in a streight line, with the steering pulling wildly around the place on camber changes, and discovered the balljoint on the front bar now also had play. At least one of the axle end balljoints is also creaking when turning it, so i guess its dry as well? Those look like a pig to change! I'll replace the front panhard rod bushes as well.
The brake pipes on the rear axle are a total bodgefest and were clattering off the axle tube over slow bumps in traffic as they're completely unsupported over their length. Temporarily fixed that with ducktape but the pipes need properly recreated and the appropriate mounting tabs need fitted. It appears to be a later style axle case, that someones bodged the early style pipes onto, and ofcourse that means theres no locating tabs etc.
The car also managed to use about 4L of oil over the course of 1200miles. When we arrived at the hotel (500miles) there was barely a drop on the dipstick, and it took 2L to fill it back up again. I kept a closer eye on it after that and topped it up regularly.
The exhaust, despite sounding epic around town and while being a bit chavvy revving it in tunnels, has an awful drone around 2250rpm. Its not usually an issue, as motorway driving is up closer to 2800rpm where its quite civilised, but once you get in some traffic and are doing 50-60ish it was really quite annoying. I often found myself forcing it into third gear to keep the revs up. So i'll need to get a small silencer added to replace the middle box (though realistically i knew that anyway)
The transmission was otherwise fine, despite me fearing the worst due to its oil leak and horrible noise it was making before we left, and after repositioning the sump gasket appeared to retain its oil without issue.
Theres probably more stuff, but i cant think of it just now!
So, first long trip completed and i noticed some real oddness with the LPG filling
The first few times i filled it when the red light came on, but realised it was only taking 45-50L of gas and that the level guage isnt particularly accurate. Pushing it a bit further i got into the 60litre range without issue.
I remembered from the installation certificate that it stated 95L Toroidal tank, and so i expected closer to 70-75L. Imagining 15mpg i guessed 240miles or so should be possible, but thus far i'd stopped way short of that each time due to convenient filling locations.
Once we got down to fareham, I filled the tank, and did about 140miles of driving back and forwards from the hotel and goodwood, lots of heavy traffic etc, and then set off up the motorway and it finally ran out and the gas switched off with 180miles on the dash. Stopped and filled up, and it took 95L?!
I then drove ~200miles up the motorway, and decided it must be needing a fill, but this time it only took 42L?! It worked out an MPG of over 22 so clearly nonsense, i presume it simply didnt fill the tank properly?
Another 200miles up the motorway, stopped again, and this time it took 90L?!
WTF is going on?! For starters a 95L tank should never be taking 90-95L of gas? and why the short fill of 45L?
If I could get the remote working that would help I think. It's a 1994 car so no key coil thing.
When I got it the remote didn't work. I replaced the battery door and tweaked the contacts and now the red lights come on with buttons, but no response to anything from the car.
What's required to unlock the becm and read the eka if I can't get it from the dealer?
I don't have the eka
Tried to get it out of the bcm after it started working and it just displayed ----
Well immediate panic over. It magically fixed itself.
Took battery off. Reconnected and lock and unlocked the door a couple of times and the locking fired and the car started.
It's now developed a fuel leak to compensate
