I just dont trust the electronics well enough. If something goes wrong with it superlocked, its break-a-window time and i dont want to end up in that situation. At least if its only locked, i can mechanically open it with the key etc. Its more likely to lock me out and cause me headaches, than it is to prevent someone breaking in.
Its good to know it wont superlock with one press though. i guess that means i can use the remote in the mean time.
Thanks those pics are pretty good. No idea how they create the images for the likes of haynes, maybe they lift the car with a crane :P
As for why, mostly curiosity, helps for plotting vapour builds in my head :P
And yes, i could go crawl underneath, but that requires effort when a random "i wonder if part X is in the way of part Y" thought pops into my head.
For instance earlier i wondered if you'd get away with a normal RWD transmission (from say a Jag XJ8) powering the rear axle. Afterall XJ8's are super cheap, have a lovely AJV8 and make decent power. Now i can see the fuel tank is very much in the way.
Anyone happen to have an underbody shot of the P38?
Something like this (i realise its a model):
https://www.megamo.hk/assets/images/LR/org/d90org_006.jpg
I know the old haynes manuals used to include it, but i dont have one for the P38. Had a good google search but cant find anything!
well they all suffer that fate with the old receiver, it just depends if the right RF signals are present. Often various household stuff uses the 433mhz frequency. For instance i have a wireless thermostat for the heating that uses it.
When i parked it directly in front of the house, it certainly drained the battery within a couple days, enough that i went and bought a solar panel to keep the battery topped up. However parking to the side of the house for several weeks without the solar panel attached seems to have no drain issues. But clearly refitting the antenna i'm sure will make it much worse
I'm still slightly wary about using the remote, because i dont want it superlocking itself and leaving me stranded. I've not quite managed to figure out what makes it superlock, so for now i've been locking with the key and unlocking with the remote. I will at some point disconnect the superlocking wires within the locks to ensure it cant do that!
Thats what i thought initially, but reading between the lines he seems to be suggesting that the "external" tanks should have their valve (or the whole tank?) physically outside the vehicle, as he's talking about cutting a hole in the wheel well and avoiding ARB's...
My tank has its valve on the outside surface of the tank, but still inside the car.
What's the difference between internal and external?
Mines always above max every morning. Start the car and the pump fires up and the level drops down.
Mines always above max every morning. Start the car and the pump fires up and the level drops down.
So i twisted at the door lock and prodded the remote buttons and eventually managed to get the remote paired up. Range is hopeless, so i pulled the trim cover off for a look.
Its an original spec receiver and the antenna was unplugged.
I guess i need to keep my eyes out for a newer one, and in the mean time leave the antenna unplugged to minimise the false wakeups/battery drains...
I only ran it empty once. Most of the other fills were opportunist fills, as it was convenient or i was stopped anyway etc.
Most of the fills were in the 50-60L range, but ofcourse i didnt know the actual tank level before filling. I got 95L once, which was the only time the gas actually ran out. But then drove something like 190miles and filled it again and only got 45L, so at a guess the first fill brimmed the tank but the second fill stopped properly. The fill after that though did 90L for similar mileage.
At the front end its a Bigas dual reducer and SGIS ECU.
So i managed to empty the crap out the boot today and have a look at the tank.
It appears to be an ICOM brand, single hole filled toroid, with a plated capacity of 95L.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/zw60bnqarqd31gs/2017-07-08%2015.43.37.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/c9ayq4fsduuapl2/2017-07-08%2015.44.04.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/tvhobwpodt1bupk/2017-07-08%2015.44.54.jpg?dl=0
When mine had no gas the HEVAC had a fault code saying the compressor was open circuit (because the pressure switch is in series with the clutch)
However i think later cars maybe run the compressor clutch thru a relay, so the HEVAC unit doesnt "see" that its open?
yeh i might have to replace all the lines at some point. The previous owner had apparently replaced the fuel pump, so one would hope that if the pipes were rusted above the tank he'd have replaced them, but given hes bodged it with LPG hose of the wrong size i dont have much faith in his skills.
Whats annoying is that the lines are steel at all... My 1990 Vauxhall Nova that i owned back when i started driving had nylon fuel lines. You'd have hoped a luxury car thats 4 years newer would have also used something better than steel, but then it is a landrover, where nothing sensible gets done!
My A4 uses plastic coated aluminium pipes for both fuel and brake lines. 17 years old and its all original with no signs of corrosion anywhere.
well i had a thaught last night, and had a look thru the history that came with the car, Sure enough i found a printout from landrover with the lockset code and EKA stapled to the front of the service book.
Its dated 2000, so i'll still need to check and compare VIN's to see if its correct for the car, but its a good start! I also found a printout from 2016 from this website: http://www.reset.rover-tech.info/rangerover_keyfob.htm, with the same EKA written on the top of it. So that sorta implies the previous owner used it to get the car working before he put it up for sale...
I can have a look for the RF module as well see whats going on there.
Martyuk wrote:
glad it's started and running again though...
Any pointers on what i should do now?
I can check the door lock switches with nanocom, and will do that at the weekend.
I guess i can check the VIN in the BECM is original and if so i can call the landrover dealer for the EKA?
When i look at the security info for the engine ECU, everything shows up as zeros and i seem to recall seeing something that said the immobiliser was disabled, but not sure if thats related.
I guess being unfamiliar i'm not really sure if it clunked or not.
From what i remember, the pump stopped fairly abruptly rather than slowing to a trickle. That said, two of us were filling it at various points and it was rather puzzling with the random fill levels that maybe we didnt notice. Or maybe sometimes it did stop properly and other times it didnt.
I guess i'll need to pay closer attention next time i fill it, but its currently about 3/4 full and it'll probably take me a few weeks to do another 150miles or so in it before it needs more gas.
Forgot about finding the plate tonight, i'll try and look tomorrow after work.
Despite being installed by a "pro" theres various stuff about the install that seems pretty shit. The injectors were mounted hanging out over the exhaust manifolds, rather than tucking them in above the rocker covers near the plenum. Various wiring is pretty sketchy looking. The fillers mounted in the plastic bumper with what seems like nothing in the way of reinforcement. There was also no filters anywhere in the installation. I added a vapour filter between the vapouriser and the injectors when i sorted the engine end out.
But its also not worth ploughing huge amounts of cash into trying to fix... I need steering that works and non-shonky brake pipes first!
I'll have another look at the tank and see if i can see any info on it. Will also have a look and see if its a 4 hole or single hole.
Wife had "tidied" june and july issues away!
yeh, but i still dont remember it. I'm guessing i've missed an issue. Need to go searching!
hmm i've got a PPC sub but dont recall a P38, which either means they've arrived and i've not read them because the wifes moved them, or my brain is a sieve...
